%0 



A* 



r ^ j 



•c - 1 




JOURNAL 

OF A 

RESIDENCE IN CHINA, 

AND THE 

NEIGHBORING COUNTRIES; 

WITH 

M zllralnuvv 12 g sag, 

ON THE 

COMMENCEMENT A.ND PROGRESS OF MISSIONS IN THE WORLD, 

MY DAVID ABEEL, 

Missionary to* dhina, 



SECOND EDITION 



NEW YORK: 
PUBLISHED BY J. ABEEL WILLIAMSON, 
Corner of Vesey and Washington Streets. 

1836,' 



DSP 



Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1834. by 
Le'avitt. Lord & Co., in the Clerk's office of the District Court of the 
Southern District of New York, 



Wm. Storer J uk. Print* 
New Haven, Ct. 



At a meeting of the Board of Foreign Missions of the Re 
formed Dutch Church, held September 13th, 1834, the following 
resolution was adopted. 

The Rev. David Abeel having stated that he had in hand a 
manuscriptj consisting of a journal, observations upon the state 
of society in the East, wants of the heathen, &Cr, 

Resolved^ That this Board forthwith take measures for the 
publication of said manuscript, under the immediate inspection 
and agency of Mr. Abeel. 

The Board of Foreign Missions of the Reformed Dutch 
Church was organized in 1832, to act in connection and concert 
with the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Mis- 
sions. Its funds are paid over to the General Board, to be di 
rected to such objects as may be specified, 



1 



CONTENTS. 



Abstract of missionary operations in the world, * . Page 5 

Chap. I.— Departure from New York—Divine service on board— Isl- 
and of St. Paul— Amsterdam— Sandal-wood island— Ombay passage 
--Islands of Flores, Solor, Lomblem, Ombay,Timor, Cambing, Baby 
—Early Catholic missions on these islands— Portuguese Xavier— 
Dutch conquests— Missions — Zeal of early missionaries— Declen- 
sion of eighteenth century— Present mission of Dutch on Timor, 
Rotti Letty, Moa, Kesser, and Roma— Banda sea and island— Ar- 
roo group, Booro — Amboyna, Mr. Kam— Manippa— Ternati— Ef- 
forts of Netherlands' Missionary Society— New Guinea, Waijoo— 
Plan for the conversion of these islands— Pelew islands and na- 
tives.. . . . ......... 31 

Chap. II. — Chinese fishing boats— Formosa— Ladrone islands — Chi- 
nese pilots— Lintin— Opium trade— Macao— Description and histo- 
ry of city — Catholicism— Superstitions — Passage in small Chinese 
boat to Whampoa — 'Foreign shipping — Objects on the wa} r — Night 
scene— Arrival at Canton— Dr. Morrison, . . . . 59 

Chap. III.— Description of Canton and its vicinity — Religions of Chi- 
na—Appearance of women— Beggars — Foreign factories— Open 
space before them— Appearance of river— Crowds of boats — Island 
of If ainarn— Chinese temple— Chinese merchants— Mode of speak- 
ing English— Men and women, . . . ... 75 

Chap. IV. — Worship in English — Ah-see — Monthly concert — Preach- 
ing at Whampoa— Whampoa island— French do., Danes do., Pro- 



2 



CONTENTS?. 



cessions, burial, hymen ial and religious — Leang Afa— Drama- Wa~ 
tune'? day — Macao — Procession — Return to Canton — Houses of 
Hong merchants — Illuminated boats — Ceremonies in the city ballad 
singing — Crowds of natives — Decorations of streets — god of 
fire, ...... .... 105 

Chap. V. — Female infanticide — Condition of women — Cruelty of pun- 
ishments— Number and condition of prisoners. . . . 133 

Chap. VI. — Missionary labors at Canton and Whampoa — Appeal in 
behalf of Cjiina — What ought to be done. .... 139 

Chap VII. — Passage to Java — Mode of dealing with sailors — Ameri- 
can sailors — Impropriety of sending boys to sea — No cbjeci gained 
— Cochin-China — Sumatra. ....... 151 

Chap. VIII. — Angier — Journey to Batavia — Traveling — Wiidness of 
country — Large estate — Batavia — Mr. Medhurst — Java as a mis- 
sionary field — Population — Language — Chief to urns — The mission- 
ary's daily labors — Chinese— Hospital — Market-places— Prison- 
Chinese new year — Popular deities — Infanticide in China— Visit to 
a bazaar in the country to distribute tracts — Interview wirh Cochin- 
Chinese — Catholicism in Cochin China — Tour to anoiher market- 
place — Protestant Portuguese settlement — Service in Dutch church 
-Chinese sacrifice at the graves of their relatives — Chinese ceremo- 
ny of passing through fire — Mission schools — Malayan do.— Visit 
to Bitenzorg. the residence of the governor, and labors there— Re- 
marks on Java, . . . 159 

Chap. IX. — Passage to Singapore— -Sumatra, different states — Cus- 
toms — Religion — Singapore — Missionaries — Passage to Siam in 
company with Mr. Tomlin — Arab ship — Conduct of Mohammedan 
sailors — Coast of Malayan peninsula — Passage up the Meinam — 
Appearance of Siamese — Bankok — Disappointment in not meeting 
GutzlarT— Portuguese consul — R. Hunter, Esq., . . 195 

Chap. X. — Description of Siam — City of Bankok — Variety of inhab- 
itants — Enslaved condition of multitudes, their misery and vico — 



CONTENTS, 



3: 



Religion of Budha — Priests—Religion of Chinese, Burmese, Pen- 
guins, Malays, Portuguese — First Protestant missionaries — Visit to 
Pra Klang — Missionary houses — Medical depository — Native sim- 
plicity — Visit of princes— Interesting interview with priest — Other 
priests — Cambodjian prince — Cambodjia as missionary ground — 
Sacred month — Illuminations — King's visit to the temples — Splen- 
did procession of barges— Overflow of the Meinam— Affecting case 
of Chinese youth — Sabbath worshipers — Heathen's cruelty — Some 
fruits of labor — Funeral array — Splendid temples and idols— Close 
of first visit to Siam — Caution to readers of missionary journals, 21 1 

Chap, XL— Passage to Singapore— Mr. Thomsen— -Description of 
Singapore— Importance as mission station— Printing— Schools- 
Visit along coast — Passage to Malacca— Town of Malacca — An- 
glo-Chinese college — Missionaries— Schools— President — Return 
to Singapore— Embarkation for Siam— China junk— Straitened 
apartments — Dull passage — Sailors— Idolatry — Efforts to restrain, 
them — Tringano— Squall — Loss of Chinese vessels — Degraded in- 
habitants of Malayan peninsula — Arrival — Ignorance of heathen — 
Custom-house officers, . 257, 

Chap. XII— General view of second visit to Siam — Supplying Chi- 
nese junks with books— Missionary labors — Little congregation — 
Medical practice — Condition of some patients — Conduct of servants 
— Convert of Gutzlaff— Sacred season— Prince Chaw Fah — Ar= 
rangement with Prince — Swimming child — Malayan captives — 
Mode of preserving dead— Superstition in regard to evil spirits, &c., 
— Interesting priest— Most common language of Siam — Chinese 
languages — Mode of studying — Last Sabbath service — Appointment 
of expounder — Juthia — Chantibun— Note containing baptism of 
some since, 283 

IOhap. XIII — Passage to Singapore — Visit to Rhio — Description of 
Rhio— Death and character of Rev. R. Burn — Labors at Singapore 
—Illness — Embarkation for England — Changes at Singapore — 

I Note, . . . . . . . 311; 



CONTENTS. 



Chap. XIV. — Borneo— -Foreign, settlers— Aborigines called Dyaks-— 
Degradation and cruelty — Passion for human heads — No celebra- 
tion without them—Ideas of religion — Brutal condition of northern 
tribes — Borneo as missionary ground — Dutch station, . 3*21 

Chap. XV. — Celebes — Languages — Religion — Mandhaar — Mode of 
life — Mamoojoo — Rajahs— Pirates— Missionary station under Neth- 
erlands society — Island of Sooloo— Mindano — Palawan, 331 

Chap. XVI.— Philippine islands— Spanish possessions — Extent— Value 
— Inhabitants — Influence of Catholic priests — Superstitions, 339 

Chap. XVII. — Loo Choo islands — Number— Size— Scenery — Inter- 1 
esting inhabitants — Laws — Language — Religion — GutzlalPs visit — 
Importance of having missionary ships, . . . 34? 

Chap. XVIII. — Japan — Description— Towns — Laws — Language- 
Religions — Labors of Jesuits. . . . 355 

I 

Chap. XIX. — St. Helena— Conclusion — Talent entrusted to Chris-' 
tians — United and more vigorous efforts necessary — Address tof 
ministers on behalf of missions — Zeal of Jesuits — Students of The-; 
ology — Importance of oolonies — Address to physicians — Pious mer- 
chants — Ladies — Wealth — All classes — Necessity of co-operation 
|a those at home — Mothers — Teachers, . . . 3651 



1 1 



AN ABSTRACT 

OF * " 

MISSIONARY OPERATIONS IN THE WORLD- 



Various opinions have been advanced respecting 
the exact population of the world. From recent in- 
vestigations in China, and other eastern countries 
which may be regarded the principal scenes of human 
life, there is every reason to conclude that nine hundred 
or a thousand millions of souls is the most correct es- 
timate. 

Of this number two hundred and twenty millions 
inhabit Europe. About one hundred and twenty mill- 
ions make up the various kingdoms and tribes of Af- 
rica. Forty millions is the probable census of North 
and South America, — while the immense residue, 
amounting to six hundred millions or more, inhabit 
the vast empires, and kingdoms, and islands of Asia, 

Of the inhabitants of the world, about six: hundred 
millions are Pagans ; one hundred and fifty millions 
are Mohammedans ; three millions are Jews, and two 
hundred millions are nominal Christians, 

When we analyze the proportion of nominal Chris- 
tians, we discover that one hundred and twenty mill- 



ftiiSSIONARY ABSTRACT. 



ions are Reman Catholics ; forty-two millions belong 
to the Greek church, and an overwhelming majority 
of the remainder are embraced in the following classes ; 
— they are either avowed disbelievers in Christianity, 
or professors of erroneous doctrines ; or adherents of 
mere external forms : or if their theoretical sentiments 
be correct, they are perfectly indifferent to the doc- 
trines, and disobedient to the precepts of i ^ealed re- 
ligion. 

The number of intelligent and exemplary Chris- 
tians is so extremely limited, that " charity'' which 
"hppeth all things/'* cannot but weep while she care- 
fully counts up the few to whom she can lay claim, 
We do not pretend to specify the number ; but their 
God has declared that " the kingdom and dominoBj 
and the greatness of the kingdom under the whole 
heaven shall be given to the people of the saints of the 
Most High." It is a subject of unutterable gratitude 
to every devoted Christian, that this prediction is, at 
present, in the progress of its accomplishment. With- 
in the last half century 3 the churches "holding the 
mystery of the faith in a pure conscience,* 7 have begun 
to feel their obligations to the world, and commenced 
preaching the gospel to its perishing inhabitants, Be- 
fore this period a few feeble efforts were put forth at 
different times and by different churches ; but only 
one denomination, — the Moravians, — manifested a 
becoming interest in the duty. Two or three socie- 
ties were organized in England and Scotland before 
the commencement of the last century.- These were 
" The Society for propagating the gospel in foreign, 
parts."—" The Society for promoting Christian know- 



MISSIONARY ABSTRACT. 



ledgey'— and "The Society in Scotland for promo- 
ting Christian knowledge," It was not until 1732 that 
the missionary spirit appeared embodied in any entire 
denomination. At that period the United Brethren, or 
Moravians, organized their church into a missionary 
body, and nobly resolved to attempt the instrumental 
work of evangelizing the world. In 1792 the Eng- 
lish Baptist Missionary Society was formed, and in 
the following year the celebrated Br, Carey com- 
menced his useful labors in India. Before this period 
a Baptist Association of ministers in Nottingham had 
fixed upon the first Monday of every month for a con- 
cert of prayer for the conversion of the heathen. The 
Moravians however, preceded the Baptists more than 
fifty years in the observation of this season. 

The London Missionary Society was instituted in 
1795, and the Scottish Missionary Society in the fol- 
ing year. The Church Missionary Society com- 
menced its existence in 1800, The General Wesleyan 
Missionary Society was organized in 1817. though 
the missionary efforts of this denomination ought to 
be dated from 1786. The German Society, the French 
Protestant, the Rhemish and the Netherlands Societies 
are of a more recent date. In the United States, the 
American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions 
was organized in 1810. "The General Convention 
of the Baptist denomination in the United States for 
Foreign Missions" in 1814. " The Missionary Society 
of the Methodist Episcopal Church" in 1819. " The 
Foreign Mission Society of the Protestant Episcopal 
Church" in 1820, and the Wesleyan Foreign Mission 
Society in 1832. These are the principal societes eu- 

- 2 



S -MISSIONARY Ahsi TRACT- 

gaged in extending the kingdon of the Redeemer in 
the world. A hasty glance at the stations they oc- 
cupy, and the success with which their labors have 
been crowned, is all we can bestow in the few pages 
devoted to this subject. From the rapidity which 
marks the changes in foreign missions, and from the 
want of exact data in respect to some stations, we shall 
be compelled, while we aim at precision, to employ 
round numbers in many instances. 

We will commence with Europe. In many parts 
of this favored division of the globe, the light of the 
Gospel has been long enjoyed, and consequently the 
field of missions is limited, compared with other por- 
tions of the world. This remark would lose much 
of its force, if it were not true that the intolerance of 
papal superstition prevents the propagation of the 
Gospel among millions who need it as much as the 
heathen. There are about twenty missionaries em- 
ployed in Europe. Their spheres of labor are Tur- 
key, Greece, and the islands of the Mediterranean 

Constantinople, the metropolis of Turkey, is the 
point at which the efforts of the missionaries in these 
regions have been chiefly directed. It contains a 
mingled population of Turks, Jews. Armenians, and 
Greeks: amounting to six hundred thousand souls. 
The Church Missionary Society, the British and For- 
eign Bible Society, the American Board, and the Jews 
Societies have their respective missionaries in this city. 
The obstacles to the promotion of pure Christianity, 
among such opposcrs and corrupters of the truth, can 
scarcely be overrated ; and yet, as if to prove the al- 
mightiness. as well as the sovereignty of divine grace. 



MISSIONARY 



ABSTRACT. 



9 



the arm of Jehovah has been made bare in this region 
of error and death. A spirit of earnest inquiry has 
been enkindled among the Jews, which has resulted 
in the baptism of several of their number. Were 
it not for the bonds and imprisonment which await 
the convicted and appal the inquiring, there is rea- 
son to believe that the truth would produce far- 
greater effects than at present. The recent accounts 
teem with interest in the Armenian department of la- 
bor. Some of the highest priests have most unex- 
pectedly professsed their faith in the essential doctrines 
of Christianity, and their distrust in the mummeries 
of their own church. Several young men of great 
promise have boldly confessed Christ, and joined them- 
selves to the missionaries in their animating labors, 
The youth in the schools have caught the spirit of se- 
rious inquiry, and the missionaries say of them, " I 
verily believe they would sit for hours every day, with- 
out betraying the least symptom of uneasiness, and 
without interposing a single cavil, to hear me talk to 
them on these infinitely important subjects." 

In Greece ) much is accomplished through the in- 
fluence of Lancasterian schools. At Athens, at Argos. 
and at Syra, flourishing schools are in operation. 
The missionaries have experienced repeated alterna- 
tions of encouragement and trial in their labors, In 
his last communications, Dr. King mentions that the 
government and people, and minister of the inte- 
rior are all friendly. The chief opposition is from 
the Bishops, though he thinks their influence is 
limited. The introduction of the scriptures in the 
schools, and the distribution of thousands of copies, 



l<> MISSIONARY ABSTRACT. 

both of the testament and religious tracts, are among I 
the hopeful incidents of their mission 

In the Ionian Isles, which form a republic under 
the denomination of i: The Seven Islands,*' there are 
one hundred and thirty schools, with nearly five thou- 
sand pupils. Six hundred females are receiving an 
education. The quarantine restrictions on the inter- 
course between these islands and the adjacent conti- 
nent, having been removed, the missionaries have 
sent for large supplies of Christian books, which they 
hoped to distribute in Western Greece. 

Malta, an important island under the English flag, 
is a great depot of books for the different languages 
of the surrounding countries. The missionaries of 
different countries and societies co-operate here. Nearly 
five millions of pages have issued from the teeming 
presses in this island in one year. The labors of the 
missionaries are not confined to this department. 
They have established several very important and 
promising schools, 

ASIA. 

In the continent and islands of Asia there are about 
two hundred and seventy missionaries. 

"In Western and Central Asia, missions are in 
existence in Beyroot, on Mount Lebanon, at Jerusalem, 
Smyrna, on the islands of Cyprus and Scio. in Broosa, 
in the ancient Bithynia, at Trebizond on the Black sea, 
among the Nestorians of lake Oormiah, in Persia, in 
Bagdad, in the ancient Mesopotamia, and among the 
German settlers near the Caucasus in ancient Armenia, 
At Beyroot. with its commodious harbor, Jerusalem 
with its crowds of pilgrims, and Smyrna — all centers 



MISSIONARY ABSTRACT. 



11 



of influence — printing presses have been established 
for the Armenian, Hebrew. Spanish, Arabic, Modern 
Greek, Persian, Turkish, and other tongues spoken in 
these extensive regions. The names of two distin- 
guished converts, Asaad esh Shidiak, and Gregory 
Wortabetj are associated with the success of missions 
in these countries. The books issued from the de- 
pository of the American mission at Smyrna, from 
March 22d, 1834, to June 12th, 183.5, amounted to more 
than twenty-six thousand copies. The schools have 
been carried on with visror. The extensive regions 
of Galatia, Pontus, Cappadocia, Cilicia, Phrygia, and 
other celebrated provinces — formerly the garden of the 
world — are fast becoming encircled with missionary 
out-posts."* 

Northern Asia. The London Missionary Society 
commenced a mission in Siberia about nineteen years 
ago. Until within the last year or two, the missiona- 
ries exerted themselves with very little apparent suc- 
cess. Recently the results of their labor have appear- 
ed. Several ignorant, obstinate natives have been 
brought to bow in deep humility before the cross of 
Christ, and to receive and acknowledge Him, as the 
only Savior of sinners. Three missionaries are en- 
gaged at this station. The same number have been 
employed in Central Russia. We are not informed 
of their success, although from the accounts of the 
Rev. J. Gray, one of their number, now in this coun- 
try, and connected with the Dutch Church, there have 
been some striking conversions. The entire Bible has 



* Boston Recorder. 

2* 



MISSIONARY ABSTRACT: 



been translated in the Mongolian tongue, which is the 
native language of the present dynasty of China. 

For notices of Eastern Asia, or China, and the 
neighboring countries, we would refer the reader to 
fbe following journal. The missionaries have recent- 
ly put thousands of Christian books in circulation in 
China. 

South Eastern Asia. Missions have been estab- 
lished at Siam. Singapore, and Malacca, all of which 
re introduced in the present volume. 

The first attempts to evangelize Burmah were made 
by the English Baptist missionaries, stationed at Sin- 
gapore, in 1307. Some of the brethren of this con- 
nexion still labor in Arraean, a province ceded by 
Bur mall to the English ; and in Chittagong, a neigh- 
boring district in South Eastern Bengal. Their ef- 
forts have been blessed with an encouraging measure 
of divine influence. The American Baptist Mission- 
uiies commenced their operations in Burmah in 1S13, 
After spending six years, amidst toils, and trials, and 
persecutions, without scarcely the least visible success, 
they had the happiness to receive into the fold of 
Christ the first lost sheep of this flock. Since that 
era their labors have been most munificently reward- 
ed. Hundreds of perishing men have renounced 
their idols and their sins, and submitted themselves to 
the care and guidance of the Savior. At present they 
have five stations and three out stations, supplied by 
nine missionaries, four male, and twelve female assist- 
ants, and twenty-two native helpers. Including one 
hundred and sixty foreigners, chiefly British soldiers, 
(they number six hundred converts. 



MISSIONARY ABSTRACT, 



13 



Southern Asia. Hindostan, or India Proper, con- 
tains a population of about one hundred and fifty 
millions of souls. Upwards of one hundred millions 
are British subjects, The whole field is accessible^ 
and inviting. Nearly twenty societies are co-operating 
in Hindostan and Ceylon. The number of missiona- 
ries in this extensive region is about one hundred and 
fifty. Within a few years, great changes have taken 
place. The burning of widows and the destruction 
of infants have been, to a great extent, abolished. 
Since 1S20. no less than sixteen native newspapers 
have been commenced in Calcutta. The English 
language is becoming exceedingly popular among the 
natives, and in process of time, will probably super- 
sede their own. The numbers of natives who are re- 
ceiving an education in this language,— the use made 
of it as a colloquial medium, — the treasures of litera- 
ture which it contains, — and the prospect of substitu- 
ting' the Roman characters for those they employ, are 
the reasons for concluding that the English will one 
day become the language of the country. Evidences 
are constantly increasing of the wane and approaching 
expiration of Hindooism. It is impossible to notice all 
the stations in this brief survey. In some places the 
success of the Gospel has been extraordinary. Jn 
Southern India, the immortal Schwartz was the agent 
of accomplishing the most amazing revolutions. Re- 
cently the Church Missionary Society has been sig- 
nalized by the eminent usefulness of its missionaries, 
H It is now nearly ten years/' is the language of one 
of their missionaries, " since we arrived at Palamcotta, 
When we came, we had no congregation except the 



ii 



MISSIONARY ABSTRACT. 



people of our household, with a few persons of the 
Tanjore Mission, and no Christian schools, but six 
or seven heathen schools left by the former Chaplains, 
for our superintendence : and now we have two hun- 
dred and forty four villages, in each of which there is 
a number of Christian families and about seven thou- 
sand five hundred souls under our care." The last 
estimate is two hundred and sixty one villages, two 
thousand two hundred eighty-nine families, eight thou- 
sand one hundred thirty-eight individuals : seminary — 
thirty-four students, eleven of whom are pious : schools, 
forty-two under heathen teachers, with fifteen hundred 
scholars, and twenty-three under catechists with neat- 
ly three hundred pupils. These accounts are several 
years old. "So mightily grew the word of God and 
prevailed,' 3 

In Ceylon the prosperity of the various missions 
has redounded, through the thanksgivings of many, to 
the glory of God. Our few remarks shall be limited 
to the American mission, although other societies have 
been greatly cheered in their exertions. The Ameri- 
can Board commenced their operations in this island 
in 1S16. The scene of their labors is the district of 
Jaffna, or northern extremity of the island. They 
occupy seven stations and two or three out stations. 
Besides eleven missionaries and sixteen assistants, 
there are thirty-nine native laborers employed in this 
field. They have under their care more than one 
hundred and twenty free schools, in which upwards of 
five thousand children are receiving instruction. They 
have also preparatory day schools, female boarding 
schools, and a seminary with one hundred and twenty 



MISSIONARY ABSTRACT. 15 

students, in which the sciences, including medicine 
and theology, are taught. In these institutions seve- 
ral powerful revivals have been enjoyed. The effu- 
sions of the Holy Spirit have not been limited to these 
scenes of learning. More than two hundred natives 
had been added to the church, before the last power- 
ful awakening commenced. We have no definite ac- 
counts of the recent accession, as the fruits of this 
precious season have not yet been all gathered. 

INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO, 

For information respecting these islands we would 
again refer to the ensuing pages, Two or three mis- 
sionaries have recently sailed for Borneo and Sumatra. 

Australasia. In New South Wales there are a 
few missionaries belonging to the Church and Wes- 
leyan societies. The same societies have been labor- 
ing, amid most remarkable displays of divine power, 
in the island of New Zealand. The character of the 
New Zeaianders is extremely ferocious and sanguinary. 
They are cannibals of the most disgusting description, 
A few years ago, war and carnage rendered this devo- 
ted spot, — the very suburbs of hell. The missiona- 
aries commenced their efforts with difficulty, and con- 
tinued them amid repeated and appalling trials. They 
have been shocked, since their arrival, with scenes oi 
cruelty at which humanity turns pale. "Yesterday," 
writes one of them, " they shot a poor girl of about 
ten years oJd and ate her. They told us laughingly 
that they were hungry, and that they killed and ate 
her with some sweet potatoes." But recently the 
scene has changed. The transforming influence of 
the Gospel has been so wonderful, that infidelity must 



MISSIONARY ABSTRACT. 



stand aghast; while charity weeps for joy. A few ex* 
tracts from recent accounts will show what God has 
wrought. 

" In the direct object of the mission much more 
work offers itself than the missionaries are able to per- 
form. Scarcely a day passes without their preaching, 
and many persons who live at distant places earnestly 
request visits from them, if it were only for a few days : 
offering to make roads on purpose for them, and to 
afford them every possible facility. But a short time 
ago. the people tabooed, or made sacred the roads, that 
the missionaries might not traverse them, and declared 
the rivers sacred to prevent them from crossing them. 
The natives are not only anxious to receive religious 
instruction : but they wish the missionaries to make 
laws for them. They consult them as casuists, and 
they seek counsel of them as to matters of peace and 
war. The native cruelty is diminishing. War is 
less known. Infanticide is likely to be altogether 
abolished. In the course of the first few years of my 
residence in New Zealand. I witnessed six different 
cases of infanticide. I have seen mothers break the 
necks and dash out the brains of babes who hung at 
their breasts ; but in the course of the last four years. 
I have not witnessed one case of the kind. Eight 
hundred natives have been taught to read the word 
of God for themselves, while hundreds more are 
able to make out the meaning, though not so as 
to be fully intelligible to others. When I mention 
that three hundred New Zealanders have embraced 
the Gospel, and are aiming to live in consistency with 
its sacred requirements. I am sure that the people of 



MISSIONARY ABSTRACT, 



IT 



God will rejoice. I have attended the death beds of 
upwards of forty natives, and have witnessed some of 
those scenes of holy confidence and joy which are so 
delightful to the Christian," 

Speaking of occupying a new station , the missiona- 
ry remarks, " Formerly we were not allowed to land 
at that place, hut now we were met by fifteen hundred 
of the natives. An old chief was called upon by his 
people to make a speech, and he spoke for nearly an 
hour. 1 The missionaries,' said he, ' are come to blunt 
the points of our spears — to snap our clubs asunder — < 
to draw the bullets out of our muskets — to bury our 
bayonets — to bring this tribe and that together, and to 
make them all live in peace.' A loud shout then 
burst forth from the whole assembly, ' We will have 
them — we will have them.' Such have been the dis- 
plays of divine grace in New Zealand." 

Polynesia. The London, Wesley an and American 
societies occupy these numerous and scattered islands. 
Here too the most remarkable revolutions have been 
accomplished by the power of the truth. " On the 
10th of August, 1796, twenty-nine missionaries of the 
London Missionary Society embarked from London 
for this and the neighboring islands. March 6, 1797, 
eighteen landed at Tahiti : ten at Tongataboo, in the 
following month j the other at St. Christina, in the 
succeeding June. A number of most auspicious cir- 
cumstances attended this commencement; and the re- 
port of Capt. Wilson, upon the return of the ship Duff, 
elated the friends of the mission beyond measure. 
But the triumph was soon turned into lamentation. 
The capture by the French of the Duff in her second 



MISSIONARY ABSTRACT 



voyage to the South Seas, with ten married and nine- 
teen single missionaries — the report of the departure 
of eleven of the number that were at Tahiti for Port 
Jackson, on account of the ill-treatment of the natives 
— the murder of one of them at New South Wales — 
the murder of three others at Tongataboo, and other 
calamities almost overwhelmed the Society, and threat- 
ened to quench the missionary zeal of the religious 
public. The cause of the South Sea islanders, how- 
ever, was not relinquished. The directors encouraged 
the seven missionaries remaining at Tahiti to com 
tinue, urged those that were at Port Jackson to re- 
turn; and sent out twelve more to assist them. In 
1810, thirteen years after they first reached Tahiti, 
they all. with the exception of two. left the islands on 
account of the wars of the natives. This news again 
afflicted the Society, and their hopes of final success 
were almost extinguished. It was a time of great 
anxiety and much prayer. The majority of the So- 
ciety urged the missionaries again to return to Tahiti 
as soon as circumstances would allow it. They did 
return, and now the sun of prosperity dawned and 
brightened upon them. Several of the missionaries 
had become quite masters of the language, and the 
saving power of the Spirit accompanied their preach- 
ing*"* The kins Pomare was the first convert. 
Twenty-two years after their arrival, the surviving 
missionaries had the gratification of receiving him to 
the communion of the Christian church. Others were 
similarly and almost simultaneously affected. And 



* Missionary Gazetteer. 



MISSIONARY ABSTEACt, 



19 



now the holy flame spread, and as it spread the idol 
temples and wooden gods were speedily consumed, 
Schools were instituted ; congregations were organi- 
zed ; churches, some of them of vast dimensions, were 
erected and even auxiliary missionary societies were 
formed. 

The tidings spread to the neighboring islands, and 
even to the distant groups of islands. The effect was 
electrical. Without ever having seen a missionary, 
several islands, incited by mere report, deliberately re- 
nounced idolatry, and abjured heathenism. Succes- 
sive bands of missionaries have been sent forth, and 
an army of native assistants have devoted themselves 
to the cause of missions. The work of evangelizing 
these islands has advanced with amazing rapidity. 
From the last report of the London Missionary So- 
ciety, they have stations on three of the Georgian isl- 
ands, five of the Society, six of the Hervey, and seve- 
ral of the Austral, Paumota, Navigator's and Mar- 
quesas groups. 

The success of the Wedeyans at the Friendly isl- 
ands is almost incredible. In one year, three thou- 
sand three hundred and twenty-nine were added to 
church fellowship. More than one hundred na- 
tive missionaries are employed. In one year, sixteen 
thousand eight hundred books were issued from the 
press. Since the establishment of the mission nine 
years ago, about ten thousand natives have embraced 
the profession of Christianity ; of whom four thousand 
four hundred are communicants. There is no limit t@ 
the usefulness of the mission, but the physical 
strength of the missionaries. 

3 



250 



MISSIONARY ABSTRACT, 



The Sandwich Islands. This mission fras com 
menced by the American Board in 1820. Twenty- 
two missionaries arrived in July of that year. Before 
they reached the islands, the natives had heard the 
rumor from the Society cluster — three thousand miles 
distant, and such was the mighty influence of this 
reiterated report, that the government and people de- 
termined to abandon idolatry, and commit their images 
and all the monuments of their former heathenism to 
the flames. The first news which saluted the ears of 
the missionaries on their arrival was. " Tamahmaha is 
dead — the taboos are broken — the idols are burnt — the 
morais are destroyed, and the priesthood abolished." 

The labors of the missionaries so auspiciously com- 
menced have resulted in the most favorable changes, 
as well in the intellectual; social and civil, as in the 
religious condition of the islanders. A few years ago, 
about one third of the whole population were connect- 
ed with the schools — nine hundred of the natives 
were employed as school-masters. Lately the mission 
has experienced some tiying reverses. Most of the 
schools formerly under the instruction of native teach- 
ers have been partially or wholly suspended. The 
want of sufficiently qualified teachers — those formerly 
employed being themselves but children in knowledge 
— -and the fact that the authority of the rulers, which 
for a time kept the schools in operation, is now relax- 
ed, are among the principal reasons. The influence 
and conduct of unprincipled Europeans has been a 
serious disadvantage to the Gospel in these islands. 

At present the missions are recovering from the 
shock— good has resulted from the trial, and the work 



MISSIONARY ABSTRACT. 



21 



is advancing, although its apparent prosperity has 
been diminished. 

AFRICA, 

In North Africa, attempts have been made to estab- 
lish a mission in Algiers, but hitherto the effort has 
been unsuccessful. At Tunis a missionary is labor- 
ing under favorable auspices — maintaining discussions 
with the Jews, and distributing Christian books. 

In Eastern Africa, there are several missionaries ; 
three are stationed at Cairo and its vicinity — one in 
Alexandria, and four, including two artizans, in Abys- 
sinia. The last named mission was commenced in 
1831, and has been prosecuted with much zeal and 
success. 

The London Missionary Society have missionaries 
in Madagascar, and the Mauritius. The number of 
inhabitants in the extensive island of Madagascar is 
estimated at four millions. Sunshine and storms have 
succeeded each other in this mission. When the mis- 
sionaries have enjoyed unrestricted liberty, their la- 
bors have been exceedingly productive. Such has 
been the thirst for divine knowledge, that the 
places of public worship have been thronged. The 
ordinary congregations have numbered one thousand 
souls each, which has been increased at times to five 
thousand worshipers. A large number have been 
baptized, and many of the converts appear remarkably 
enlightened and firm in their profession of Chris- 
tianity. The last accounts are unfavorable. The 
progress and prevalence of the Gospel have alarmed 
or rather enraged the dueen and her government, and 
the most solemn and severe edicts against Christianity 



22 



MISSIONARY ABSTRACT 



have been issued. The reports that the established 
customs of their ancient superstition were neglected, 
and that the new religion was subverting the whole 
system of paganism, produced the greatest sensation ... 
A national assembly was held, in which the sovereign 
proclaimed formally to a prodigious concourse his de- 
termination to suppress Christianity. One month has 
been given to the people to come forward and accuse 
themselves of whatever they had done in compliance 
with the new religion. Punishments of various kinds 
have been threatened against past, as well as future 
offenders. How far "He who sitteth in the heavens" 
may suffer the progress of his cause to be supended in 
this island, we do not know — its ultimate triumph rests 
upon His irreversible decree. 

South Af rica is one of the most favored missionary 
fields in the world. Eighty missionaries belonging 
to eleven societies are co-operating in evangelizing 
the numerous tribes of the southern division of this 
continent. Their success has been remarkable. The 
United Brethren alone report upwards of three thou- 
sand converts. The other societies have been sig- 
nally blessed. Schools are numerous and flourishing. 
Many wandering tribes have been induced to settle, 
and in the enjoyment of the means of grace, great 
numbers have been converted. The civil polity and 
social order of these lawless nomadic bands have kept 
pace with their spiritual improvement. The anxiety 
of many of their chieftains to have Christian mission- 
aries settle among them, proves the favor as well as 
the astonishing success, which God has given his 
servants, in the sight of these degraded- heathen,. In 



MISSIONARY ABSTRACT. 



23 



M : e or two instances large droves of cattle have beer* 
proffered for the services of the missionaries. South 
Africa has frequently enjoyed the reviving effusions of 
God's Spirit. Some of the most sanguinary and des- 
perate marauders have been transformed into the 
meek and unresisting disciples of Christ. 

The celebrated Africaner stands pre-eminent among 
these trophies of saving grace. He had been such a 
terror to the colony, that a thousand dollars were of- 
fered to any man who would shoot him. " When Mr. 
Campbell crossed Africa in his first journey, he was 
more alarmed with the idea of meeting Africaner than 
with all the other dangers to which he was exposed." 
The change in this man was total, and proved itself 
genuine, by an entire consistency in his subsequent 
life. We have no time to enter into details, upon the 
prosperity of these missions. Two or three general 
facts speak volumes. The Christian sabbath has been 
established by three of the Caffree chiefs in their ex- 
tensive tribes. The Hottentots, who were once class- 
ed with the ouran outang, have their infant schools 3 
saving banks, lending libraries, and temperance socie- 
ties. At Lattakoo, the most remote station from the 
Cape, belonging to the London Society, where the 
missionary lingered long in hope, almost against hope, 
"the voice of prayer at morning, evening and mid- 
night has been frequently heard in every direction 
from the habitations of the natives or the bushes 
whither they have retired for the purpose of devotion. 
The prayer meeting is crowded to excess — civilization 
and industry are advancing — the wilderness is glad- 
dened*" 

3* 



42 



MISSIONARY, ABSTRACT- 



Western Africa, " Missions ar colonies are estab- 
lished at Sierra Leone, on some islands in the river 
Gambia, at six or eight places in the colony of Libe- 
ria, and at Cape Palmas. The number of communi- 
cants at the church missions in Siera Leone is be- 
tween four and five hundred. Three thousand attend 
on public worship. — twelve hundred children have 
been gathered into their schools. The Divine favor 
in an increasing degree, appears to be vouchsafed to 
the missionaries. With difficulties arising from the 
climate, and the state of society, they still press for- 
ward. The Wesleyans have penetrated three hun- 
dred miles up the Gambia, and have established a 
mission in the center of the Mandingo and Foulah 
tribes. They number eight hundred members ia their 
society. The churches in. Liberia are in a flcurish- 
ins" state. In the course of a single month five hun- 
dred and three persons pledged themselves to total ab- 
stinence from the use or sale of intoxicating liquors ; 
and the sight of it is rare. The Colonists have been 
convinced of the importance of agriculture, and the 
prejudice in favor of trade is abating. The Sabbath 
is universally regarded. Successful efforts have been 
made to promote the health of the colonists. The 
towns have been incorporated. The newspaper ex- 
hibits increasing spirit and intelligence. The Mary- 
land colonies are flourishing. Mr. "Wilson, the mis- 
sionary, thinks that the influence of the colony will 
be favorable on the surrounding tribes. Energetic 
measures are in operation for the restoration of the 
Philadelphia and New York colony at Basse Cove."* 



* Boston Recorder, 



MISSIONARY ABSTRACT. 35 
AMERICA. 

In South America the London Missionary Society 
Rave eight missionaries and one assistant. Their sta- 
tions are at Demarara,, Essequebo, and Berbice, The 
Wesleyans have four stations at Demarara, Their 
labors are principally among' the slaves^ several thou- 
sands of whom have been gathered into the church. 

At Surinam the Moravians have seven or eight mis- 
sionaries and several assistants. Three thousand souls 
have been brought into the liberty of God's children 
through their instrumentality. This is their present 
number of converts ; how many more have passed in- 
to glory we are not informed. 

The slaves of the West Indies have powerfully ex- 
cited the compassion of the Christian ehirrch. They 
have received more attention, than any other heathen 
population upon earth. About one hundred and fifty 
Protestant missionaries have been allotted by different 
denominations of Christians to three millions of souls. 
Their success has been highly encouraging, Thou- 
sands have been taught in the schools, and tens of 
thousands gathered within the pale of the Christian 
church. The English Baptists have nearly ten thou- 
sand members in their churches, and the Wesleyans 
upwards of thirty thousand. The Moravians com- 
menced their operations in these islands. Their suc- 
cess has corresponded with their patient and perseve- 
ring industry. About thirty-five thousand souls are 
now embraced within the communion. of their church. 
The condition of a slave population is such as not to 
admit of the same striking results which the gospel 
produces in a free community. Unaccustomed to 



26 



MISSIONARY ABSTRACT. 



mental exertion, with no pecuniary resources, and' 
without the command of their own time, they can nei- 
ther be employed as preachers, or teachers, or promo- 
ters of Christianity, except to a very limited extent. 

Among the Indians, or Aborigines in the United 
States and Canada, there are about seventy or eighty 
missionaries, and a good proportion of teachers. The 
work has been carried on amid many obstacles, 
though with considerable success. The habits of these 
wild and wandering tribes, — their extravagant passion 
for ardent spirits, — the revengeful and unforgiving 
cruelty of their dispositions, — and the treatment they 
have received from unprincipled traders, have all com- 
bined to perpetuate their moral degradation. The 
American Board have about one thousand members in 
tire churches of their various missions. Other socie- 
ties have also been greatly rewarded for their labor of 
love among them. The American Methodist Mission- 
ary Society, have about seven or eight thousand In- 
dians belonging to the communion of their church, in 
the United States and Upper Canada. The American 
Baptists and United Brethren have each of them a few 
hundred Indian members connected with their socie- 
ties. The establishment of schools among them has 
resulted in much good. Among the fairest specimens 
of piety upon earth,, have been some of these children 
of the forest. 

One of the most appalling spheres of missionary toil 
in the world, is the inhospitable region of Greenland 
and Labrador. The intrepid Moravians selected these 
countries for the exercise of their first Christian zeal. 
The hardships to which these self-sacrificing men have 



MISSIONARY ABSTRACTS 2T 

Been voluntarily exposed, recall forcibly the Apostle's 
enumeration of his own trials, " in weariness and 
painful ness, in watchings often, in hunger and thirst 
in fastings often, in cold and nakedness;" 

Three missionaries arrived in Greenland in 1733. 
They labored six years without any apparent success. 
A remarkable change then took place in their mode 
of preaching, and the result was powerful and almost 
immediate. Their first convert, who had been pecul- 
iarly depraved^ related his experience at one of their 
meetings in the following language: — "Brethren, I 
have been a heathen, and grown old among them : 
therefore I know very well how it is with the heathen,, 
and how they think. A preacher once came to us de- 
siring to instruct us, and began by proving to us that 
there was a God, — on which we said to him — i Well, 
dost thou think we are ignorant of that ? Now go back 
to the place from whence thou earnest.' Then again 
another preacher came,., and. began to instruct us, say- 
ing — ' You must not steal, nor drink too much, nor 
lie, nor lead wicked lives.' We answered him — i Fool 
that thou art ! Dost thou think we do not know that V 
Thus we sent him away also. Some time after this,. 
Christian Henry, one of the brethren, came to me in 
my hut, and sat down by me. The contents of his 
discourse to me were nearly these : ' I come to thee in 
the name of the Lord of heaven and earth ; he sends 
me to acquaint thee, that he would gladly save thee 
and make thee happy, and deliver thee from the mis- 
erable state in which thou liest at present. To this 
end he became a man, gave his life a ransom for man 3 
and gave his blood for man. All who believe in the 



2S 



MISSIONARY ABSTRACT, 



name of this Jesus obtain the forgiveness of sin ; to 
all them that receive him by faith, he giveth power to 
become sons of God. The Holy Spirit dwelleth in 
their hearts, and they are made free through the blood 
of Christ, from the slavery and dominion of sin. And 
though thou art the chief of sinners, yet if thoa pray- 
est to the Father in his name, and believest in him as 
a sacrifice for thy sins, thou shalt be heard and saved ; 
and he will give thee a crown of life, and thou shalt 
live with him in heaven for ever.' When he finished 
his discourse, he lay down upon a board in my hut 
and fell into a sound sleep. I thought within myself, 
what manner of man is this ? There he lies and sleeps 
so sweetly. I might kill him, and throw him out in- 
to the forest^ and who would regard it ? But he is un- 
concerned. This cannot be a bad man, — he fears no 
evil ; not even from us, who are so savage. However 
I could not forget his words. They constantly recur- 
red to my mind ; even though I went to sleep, yet I 
dreamed of the blood which Christ had shed for 
as. I thought this very strange, and quite different 
from what I had ever heard. So I went and inter- 
preted Christian Henry's -words to the other Indians/ 5 
As the result of the preaching of the cross, an exten- 
sive awakening took place. 

The mission in Labrador was commenced about 
twenty years subsequent to that in Greenland. The 
history of the two are similar. Amid many priva- 
tions and severe trials, the word of God has had free 
course, and been glorified. Repeated revivals have 
rewarded and encouraged the missionaries. In the 
two places there are seven or eight stations, and about 



MISSIONARY ABSTRACT. 



29 



fifty laborers. The number of converts is nearly three 
thousand. 

From this hasty glance at the great missionary field 3 
we cannot but be impressed with the infinite impor- 
tance of preaching the gospel to the heathen, The 
condition of the unevangelizred world appeals loudly 
to our Christian sympathies. Involved alike in the 
ruins of the general apostasy,— hastening to the same 
interminable and changeless destiny, and with no other 
possibility of recovery than faith in a proffered Sav- 
ior, the various nations and tribes of unchristianized 
men can be regarded with indifference only where ths 
love and pity of the Redeemer have no influence. To 
detail the present wretchedness, and dwell upon the 
prospective miseries of the heathen world, would be 
extremely useful if our space would permit. We 
would beg every Christian, as an indispensable part of 
his duty, — as a fundamental evidence of his attach- 
ment to his Savior, to read the many publications 
which abound and are daily increasing on this subject. 
" The Missionary Gazeteer," — " The origin and histo- 
ry of missions," and the various cheap periodicals, — 
such as a The Missionary Herald," are most earnestly 
recommended to the careful perusal of every Chris- 
tian. While they find much to excite their compas- 
sion and melt their hearts, they will be encouraged by 
the success of missions, to believe that the world can 
and shall be converted. 

Although comparatively very little has been at- 
tempted, — notwithstanding there are only about six 
hundred stations and seven hundred missionaries in 
all the worldj — of whom nearly two hundred and fifty 



30 



MISSIONARY ABSTRACT. 



are laboring among the slaves of the West Indies,— 
yet the work which has been accomplished, and the 
sources of permanent and efficient influence which 
have been created are incalculable. Languages have 
been acquired, and even improved ; literature has been 
studied, and, where deficient, created. Dictionaries have 
been compiled, — elementary works composed, — and 
many of the best writings translated into heathen 
tongues. 

About fifty presses are pouring their streams of life 
into this parched and barren field. More than one 
thousand native assistants, having first given them- 
selves to Christ, have consecrated their lives to this 
blessed work. The " gospel of salvation 55 has been 
translated into one hundred and fifty languages. 
Thousands of schools, — some of them for the higher 
branches of education, — are sending their rays of 
knowledge and life amid the darkness and superstition 
of heathenism. More than one hundred thousand souls 
have been gathered into the pale of the visible church. 
The preparatory work having been accomplished in 
many of the most important countries in the world, — 
the progress of missions must receive an increasing 
momentum, as the time of promise advances, until the 
last heathen temple has crumbled, and the last igno- 
rant and cheerless pagan been transformed into an in- 
telligent and a happy child of God s 



CHAPTER L 



DEPARTURE PROM NEW YORK PASSAGE — INDIAN 

ARCHIPELAGO. 

An extraordinary event introduced the Rev. E. C„ 
Bridgman and myself to each other's acquaintance; 
and united us in the delightful duty of " bearing the 
name of Jesus before the Gentiles.' 7 A gentleman, 
whose character needs no eulogium,* had a ship on 
the eve of sailing for Canton. He himself had resi- 
ded several years in that distant mart of commerce^ 
and had there formed an endearing friendship with Dr. 
Morrison. Touched with the moral degradation of 
that empire, he had resolved, and I believe promised 
the Doctor to employ his influence in engaging fellow 
laborers for this neglected field. About a fortnight 
before the vessel sailed, he proffered a passage, and a 
year's residence in his commercial establishment, to 
any missionary, who would devote his life to the spir- 
itual benefit of China. This proffer was made in the 
presence of several gentlemen. One of them proceeded 
or wrote to Andover. Another conveyed the informa- 
tion to myself. I had previously resolved to spend my 
days in Palestine and the neighboring countries ; but 



*D, W, C> Oliphant, Esq* 

4 



32 



DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORK. 



at the time appointed to fulfil this purpose, my health 
failed, and I was obliged to seek its restoration in a 
tropical climate. After a residence of nine months in 
the West Indies. I returned to New York, and in a 
few weeks heard of this opportunity for usefulness. 
There was no insuperable obstacle to my compliance. 
The work accorded well with my best feelings — the 
change of destination was rather agreeable than other- 
wise, as it intimated the will of God. in opposition to 
my own — I knew of no other minister in the city, 
whose previous convictions and present circumstan- 
ces were so peculiarly favorable to such an underta- 
king. And although I was aware there were heathen 
- enough at home, and though I was obliged to tear 
myself away from a growing church in the city, yet 
I felt it my duty to accept the providential invitation. 
There were many to take my place here. I knew 
of none other who could and would go. The gentle- 
man's proffer was limited to one missionary. As was 
mentioned, it was proposed to jlr. Bridgman and my- 
self, by persons who were ignorant of each other's en- 
deavor to obtain the desired individual. We after* 
wards ascertained that the application was made to 
both on the same da}'. Though we were several hun- 
dreds of miles distant from each other, we resolved 
about the same time to undertake the service, and hav- 
ing gone into the country to consult with my parents, 
we arrived in New York nearly together, to make the 
necessary arrangements. The Seamen's Friend Society 
had requested that the missionary should act as their 
chaplain for the first year. I went to their office to 
signify my willingness to comply with their request. 



DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORK. 



33 



A stranger had just preceded me. This stranger had 
come for the same purpose. Unacquainted with each 
other and each other's object, we spoke of the same 
event and announced the same determination. The 
surprise was mutual ; but it soon yielded to a grateful 
recognition of the hand of God in the circumstance. 
The owner of the ship, and all interested in the pro- 
ject, agreed that both should go, and both went. It 
may be useful to laymen, and especially those engaged 
in foreign commerce, to remember that the American 
Mission to China was commenced by the instrumental- 
ity of one of their own number, And it will stimulate 
every Christian to perceive how the Lord repays to us 
double our feeble attempts to serve him. 

The time for preparation was exceedingly limited. 
In a series of public services, we were affectionately " re- 
commended by the brethren unto the grace of God,' 7 
and the 14th of Oct. 1829, was fixed as the day of 
embarkation. A company of relatives and Christian 
friends attended us to the ship, and once more com- 
mitted us to the guardianship and guidance of Him 
who had engaged to be with us alway. 

The Roman, which was to convey us to our desti- 
nation, is one of the largest class of American merchant- 
men — her accommodations were ample, and provisions 
choice and abundant. Captain Lavender had appro- 
ved himself a competent, intelligent, and attentive offi- 
cer — which character he sustained to entire satisfac- 
tion throughout the passage, — and four gentlemen, citu 
zens of New York, were our fellow-passengers. 

Our friends having returned to shore, we weighed 



34 



PASSAGE, 



anchor, and attempted to get to sea. After toiling 
long and fruitlessly, we were obliged to resume our 
former position. The second morning a similar ef- 
fort was made ; but the winds and waves were equal- 
ly unpropitious, and the same result followed. The 
sight of New York kept on the rack those painful emo- 
tions, which had been awakened by leaving ail whom 
we loved on earth. To the Missionary, perhaps exclu- 
sively, is the separation from friends like the farewell of 
death. Though ignorant of the future, he expects no 
farther personal intercourse on earth. To him the 
next meeting is generally beyond the grave. 

Early on Friday morning, we left our anchorage, 
and with a light, though favorable breeze, stood to sea. 
The wind freshened as we advanced, and between 
eight and nine o'clock, the return of the pilot present- 
ed the last opportuniny of communicating with shore. 

During the greater part of the passage, nothing oc- 
curred which is not generally witnessed, and has not 
been frequently detailed. Divine service was early 
commenced on the morning and afternoon of the 
Lord's day, and social worship every evening at the 
change of the watch. As no compulsory measures 
were employed to gain the attendance of the crew, 
composed of a heterogeneous company, the number 
of worshipers varied with their fickle inclinations. 
Nothing proved so effectual in bringing them together, 
as frequent visits to the forecastle, and more private 
interviews with them, when disengaged in their night 
watch upon deck. 

Nearly three months elapsed on our passage, before 
we enjoyed a sight of land. The first stable object 



PASSAGE. 



35 



which changed for a moment our wearisome pros- 
pect, was the small island of St. Paul. It is remark- 
able for a pond, which furnishes to the voyager, a 
well stored larder, and a self-cooking kitchen. Fish 
which are taken in abundance and variety, may be 
thrown from the hook into boiling springs, and thus 
prepared for the table, without trouble or expense. 
The immense distance of this rocky islet and its sister 
Amsterdam from any continent, is another peculiarity. 

On the 25th of January, Sandal-wood island, the first 
land made in the eastern passage, was descried. Be- 
fore its highest hills were visible, its proximity was in- 
dicated by large land birds, resembling eagles, majes- 
tically sailing in the air, above us ; and butterflies, or 
winged grasshoppers, which borne on the breeze, came 
and lighted upon the ship. The island is extensive, 
and produces many valuable articles, though very lit- 
tle is known of the physical, political, or moral condi- 
tion of its inhabitants. No attempts have been made f 
by Protestant Christians, for its conversion ; none to 
discover whether, with its populous neighbors, it is not 
waiting for God's law. 

That the feasibility of establishing missions upon 
some, or all of these islands, might be readily tested, is 
evident to those who have sailed almost within hail of 
their shores, and whose timidity, or want of zeal, does 
not control a laudable spirit of Christian enterprise. 
Our course was through the Ombay passage, and af- 
forded a view of the islands of Flores, Solor, L em- 
blem, Panter and Ombay, on the left, and of Timor 5 
Cambing, Baby, and probably Wetter, on the right. 
As may be readily supposed, the greater part of our 

4* 



36 



PASSAGE. 



time was consumed in feasting the eyes upon the 
cheering and changing aspects of land, and in suf- 
fering the imagination to expatiate, where it would 
be more interesting, and probably more hazardous to 
roam in person. Since it was not our object to land r 
we were by no means grieved to enjoy the coolness 
and impetus of a fresh breeze, and soon to leave these 
smiling spots to charm the hearts and eyes of our suc- 
cessors. Numerous huts can be distinguished on the 
hills of many of these islands. One of our passengers, 
on a previous voyage, was becalmed a day and night, 
within a short distance of Ombay. In addition to the 
dwellings he could discern by day, fires, probably for 
cooking, were lighted in the evening, which, bespang- 
ling the shores and hills of this and the adjacent islands, 
indicated a considerable population. 

How far the Catholics succeeded in their early at- 
tempts to diffuse their faith through this part of the 
Archipelago, or to what extent the trophies of their 
ancient zeal may still exist, where commerce has ceas- 
ed to allure the European trader, it is quite impossi- 
ble to determine, 

The Portuguese were probably the first who at- 
tempted the conversion of these islands to nominal 
Christianity. They took possession of the colonies as 
early as 1510. or soon after, and commenced at the 
same time their religious operations : but there is rea- 
son to believe, from authentic records, and existing 
facts, that their success was by no means answerable 
to the latitude of faith and practice generally admit- 
ted in their proselyting policy. Before the middle of 
the sixteenth century, the celebrated Xavier and his 



INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO, 



37 



coadjutors arrived in these regions, and displayed, ac- 
cording to the saint's biogapher, those wonders of su- 
perhuman wisdom and power, by which, thousands 
were forthwith converted to the true faith. Near the 
close of the century, the Dutch dispossessed the Por- 
tuguese, and soon afterwards introduced Protestant- 
ism among the natives.* 

It is said that " one principal purpose of the form- 
ation of the Dutch East India Company, was the prop- 
agation of Christianity in those countries, which 
should come under their dominion." Had the same 
purpose actuated the foreign agents of the company, 
and all the early chaplains of the establishment, as it 
did many of them, the genuine conversion of these 
lovely and populous islands had probably been the 
result. The natives were not simply willing, but re- 
ally desirous to become acquainted with the religion 
professed by the Dutch. They even solicited teach- 
ers, and when their request was granted, submitted to 
their instructors, with the greatest docility and confi- 
dence. 

In looking over the records of these times, we are 
struck with a number of rather opposing facts, and 
scarcely know whether to give flow to our feelings of 
admiration at the zeal and energy of some of the first 
chaplains ; or of deep regret at their injudicious plans, 
and the comparative fruitlessness of their vast labors. 
They studied and wrote ; they traveled and preach- 
ed; they founded churches and opened schools — such 



* The information contained in the following pages is derived from 
the history of missions, and missionary reports in the Dutch Ian* 
guage. 



38 



INDIAN ARHIPELAGO. 



were the variety and multiplicity of their measures ; 
such the magnitude and success of their efforts, that 
according to their reports, the devils, the only ac- 
knowledged deities of these regions, soon found their 
temples deserted ; their rites neglected : and whole 
villages and islands alienated from their allegiance. 
At the close of the seventeenth century, forty thousand 
natives had enrolled themselves among the disciples 
of the Savior.* But here we are compelled to check 
our admiration, by a knowledge of the result. A de- 
clension soon commenced, and continued with such 
rapidity, that whole districts speedily relapsed into 
their former abominations. The causes of this de- 
cline, or rather of the apparent conversion of such 
numbers, who afterwards apostatized, are various. 
Many of the chaplains opposed, in spirit and conduct, 
their worthy coadjutors ; too much stress was laid up- 
on a knowledge of the technicalities, or a compliance 
with the formalities of Christianity, too little upon the 
renovation of the heart : professing Christians were 
preferred to their heathen neighbors in the distribu- 
tion of petty offices under governments, and even a 
monthly allowance of rice was served out to those, 
and those only, who had received the rite of baptism. 

During the eighteenth century, we read of very few 
attempts to revive the spirit of Christianity, or even to 
preserve from a hastening extinction " that which re- 
mained, and was ready to die." Many of the schools 
were kept up, and other means previously established 



* I have not been able to ascertain the population of the islands at 
this time. 



INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



39 



continued ; but the labor devolved principally upon 
the natives, and their qualifications were inadequate to 
the work ; the churches at home were languishing; 
and the few messengers sent out, took little or no in- 
terest in the instruction of the heathen. To determine 
what amount of good was really effected by these ear- 
ly missionary efforts, requires a new series of data, ve- 
ry different from the contradictory reports of the times, 
or the opposing sentiments of later commentators. That 
many were translated out of darkness into light, who 
would hesitate to believe ? that thousands were self- 
deluded, or deceived, who could deny? When we 
consider what evidently might have been effected, and 
what was no doubt the aim of the devoted men of 
whom we have spoken, we are grieved at the conse- 
quences. For more than two hundred years this des- 
ert might have bloomed, like the garden of the Lord, 
and loaded with its fragrance every breeze which re- 
freshes the vast continent and islands of south-eastern 
Asia. 

These few historical facts bring us down to our 
own times, and prepare us for the remarks which may 
be offered, in regard to the missions of the present day, 
in the different islands that shall be noticed. 

The large island of Timor was one of those inclu- 
ded within our view while passing through the Ombay 
passage. Its forest trees crowning a majestic bank, 
which skirted the sea, waved us a graceful invitation 
to their cooling shades — perhaps to the relief of the 
crowds who perish beneath them. Timor is one of 
the most extensive and important islands in these 
seas. According to the account of travelers, a 



40 



INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



number of in dependent, unsocial tribes roam through its 
deep interior, who have so little mutual intercourse, that 
no less than forty languages are employed among 
them. There are two foreign establishments upon 
the island, the one occupied by the Portuguese, the 
other by the Dutch. The former is called Belli, or 
DidiL and is situated on the north-east part of the is- 
land. Of its commercial importance we know but lit- 
tle. More than three centuries have elapsed since the 
Roman Catholic religion was introduced here, and al- 
though the Portuguese colonists, and their numerous 
priests, have generally given it currency in other parts 
of the east, where they have preserved a foothold, yet 
Timor has received but little attention at their hands. 
According to a witness of their own nation and reli- 
gion, the principal cause of this neglect is found in the 
cupidity and profligacy of the priests. The greater 
part of the day they employ in speculations in sandal 
wood. wax. gold, copper, and even the very heathen 
themselves, whom they purchase and export as slaves. 
This however is but a part of their unchristian con- 
duct, 

"By night they practice every sin. 
By day their hands draw nigh to God. v 

The most disgraceful ecclesiastics in Macao, are 
generally selected for Timor : and cases have occurred, 
in which lawless offenders of this class, with whom 
nothing could be done, have had other punishment 
mitigated into missionary banishment to this ill-fated 
island. If this be the case, and there is certainly no 
reason to doubt the authority upon which it is given, 
we see sufficient reason why the petty chiefs who have 



INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



41 



embraced Catholicism, according to travelers, still re* 
tain their heathen customs, and practice the grossest 
immoralities. 

Coopang, the Dutch settlement, stands on the south 
west extremity of the island. It is among those pla- 
ces in which the early chaplains exerted themselves 
with such vigor and' apparent success. During the 
eighteenth century it shared the common fate of the 
east, being forgotten by the unsympathizing mother at 
home. Left as sheep without a shepherd, many bapti- 
zed natives abandoned even the name of Christ, and re- 
verted to their favorite demonolatry. In the year 
1821, the first messenger under the new era of Chris- 
tian Missions, resumed the long suspended duties of 
the Gospel ministry in the place. Le Brun, the name 
of the missionary, was an excellent character. He 
was spared no longer than to prepare himself for use- 
fulness in his new sphere, and was then translated to a 
service of unmingled enjoyments, for which this very 
discipline had equally qualified him. Others caught 
his mantle, and followed in his luminous steps. It 
is a common complaint in the correspondence of the 
missionaries, that multitudes who have been received 
into the Christian church— probably descendants of 
the early converts — have never renounced their idola- 
trous habits. The unchristianized natives they des- 
cribe as slothful, apathetic, untrained to reflection, liv- 
ing and dying like brutes around them. They have 
no established forms of religion, but dread the power, 
and deprecate the fury of infernal spirits. This refers 
only to the tribes in the vicinity of the settlement, 
where the Malayan language enters into the admix- 



42 



INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



ture of their native tongue. As has been mentioned, 
those in the interior employ a number of languages, 
very distinct from the Malay, and live in the wildest 
state. I am not able to learn that any attempts have 
ever been made for their conversion.* 

A number of smaller islands in the surrounding 
seas, are occupied by the missionaries of the Nether- 
land's Society : among these is Rotti. situated a short 
distance south of Timor. In 1820 there were three 
churches completed, and others in progress, on this 
limited spot. Three hundred and sixty children were 
enjoying regular instruction, all of them the descend- 
ants of nominal Christains. The aboriginal inhabit- 
ants are more energetic in mind and body than the 
Malays, and the island yields a rich supply of rice and 
palm sugar.t 

East and north-east of Timor, one or two degrees 
from it, and each other, are the small islands of Letty, 
Moa, Kisser, and Roma. Each of them is a mission 
station, occupied by one or more missionaries. Some 
of them abound with inhabitants, who have a language 
of their own, and whose customs are entirely repug- 
nant to the principles of Christianity, which many pro- 
fess. The instructions of the missionaries are gene- 



* At the close of 1831, the Dutch reports gave an aggregate of seve- 
ral thousands of Christians upon the island. Whether they in- 
clude those whose heathen customs the missionaries deplore, we know 
not. In 1832, six missionaries arrived in the east, four of whom went 
to an institution upon Timor, designed for fitting European and native 
Christians for their work. One of them was appointed to the chap- 
laincy of the company, the others, it is hoped, w 7 ill penetrate beyond 
the maratime parts, which have already been explored. 

t Of the recent reinforcements to these islands, one or two mission- 
aries are instructed to occupy Rotti. 



INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO* 



43 



rally conveyed through the Malayan language, which 
it is said they are endeavoring to make the universal 
medium of intercourse, If it can be accomplish- 
ed without sacrificing the eternal interests of the pre- 
sent generation, the object is worthy of their strenu- 
ous efforts. It is calculated to cherish a spirit of 
benevolence among the natives, and it will yield the 
greatest facility of labor to all succeeding missiona- 
ries. One or two of them have acquired the native 
speech ; but thus far, no translations have been made, 
at least no books published, According to the report 
of one who visited the island of Letty in 1825, he 
found the school-master efficiently engaged in his du- 
ties, and many of the natives had been prepared 
through his instrumentality for baptism, whom he ad- 
mitted to the visible membership of the Christian 
church. A successor, who arrived at the island in 
1829, states that numbers of baptized Christians were 
both ignorant and addicted to all the vices of Paganism. 
That the same system of gathering multitudes indiscrim- 
inately within the pale of the church, should be practiced 
by some of the modern missionaries, is a source of la- 
mentation to their more judicious brethren, and to all 
who take an interest in their successful labors. The 
result is, as might be expected — some " weary them- 
selves for very vanity," and others are obliged to "la- 
bor in the very fire" most inconsiderately kindled 
against them. At Wetter, which has been mentioned 
as included within our prospect, the heathen are rep- 
resented as favorable to Christianity. The missionary 
who visited them in 1825, baptized numbers, and uni- 
ted many in Christian marriage. The island 

5 



44 



INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



had formerly been under the care of the chaplains ; but 
for the last forty years. Christian instruction had been 
almost entirely suspended. The consequences need 
not be detailed, when it is considered that little more 
than the name and rites of Christianity constituted the 
sum of their early knowledge. 

After leaving the Ombay passage, our course lay 
through the Banda sea, which takes its name from a 
small group of islands, situated two and a half decrees 
east of our track. Here, the Dutch have a missiona- 
ry, who under date of 1824; reports that he had been 
visiting those who professed Christianity from house 
to house. He was shocked at their ignorance and hea- 
thenism ; barring the difference of name, they could 
not be distinguished from the Mohammedans and hea- 
then around them. The drums of the soothsayers 
made a deeper impression upon them, than the truths 
of the Gospel. 

Such was the depravity of the great mass of adults, 
and such the example by which their children were 
seduced into all wickedness, that the missionary was 
constrained under the deep emotions of his soul, to ex- 
claim "Rivers of waters run down mine eyes, because 
they keep not thy law." Still, a few facts of some 
promise were noticed : there were those who could 
and did read the Bible ; the schools, though languish- 
ing were not closed, and a few of the converts main- 
tained a character worthy the religion they professed. 
In former days there were congregations upon a num- 
ber of these islands ; but the blight of death has pass- 
ed over them. 

At Great Banda there are twenty-four plantations, 



INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



45 



managed by as many native planters, who bear the 
name of Christ. 

Still farther to the east, nearly a south-east direc- 
tion from Banda, is a chain of islets, called by the 
Dutch. " the Keys," which extend to the Arroo group 
of the charts. The former are described as fertile 
spots, producing a variety of fruits, and peopled by a 
race of men, who have ever shown a peculiar mild- 
ness of disposition and hospitality towards strangers. 
Whether this benevolence is a genuine expression of 
soul, or assumed from motives of policy, has not been 
ascertained. The only ground of uncharitable suspi- 
cion rests upon their physical weakness, and destitu- 
tion or paucity of arms. The Arroo islands are ex- 
tremely valuable, and said to contain a population of 
about twenty thousand ; they abound in all the deli- 
cious fruits of the Moluccas, and swarm with poultry 
and birds, of the richest, rarest plumage. They con- 
tain a small band of professing Christians, with a large 
proportion of Mohammedans, and a still greater num- 
ber of heathen. From the reports of the missionaries 
in their vicinity, these islands hold out the most in- 
spiriting invitation to the servants of Christ; the field 
is large, and numbers would find delightful employ- 
ment in its culture. One relative advantage of the 
highest importance is, the proximity of these islands 
to New Guinea, with whose shores, there is no doubt 
a constant intercourse, and whose degraded millions 
might be approached through this point of access. 

Contrary winds and a temporary calm detained us 
two or three days in the Banda sea. 

On the 28th January, the large island of Booro was 



46 



INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



descriedj and the next morning we found ourselves 
passing, at the distance of a few miles from its south- 
eastern shore. Besides its other valuable productions, 
the island is the genial soil of the cajeput tree, whose 
well known oil is a principal article of export. It is 
virtually under the domination of the Dutch, though, 
with the exception of a foreign Resident, the inhabit- 
ants are governed by their own rajahs. The king of 
the country, and nine subordinate chiefs, by whom 
he is assisted in judicial matters, are Mohammedans, 
The inhabitants, whom the Dutch call Alfories, have 
not submitted to the yoke of Islamism, and it is said, 
are not allowed to embrace Christianity. Still the 
place is not entirely destitute of Christian instruction, 
A missionary is stationed here, who, under date of 
1825, writes that the island is divided into ten dis- 
tricts, and that there were about ninety Christians, and 
one hundred and forty, including children, who had 
been baptized. 

The state of religion among these few, differs in 
no respects from the corruption prevailing in the oth- 
er islands. The judgments of God exhibited in those 
sweeping scourges, cholera and famine, aroused their 
fears, and brought them for a time to a better state of 
mind. 

The aborigines are characterized by gentleness and 
timidity. Idleness, opium — smoking, and drunken- 
ness are their reigning vices ; dancing is their popular 
amusement. 

After leaving the Banda Sea, we passed through 
the straits of Manippa, which brought within our hori- 
zon a number of important islands. Amboyna. the 



INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



principal one, is distinguished among all the spice set- 
tlements under European control, for the extent and 
beauty of its capital, the strength of its fortifications, 
and the proportionately large number of its professing 
Christians. It contains a population of between forty 
and fifty thousand. Mr. Kam, the first missionary of 
the new era, who arrived in 1815, reports that he found 
twenty thousand native Christians, prepared by his 
predecessors, for attending the ordinances of the Gos- 
pel. The nature of this preparation is not stated, 
though the missionary probably includes all who had 
been received into the visible church, by its initiatory 
rite, with their descendants. He found many dis- 
tricts, whose inhabitants were formerly Christian, re- 
lapsed into Paganism. A terrifying earthquake fright- 
ened some of them back into the profession they had 
abandoned. Mr. Kam commenced his labors here 
and in the neighboring islands, with much zeal and 
energy. Prompted by a spirit which every missiona- 
ry should possess, he looked upon himself as a "debt- 
or to all," and consequently entered into every sphere 
where he thought his services might be useful. Much 
of his time was devoted to a visitation of those islands, 
where churches had been planted, or where there was 
an opening for the introduction of the Gospel. His 
journals show an entire devotedness to his Savior's 
kingdom, though from the many thousands he bapti- 
zed in his extensive and repeated circuits, we cannot 
but fear that his views on this subject were not the 
most judicious. 

Two institutions were established at Amboyna, for 
the preparation of schoolmasters,— one under a com- 

5* 



43 



INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



mittee of government officers, including the missiona- 
ry, who is the appointed chaplain — the other under 
the sole direction of Mr. Kam, and designed to pre- 
pare young men for less prominent, though equally 
destitute stations. These institutions, and epecially 
the latter, have been successful in their operations. 
Other means have been employed for the conversion 
of the heathen, with much visible effect. 

At Manippa, through the straits of which we sail- 
ed, there are many Mussulmans, and a few Christians. 
The missionaries report, that two villages had cast 
away their idols and embraced Christianity. 

We had the large and beautiful island of Ceram in 
sight a long time. Its lively verdure, its towering- 
mountains, its irregular and variegated surface, and 
especially its associated history, tended to render it an 
object of most interesting contemplation. Travelers 
dwell with rapture upon the enchantment of its scene- 
ry, and the exuberance and variety of its productions. 
The sago finds no soil so congenial to its rapid and 
perfect development as the well saturated bogs of 
Ceram. This valuable tree grows wild, not merely 
in scattering clumps, but in deep forests, supplying 
its indolent tribes with abundant provision, and con- 
siderable wealth. The waters teem with a variety of 
the finest fish, so that it has been said of the natives 
of this island, as of the birds of the air, " They sow 
not, neither do the reap, nor gather into barns," The 
inhabitants of the sea-coast are principally Malays : in 
the inland districts, the Alfories or aborigines, abound. 
The shocking Diak custom of destroying human life, 
by arts the most treacherous, without provocation, and 



INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



49 



merely to add human heads to the trophies of their 
cruelty, associates, in barbarity, if not in consanguinity, 
the inhabitants of Ceram with those of Borneo and 
Celebes. Demonolatry is the prevailing|superstition, 
and the infernal rites, and horrid imprecations employ- 
ed in binding themselves to a voluntary and perpetual 
slavery to the " Rulers of darkness/*' breathe the very 
spirit of hell. 

When Mr. Kam visited the place, after his arrival 
in these seas, he found that they had been destitute of 
the ordinances of religion, at least, of the advanta- 
ges of the regular ministrations, for the last twen- 
ty years. He passed through twelve districts, preach- 
ing and administering the sacraments of the Gos- 
pel. After his return, he received intelligence that 
two villages had demolished their pagan temples. 
But alas ! numbers of these stony ground hearers 
soon began to decline, so that the missionary felt him- 
self obliged to make them another visit. In some 
districts the instructions of the missionary were un- 
heeded. Many of the Christians did not even believe 
in a future state of existence. At Kaibobo, on Ceram, 
a missionary is stationed. He gives no favorable ac- 
count of the progress of the children in the schools, 
nor of the good example and discipline of their pa- 
rents at home. 

In a report of Mr. Kam for 1827, he speaks of more 
than six thousand church members, and upwards of 
two thousand children under instruction.* 

With the exception of Ternati, one of the Moluccas, 



* The discrepancy in the two statements may be easily reconciled, 
though we fear that the le-ast gratifying account is the most correct. 



50 



INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



situated not far from the north coast of Gilolo. we have 
gone over the principal stations under the Netherlands 
Missionary Society in this part of the Archipelago. 

Ternati, though small, has long maintained an im- 
portance above its neighbors. Its Sultan has ac- 
quired the sovereignty of many of the adjacent islands, 
having extended his dominions to parts of Celebes, and 
even to New Guinea. The missionary here has been 
taken into the service of the government, and though 
a man of excellent character, his health is too feeble to 
fulfil his duties among Christians: of course, he can 
attempt but little for the heathen. The situation is 
probably one of the most important for a missionary 
colony in these seas. 

Before we close this rapid survey of the numerous 
stations occupied by the Netherlands Society and open 
to their future exertions, a few facts merit our attention. 
The extent and fertility of many of the islands, 
the number of their inhabitants, their proximi- 
ty to others still more spacious and populous, render 
them highly important for missionary establishments j 
while the liberty enjoyed by Europeans of visiting the 
coast and traversing the interior of most of them, add- 
ed to the readiness with which the natives generally 
listen to their instructions, and conform by thousands 
to the external rites of Christianity, enhance their in- 
terest, and give them a bold prominence among- the 
most inviting spheres of Christian benevolence. 

To those acquaninted w T ith the history of these mis- 
sions, it may be thought strange that we do not dwell 
more in detail upon the numbers who have at differ- 
ent times renounced idolatry, and professed the reli- 



INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



51 



gion of Christ. Our only reason is, because the quali- 
fications for baptism, required by many of the mission- 
aries, differ so essentially from the views entertained 
by the majority who shall probably read this work, that 
numbers would convey no correct idea of the success 
of their labors. In islands, and districts of islands, 
occasionally visited by the missionaries, they inform 
us that although they had but a few opportunities for 
preaching, they were much occupied in admitting ap- 
plicants to the communion of the church, and admin- 
istering to them its most solemn sacraments. Had ail 
these places been supplied with native teachers, in 
whose piety and judgment entire confidence could 
be placed, this apparently hasty mode of procedure 
might have been admissible. But when we learn from 
their o wn accounts, that apostacy is very common, and 
that villages and whole districts frequently relapse in- 
to their former abominations, we must conclude that 
either the native teachers are unqualified for their 
duties, or disproportioned in numbers to their stations ; 
or that those admitted to the ordinances of the church 
are received on other grounds than the repentance and 
faith enjoined in the Scriptures. 

It is not intended that these plans are approved by 
all the present missionaries ; neither is it certain that 
they are pursued by the majority. A very few labor- 
ers of incorrect sentiments respecting the proper sub- 
jects of the sacraments, are quite sufficient to produce 
all the consequences we here deplore. 

One fact, which strikes us powerfully, and which 
may tend to explain in a measure, what we cannot ap- 
prove, is the paucity of laborers, Compared with most 



IISDUN ARCHIPELAGO. 



other societies, the one. whose field and operations we 
have been considering-, has done nobly : but its re- 
sources are too limited for the work to be performed. 
Hundreds of men. in the spirit and strength of their 
Savior, would find in these vernal islands, the most- 
animating employment, and no doubt produce the most 
desirable changes. 

After leaving the straits of Manippa. our course was 
nearly north-east, through Dampier straits into the Pa- 
cific. A multiplicity of unimportant islands, appear- 
ed and sunk in our horizon, as we glided gently along, 
until we emerged from these insular seas, and felt our 
gallant ship once more timing her movements to the 
regular and lengthened swells of the wide ocean. New 
Guinea, or the great Papua country, and Waygiou or 
Waijoo, between which we passed, remained in sight 
many hours. The mountains of the former appeared 
stupendous, and the distant coast resembled hills of 
different altitudes, and dimensions, rising separately 
from the ocean. It is rather extraordinary that though 
we have been for many days surrounded with human 
habitations, some of which, with their possessors, we 
approached near enough to discern, we have received 
no visitors, and perceived but one proa in motion. 

Waijoo contains one hundred thousand inhabit- 
ants. It is said that they trade to a considerable extent 
with the Chinese, and that the greater part of them 
speak the Chinese language. From the account? of 
travelers — though we have seen nothing of a recent 
date — we can find no reason why an intercourse might 
not be opened with them and a mission established 
upon their island. Independently of the claims of 



INDIAN ARCH I PEL AG 0« 



53 



its own population, its position is peculiarly favorable, 
both to communicate with home, and with the impor- 
tant islands in its vicinity. 

But it is to New Guinea that the eye turns with the 
deepest concern. This insular continent extends 
about twelve hundred miles in length, and from 
fifteen to three hundred and sixty in breadth. Navi- 
gators speak with rapture of the beauty of its coasts, 
and the astonishing beauty of its rich productions. 
Among the ornaments of its natural history is the far 
famed bird of paradise, of which ten or twelve species 
make it their favorite residence. It is inhabited by 
several millions of solus, who are sunk into deep intel- 
lectual ignorance and spiritual death. Many distinct 
tribes, exceedingly opposite to each other in appearance 
and habits, spread themselves through its coasts and 
interior. The great mass consist of negroes, of a hercu- 
lean frame, and jet black countenance, with prominent 
eyes, distended mouths, spreading noses, and curled 
hair projecting in an enormous bunch from the head, 
Some of them are cannibals of the worst character. 
Others are mild and obliging to strangers ; disposed to 
trade upon terms the most advantageous to the other 
party ; neither knowing the value of their own articles, 
nor the worthlessness of those they most admire, 
Though we are probably the first missionaries, who 
have ever gazed upon its shores, the wiser and more 
adventurous children of this world hesitate not to vis- 
it it whenever their object can be gained.* 



* The following facts were extracted from the journal of a captain, 
published in the Singapore Chronicle, who writes under date of 1830. 
They may be useful to some* At Dory of the charts he found a good 



54 



INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO, 



Thus we perceive from the catalogue of islands enu- 
merated. — and the list may be easily swelled, if we 
were to proceed a short distance to the east. — what a 
sphere of Christian benevolence lies in almost total 
neglect in these seas. It is. no doubt, judged by some 
advisable to defer missionary engagements, until com- 
merce shall open an access to these barbarous regions, 
and prepare the way of the gospel : but even if the 
character and conduct of traders had this general ten- 
dency, how long shall we wait 1 Had there been any 
strong inducements to commercial enterprise, the ad- 
vantages would not have been neglected until the pre- 
sent. And as it has been found that the influence of 
men from Christian countries in pursuit of wealth, is 
generally prejudicial to the extension of the religion, 
whose principles they fail to exemplify : it is no doubt 
favorable that such a preliminary barrier has not been 
reared against the introduction of the truth. 

The servants of Christ engaged in foreign commerce, 
might afford the most valuable aid. in hastening the 
conversion of these nations. Indeed, without their as- 



harbor. and the people very friendly. They gave him. missoy bark, 
rripang and tortoise shell, in exchange for iron, blue cloth, &c. At 
Myfordi. (Long Island of the charts,) the rajah spoke Malay, but was 
absent ; he afterwards met him and found him friendly. At Misori 
or Schoten island, the people are considered treacherous. At Paddy- 
doo.or Traitors Island, they are on the contrary exceedingly friendly, 
and as an expression of it. carried their boat when grounded, about 
two miles. At Korgering. or Jobie, a considerable island in the deep 
bay, the natives were also very friendly. At Ansoose. of! Jnbie. lati- 
tude two degrees south, there are a number of islands; the natives are 
not to be trusted. At Coordoo. ^Geebrinks. East Point of the charts) 
a small village on the east point of the great bay, their boats were seiz- 
ed with six men in them. Some of the men were killed in a savage 
manner. The bottom and east of the great bay is said to be inhabited 
by the worst description of cannibals. The principal trade is with the 
Chinese. 



tNDIAN A&CHIPELAHO. 



sistance, we scarcely know how any thing can be done 
for the present They might dispatch a ship on an 
exploring tour, to obtain more accurate information 
about the character and circumstances of the different 
tribes of natives, and to determine the most eligible 
sites for missions. The ship could probably defray 
her expenses by the same traffic, which others carry 
on, who have no such object in view. When the best 
localities are ascertained, and missionaries sent forth 
to occupy them, nothing further would be required for 
facilitating their work, but to furnish them with small 
vessels, capable of navigating these seas, and to favor 
theni with an annual visitor or two from home, to sup- 
ply them with necessities and comforts. 

With the blessing of God's Spirit upon their labors, 
which we believe would be quickly and amply bestow- 
ed, the missionaries would soon place themselves upon a 
permanent and advantageous footing, and probably re- 
pay to their commercial friends a rich reward for their 
assistance. Thus the gospel, by the light it sheds, and 
the diligence it commands, would prepare the way of 
trade, and the benefits that would accrue to different 
and widely distant nations, would be incalculable. 
Millions now below the brutes would emerge from 
their ignorance and degradation, into the light and 
life of rational and renovated beings. 

But lest the plan here proposed should be disappro- 
ved, or what amounts to the same, not acted upon, ano- 
ther may be suggested, in which the pecuniary sacri* 
fice or hazard is less. Those ships bound to Canton, 
and obliged like ourselves to make this eastern pas* 
«age, might attempt the prerequisite task of exploring, 

6 



INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO, 



and upon its completion, if the trade did not answer 
their expectations, might proceed to Canton, without 
incurring much risk, or losing much time. And thus 
one or two out-of-season ships could annually touch at 
any station selected, and by administering to the health 
and comfort of the missionaries, afford material service 
to the cause in which they are engaged. 

But whence the necessity of holding out a temporal 
reward, as an inducement to Christians, to discharge 
their duties ? What but the glory of the Redeemer, 
can be the object of commerce in the purposes of God. 
and what could more loudly proclaim this object, than 
the sanctification of many to Himself to whom He has 
intrusted the talent of such extensive usefulness ? 
■'•Surely the isles shall wait for me, and the ships of 
Tnrshish first, to bring thy sons from far/' 

If ships are to be employed in the benevolent plans 
of the Savior, who that understands his own honor, 
as well as duty, would hesitate to favor these purpo- 
ses, and thus identify himself and his possessions, 
with the instrumentality employed in the regeneration 
of a world. 

After leaving the straits of Dampier, the wind obli- 
ged us to stand off in nearly an easterly direction, 
On the 8th of February we descried the Pelew islands. 
The vigilant natives were as sharp-sighted as our- 
selves. Their distant abodes had scarcely spotted our 
horizon, before we perceived a number of sails, feath- 
ering the ocean, and advancing in our pursuit. One 
proa intersected our course and awaited our arrival. 
As we passed they attempted to gain the lee of the 
ship, but were disappointed. As quick as thought 



INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



57 



their sail was hoisted, and the effort renewed. The 
progress of the ship was checked — a rope was thrown 
them, which they caught, but the result was again 
unfortunate. Their crazy boat was drawn under the 
counter of the ship, and they were compelled to aban- 
don their hold. Discouraged and unnerved by this se- 
cond defeat, they remained a long time stationary and 
motionless : as though indulging the listlessness of 
disappointment, or endeavoring in vain, to re-excite 
their hopes and energies for another trial. 

Their proa was apparently the excavated trunk of 
a tree. Its breadth bore no proportion to its length. 
The sail was triangular : to the windward side was 
attached an out-rigger^ projecting about three feet. 
On this as many sat as were necessary to preserve the 
balance of the boat, while one was constantly employ- 
ed in discharging the water, received from every 
wave. 

The crew was composed of six persons of both sex- 
es. Some of them had huge pendants in their ears — 
all were perfectly denuded. The performance of their 
canoes and the skill and dexterity with which they 
manage them, are surprising. They come dancing over 
the waves like " fairy sprites,'*' and with a velocity, 
which it demands a stiff breeze and rough sea for a 
ship to equal. One or two of them continued in pur- 
suit of us, until their small islands were left below our 
horizon, and themselves shut in by the shades of the 
evening. 

The natives of this group were formerly represent- 
ed as the mildest and most benevolent specimens of 
unenlightened men, This character they have lately 



5S 



INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO, 



lost by attempts at violence, which prove that their 
previous kindness was neither natural, nor the result of 
principle. When they learned the uses of iron, it is 
said that they made a desperate effort to cut off a ship, 
and murder all its company, to secure the object of 
their cupidity. As it is u the determinate counsel"' of 
Jehovah to extend the scepter of his mercy over these 
benighted spots of the earth,, it becomes us to whom 
this instrumental work is committed to devise the most 
expeditious mode for its accomplishment. We know 
of no way in which missions could be planted and sus- 
tained in this and the neighboring islands, except 
through the services of an itinerant ship devoted to 
this purpose. An attempt to explore these regions, in 
native vessels, would be preposterous. It could not be 
done without the greatest waste of time and hazard of 
life. And if the best position were ascertained by this 
means, how could families be transported to their des- 
tination — how could they receive the supplies they 
would require ? A ship appears to me indispensable. No- 
thing 1 would more effectually restrain the barbaritv of 
the natives : nothing more powerfully secure their re- 
spect, than the annual visits of such a vessel. The rest 
of her time might be employed in the same work, along 
the coasts of Siam. Gambia. Cochin-China. China-Co- 
rea. Japan, and other places. 



CHAPTER II 



CHINA. 

February 17th, 1830. Latitude 22 degrees north, 
longitude 115 degrees, 18 minutes east. 

Early this morning we were called up to view the 
Chinese fishing boats, scattered in almost every direc- 
tion, around us. They had ventured beyond the 
sight of land, and were fishing in pairs, with a net 
trailing between them. These small boats are hu- 
man habitations, occupied by as many generations 
as are usually permitted to exist cotemporaneously. 
What a prison for intellectual beings, with perhaps no 
prospect of a change in this life, and without a know- 
ledge of the immortality in the next. 

It is said they are not allowed to trade with foreign 
vessels, and their exceeding shyness, and the govern- 
ment boats attending them, confirm the existence of 
such an interdict. Two hundred were counted at 
one time. 

18th. To-day we caught the first view of China, 
while sailing in a line with its coast. The distance 
was too great to define any thing, but the shadowy 
outline of its hills. 

We have passed the latitude of Formosa, which 
claims a notice, alike on account of its own inherent 

6* 



60 



CHINA, 



interest, and for the sad tale of missions, which its 
history unfolds. A chain of mountains, extending 
nearly north and south, forms a natural boundary be- 
tween its aboriginal inhabitants, and the Chinese. 
The eastern coast, in the possession of the latter, it 
is said by the old Dutch writers, merits the name 
by which it is known. The western division is in- 
habited by several tribes, among which is a negro 
race of immense size. In the early part of the sev- 
enteenth century, the Dutch introduced Christianity 
into this island. A number of chaplains successively 
engaged in the undertaking, who baptized multitudes, 
and gathered many congregations. Parts of the 
Scriptures were translated into the vernacular of the 
aborigines, which differs greatly from the language of 
the empire. These were sent to Amsterdam, with 
other Christian books, for publication ; but there is no 
evidence that they ever went through the press. Ac- 
cording to the account of the missionaries, this exten- 
sive field yielded with trifling care, and promised the 
most abundant fruits. But their prospects and pro- 
jects were soon defeated ; the island was captured by a 
pirate, who massacred some of the chaplains, destroy- 
ed Christianity, and re-established idolatry. This 
event occurred in 1661, since which period, the Chi- 
nese have spread themselves in numbers over its east- 
ern section ; at present, it is in a state of constant re- 
bellion, the resort of the disaffected toward the gov- 
ernment. 

19th. The dawn of this morning disclosed the 
bluff, barren peaks of the Ladrone, and neighboring 
islands, called by the Chinese the old ten thousand 



CHINA. 



61 



hills. Our approach was soon descried by the vigi- 
lant natives, and before sunrise, a tall, muscular, swar- 
thy man came on board, and offered himself as a pi- 
lot ; when informed that his services were not requi- 
red, and convinced from the ill success of his repeated 
applications, that money could not be earned, he as- 
sumed the less honorable office of a beggar. The 
same means were adopted by others who succeeded 
him in the course of the day, and tried all possible ex- 
pedients to obtain money or its value. 

From our visitors we received information of a va- 
riety of recent events, principally relating to foreign 
residents in Canton, some of which were fraught with 
painful interest. Many of them employed a broken 
English of rather ludicrous peculiarity ; in fact, an 
unknown tongue to the uninitiated, but sufficient to 
communicate ideas on ordinary topics, to those who 
had been educated in the same school. With one, 
whom the captain recognized, an agreement was soon 
made, and dispatches forwarded to Canton. The 
time to which he was limited, and on which his re- 
compense depended, was scarcely sufficient to allow 
the least interval of rest, although his countenance and 
conduct evinced that he considered ten dollars, the 
stipulated sum, an ample compensation. The dis- 
tance from the place he met us is probably eighty 
miles from Canton, and the risk of being detected by 
government officers, in a business interdicted by law, 
by no means inconsiderable. Between eight and nine 
in the evening, we reached the anchorage at Lintin. 
This entrance of the £ celestial regions? is far from 
interesting. The numerous islands are rough and 



62 



CHI2sA. 



desolate, and with the exception of a few spots near 
the sea, there is scarcely the trace of man or beast, or 
the appearance of vegetation to be discovered. 

20th. Our present anchorage is the depot of smug- 
glers, where the opium ships are moored, and whence 
this deathful drag, to the amount of many millions of 
dollars annually, is conveyed throughout the empire. 
Among the boats clandestinely engaged in the local 
traffic, are a number commissioned for the protection 
of lawful commerce, but which are as actively em- 
ployed against the interests of the government, as they 
would be in the maintenance of its laws, if with equal 
facility, and more gain, the revenue officers who have 
them in charge could mini the duties of their ap- 
pointment, 

This afternoon, for the first time in one hundred 
and twenty-seven days, we touched our feet upon 
solid ground, and though on a heathen shore, far from 
our native land, felt a gratification peculiar to the 
wave-tossed prisoner, when released from his tedious 
confinement. It was the island of Lintin. the resort 
and habitation of fishermen, and the possession of a 
few families, who cultivate the ground, and supply the 
shipping with provisions. To those who have been 
accustomed to attach value to industry, the striking 
disproportion between labor and its fruits will not fail 
to arrest the attention. Almost every foot of land 
which had been leveled by nature, or could be redu- 
ced by art. was in cultivation, while the adjacent 
springs and ponds of water were all submitted to the 
same tax. 

We attempted to enter a small village, but an old 



CHINA. 



63 



man came out, and with a courteous air of authority 
forbade us. In some of the huts near the beach, they 
were engaged at their meals, and with mouths filled 
to distension, invited us to stop and take "a litte chou 
chou*' with them. To their rice they impart a flavor 
by a small portion of meat, fish, or vegetables. These 
condiments are generally placed in appropriate vessels 
on the table, if they have one, or on the ground, in the 
midst of the circle, as in the present instance. Each 
one is supplied with a bowl of rice, to which he con- 
veys the more piquant articles, by means of two small 
sticks held between the thumb and fingers of the right 
hand; and placing the bowl in close vicinity, often in 
contact with the mouth, he hastily shovels into it as 
much of the rice as his cheeks can well contain. 

The fact in which we are the most interested, and 
one which we cannot consider, without reflecting up- 
on the ignorance and apathy of the Christian world, 
is the unrestricted intercourse we have with multi- 
tudes, who welcome us to their huts on shore, and 
come around us in the ship, with all the ingenuous- 
ness and docility of children. If we knew their lan- 
guage, there is not the least reason why we might not 
converse with them as freely on religious subjects, as 
on all others. 

26th. As the ship was about to remain at Lintin for 
several days, we engaged a native boat to carry us to 
Macao, about eighteen miles, and started after break- 
fast on Monday. The intervening islands and distant 
hills present the same sterile, volcanic aspect, and 
scarcely an object of the least interest is seen until the 
bay and town of Macao open in delightful contrast to 



64 



CHINA. 



the view. These are entirely concealed by a project- 
ing point of land, until you approach their immediate 
vicinity. After fruitless conjectures where a Euro- 
pean town of the least size could be situated amid the 
scenes of desolation and ruggedness which appear from 
the level of the water, the change is sudden and unex- 
pected. A long line of white European buildings, 
winding with a gentle sweep, around the crescent 
shore of the bay. large military and ecclesiastical es- 
tablishments crowning the summits of the hills, with 
a motley group of chapels, and houses of almost every 
size and construction, burst upon the view at once, 
and hold the mind, for a moment, in delightful sur- 
prise. 

Macao stands upon an island, or rather the peninsu- 
la of an island, with a beautiful bay in front, and a 
sheet of water in the rear. The irregular surface of 
the town, changing its appearance with every new 
position, encompassed with hill and dale, scattered 
villages, and cultivated fields, islets and bays, with an 
extensive and diversified water scenery, all beheld 
from the adjacent hills, are the admiration of its vis- 
itors. 

Variety is the most remarkable feature in the build- 
ings. The houses occupied by foreign merchants are 
generally spacious and well adapted to the climate. 
The public edifices, and especially the churches, 
though some of them are large, and the latter nume- 
rous, display nothing peculiar in exterior or furni- 
ture. Much of the town is in possession of the Chi- 
nese, and consists, according to their taste, of low, con- 
fined hutSj and narrow, filthy streets. According to a 



65 



recent estimate, the number of inhabitants is about fif- 
ty thousand, of whom, forty-five thousand are said to 
be Chinese ; others suppose the whole amount does 
not exceed thirty, or thirty-five thousand. 

Macao is the residence of those ladies who have 
accompanied their husbands to China, and the sum- 
mer retreat of the majority of foreigners engaged in 
commerce at Canton. The number of English fami- 
lies, including one American, does not exceed a dozen, 

One of the principal objects of curiosity, to the trav- 
eler, is the grotto of Camoens, where the poet compo- 
posed his celebrated Luciad. It is inclosed within 
the pleasure grounds of a private residence, and com- 
bines the advantages of fine scenery, refreshing air, 
and undisturbed retirement. It is formed of three 
large rocks, two of which are upright, and support 
the third, The place where lie is reported to have sat, 
is a small cavity in one of the rocks, which at present 
is occupied by a representative of less perishable ma- 
terial. With a stern contour, a martial air, and the 
want of the eye, lost in the Sarcaren wars, there is ve- 
ry little to remind one of the poet, whose charming 
verse, according to his countrymen, could scarcely be 
surpassed. 

The history of Macao is involved in considerable 
uncertainty ; but those points of inquiry most interest- 
ing to the Christian community, are by no means ob- 
scure. 

The Portuguese say that they received it from the 
emperor about the middle of the sixteenth century, 
as an expression of gratitude for expelling a band of 
pirates, who, making it their head -quarters, infested 



66 



the coast and blocked up the port of Canton. The 
Chinese insist upon it. that the place was gradually 
usurped by the Portuguese, in their previous rage 
for foreign possessions, and recent researches show, 
that if the former are correct, they cannot produce the 
emperor's grant to prove it, In whatever way posses- 
sion was gained, the Jesuits and others immediately 
took the colony under their spiritual charge, erected 
churches, founded a monastery and college, and open- 
ed a communication with different parts of the interi- 
or. If the purity of their faith had harmonized with 
the force of their misguided zeal, there is every reason 
to believe this Pagan empire would have assumed a 
different aspect. long before the present. The truth 
would probably have awakened earlier persecution j 
but it would neither have provoked it by anti-ehris* 
tian measures, nor suffered so severely from its deadli- 
est rage. 

It is difficult to determine to what extent the forces 
of Catholicism, have been weakened in China. Since 
the general expulsion of the European priests, num- 
bers have ventured, and are continually venturing in- 
to the interior, although the)' have generally been con- 
veyed to their charge in a clandestine manner. Some 
have been sent from Macao to Pekin. to supply the 
board of mathematicians : but the emperor's request, 
and their avowed object in its compliance, were equal- 
ly distinct from all ecclesiastical interference. Very 
recently one of them was transferred from Pekin to 
Canton, with considerable pomp, and with the inten- 
tion of returning to Europe. It was said by many> 
to be a plan of the emperor to get him respectably out 



CHINA* 



of. the country; others maintain that he requested per- 
mission to visit his aged mother before her death. 
However this may be, I am informed that at present, 
there is but one Roman Catholic priest employed in 
the emperor's service, and for the last twenty years no 
others have been invited.'' 

In the college of St, Joseph, formerly in the hands 
of the Jesuits, there is a number of Chinese youth, ed- 
ucated at the expense of the Portuguese government, 
with an exclusive reference to the priesthood. These 
are ordained as missionaries for the interior; other na- 
tives are received and instructed at their own charges, 
Beside this institution, there are about twelve church- 
es, and forty priests, for the limited population, pro- 
fessing the Catholic faith. 

Our attention was frequently arrested by flocks of 
women, visiting the different temples, and we were 
constrained to believe the season one of peculiar sanc- 
tity, or the place greatly given to superstition. Whe- 
ther the first conjecture was correct or not, the narra- 
tion of undisguised facts left no grounds to doubt the 
other. The patron saint, or rather tutelar deity of the 
place is St. Antonio, Having been skilled in the use 



* The following estimate of the Catholic forces was obtained from 
one of their most credible priests, by a professed friend of both of us. 
Connected with the 

French mission, are two bishops, four or five European misiona- 
ries, thirty native missionaries, and fifty-one thousand converts. ■ 

Portuguese mission, one bishop, one European missionary, twen* 
nine native missionaries, and eighty thousand converts. At Macao 
they have two seminaries, eight European missionaries, and one 
thousand converts, 

Italian mission, four European missionaries, thirty thousand 
converts. 

Spanish mission, one bishop, two European missionaries^ and 
thirty-five thousand converts. 



m 



of " carnal weapons/' in the early part of his career, 
he is exceedingly popular among the military, and 
represented as a valuable assistant in war. When the 
Dutch attacked the place, it is said by many, that he 
appeared in the air, and routed the invaders ; others 
ascribe the victory to the timely aid of John the Bap- 
tist, the battle having occurred upon his day. The 
Portuguese government allow St. Antonio the pay of 
captain, and honor him with, or require from him in 
return, an annual feast of thirteen days' continuance. 
According to my informant, who is one of their num- 
ber, and has frequently participated in the festivities 
of the season, they suppose it by no means inconsis- 
tent with the pleasure of the saint to indulge in ex- 
cesses, which set at defiance all the laws of tempe- 
rance, and bring their religion in discredit among 
their heathen neighbors. It is difficult to con- 
ceive how grosser ideas of idolatry could exist, than 
those which prompt some of the acts of their devotion 
to this deified hero. They are not satisfied with 
- bowing down before the graven image but not ad- 
mitting the very heathen's distinction, I should say 
his professed distinction between the deity and his 
representation, they carry the figure in procession, 
with military pomp, to make an annual visit to the 
image of St. Francis, presiding at another church. 

To the mind of one, who feels an interest in the 
conversion of the world, it is a painful circumstance, 
that the only spot under European control, in the 
whole empire of China, should exhibit to the heathen 
the most gross and absurd notions of that holy reli- 
gion, whose name they attach to their worse than Pa- 



CHINA. 



69 



gaii abominations. Macao and Manilla, on the island 
of Luzon, which are among the most advantageous 
freign posts for Chinese missions, are subject to a 
power, and exert an influence which have the double 
tendency of keeping the true light from entering, and 
of prejudicing the minds of the heathen against it, 
should it penetrate. The same anti-christian influ- 
ence prevails in the Chinese island of Hainan, where 
it is said the Catholic religion is still quite prevalent ; 
and in many of the adjacent kingdoms on the west 
and south, where the language is best known, and the 
intercourse with China most frequent. 

Japan, on the east, has been arrayed as powerfully 
against the religion of the cross, as satanic malice 
could desire; so that by means of this spurious faith, 
the great enemy of God and man has attempted to 
raise impregnable barriers against the introducticn of 
the gospel into China. But how vain the policy and 
forces of hell, though intimidating to the faithless mind 
of man, to resist the power and wisdom which shall 
soon be brought to bear against them. Every diffi- 
culty of the kind should but simplify and strengthen 
our faith in that word, which is pledged to destroy 
them all, and the striking and speedy accomplishment 
of which, shall doubtless be a subject of admiration 
and gratitude, to all the followers of Christ. 

In the town and immediate vicinity of Macao, arc 
several Chinese temples, to which a few priests of the 
Budha sect are attached. The most remarkable one 
is situated on the south-west side of the town. It 
consists of a number of small buildings on the acclivi- 
ty of a steep hill^ grouped in a fanciful manner, with 



70 



CHINA, 



large upright rocks and overhanging trees. The 
rough lines of nature, and the polish of art, are blend- 
ed in striking contrast,, in this grotesque form of pagan 
superstition. The principal part of the time unoccu- 
pied in our excursions, was agreeably passed in the 
family of Dr. Morrison, who had left the place but a 
few days before our arrival. We were happy to learn, 
that the Doctor had the recent gratification of bapti- 
zing another native convert. The English Factory, 
during their semi-annual residence here, are allowed 
to have service performed by their chaplain, and Dr, 
Morrison is not prevented from holding a religious ex- 
ercise, every Sabbath, in his own dwelling. 

On the morning of the 28th, we left this pleasant re- 
treat, and, wafted by a fresh breeze, reached the ship 
about noon. As each had expected that some of the 
rest would cater for our breakfast, we were obliged to 
satisfy a craving appetite upon the boiled rice and 
salted cabbage of our temperate boatmen. On our ar- 
rival, we found that a small European vessel had been 
sent for us, from Canton, but owing to the uncertain- 
ty of our return, had sailed. The event left us to the 
choice of remaining a number of days in the ship, in 
this cold and rainy season, or of venturing in a native 
"fast boat, :/ * against one of their barbarous prohibitions. 
We soon decided on the latter alternative, and left the 
ship in the twilight of evening. We were obliged to 
pass the night in an apartment fitted up for the lodg- 
ings of the boatmen, and the residence of their gods. 
A group of small gilded images, seated in a shrine, 
decorated with colored paper, occupied one corner, 
and received the homage of the crew. Before the 



n 



shrine an incense stick of fragrant sandal-wood was 
kept lighted, and a lamp burning. The cabin, in 
which the idols, part of the crew, ourselves, and bag- 
gage were stowed, was so low that we could barely 
sit upright. After changing position as often as an 
opposing wind changed the course of our boat, we 
found ourselves at day-break but a very short distance 
above the last fort. This was a point of safety, which 
the men had toiled hard and silently to gain, before the 
light should expose us to those on shore. During 
the morning, though they scrutinized with a good 
glass every object of suspicion, they appeared to place 
so much dependence upon the performance of their 
brigantine, and their own muscular assistance, as to 
dismiss all apprehension, and labor with much cheerful- 
ness. Indeed, as far as we are capable of judging, 
liveliness is a prominent characteristic of the Chinese. 

Low lands, appropriated to the culture of rice, and 
ranges of hills, with no other verdure than a few scat- 
tering trees, made up the scenery, between our position 
at day-break, and Whampoa. A few temples appear- 
ed in different parts of the low lands, and one of com- 
manding elevation crowned the summit of a high hill. 

About the middle of the afternoon, we reached 
Whampoa, the principal anchorage for vessels enga- 
ged in lawful traffic with China. A recent difficulty 
with the government had detained the stately ships 
employed in the service of the East India Company ; 
and their yearly fleet, consisting of twenty vessels, or 
upwards, with those of other nations employed in the 
China trade, generally of the largest class, presented 
an array of naval magnificence unequaled in any 

7* 



CKIKA, 



other port. The number of seamen engaged in the 
company's service, and attached to the shipping in the 
harbor, varies but little from three thousand. What 
a congregation might be gathered from those who 
speak the English language, if the walls of national 
and ecclesiastical separation were entirely demolished, 
and if the custom of keeping holy the Lord's day, 
were universally observed. 

The distance between Whampoa and Canton is 
about twelve miles. A strong opposing current kept 
us four hours on the way, and made it nine in the 
evening, before we arrived. For some time after we 
started, the light of day disclosed every remarkable 
object on land and water. Among the former are 
large pagodas, towering in the air, and darkened and 
mouldering with age. Two of them are situated on 
small eminences, " high places," compared with the 
surrounding country, and like the hill-capped one be- 
low, they probably appear to a heathen's mind as the 
presiding genii of the place. They are nine stories 
in hight, of an octagonal form, with doors or niches 
on each side of every story, and gradually diminish- 
ing in circumference to the top. Their sides and 
summits are partially covered with shrubs and herbage, 
springing from beds of earth, which it must have re- 
quired ages to collect, and consolidate. 

These towers were erected by the decendants of 
Dchingis Khan, in the Yuen dynasty, during the thir- 
teenth and fourteenth centuries. It was a prevalent 
superstition of the times, that they were effectual in 
repressing demoniacal and noxious influences in the 



CHINA. 



73 



SUrroundiiig country, and that their efficacy was 
graduated by their hight. 

As might be expected, there is a great variety in 
the structure and internal arrangements of their boats. 
Those intended for sea are too primitive and clumsy 
to be any thing but the products of the earliest and 
dullest invention. The bow and stern arise to a great 
elevation, and present such a dangerous surface to 
the wind, as to account for the numerous losses sus- 
tained every year. European improvements are dis- 
allowed. Some of the small government barges dis- 
play a degree of taste and skill in construction, which 
form a strong contrast to the mass around them. The 
consequence and curse of spiritual ignorance, alas, too 
common where that ignorance is wilful, are apparent 
in many of the boats decorated and furnished to decoy 
u the simple" and lead him " into paths inclining un- 
to the dead." 

We had scarcely gained half our distance, when 

* * * * " Sorrowing we beheld 

The night come on, but soon did night display 
More wonders than it veiled." 

As the shades of evening darkened around us, great 
numbers of lamps broke through the gloom, and ap- 
peared either ranged in rows, almost as far as the eye 
could reach, or changing their position, and varying 
the general aspect, according to the different directions 
of the moving vessels. The scene was more like 
magic, than reality, and calculated to awaken ideas, 
or call up visions, which seldom visit collected minds 
in wakeful hours. As w*e approached the city, our 
progress became more interrupted by the crowds of 



74 



CHINA, 



boats, and when we arrived within a short distance of 
the landing place, such was their density that the men 
were obliged to exchange their oars for short paddles, 
and work their way through whatever opening they 
could find or form. 

On Thursday. February. 25th. 1830. we reached 
our ultimate destination, and were most kindly receiv- 
ed by C. N« Talbot, Esq.. the consular agent.* whose 
father and brother had been our fellow passengers, 
and to whose hospitality we were commended by our 
friends in America. Upon learning our arrival, we 
were visited by Dr. Morrison, who, as might be ex- 
pected, welcomed fellow missionaries into this long 
neglected field with no ordinary joy. A career of 
more than two and twenty year's labor, under the 
many embarrassments and trials, which were experi- 
enced, especially at first — without the permanent as- 
sistance of a single companion — and particularly after 
the sentence of death begins to be felt in a body shat- 
tered by toil and anxieties, might be supposed a suffi- 
cient preparative to the welcome reception of those 
whose avowed object is the same, and who are ex- 
pected to find their highest interest in its promotion. 
From many of the residents, and especially from those 
of our own countrymen, to whom we had letters, we 
soon enjoyed all those polite and kind attentions 
which are calculated to reconcile a stranger to an 
abode in foreign parts. 



* It is but justice to mention that myself and companion spent all 
our time in this house, and received every possible facility for the 
prosecution of our duties with the utmost readiness, and without the 
least expense. 



! 



CHAPTER III. 



CHINA CANTON AND ITS VICINITY. 

It may be acceptable to the reader, to interrupt the 
chain of events, as they occurred in chronological or- 
der, and present at the commencement a picture of 
Canton, and its vicinity. 

The city stands upon the north bank of the Choo- 
keang or Pearl river, nearly eighty miles from the sea, 
Its site is almost a perfect level ; it is bounded in the 
rear by a range of naked, uninteresting hills. Inclu- 
ding the river and neighborhood, the population has 
been estimated at from a million to fifteen hundred 
thousand. The city itself is surrounded by walls, 
within which the stranger is not allowed to enter: 
the suburbs or un walled town, probably of equal extent 
and populousness, is accessible to foreigners. There 
is nothing in the locality of the place, the arrange- 
ment of its streets, or the style of its buildings, cal- 
culated to call forth the admiration of the visitor. 
The scene, it is true, affords abundant interest to the 
stranger ; but it is the exclusive interest of novelty, 
and soon leaves the mind without an agreeable recol- 
lection. The houses are generally low, narrow, and 
exceedingly compact. Some of the factories or hongs T 
especially those occupied by the tea-merchants, are 



76 



CHINA. 



immensely spacious, and contain a vast number of 
compartments ; but you are obliged to enter them be- 
fore you can determine their locality, as there is no- 
thing in external appearance to distinguish them from 
the dense mass of buildings with which they are en- 
vironed. 

The width of the streets varies from about fifteen 
to three feet, measuring from house to house, and the 
medium proportion of the city would probably not ex- 
ceed eight feet. In passing through even the business 
districts, I have frequently extended my arms, and 
reached the opposite houses. The principal streets 
are occupied by merchants and mechanics, and their 
shops are so constructed as to open in front, and ex- 
pose their contents to the observation of the passenger. 
Boards, with large painted or gilded characters, in- 
tended as signs, are placed before each door, and, 
facing the direction of the street, constitute its most 
ornamental objects. The natives of Canton can fur- 
nish you with the names of more than 600 streets in 
the city. These are principally short and. crooked, 
although some of them extend to a great length. 
They are all flagged with stone, chiefly granite. 

Trades are generally found in close vicinity. The 
different classes of mechanics bind themselves to cer- 
tain conventional regulations, and each party has a 
public hall of meeting for consultation, feasting, and 
dramatic amusements. In the manufactories of the 
city about 17,000 persons, including women and chil- 
dren, are employed in weaving silks ; 50,000 are or- 
dinarily occupied in the manufacture of cloth, and up- 
wards of 4000 in making shoes. The number of 



CHINA, 



77 



licensed barbers is between 7 and 8000. There are 
about 2000 persons who obtain a livelihood from the 
practice of medicine. And yet it is thought by a wri- 
ter in the Chinese Repository, that this large number 
includes only a fourth part of the mechanics and 
quacks of Canton. Those articles most saleable to 
foreigners, are brought to the streets adjacent the fac- 
tories. It is a matter of at least amusing interest, to 
examine the heterogeneous contents of many of these 
shops, and no less so, to find that the spirit of the pro- 
prietor is still more accommodating than his well 
stored house. If your search is not rewarded with 
the required article, you have only to inquire, and if 
attainable any where, or by any means, within your 
specified conditions, you have entered the right shop 
and need proceed no farther, 

Economy of room ? to the exclusion of comfort, con- 
venience or cleanliness, appears the sole object in the 
lanes, where the women and children are kenneled, 
This is the only specimen of domestic life within the 
allowed range of the foreigner, and it is said that the 
families of persons of considerable wealth are obliged 
to exist under these circumstances. It requires a de- 
gree of courage and perseverance to thread the mazes 
of some of these alleys, and emerge into air and space, 
Elbows and angles, of almost every name, formed by 
the blind corners of buildings, oppose the progress of 
the adventurer, and if he dare proceed, perplex him 
with their multiplicity. At the corners of the streets 
are wickets, which can be readily closed, and are 
well calculated to separate a rabble or confine a thief. 
These are shut at night, and guarded by watchmen. 



CHINA, 



Notwithstanding the limited space between the 
houses, the passage-way of the streets is in many places 
still more straightened by the stands of butchers, fish- 
mongers, fruiterers, hucksters, mechanics, quacks, and 
often by jugglers, story-tellers, and gamblers, with 
their attendants. As the articles exposed for sale in 
the streets are chiefly adapted to the necessities of the 
day, the extreme, to which the principle of accommo- 
dation is carried, furnishes a criterion of the pecunia- 
ry circmstances of the mass of the people. Poultry 
and fish are dissected into very minute portions. A 
quarter of a fowl, the head and neck, and frequently 
the entrails alone, are all to which their ability ex- 
tends, This of course is the luxury, and designed 
merely to give a relish to their ordinary and less ex- 
travagant fare. Vegetables, from their cheapness, are 
so indispensable to the daily support of the commu- 
nity, that they are exposed for sale in the streets in 
the greatest profusion. Pumpkins, melons of various 
kinds, cucumbers, carrots, asparagus, gourds, squash- 
es, tomatoes, egg-plants, okers, and winter-cherry, be- 
sides many species of leguminous and cruciferous 
plants, are extensively cultivated in China. But the 
display of teas in the shops is the most amusing, 
The Chinese, as is known, universally drink the black 
teas. These are sold, not simply according to their* 
qualities, but according to the strength, which re- 
mains, after their virtues have been partially and of- 
ten principally extracted by less indigent purchasers, 

Fruit abounds in Canton. Indeed, those kinds in- 
digenous to temperate regions are of an inferior quali- 
ty, but the tropical varieties arrive at a high perfec* 



tiofy and a few species are common, which are desig- 
nated by Chinese names, and probably peculiar to the 
empire. Among the fruits are oranges in the greatest 
variety and of the best qualities, lemons, shaddocks, 
pomegranates, grapes, peas, peaches, plums, ananas 5 
bananas, mangoes, papaws, le-che, long-guen, or-lams, 
diospyrus, loquat, long-hok 5 hwang-pe, carambolas, 
custard apples, pine apples, citrons, figs, guavas, and 
olives. Chesnuts, walnuts, filberts, pignuts, almonds^ 
and dates, are also common in the markets. 

Beside the vigilance and skill required in naviga- 
ting this channel, so narrowed and obstructed by the 
numerous articles referred to, it is necessary to com- 
fort and cleanliness, to catch the warnings, and watch 
the motions of the porters, who carry all moveable bo- 
dies upon their shoulders, and who constitute no in- 
considerable portion of the moving multitude. Their 
burden is suspended to the ends oj center of bamboos, 
according to its separability and weight, and trans- 
ferred, however bulky and ponderous, to any distance, 
with much dispatch. 

Such is the number of these laborers, that their 
voices are constantly ringing in your ears, and such 
is the throng which opposes them, that their pro- 
gress depends almost as much on their lungs as their 
muscles. 

One class, called by the Chinese, " horses without 
tails," address you in a more authoritative tone. 
These are the bearers of men of distinction and 
wealth, who generally appear abroad in sedan chairs, 
and often take up so much of the small streets with 

8 



§0 



CHINA, 



their vehicles, as to leave but a dangerous space be* 
tween them and the houses. 

Among the objects most calculated to attract the 
attention and arouse the sympathies of the Christian - 
are the indices of their moral debasement. Their 
temples are numerous, their gods without number. 
One or more idols are seated in state, in every tem- 
ple. while others, of probably inferior dignity and of- 
fice, are standing near. Some of these are frightful 
looking figures : all are gross in form, answering to 
their notions of bodily elegance, or rather of bodily 
comfort, which appears to a Chinaman, of higher im- 
portance. The structure of the temple, as well as 
the number and arrangement of the images, depends 
upon the tenets of the sect to which they belong. 

The three leading sects in China are known, in the 
Mandarin dialect, by the marries of Jeo. Fuh. Taou- 
i. e.. the Confucians. Buddhists, and the Taou. or 
Alchymic sect, "the mystics of the heathen world in 
China." 

The first and last originated in China, the other 
was introduced from India, soon after the Christian 
era. and. principally by means of the circulation of 
tracts, has become the most prevalent superstition in 
the empire. In the year of our Lord 65. the Empe- 
ror Ming-te sent a deputation to India and invited the 
first priests of Budha to China. The Chinese histo- 
rians affirm that a dream informing him that the 
-holy one" was born in the west, is the reason, which 
induced him to send for disciples of this new faith. 
In one of the Chinese classic odes there was a pas- 
sage which spoke, though in indefinite terms, of some 



CHINA* 



it 



such event. This was immediately quoted as corrob- 
orating the Emperor's dream. Buddhism was thus 
introduced into China, under the most auspicious cir- 
cumstances ; the priests were received with open arms 
by the court, and found an ample and open field in 
which to propagate their doctrines. It is remarkable 
that this event should have occurred so near the birth 
of the " holy-one." if he were not the object of their 
search. The Buddhists and Taou sect inculcate fu- 
ture rewards and punishments, decking the former in 
all the charms of sensuality and sloth, and represent- 
ing the latter by every horrid combination of bodily 
torture. 

Notwithstanding all the admiration heaped upon 
Confucius and his system, by ignorance in the empire 
and infidelity in more enlightened parts, that philoso- 
pher confessed that he " knew but little about the 
gods, and therefore preferred saying nothing on the 
subject." Respecting the immortality of the soul, and 
its future retribution, he advances not a sentiment. 
The common opinion of his followers is, that virtue is 
rewarded and vice punished in the individuals or in 
their posterity only on earth. They speak of the im- 
mortal principle, as " annihilated,' 7 il melted," " scatter- 
ed," at death. 

Of that class of men whom the Chinese denomi- 
nate sages, and of whom Confucius is considered the 
^chief, — this philosopher has expressed himself in the 
following eulogistic strains : " Perfection or sincerity 
is the way to heaven. To aim at it is the duty of 
man. The sincere hit the due medium without ef- 
fort, --obtain it without thought, — and practice it spo&- 



92 



taneously. Such are the sages. It is only the man 
possessing the virtues of the sages, who can perfect 
his own nature. He who can perfect his own nature, 
can perfect the nature of other men ; he who can per- 
fect the nature of other men, can perfect the nature of 
things ; he who can perfect the nature of things, can 
assist heaven and earth in producing and nourishing 
things. When this is the case, he is united with 
heaven and earth so as to form a trinity. To be uni- 
ted with heaven and earth, means to stand equal with 
heaven and earth. These are the actions of the man 
who is by nature perfect, and who needs not acquire 
perfection by study."' Such sentiments afford a strik- 
ing comment on the confession of Confucius, that he 
knew but little of the gods. They forcibly illustrate 
the principle of all irreligion. To degrade Jehovah 
until he loses his supremacy and is confounded with 
his creation, or to exalt man until he can claim equali- 
ty with his God, is the cause and tendency of every 
unchristian and anti-christian system in the world. 

From one of the native books, it appears there are 
in China upwards of one thousand five hundred and 
sixty temples dedicated to Confucius. About sixty- 
two thousand victims, bullocks, pigs, sheep, deer, are 
annually sacrificed, and twenty-seven thousand six 
hundred pieces of silk offered to the manes of the 
sage. This is the wisdom of the learned heathen. 
who generally teach that " death is annihilation/' and 
who sometimes affirm that there is neither " God, an- 
gels, nor spirits." To whom, to what do they present 
these offerings ? Like many in Christian lands, these 
very persons show the insincerity of their professions 



CHINA. 



m 



in the prospect of death. Then the priests of Budha* 
whom they despise and ridicule in health, are called 
in to give the mind some support under its dread, if 
not its consciousness of immortalitjr. 

Beside the numerous temples in the city, small im- 
ages, answering to their notions of district gods, are 
placed in the corner of the streets, which receive the 
homage of the neighborhood. Not satisfied with 
these, every house has its family altar, either before 
the door or in the principal room, frequently in both 
places. Those in front of the house are generally 
small alcoves in a projecting platform, furnished with 
a few idols, or more commonly with the Chinese writ- 
ten character, signifying God, or superior being. As 
you walk out in the evening, the fumes of sandal- 
wood, of which their incense stick is made, accost the 
senses in every direction, and their light affords a sub- 
stitute for dim lamps in these narrow streets. These, 
with a few wax tapers, and one or two unmeaning 
bows of the person who prepares them, are the daily 
offerings made to the images of China. 

The popular religion of China, if definable at all by 
limits or language, is probably made up of a combina- 
tion of tenets held by the different sects in the empire, 
with a mixture of notions and customs, which neither 
system originated, but which the votaries of each prac- 
tice. Among these customs, are sacrificing to the 
dead, and burning gold and silver paper, on religious 
cccasions. If there be anything, which to their minds 
appears the most sacred of all observances, it is the 



* There are no priests attached to this sect. 

8* 



CHINA. 



former, if not both of these customs. One of their' 
moral works enjoins the following practice: 

" While (parents are) alive, on going out of doors, 
inform them ; on returning, show them your face. 
When dead, also when going abroad, mention it, (be- 
fore the tablet which they set up in every house, at the 
decease of parents and relatives,) when you return, 
keep a feast before them ; serve them when dead, just 
as when alive.'' 

The observance of the fifteenth day of the moon 
and of its full, is almost universal. With a people fond 
of sloth and addicted to sensuality, it is not to be won- 
dered at, that feast days should be popular, and 
their frequent recurrence welcome to those who 
have the means of providing for them. Among the 
most prevalent of their doctrines, is the Buddhistic no- 
tion of transmigration, which hangs " in terrorem" over 
the more sedate and thinking class of the nation. Ac- 
cording to the excellent Dr. Milne/ " When we be- 
hold the best of the rulers of China, and the most en- 
lightened of her sages, (e. g. Confucius.) worshiping 
any god, or no god at all, just as suited time, place, and 
the taste of the age, what shall we think of their hearts, 
virtues, and productions? Can we suppose those sys- 
tems capable of directing the bulk of the people to 
God, which left their authors to worship the heavens, 
and the earth, mountains and rivers, the gods of the 
kitchen and the spirits of the dead ?" " The current 
of Chinese idolatry widened and deepened as it flow- 
ed, by the accession of tributary streams from West- 



* In his retrospect of the first ten years of the Protestant mission 
to China, p. 28. 



China. 



85 



ern and Eastern Tartary. Most of the forms of my- 
thology which make any figure in the page of histo- 
ry, now exist in China, except that their indecent 
parts, and their direct tendency to injure human life, 
have been cut off. China has her Diana, her iEoluSj 
her Ceres, her Esculapius, her Mars, her Mercury, her 
Neptune, and her Pluto, as well as the western Pa- 
gans had. To use their own expression, 1 her gods 
are in number like the sands of Hang river.' She has 
gods celestial, terrestrial and subterraneous — gods of 
the hills, of the valleys, of the woods, of the districts, 
of the family, of the shop, and of the kitchen. She 
adores the gods who are supposed to preside over the 
thunder, the rain, the fire, over the grain, over births 
and deaths, and over the small-pox. She also wor- 
ships the genii of the mountains, rivers, lakes, and 
seas, together with birds, beasts and fishes.' 7 

"Astrology, divination, geomancy and necromancy, 
every where prevail ; spells and charms every one 
possesses." 

As might be expected, the god of wealth is the most 
popular deity among the tradesmen and merchants. 
He is represented with a wedge of gold in one hand. 

On the door of their houses a figure is painted, 
which they call the god of the door. His protection 
is deemed of incalculable importance to the family. 
The inscription of his name is often employed as a 
substitute. 

There is scarcely any thing; which more immedi- 
ately fixes the eye of a foreigner in the streets of Can- 
ton, than the puny feet and waddling gait of the fair 
sex. This strange freak of fashion must be seen to 



86 



CHINA* 



be conceived. After such a distortion — such ail al> 
solute robbery, the term foot becomes a misnomer. 
There is nothing left in its natural position ; but the 
great toe, if great applies to such an object, while all 
the others are wrested from their appointed locality 
and office, bent under the ball of the foot, and then 
made to answer the purpose of the sole. This ac- 
counts for their painful gait. The ancle is not uni- 
formly enlarged ; though it has this general appear- 
ance. If the Chinese estimate be correct, the small- 
est feet do not exceed three inches in length — proba- 
bly another inch ought to be added. Between this 
extreme of refinement and the ordinary dimensions 
of the human foot, there is every possible variety of 
size and shape in China. The custom of compressing 
the feet is not restricted to the highest circles. The 
laws of fashion are quite as imperious among the hea- 
then, as in more enlightened countries. Those who 
can obtain a subsistence without the necessity of 
much locomotion, are submitted to this barbarous tor- 
ture. The poverty of the mass is too excessive to ad- 
mit of a compliance, although occasionally you find 
women in mendicant poverty tottering through the 
streets, in pursuit of their daily support. These it is 
said, have been reduced in pecuniary circumstances. 

The fraternity of beggars are objects of true com- 
passion, and thrust themselves into notice in Canton. 
This class is very numerous in China, and whether an 
indispensable requisite for office, or a necessary argu- 
ment to the sympathies of a Chinaman, there are 
very few exceptions to universal and total blindness. 
When alone, each one feels his way with a stick : but 



CHINA. 



ST 



frequently, a number string themselves in a row, and 
depend upon the sagacity of a blind leader, or the more 
favored eyes of a youthful guide. The success of 
their application depends upon the skillful use of bam- 
boo sticks, iron pans, musical instruments, and their 
own vocal powers ; and such is the force of custom, 
that when they enter a house, they are never expelled 
until their object is gained. It is policy not to be too 
hasty in acceding to their requests, otherwise the same 
grating application is likely to be forthwith repeated, 
by an instinctive successor, who never interrupts mu- 
sic, nor suffers a long pause. Groups of them frequent- 
ly unite, and set up a concert of all their instruments 
in one place. As you walk through the streets some 
days, there is scarcely a shop from which these sounds 
do not proceed. 

One company sally forth at twilight, and go the 
rounds of some of the principal streets, contiguous to 
the factories, including the walk in front of the foreign 
buildings. Their application is usually chanted in 
mournful strains, and the whole region is made vocal 
with their loud and dissonant voices. A Chinaman 
is stationed before the factories, ycleped "king of the 
beggars,** who preserves order among them in his do- 
minions. 

There is said to be an organized association of beg- 
gars, in Canton, consisting of about one thousand mem- 
bers, and bearing the epithet of " The Heavenly Flow- 
er Society." These pay a fee of admittance, bind 
themselves to certain rules, and when disobedient in- 
cur a severe penalty. The government recognizes a 
chief among them, who is made accountable for the 



§8 



CHINA, 



whole community. Still lower in the scale of human 
degradation, are a few of the most loathsome and mis- 
erable beings I ever beheld. With matted hair, bodies 
partially incrusted with dirt, and covered with vermin, 
and but a tattered mat to conceal their nakedness, they 
wander about, eating the rejected offals of fish and ve- 
getables, and lodging on whatever heap of rubish they 
may stumble over when sleepy. Some of them are 
outcast lepers, who are obliged by law to wear a pe- 
culiar hat and mat around the shoulders, to designate 
them as objects of infection. — See Leviticus xiii. 45. 

Surrounded by the city, or the unwalled town, 
which has been described, and in a line with the river, 
are the buildings termed factories, which are assigned 
to the foreign residents in Canton, They are sepa- 
rated from the shore of the river, by the largest and 
almost the only open space in the vicinity. The two 
& ; cupied by the agents of the Dutch and English com- 
panies, have extensive verandahs m front, and walks 
inclosed by high walls to the water's edge. Most of 
them are built in a row. and extend probably one hun- 
dred yards in front. A street and a large projecting 
building, occupied by one of the hong merchants, sep^ 
arates this row from others, known by the name of the 
French and Danish factories. All the factories extend 
in blocks, to an irregular depth, and are separately oc- 
cupied by merchants and visitors. The communicar 
tion is an avenue, generally through the lower story 
of each, or between distinct compartments. The ap- 
pearance «of these buildings is quite imposing, especial- 
ly in contrast with the neighborhood. 

The open space before the factories is the render 



i 



Vous of multitudes of the natives, who assemble daily 
to transact business, gratify curiosity, or murder time. 
It is level, for a short distance* beyond which it stretch- 
es over a large pile of rubbish, deposited here after the 
desolating fire of 1822, and retained, notwithstanding* 
numerous applications for its removal, as a lasting and 
growing nuisance to foreigners. 

As the morning opens upon this scene, silence re- 
tires, and the ears of the stranger are assailed by a 
new and peculiar combination of sounds. Human 
voices of harsh, drawling tones^ cries of confined dogs 
and cats, screams of roughly handled poultry, notes of 
feathered songsters, some of them admirably gifted and 
trained, with, at times, an accompaniment of very un- 
musical instruments, all unite in this inharmonious 
concert. 

The occupations of the tradesmen are varied. Meat, 
fish, vegetables, fruit, drugs, manufactures, every thing 
saleable is brought to this general market. A num- 
ber convey their portable kitchens hither, and prepare 
such dishes, as suit the palates and purses of this pro- 
miscuous concourse. Others plant their barber's shop, 
or its necessary apparatus, in a convenient place, and 
spend their leisure hours in lolling about, and conver- 
sation. Those who frequent the place for trade, are 
probably less numerous than the groups of idlers, who 
pass their time in listening to stories, witnessing jug- 
gling tricks, attending the operations and lectures of 
empirics, gaping at objects of novelty, and too fre- 
quently endeavoring to obtain each others money by 
gambling. 

When the crowd presses too closely upon any of 



CHINA. 



these exhibitors, they have the most ludicrous and e£ 
fectual mode of enlarging the circle. With impertur- 
bable gravity; they draw from their pockets a cord, 
with a bullet attached to the end. and then closing 
their eyes, to exclude partiality, they whirl it around 
over their heads, gradually letting out the cord, and 
increasing the rapidity, until it comes whizzing before 
the faces of the intruders, and drives them back to the 
required distance. 

When the sun is oppressive, the crowd retires, with 
the exception of the hucksters, who intercept his with- 
ering beams by temporary tilts. The erection of tents 
is a liberty not sanctioned by law. or rather contrary 
to the oral prohibitions of the petty officers, who have 
the square in charge. Consequently when men of au- 
thority make their appearance, the scene suddenly 
changes, From the moment of alarm, there is the 
most hasty dispatch, until every thing is removed that 
militates against their orders. Their exit appears to 
be regarded as the signal of relevation. and all things 
speedily revert to their former state. Such a show of 
subjection, with real contempt ibr authority, when it 
opposes individual gam. is said to be a prominent fea- 
ture of the nation. 

The projecting building referred to as the only one 
occupied by Chinamen, in the row. is so situated, as 
to throw its shade as the sun declines, directly before 
the American hong or factory. This is the place of 
general concourse, from the middle of the afternoon 
until evening, and the crowd being then most concen- 
trated, the clamor is quite deafening. Neither is the 
darkness of night always attended with its appropriate 



CHINA* 



91 



stillness, for though the rabble of the day disperses, 
there is another company, principally the coolies of 
the factories, who, with a few noisy cooks, anxious to 
apprise the neighborhood of their presence, continue 
their conversations and engagements until a late hour. 

The insatiable curiosity of many, who appear daily 
before the factories, is both amusing and annoying, 
Groups of strangers frequently visit the square, and 
probably having formed no correct idea of the style of 
the buildings, and the appearance of foreigners, gaze 
upon every novel object with a fixedness of posture and 
vision, approaching to statues. If you expose your- 
self in the verandah, they generally stand in full view 
before it : and if you walk in front of the buildings, 
they linger as near your track as possible, and con- 
tinue to stare as though riveted by a magic spell 
Though tumultuous, there is in general very little con- 
tention among this concourse. The least appearance of 
an unlawful commotion calls forth a public officer, who 
resides for the purpose in full view, and is exceeding- 
ly efficient in quelling a riot, and scattering offenders. 
When occasion requires, he summons to his aid one 
or two lictors, who, armed with scourges, and appa- 
rently vested with discretionary power in their use, 
occasion a precipitant retreat The guilty are fre- 
quently chased, and when caught, dragged along to 
the hall of justice, by their pendent cues, which are 
cruelly drawn over the front of the head, and made to 
press the face toward the ground. 

In surveying this mass of accountable beings, there 
are many points of great interest to attract the eye of 
Christian compassion and benevolence. Indepen- 

9 



CHINA, 



dently of the " atheistic and hopeless** condition of 
all the heathen 7 there are facts of importance peculiar 
to this daily throng. Great numbers of them can 
read, and are attracted by every publication that meets 
their eyes. It is customary to paste up advertise- 
ments in the most public places of the square and the 
streets, and the groups generally found throughout the 
day gathered around them, show their eagerness to 
catch at every piece of information. Many of these 
hand-bills set forth the pretensions of quacks, and are 
often of such an immoral character, as prove that God 
has indeed " given the people up to vile affections/ 3 
who can endure them. What a place for the ope- 
rations of the press, sacred to the cause of the Re- 
deemer. 

Another fact of interest is, that this daily multitude 
consists of persons from different parts of the interior, 
as well as the immediate vicinity. If business or 
pleasure brings them to the city, they can scarcely 
possess the characteristic curiosity of the nation, if 
they return without a visit to "the thirteen hongs.'* as 
the foreign buildings are universally designated. 

Though eligible on account of its situation, Can- 
ton is, in many respects, the least favorable position in 
the empire for the direct efforts of the missionary, 
The jealous, exclusive policy of the government has 
subjected the foreigner to such restricted liberty of in- 
tercourse with the natives, that very little can be 
openly attempted for their benefit, A strange system 
of securityship has been imposed, by which every 
foreigner is so associated with the Chinese who reside 
in his family, or transact his business, that the latter 



CHINA. 



93 



are held responsible for the good conduct of the for- 
mer. The fear of having the innocent suffer by the 
hand of legalized oppresssion prevents the missionary 
from those aggressive measures which he would 
adopt, if the hazard of his own safety were the only 
result. Since the former edition of this journal, two 
attempts have been made to punish the native Chris- 
tians and their assistants, for printing and circulating 
the Christian books. One rule of action however, 
should never be forgotten by those who engage in 
works of beneficence for China — a formal petition is 
seldom accorded, however insignificant its object, while 
on the other hand many plans may be successfully 
prosecuted, if you ask no questions, and heed no con- 
sequences. The old adage is strictly applicable to 
China and other eastern countries, " nothing venture, 
nothing gain." 

The necessity of having the Scriptures translated, 
and other preparatory works of indispensable import- 
ance accomplished, have not only consumed the time 
of the senior missionary, but imposed upon him an 
obligation to leave experiments to those whose pre- 
sence could be more easily dispensed with — who have 
not the first toils of a mission before them. 

It has been mentioned that the Choo-keang, or 
Pearl river, runs in front of the factories, and forms 
the southern boundary of Canton. In passing to and 
from the shipping, I had a favorable opportunity for 
viewing the numerous boats, which on our arrival, 
were partially obscured by the shades of night. The 
magic appearance of the first evening had principally 
vanished. Ignorant of the locality of the city, it was 



94 



quite evident that some of the lights on shore had 
been mistaken for those in the boats, and the level site 
of the city, for extensive water scenery. Yet enough 
remained to attract and distract the attention, and to 
keep the mind in a glow of excitement. The boats 
are much more numerous abreast of the city, and op- 
posite the villages bordering on the river, than in the 
intervening waters. These are, for the most part, the 
residences of families : and as the owners of many of 
them are employed on shore, they are kept more sta- 
tionary than the others. This, however, is not so 
much the result of choice, or inability on the part of 
the women to manage their boats, as it is the want of 
an adequate inducement to change their position. 
Even children of both sexes, as soon as they are 
capable of assisting, are taught to labor to the ex- 
tent of their strength; so that the absence of the fa- 
ther and husband is no preventive to any undertaking, 
if sufficiently profitable. When the parties are depen- 
dent for a livelihood, upon the hire of their boats, the 
women appear to labor quite as diligently as the men : 
by which means they acquire all the dexterity and en- 
durance, and I may add, coarseness, of which human na- 
ture is susceptible. It is not uncommon to see them tug- 
ging at the oar, with an infant tied to their backs, and 
its head, if feeble, keeping time to the motion of the 
mother's body. 

Such is the multitude and density of these dwell- 
ings in some favorite regions, that they often conceal 
a large surface of the element on which they rest, and 
appear jumbled together in a solid mass. In other 
places they are arranged with contiguous sides 5 and 



CHINA. 



95 



extend from each shore, so as to leave about a third 
of the river clear. Groups of them are often detach- 
ed from the land, and moored in regular rows ; afford- 
ing the facilities of communication among themselves, 
and preventing intercourse with the shore. Beside 
these family boats, there are many others of much 
larger dimensions, which are employed in transfer- 
ring articles of commerce between different parts of 
the empire, and Canton. 

Transient vessels generally select the center of the 
river for an anchorage, and yielding to the force of a 
powerful current, range in the direction of the stream. 
Besides these clusters of vessels, there are numbers of 
insulated crafts, of different sizes, scattered in every 
direction, and equally tending to obstruct the passage 
of the river. In fact, it is necessary to "keep a sharp 
look-out," and to steer, in places, the most crooked 
course, to avoid the contact of stationary and moving 
boats. One class of these dwellings, and it comprises 
a large number, is composed of the sties of a degra- 
ded portion of the community, many of whom, it is 
said, are early sold, by their inhuman parents, to per- 
petual infamy and wretchedness. These are distin- 
guished from all the rest, by the superior style of their 
structure and embellishments. 

It is a singular fact, that the Chinese look upon 
those who dwell in boats as a distinct race from them- 
selves. They consider them a low, alien people, and 
refuse to intermarry with them. Tradition says, that 
they came from outside the mouth of the river. The 
grandfather of the present emperor Avas the first who 

*9 



96 



cms a 



naturalized them. Before ins time they were not per- 
mitted to lancL 

Neither is the whole water population confined to 
floating' residences. Houses erected on piles, and su- 
perior to the ordinary influence of wind and tide, ex- 
tend, in some places, a considerable distance from the 
shore opposite to Canton. Between the villages, as 
has been stated, the boats are less numerous : but 
as might be supposed, there are numbers constantly 
passing, besides many engaged in fishing, or whatever 
employment may ofler alono- the shore. Their vessels 
of war indicate, either an amicable disposition, a friend- 
ly neighborhood, or a great deficiency of skill in na- 
val architecture, The strength of their materials 
would gwe them a defensive advantage: but they are 
built on an antiquated and clumsy model, and neither 
calculated to contend with a tumultuous sea. nor to 
confront a modern foe. 

In connection with these, a number of galliots are 
employed by government to defend the trade, and pre- 
vent the depredations of the ladrones. or pirates, bv 
whom the rivers and coasts were formerly much in- 
fested. These are well built, and generally manned 
by as many rowers as can occupy the seats and em- 
ploy the oars with advantage. But alas ! though 
superstition, or old custom, has furnished them all 
with eyes ;* they appear capable of seeing but one ob- 
ject, and in the pursuit of that they stop not to inquire 
whether friend or foe suffers. All these unprincipled 
officers of government can be bribed, and that to the 



♦Every Chinese boat, of any size, has two large eyes painted— 
one on each side of the bow. 



CHINA. 



97 



connivance and even prosecution of a traffic, (the 
opium trade.) which is not only interdicted by the 
laws of the country, but the destruction of its vital 
interests. 

Among these fluviatic tribes, every convenience of 
land as well as water, is enjoyed. Eatables, sacrifi- 
cial materials, and other articles of equal demand, are 
furnished to their hand; while barbers, play-actors, 
and all who can reap advantage by administering to 
their comfort or amusement, pursue the same system 
of mutual accommodation. 

The appearance of the river is b}^ no means an in- 
correct barometer, indicating especially those great 
changes in the atmosphere, which are subjects of ap- 
prehension to these experienced weather spies. The 
difference between the water scenery in a fair day, 
and a storm, or the prospect of a gale, is very striking. 
One would scarcely believe, that the numbers which 
appear so thickly congregated in different parts of the 
river, in good weather, could crowd in the compass 
which confines them, when danger is feared. In 
times of apprehension, the river appears as clear as 
those of other countries; its width is, of course, con- 
siderably contracted by the boats closely ranged along 
the shores. 

Of all the different descriptions of craft, there are 
very few destitute of shrines, images, or some inscrip- 
tions, and the necessary apparatus for their daily of- 
ferings. Every morning and evening, and at what- 
ever season evils are deprecated, or special blessings 
craved, they fly to their altar, apply a piece of conse- 
crated paper, oiled for the purpose, to the burning 



93 



CHINA. 



lamp, or incense stick, and when it blazes throw it 
into the water, and bow to the imaginary spirit of the 
deep. 

By a recent statement, the number of family boats 
subject to an annual tax. in the vicinity of Canton 
alone, is computed at fifty thousand : while the larger 
vessels employed between Canton and TVhampoa. are 
estimated at eighteen thousand more. Neither does 
this furnish an adequate view of the vast number of 
perishing idolaters, who inhabit the waters of this 
region. The amount is greatly swelled by the men 
employed in the large canal boats, which ply between 
this port and different parts of the interior, and by the 
crews of the junks employed in the coasting trade, 
numbers of which are constantly lying m harbor. A 
communication is kept up between Canton and every 
part of the empire, and if the former maintain its com- 
mercial advantages, and receive from Christians the 
attention it merits, it must become one of the most im- 
portant mission stations in the world. 

One of the principal modes of recreation among 
foreigners, is rowing and sailing in small boats, which 
the}' keep for the purpose. In these excursions, you 
are often obliged to pass through fleets of native craft, 
and thus you come in contact with crowds of persons 
who might be taught and furnished with books. It 
is true, they evince a shyness toward foreigners, which 
may be partially inspired by the officers of govern- 
ment : but it is a question whether this might not be 
overcome by a little perseverance, and whether, when 
it had become a common practice, it would not cease 
to awaken suspicion. 



CHINA. 



99 



July 6th. — Opposite to Canton is the island of Ho- 
nam, so called from its situation on " the south side of 
the river." ; As this is the only place in the vicinity, 
where country scenery can be enjoyed, we have been 
in the habit of making it the scene of an occasional 
ramble. After passing through a number of narrow, 
filthy lanes, you emerge into an extensive champaign, 
and have the liberty of wandering as far as health or 
inclination dictates. 

The land is principally low — partially inundated 
by the tide waters, and devoted to the cultivation of 
rice, for which it is well adapted. Where its sur- 
face is not too level and saturated, it is arranged 
in terraces, and planted with a great variety of ve- 
getables, ginger, a species of indigo, &c. The fields 
are divided by ridges, which answer for walks, and 
are generally flagged with a coarse granite. With 
the exception of a very few scattered houses, the farm- 
ers reside in villages, surrounded with walls. These 
villages we have often approached, though at times it 
has been necessary to avoid them, to keep without the 
reach of the stones and dirt, with which the boys oc- 
casionally annoyed us. Almost every piece of rising- 
ground is consecrated to the burial of the dead ; and 
the vast multitudes crowded together in these spacious 
cemeteries, proclaim the dominion of the king of ter- 
rors. We were interested in the examination of the 
bridges thrown across the natural and artificial streams ; 
the strength of their materials, and firmness of their 
structure, appeared as though they had survived, and 
would long defy the waste of ages. Some of the slabs 
of granite were twenty-four feet in length. 



CHINA, 



But the greatest object of curiosity is the large Pa- 
gan establishment, belonging to the sect of Budha. It 
is situated near the margin of the river, is enclosed by 
a wall, and includes within its limits an area of a num- 
ber of acres. As you enter the gate, the eye is ar- 
rested by a few majestic banjans. which appear to have 
withstood the storms of centuries, and found a conge- 
nial soil within these sacred precincts. Passing up a 
central walk, the avenue leads through two buildings, 
a short distance apart, in each of which are seated coi- 
lossal figures, intended as warders to the temple. The 
countenance and attitude of some of them, are intend- 
ed to express the deepest rage. A little farther are 
two buildings directly opposite to each other, to which 
flagged walks branch off from the main avenue. 
These contain a number of famous military cUmL 
eods : one of which has been adopted as the patron 
deity of the reigning family. After this, you come 
successively to three large halls, interrupting the cen- 
tral walk, and containing a variety of idols of different 
dimensions and appearances. In one of them are seated 
three huge figures, designed to illustrate the trine man- 
ifestations of Budha. the past present, and future. 
Eighteen images, the disciples of Budha. are arranged 
on each side of the hall. " The Manchou Tartar 
family, on the throne of China." say its monarchs. 
• are these disciples of Budha. appearing again on the 
stage of the world, according to their ideas of the Me- 
te mphsycosis.*' 

Each of these principal halls contains a number of 
ornamental pillars. Their roofs are generally made 
to project, with the low and convex sweep of primitive 



CHINA. 



101 



architecture, and decorated with grotesque monsters, 
intended to represent dragons and lions. 

Beside these principal buildings, there are others 
situated on each side of the inclosed space, employed 
as cells for lodging, a dining apartment, idol halls, a 
printing room, pens for animals, and whatever is ne- 
cessary for the support of their worship and them- 
selves. Their library contains books of many sizes 
and forms, chiefly prayers untranslated from the Pali, 
or sacred language, 

No free-will offering to their gods is considered 
more acceptable than living domestic animals, lib- 
erally supported until death. These are most carefully 
preserved and feasted, until choked with fat, or worn 
out with age. The eyes of some of the hogs are en- 
tirely concealed ; a deep crevice designates the place 
of their interment. 

The whole number of priests belonging to the es- 
tablishment, is between one and two hundred. There 
is evidently a great distinction in rank among them, 
Some are respectable in appearance, and much re- 
spected — others are clothed in rags, and beg" along the 
streets of Canton, 

We saw about seventy engaged in their daily de- 
votions, in one of the largest halls. The youngest 
was perhaps twelve years of age, and the eldest pass- 
ing threescore and ten. They were all dressed m 
their robes, and spent about an hour in droning their 
cabalistic words, aided and timed by the beat of metal 
vessels. During the hour, they passed through the 
different attitudes of kneeling, knocking their heads, 



102 



CHINA* 



standing, bowing, and walking in single file afound 
the hall. 

The whole spectacle was calculated to impress a 
feeling heart with compassion, It was deeply affect- 
ing to see so many, apparently in the last stage of this 
probationary existence, trusting to a delusion which 
had impressed its own unmeaningness upon their 
countenances, while the younger ones were early im- 
bibing the same stupefying lesson, 

In all our rambles through the country and villages 
of Honam, there has been nothing 1 to discourage the 
hope, that, if capable of communicating with the na- 
tives, we might tax our strength to the utmost, m 
teaching them the ".glad tidings of great joy. 7 ' 

For some days after our arrival, we were visited by 
crowds of merchants and mechanics, whose object 
none could mistake. Of course, their principal busi- 
ness is with our mercantile fellow passengers. They 
generally understand a little English ; but their vo- 
cabulary is so limited and corrupt, that it is at first 
impossible to comprehend their meaning. With the 
exception of two or three, who have spent some time 
in England or America, there is probably not one of 
their number, to whom, even simple ideas expressed 
in correct diction, would be intelligible. There must 
be a system of mutual accommodation, or nothing can 
be done with them. 

Some of the most familiar vocables in this strange 
compound, belong neither to correct Chinese, English, 
nor Portuguese, but are a corruption of each, with an 
admixture of a few other words, said, by philologists, 
to be traceable to no language, living or dead. Many 



CHINA* 



103 



of our syllables have sounds to which their organs of 
j speech have never been trained, and consequently, 
: when uttered by them, they appear so unlike them- 
; selves, as not to be recognized by their old and best 
acquaintance, 

Their own idiom is retained in some cases, and a 
I literal translation of words attempted, which, from the 
great difference of structure and figurative allusion in 
the two languages, would frequently convey to the 
mind of a novice^ any idea as readily as the one m r 
j tended. 

The appearance of these men, and in fact of the 
Chinese in general, both male and female, differs, in 
some respects, from my preconceived notions. Those 
peculiarities which are the most striking to the stran- 

| get, are the great variety of complexion, the general 
flatness of face, and uniformity of features, and espe- 
cially the strange formation- of the eye, not only with 

! its internal angle curved, as noticed by writers, but 
with the lid in many cases so small, as to appear una- 
dapted to its natural use. This last peculiarity is most 
remarkable among children. The lid appears unnatu- 
rally distended when the eye is open ; at the same 
time it covers so much of the ball of the eye, as to 
produce the impression that the latter is uncomforta- 
bly confined. It is believed that ophthalmia, which 

, is very common in the empire, is owing in a great 
measure to this peculiar conformation. With the ex- 
ception of the occiput, the heads of the men are shaved ; 
while in that region, if its luxuriance will admit, it is 
permitted to grow until it comes in contact with their 
heels. In this province it is worn in a pendant plait 

10 

It ' 



i 



104 



CHINA, 



—the cords with which it is interwoven^ frequently 
supplying the deficiency of its length. It is quite a 
comment on fashion — " old custom/*' as the Chinese 
term it — to associate with the popularity and preva- 
lence of the one here described, the recency of its date, 
and the reproach of its origin, Upon the Tartar con- 
quest, not two centuries ago, the Chinese were com- 
pelled to adopt this style of wearing their hair, as a 
mark of subjugation. Many considered it such a dis- 
grace, that they preferred losing their heads to their 
hair. Now it has become an ornament, and a mark 
of proud distinction. 

The girls wear the long plait, according to the fash- 
ion of the men, but do not shave the other parts of the 
head. After marriage, the hair is braided upon the 
head, and decked with a profusion of flowers and jew- 
els, answering to the rank or means of the possessor. 
The ordinary style of dress differs but little in both 
sexes. It consists of loose pantaloons, and an over- 
garment, or robe, varying in length from the knee to 
the ground, and with long dangling sleeves, -which 
hang almost as tew. Their girdles, like those of the 
Jews, frequently answer the purpose of purses. The 
stocking has no reference to the shape or size of the 
limb, and the shoe has a thick, clumsy sole, turning np 
in front, and destitute of elasticity to aid the step. 



CHAPTER IV- 



CHINA CONTINTED. 

With these general remarks upon the country and 
its inhabitants, we pass on to a few of those incidents 
which occurred at the time, and which will assist in 
forming an idea of a residence in China. Two facts, 
however, must be borne in mind : the one is, that the 
writer did not immediately enter upon the duties of a 
foreign missionary, but devoted the principal part of 
his time to those who spoke his own language at Can- 
ton and Whampoa. His first engagement was with 
the American Seamen's Society. The second con- 
sideration is, that during his residence at Canton he 
knew nothing of the language, and was consequently 
unable to avail himself of those opportunities of use- 
fulness, which were almost daily presented. This ac- 
counts for the dearth of that kind of intelligence which 
is found in most other missionary journals. 

March 1st. — Yesterday, (Sabbath.) pursuant to pub- 
lic notice, which is generally hung up on a small board 
before the factory, divine service was performed in the 
large room of the building in which we reside. This 
4 is the place where Dr. Morrison has been in the habit 
of preaching for the last two seasons. A chapel at- 
tached to the factory occupied by the English compa- 



106 



CHINA, 



nv, is also open every Sabbath morning, for the wor~ 
ship of God. Besides these. Dr. M. has a Chinese 
service every Lord's day in his own room. 

Among the number of our attendants was Ah-see, a 
Chinese, known to many in America, who spent seve- 
ral years in the United States — was partially educated 
at Cornwall, and publicly professed the Christian faith 
in New York. How far he has maintained his Chris- 
tian integrity, I am unable to say. He is evidently 
familiar with "the speech of Canaan:'* but there is 
reason to fear that his long separation from all religious 
society and external restraints, has proved unfavorable 
to the progress of his personal piety. One argument 
against him is the distance he keeps from those who 
might be of the most service to him, and the apparent 
indifference with which he regards the condition of 
his countrymen. Still, there is a danger of judging 
uncharitably, as very little is known of his private 
life. 

We met this evening at the room of Dr. M. for the 
monthly concert of prayer in behalf of missions. 
Though none were present but ourselves, it was grat- 
ifying to know that the voice of prayer, if begun by 
us, would not die, at least in the ears of the Lord, un- 
til thousands in other lands swelled the petition, and 
rolled it almost " the world around.' 5 One fact en- 
couraged us with respect to the conversion of China. 
When the gospel gains access, according to human 
calculation, it must have a speedy and wide circula- 
tion. There is no moral power to confront it. The 
religion of the empire is baseless. Nothing appears 
to support it but one vast scaffold of ignorance, which. 



CHINA. 



107 



it is believed, can withstand no shock, and when it 
yields, must bury the whole fabric in one common 
grave. 

March 15th. — On Saturday, Capt. Lavender came 
to town with the intention of taking me with him in 
the afternoon, to Whampoa ; but a long continued 
shower prevented. Arose early on Sabbath morning, 
and reached the ship before breakfast. The Bethel 
flag soon waved in the breeze, and the silent invitation 
was answered by an unexpectedly large number from 
the two American vessels in port. 

This morning was spent in visiting two of the three 
j islands contiguous to the shipping, and accessible to 
j foreigners. They are known by the names of Wham- 
poa, French, and Dane's Islands. Here, strangers enjoy 
the liberty of exercising their limbs, if they confine 
themselves within certain limits, and of burying 
their dead, if they comply with the exorbitant de- 
mands of the avaricious and calculating proprietors. 
If a sufficient number are associated, they may extend 
their ramble almost at pleasure; but the probability 
of defeat, or the fear of personal injury, is the only 
certain security from an attack by the natives. The 
solitary adventurer is not always molested ; but it is 
always wise to decline the experiment, since the 
younger part of the community are allowed by 
their parents to pelt him with stones and mud, and 
" children of a larger growth"' are not backward to 
take from his pockets, or even his person, whatever 
may tempt their avarice or take their fancy. A short 
time since, an imprudent stranger exposed himself & 
•their cupidity, and was robbed of his watch. 



10* 



108 



CHINA, 



It should not be concealed that the conduct of sail- 
ors, permitted to enjoy "liberty" on these islands, has 
been highly offensive to the Chinese. Maddened by 
the fumes of a vile liquor, distilled from rice, and. it 
is said, mixed with poisonous ingredients, the crews 
of some of the ships have even gone to the extreme of 
sacrilege, assailing their very temples, and abusing 
their gods. 

French island is a vast cemetery, where multitudes 
of natives and foreigners, await the morning of the 
resurrection. Here are three groups of foreigners, 
occupying different places, though but a short dis- 
tance apart. The two most contiguous to the pre- 
sent anchorage are of a recent date, and consist prin- 
cipally of Americans and English, The tombs of the 
other are inscribed in different languages, and refer 
you, with a few exceptions, to the past century. The 
majority were cut off in the morning of life — a solemn 
admonition to thoughtless youth. It is unaccountable 
that those who fall from the ships, however expert 
they may be at swimming, and even accustomed to 
exercise in this very river, seldom arise to the surface, 
or are rescued from the grasp of death. Some attri- 
bute it to an under current of resistless power ; but 
those who are in the habit of diving for pleasure, ex- 
perience no difficulty in arising to the surface. Many 
a mound is pointed out, where sleep the bodies of 
those who were healthy, gay, unapprehensive of their 
-change, the very moment before it occurred. In the 
midst of cheerful conversation, there was an abrupt 
pause — a sudden plunge — an awful eternity. 

Those foreigners who die at Canton, are generally 



CHINA. 



109 



interred on the island, and from appearances, the 
" King of Terrors" has been peculiarly triumphant 
during the last year. One of our party, who had just 
returned from a trading voyage, read the epitaph of 
two of his acquaintance, to whom he bade adieu one 
year ago in perfect health. The first intimations of 
their dearth he received with astonisment, when with* 
in a short distance of their mouldering remains. 

Besides the number of strangers, who have made 
their grave in this heathen land, many of the hills 
are repositories of deceased natives. The sepulchers 
of the rich and great are generally constructed of 
hewn stone, in a semi-circular, or horse-shoe form, 
corresponding in appearance to the previous rank or 
circumstances of the "lowly tenant, n Some of them 
are quite ornamental to the hills over whose sides 
and summits they are scattered. 

According to the superstitious custom of the Chi- 
nese, they have just been paying their annual visit to 
their departed relatives, repairing the tombs, decora- 
ting the surrounding spot with colored papers, offering 
sacrifices to their manes, and attending to numerous 
rites, which they conceive to be becoming in the liv- 
ing, and not. simply gratifying to the dead, but quite 
necessary to their comfort. The more wealthy, on 
these occasions, erect booths on the hills, assemble 
their kindred, prepare a sumptuous entertainment, 
provide candles, incense, gold and silver paper, suits 
of clothes, and other articles, which passing by the op- 
eration of fire into smoke, they imagine pass into the 
world of spirits. Then they kneel and pray to this 
effect, "We a multitude of children, grand-children, 



110 



and other descendants, now, cn such a day. have 
come hither to worship at our ancestors' tumuli : we 
pray that by the protection of our ancestors, we may 
become prosperous, and that their descendants may be 
constantly supported.' 5 At this season, the bones are 
removed, if the body is supposed to occupy an inaus- 
picious place. Even those who profess to believe the 
doctrine of spiritual annihilation, or metemphsycosis, 
are among the most scrupulous m their offerings to 
the dead. 

It appears to be a very prevalent sentiment, that the 
spirit, or one of them, as they believe in a plurality, 
continues in the vicinity of the dispossessed body, that 
the sympathy between them remains almost as perfect 
as before their separation, and that the comfort of the 
living agent is materially affected by the regard shown 
to it, or to its decaying companion, by earthly rela- 
tives. ' The idea of having none to sacrifice at their 
tombs, and supply them with such things as they are 
supposed to need in the invisible state, is abhorrent to 
a Chinaman. 

One great inducement for keeping up these cere- 
monies with so much apparent zest, is the scene of 
feasting and revelry which ensues. If the descrip- 
tion applies with peculiar emphasis to any people in 
the world, i: whose God is their belly," it does to the 
Chinese. It is the exhaustless theme of their conver- 
sation. "Have you eaten/*' is one of the most com- 
mon and polite salutations among them, and the re- 
putation of a good liver appears to excite both the en- 
vy and respect of their more restricted countrymen. 

We visited a sugar establishment on the island of 



CHINA, 



111 



Whampoa. The simplicity and cheapness of the 
works were highly characteristic of Chinese taste and 
policy. The mill which expresses the liquor from 
the cane was composed of three vertical cylinders^ 
made of a coarse granite, and with wooden cogs. 
The coppers, as boilers are termed in other sugar 
growing countries of less primitive predilections, were 
made of cast iron, which they have the art of redu- 
cing almost to the texture of common paper, and of 
welding, when cracked or broken, with entire facility 
and firmness. These were arranged triangularly, and 
with little apparent regard to those principles of gra- 
nulation which are elsewhere adopted. That no- 
thing might reduce the quantum of manual labor, 
where hands and mouths are so numerous, and wages 
so low, the mill was placed below the level of the boil- 
ers, and the liquor carried in tubs, from the one to the 
other. As it attained its consistence in each of these 
vessels, instead of being passed through a strainer into 
the next, it was transferred by hand to another part of 
the building, whence, after the process of filtration, it 
was returned to its appropriate caldron. 

The workmen were very civil and obliging. They 
gathered around, invited us to gratify our curiosity 
and palates, and presuming on equal liberties, amused 
themselves in examining our persons and dress. Eve- 
ry article of apparel was scrutinized, and when the 
eye was not sufficiently discriminating, the fingers 
were employed. Here again we have had repeated 
opportunities of intercourse with the natives, and had 
we known the language, might have turned it to the 
b.est account 



112 



CHINA. 



March 20th. — Our attention has been frequently ar- 
rested by processions passing through the streets, 
Sometimes they are the retinue of men of distinction, 
-whose approach is announced by a herald beating a 
gong in a peculiar manner, and who move about with 
all the display of badges, servants, and equestrian at- 
tendants, of which their civil or literary rank will ad- 
mit. The sumptuary laws of the empire forbid that 
parade of mere wealth, which is common in other 
countries, although the liberty of purchasing nominal 
titles and immunities, gives nearly as much import- 
ance to wealth, as though such a statute was not in 
existence. One thing, however, detracts from that 
conscious security in his possessions, which the man 
of property enjoys under the laws of Christian lands. 
There are offices above the nominal rank, to which 
wealth can raise its possessor, and these offices are fre- 
quently filled with men, who, with the love of money 
and contempt of justice, so common in China, can ge- 
nerally manage to stock their own coffers, at the ex- 
pense of their unprotected neighbors. Occasions can 
be seized upon, where they exist, or feigned, where 
they have no existence, hy the skillful management of 
which, these officers of injustice can effect the most 
avaricious and nefarious purposes. 

But to return from this digression. — The proces- 
sions most worthy of remark, are either designed for 
religious, hymenial, or funeral occasions. \Vere it 
not for a few designating objects in one part of the 
train, it would be impossible for a stranger to deter- 
mine, whether it was designed to honor their gods, 
feast the living, or gratify the dead. The appearance 



113 



of the attendants, the style of the music, the objects of 
ornament, and articles of feasting are generally the 
same. 

Some of their burials exhibit a great show of mourn- 
ing, but as this is known to be the custom in China, 
and to be connected with other established usages, 
such as preserving the body of the deceased, until the 
ordinary fountain of grief is stanched, and calling to 
their assistance "such as are skillful of lamentation.^ 
it fails to excite the sympathy of genuine sorrow. 
The greatest ceremony is made at the funeral of a 
parent, when the nearest male relative walks immedi- 
ately behind the body, and is obliged to be supported 
in the phrenzy of his professed grief. The death of 
a wife is considered a matter of much less importance. 
The husband, on that occaaion, walks in an erect 
posture, and with an air of comparative indifference. 

The mourning habit is something of a light brown, 
with a napkin of the same color, tied around the head. 
Sackcloth is often worn ; the mourner, if not too poor, 
keeps himself in deep retirement for a hundred days : 
the heard and hair are allowed to grow, and other acts 
of cleanliness and comfort are dispensed with, all of 
which are designed to show the absorption of his grief, 
and consequently his estimate of the loss he has sus- 
tained. Among the Chinese, the death of a father or 
mother disqualifies a son for office for three years : 
the Tartars mourn a hundred days. 

The bridal palanquin and paraphernalia, designate 
the marriage procession. The former is exceedingly 
gaudy, and I believe employed only on this occasion ; 
the latter is said to be the only dowry of the females. It 



114 



CHINA. 



consists of furniture, apparel, wines, eatables, and at 
times, boxes of money. Of course, the profusion and 
splendor vary, according to the capacity of the father's 
purse and heart. The palanquin is generally attend- 
ed by a few females, the " handmaids'' of the inclosed; 
but so closely is it shut on every side, that you cannot 
by any contrivance catch a glimpse of the contents. 
The same ignorance is the misery of the bridegroom, 
when he beholds the vehicle approaching, and reflects 
that it contains the unknown companion of his fu- 
ture life. 

To-day, the largest procession I have yet seen, pass- 
ed. Its object was religious, in commemoration of the 
birth-day of one of their gods — probably a deified 
hero. To describe it, would be difficult, to imagine 
it the product of a rational mind, for any rational pur- 
pose, still more so : but to believe it the effort of an 
immortal spirit to secure the favor of one who has the 
disposal of its eternal happiness, almost impossible. 

Among the objects which principally attracted our 
attention, were small temples fantastically decorated 
and furnished with gilded images — pageants resem- 
bling open palanquins, and filled with roasted pigs, orna- 
mented fruits, cakes and flowers — boys and girls gau- 
dily arrayed on horseback, the first children of wealthy 
parents, who represent official attendants upon the 
gods, the others holding the sacred vessels of their 
altars, and acting as priestesses — groups of lads on 
foot occupying different places in the train, and each 
company wearing a distinct uniform : bands of musi- 
cians, both aged and young, with gongs, drums, tarn- 
borines, cymbals, stringed and wind instruments ; be- 



CHINA. 



115 



sides a large number of coolies, in almost every color 
and style of dress, each furnished with a religious tab- 
let, or object of ornament : the " tout ensemble," was 
not unlike the display, on a day of general militia 
muster, in some of the populous towns in America, 
when the different companies, arrayed in their pecul- 
iar uniform, down to the immartial ragamuffins, as 
multiform in their dress, as in their arms, join in one 
general parade, and lend all that is imposing, at least 
in variety^ to the long drawn and ludicrous spectacle. 
The resemblance is even more striking, in the spirit, 
than in the appearance of these two motley groups, 
convened for such different objects. If the Chinese 
had been enraged at their deity, and intended this as 
a public expression of their contempt, it would have 
been more in character. Such is the phrenzy of the 
human mind, without the restraining and renewing 
powers of the Holy Spirit. 

March 25th, — Dr. Morrison sent for us this eve- 
ning, to meet Leang Afa at his rooms. As is gene- 
rally known, he is among the first fruits of the mis* 
sion to China, and if the promise respecting the Jews 
be applicable to the Chinese, and the multitude com- 
posing lk the lump" be individually as holy as " the 
first fruits," we may expect a glorious harvest, from 
this neglected part of the Savior's vineyard. Since 
his, conversion he has been greatly persecuted, and is 
daily " counted worthy to suffer shame for His name." 
Active and undaunted in the service of his Master, he 
has been seized, imprisoned, spoiled of his goods, and 
scourged. His daily business, notwithstanding the 
rage of his enemies, and the revilings of his friends, 

11 



116 



CHINA, 



is to preach and teach Jesus Christ, " from house to 
house." He appears to possess the spirit of a martyr, 
and we have reason to hope, is prepared, if necessary, 
to meet a martyr's death. The feelings he expressed 
in welcoming missionaries to his benighted country, 
were awakened in us at the sight of one, in whom ap- 
peared so distinctly the image of the Savior. 

He read the tenth chapter of Luke in Chinese, and 
explained with much propriety the passage, respecting 
the harvest and laborers. The interview was closed 
by a solemn and earnest petition, in his own language- 
which before rising from our knees, was translated for 
our edification, by Dr. M., and offered to "the same 
Lord over all." It was mentioned that all his prayers 
are so different from the set phraseology of the formal- 
ist, and so feelingly adapted to circumstances, that 
they carry with them the evidence of their origin 
and sincerity/ 

April 2d. — One of the most popular amusements in 
China, and one which quite forces itself upon your at- 
tention at this season, is the drama. If you walk 
abroad, and allow your eyes their wonted liberty, you 
are sure to see it ; if you remain at home, and allow 
your ears the same freedom, you will certainly hear 
it, or its accompaniments. 

Stages are annually erected in the most public and 
spacious openings of the streets, and frequently on the 



* Others have been successively associated with Lean g Afa, and 
his last report mentions that "there are upwards of ten of us, who, 
with one heart and united minds, continue to serve the Lord, and 
practice the holy doctrines of the Gospel. Everv Sabbath day we 
assemble together^ to praise the Savior for the mighty grace of the 
redemption." 



CHINA. 



117 



ground of wealthy citizens. When the exhibition is 
intended for the amusement of the public, the expenses, 
it is said, are defrayed by the inhabitants of that dis- 
trict. The rich engage these actors for the entertain- 
ment of themselves and their families, to do honor to 
their guests, and at times simply to insure success in 
their temporal affairs, as they strangely associate pros- 
perity in business, with these and many other equally 
silly performances. These exhibitions are frequently 
intended for the honor and gratification of their gods. 
The squares belonging to some of the temples, are the 
places most commonly selected, and the scenes are at 
times kept up for seven successive days and nights. 

The sentiments they entertain of the objects of their 
adoration and trust, may be gathered from the pieces 
introduced for their amusement. Many of them are 
of a tragic character, founded upon ancient chronicles, 
and designed to perpetuate the notable events of the 
empire. That these should be grateful to the deified 
heroes, to whom the temples are dedicated, and who 
were the chief actors in the scenes described, is a na- 
tural conclusion. But what ideas must they possess 
of the moral character of these honored beings, if they 
believe that their attempts at comedy, buffoonry, and 
gross obscenity, are acceptable and approved. 

The inconsistencies and puerilities, mentioned by 
writers, are very glaring. How the spectators can 
not only endure such childish tricks, but admire them, 
must be a source of wonder to those who regard the 
nation as advanced beyond the mere vaunt of superi- 
ority in taste and attainments. 

In our estimation, their music is deficient in every 



US 



CHINA, 



excellence of instrumental harmony. They are fond 
of sounds, and have a variety of instruments, and 
practice sufficiently to become proficients : but either 
all our ideas on the subject are wrong, or there is ve- 
ry little musical talent or taste in the nation. Their 
instruments are in general, differently constructed from 
ours, and the musicians are not unfrequently lads, 
who appear in a great measure to consult their own 
childish whims, in the manner and pauses of their 
performances. In the music which is generally heard 
at their processions, one is inclined to doubt, whether 
any thing is aimed at beyond mere noise, and their 
most popular tunes, when performed by practiced men, 
have little in them that strikes pleasantly upon the ear 
of any but Chinamen. The gong is generally produ- 
ced on every occasion which calls for music, and 
there are many ceremonies, both in etiquette and reli- 
gion, in which it is considered the only appropriate 
instrument. Its loud and vibratory sounds, according 
to the usual mode of beating it, though considered 
agteeable by some, appear to me to be on a par with 
the tones of a cracked bell, — scarcely so mellifluous. 

June 24th. — One of the annual festivals has been 
celebrated to-day, and the confusion of a holyday 
crowd, the noise of guns, crackers, gongs, and drums, 
and the display of streamers and ornaments, of almost 
every gaudy color, have fatigued the senses and ren- 
dered the shades and silence of night, peculiarly grate- 
ful. The day commemorates the death of a states- 
man of high respectability, who, faithful to the office 
intrusted to him, was so sensitive to the slanderous 
misrepresentations of his enemies, that he threw him- 



<CHINA. 



in 



self into a river and was drowned. His name was 
Watune, and the event took place about two thousand 
three hundred years ago. 

There is a custom connected with the observance 
of this anniversary-, which proves a source both of 
amusement and danger, and with which the populace 
are so captivated, that personal safety and legislative 
prohibitions are alike disregarded. They have long 
narrow shallops, curiously constructed for the occa- 
sion, which they term dragon-boats, probably from 
their serpent-like appearance, and with which they 
pretend to explore the rivers and creeks, for the un- 
discovered body of the statesman. These contain 
from sixty to one hundred men, furnished with pad- 
dles, which they time to the beat of the gong and 
drum, and with which they drive them forward with 
great velocity. We have heard of no accident to-day, 
although not unfrequently the scene closes with a 
tragedy. It is the custom to try the comparative speed 
of the boats, and inflamed with the spirit of rivalry 
and the fumes of samshoo, they sometimes come m 
contact, and convert their paddies into weapons of 
death. Two years ago, beside running down a num- 
ber of boats, and drowning men and women, one of 
them was upset, and eighteen perished. 

Various superstitious customs are observed on this 
day. The mechanics and shopkeepers suspend their 
labors, and too frequently indulge in feasting and 
licentiousness. 

August 9th, 1830. — After a visit of nearly three 
weeks at Macao, we are again bending our course to- 
wards the scene of our present labors. A prison ex- 

11* 



120 



CHINA* 



cepted, it would probably be difficult to find a better 
preparative for the enjoyment of verdant scenery, in- 
vigorating breezes, bodily recreation, and ladies' socie- 
ty. than a residence at Canton. 

We engaged an English sail-boat manned with 
Lascars,* and favored with a fine breeze, in less than 
twenty-four hours reached our destination. The time 
has passed rapidly and agreeably, between the im- 
provement of opportunities for usefulness, and the en- 
joyment of advantages for health. In connection with 
the usual morning service, ordinarily conducted by 
Dr. Morrison, an evening lecture was also held at his 
house. The attendance much exceeded expectation, 
though it was something of a novelty — probably the 
first Protestant preaching ever attended on the Lord's 
day evening, in the empire of China. Though in it- 
self of comparatively small importance, it opens a de- 
lightful vista into the future, and discloses to the eye 
of faith an extended scene of gatherings attentive, 
praising multitudes, filling the thousand temples of 
Jehovah which shall soon stud this land, and scarcely 
capable of realizing the moral night which shrouds 
our present post of observation, and through which 
nothing but the lamp of prophecy sheds the faint- 
est ray. 

That such a prospect should be considered a wild 
fancy by a large proportion of mankind, who look on- 
ly at things as they appear, and overlook the determi- 
nation and ability of Jehovah to make them appear 
otherwise, cannot be wonderful to those who know 



* Lascars are native sailors from Bengal } or other parts of India 
Proper. 



CHINA. 



121 



the influence of the senses upon the mind, and who 
could have seen the spectacle of idolatry which we 
witnessed during our visit at Macao. 

As a remedy to the declension of trade and destruc- 
tion of fires, with which the nation has been recently 
visited, a famous geomancer recommended the erection 
of a new temple, to be dedicated to the "god of wealth, 
the god of the north, and the god of fire." A sub- 
scription was opened for the purpose, and the individ- 
ual contributions varied from one to one thousand 
dollars. A splendid pagan procession passed through 
the streets for ten successive days. It was composed, 
each day, of distinct classes of persons, belonging to 
a particular trade or neighborhood. Each party de- 
frayed their own expenses, and from appearances aim- 
ed at eclipsing the pomp of its predecessors. Being an 
object of engrossing interest, and not very frequent oc- 
currence, it enlisted among its attendants many per- 
sons from those classes of the community which, it is 
said, seldom honor the gods with their presence. As 
usual, there was a number of bands of music, some of 
which were volunteer companies of respectability : but 
never do I recollect to have heard such grating, deaf- 
ening- tones, from instruments designed for human 
gratification or human endurance. 

Among the great variety of objects intended to give 
effect to some of the processions, were young girls, 
apparently standing in the air, at least with ro other 
visible support than the decayed branch of a bush, 
held, by some, at arm's length from the body, or fur- 
nishing to others a perch for their diminutive feet. In 
the first instance, the branch appeared too feeble to 



122 



CHINA, 



sustain the weight of the body, even if the muscles of 
the arm were capable of such an effort, and in the 
other, it afforded no surface on which to balance the 
person, if the vehicle beneath had been stationary. 
The probability is. that there was a communication 
of wire, or something sufficiently tenuous and strong, 
painted in imitation of decayed branches, inclosing 
the body and fastened to the platform, which was car- 
ried beneath them. Their loose flowing robes were 
well calculated to favor the illusion. 

In one of the processions was a large, hideous fig- 
ure, made of painted paper, and designed to materi- 
alize their fancy of what they term " lung." or the 
dragon. This creature, or deity, or both, for their 
systems recognize no distinction, is supposed to exert 
a mighty influence in the regions of the air. It is 
thought to answer in some respects, to the Python of 
the Greeks — certainly in the locality and prevalence 
of its dominions it is strikingly analogous to the 
•'•'dragon, that old serpent' 3 of the true faith. Its 
length of volume, which probably exceeded one hun- 
dred feet, was supported by a number of men beneath, 
and partly within it. who held it upon poles, and gave 
the huge monster, as it passed, the sinuous motion of 
its genus. The day closed, or rather the night was 
spent, in the performance of plays before the temple. 
A temporary stage was erected for the occasion, and 
the court richly illuminated with clusters of glass 
chandeliers. Such is the solemnity and reasonable- 
ness of painim worship. 

At present we are returning in a large native boat, 
by what is termed the inside passage. Vast meadows, 



CHINA. 



123 



intersected by rivers and creeks, and bounded by ir- 
regular ranges of naked hills, extend in some places 
as far as the eye can reach. These are all covered 
with paddy. What a beneficent provision in these ex- 
tensive and irriguous lands for the rice-eating millions 
of China ! 

A light breeze bears us along, while village after 
village rises to view, and recedes in the distance. 
There is very little in the general aspect of the country, 
or any of its isolated objects, to awaken regret at the 
impossibility of landing. The site of the villages is 
generally low and level ; some of them are flanked by 
hills, sacred to the gods and the dead, and all, at least 
through our present medium — a heated atmosphere, 
and languid eyes ? — destitute of any attractions, or even 
an air of comfort. The houses are generally small, 
built of stone, mud, and brick, and presenting in a 
group, a dull uniformity of appearance. 

Clumps of trees and patches of verdure give a rural 
aspect to some spots ; the margin of the river in pla- 
ces is lined with fruit trees, principally the shadach ; 
but the population appear so poor, and their habits so 
filthy, that they neutralize all the attractions of the 
inanimate beauties around them. 

We were obliged to stop at Heong-shan, the principal 
village between Canton and Macao, where our passes 
and baggage were examined. Before the custom- 
house officers arrived, the water population crowded 
around us, and endeavored by all the force of panto- 
mimic argument to obtain our charities. Large pago- 
das surmounted the tops of some of the highest hills, 
and others of minor altitude, but generally upon the 







124 CHINA. 

principal elevation in the vicinity, bring forcibly to 
mind the denounced idolatry of ancient days. How 
animating the prospect when " these high places shall 
be removed," and " the mountain of the Lord's house 
shall be established on the tops of these very moun- 
tains." 

August 27th. — Within the past week, we have vi- 
sited two of the dwellings of the hong merchants, sit- 
uated in the village of Hainam. As specimens of the 
style of living among the most wealthy classes of the 
nation, they are interesting ; they consist, in general, 
of a group of buildings of different dimensions and 
compartments, covering a large area, and adorned with 
gardens and small lakes or ponds of water. Around 
the ponds and in them, were factitious rocks in stri- 
king imitation of nature, while the beautiful water lily, 
Nelumbium, spread its broad leaves above and upon 
the surface of the waters. With the exception of a 
few detached retreats, these buildings are connected ; 
but they branch off in various directions, and are ap- 
proached by small inclosed avenues. The private 
apartments., accessible only by these narrow passage- 
ways, allow of retirement to the family, and secrecy 
for scenes of carousal, even when the more public halls 
are open for the reception of strangers. One suite of 
apartments is fitted up for the women, the other for 
guests. With one or two exceptions, the rooms are 
by no means spacious, but gaudily, and some of them 
richly furnished. The chairs and tables are large and 
massive, and almost every room has at least two couch- 
es, with a table between them, designed for a luxurious 
fete a tete. 



125 



But the ornamental objects are the most attractive, 
Painted and intagliated walls, chandaliers, lamps, a 
variety of natural and artificial curiosities, and ancient 
relics, are displayed to as much advantage as possible. 
Some of the specimens of coin and ware, are very 
ancient, and large vases, formerly used for idolatrous 
purposes, very costly. One of the rooms was fitted 
up and furnished as a domestic chapel. Incense was 
burnt before a painted figure, intended to represent the 
tutelar deity of the house; We have referred to the 
custom of putting up tablets in the houses, at the de- 
mise of parents and other near relatives. It is 
thought that one of the three spirits which their books 
assign to each person, abides near this tablet, and is 
refreshed and gratified by the offerings which are daily 
made to it. 

The proprietor of one of the houses invited us to 
the ceremony of burying his mother, which is to take 
place during the approaching week. The body has 
been preserved above ground for a year or more, and 
now, for the first time since her death, the precise 
place and hour of interment have~presented themselves 
to the imaginations of the deceiving, and probably de- 
luded priests.* Our host mentioned that one of the 
principal hong merchants had a number of his deceas- 
ed relatives unburied ; some of whom had been kept 
thirty years, waiting for the lingering, auspicious hour. 
This is said to be contrary to the laws of the empire ; 



* The ceremony was afterwards performed in a splendid manner. 
Kindred, friends and spectators from all the surrounding country, met 
and offered sacrifices to the deceased. The expense incurred was not 
less than ten thousand dollars. — Can. Register. 



125 CKI^A* 

\mt superstition has no law. especially when protected 
by the strong arm of pecuniary power. That many, 
who are guilty of this offense, have the same control 
of the law as the one referred to. is evident from the 
fact that in January, 1S30. there were reported to be 
ten thousand coffined bodies in Canton, not interred,* 

August 31st. 1S30. — Within the past week, the most 
gaudy pageants and brilliant illuminations have cheer- 
ed the darkness of the night. Large boats, adorned 
with variegated lamps, have passed the city m a long 
line, for a number of successive evenings. These are 
frequently marriage processions. The lights were ar- 
ranged in horizontal rows, around the hulls of the 
vessels, at such distances as to combine the effect of a 
flowing sheet of flame, with that of innumerable in- 
laid gems, each shedding a luster far more vivid and 
sparkling than their rich ground work. From these 
rows there were others branching in different direc- 
tions, and forming different figures. The music ac- 
companied, or rather silenced, by the crashing gong, 
was in striking contrast with the taste displayed in 
gratifying the sense of vision. But such sounds, they 
pretend, are more grateful to their ears than the finest 
strains of European harmony. 

Last evening a ceremony was performed before the 
factories, which combined ail the whims of supersti- 
tion, with some of the sacrificial rites observed of old. 
by divine appointment. A large quantity of tinsel 
paper, covered with a thin leaf of gold or silver, was 
consumed amidst rows of lamps and insense sticks. 



* Canton Register, 



€HINA* 



127 



to supply the wants of departed spirits. This paper 
is cut or formed in imitation of houses, garments, se- 
dan-chairs, boats, horseSj and whatever articles of ne- 
cessity or luxury, the deceased is supposed to require. 
It is fancied that it passes by the process of fire into 
the world of spirits, and is there, by some unaccount- 
able means, converted into money, and whatever ob- 
jects are demanded. " The burning of paper (for reli- 
gious purposes) appears to have been adopted imme- 
diately after the abolition of human sacrifices, on the 
death of Che-hwang-te, who died about one hundred 
aud fifty years before Christ. He caused his domes- 
tics to be put to death and interred with him, to attend 
on him in a future state. At present, the consumption 
of paper, which is annually used on all religious oc- 
casions, is very considerable, and forms an exten- 
sive branch of trade in China." (Indo Chinese Glean- 
er, vol. ii. p. 36.) The real wardrobe is often consu- 
med for the same purpose. 

Under the influence of a kindred superstition, and 
one equally extravagant, it is customary for suicides 
and criminals to array themselves in their best appa- 
rel, in the immediate prospect of death, believing that 
the spirit appears in the invisible world, under the 
same advantages of dress, as decked the body at the 
hour of separation. Besides these offerings, a table 
was spread, and supplied with meats, fruits and wine, 
no doubt originally intended for a feast upon a sacri- 
fice, but now perverted to the gross purpose of feeding 
the spirits of the departed. One of the most respect- 
able servants, arrayed in his best suit, kneeled before 

12 



128 



CHINA* 



the table, poured out a libation of wine, and bowed 
his head to the ground a number of times ; then ta- 
king the offerings spread before him on the table, he 
threw a portion of the fruits to the waiting specta- 
tors, and passed the rest to the servants of the house.* 

For several days, service has been performed in a 
temporary building at the head of China-street, by 
priests of the Budh sect. The stage on which they 
stood was elevated above the heads of the people, and 
hung around with large paintings. Before these 
figures, no doubt intended to represent their male and 
female deities, the priests, arrayed in their pontificals, 
stood, and holding a paper in their hands, mumbled 
their orisons in a style that left no reason to wonder 
at the striking resemblance noticed by the Roman 
Catholic missionaries, to i; the holy manners 5 ' of their 
church. This ceremony is a grand annual mass, for 
the benefit of those souls that have no relatives to pray 
for their release from misery, and transition into happi- 
ness. It corresponds in many most striking particu- 
lars to the " manners 5 ' referred to, and probably had 
the same origin. 

September 21st. — For several days they have been 
preparing some of the principal streets for a fes- 
tival, in honor of the deity who presides over fire, and 
as a thank-offering, for preserving the city from its de- 
solations. He is represented with a frightful counte- 



* "When laughed at for their folly, and having the evidence of more 
than one of the senses, that the offerings remain, they will often pre- 
tend that the flavor, or at least, that such qualities of the food as nour- 
ish the spirit, are extracted. 



CHINA. 



129 



tenance, and a long flaming beard. To-night, the 
noise of instruments and voices announced the com- 
mencement of the ceremonies, and summoned multi- 
tudes of spectators to the scene. 

The principal street was arched over from the top 
of the houses, with cloth of such a texture, as to'pre- 
vent the rain, which was falling at the time, from in- 
terrupting their engagements. Beneath the arch-way 
were suspended glass chandeliers, variegated lamps, 
cloth festoons of the most gaudy colors, small illumi- 
nated boats, furnished and peopled with a great varie- 
ty of other ornaments, all tastefully arranged, and 
glowing with a dazzling brilliance. At each end of 
the street a stage was erected, with carved or painted 
images in an alcove, and with lighted tapers and orna- 
mented cakes standing before them. Musicians were 
seated on these stages, who accompanied their noisy 
instruments with a harsh vociferation. To amuse 
the crowd, or gratify the gods, or both, men were en- 
gaged in exhibiting feats of manual and pedestrial 
dexterity. 

From the noise of instruments and voices, the cer- 
emonies or amusements must have continued through 
the greater part of the night. In extending my walk 
beyond the limits visited last evening, I found that a 
number of streets were arrayed in the same style as 
the one described. A splendid temple had been erect- 
ed at the intersection of three of the streets, with a 
large stage, on which were displayed a profusion of or- 
namental and sacred vases, with pictures, an altar, and 
tapers, The sides of this temporary pavilion, above 



130 



CHINA, 



the heads of the crowd, were composed of several 
stories filled with objects and images, representing 
land and water scenery, and depicting the martial 
feats of their heroes, and the amusements of their 
gentry. Enclosed within a paling, were large figures, 
intended probably as representations of certain spe- 
cies of men and beasts, but which have no originals 
in nature. The frightful distortions of countenance, 
by which the Chinese, no doubt, intend to express 
something extremely magnanimous, or superhuman ; 
and especially the flame-colored beard, marked out 
the principal image to be the object of their present 
devotions. 

The street running parallel with China-street, in 
many respects eclipsed the array of its rival. Through 
the whole length of it were suspended from the arch- 
way above, a great diversity of beautiful cars, con- 
taining male and female figures, decked in robes of 
natural flowers. Had it not been for the heavy odor 
exhaled from these gay garments, it would scarcely 
have been suspected that they were not the product 
of delicate and laborious fingers. Even some of the 
old residents had always mistaken them for artificial 
decorations, 

The performance on the stage was continued 
throughout the day, and swelled to almost a deafening 
clangor in the beginning of the evening. The crowd 
became so dense in the street of flowers, that after 
toiling with difficult progress, and descrying in the 
perspective nothing but well-stowed heads, I halted for 



CHINA. 



131 



a short time and returned. Before leaving this scene 
of confusion, I had a fair opportunity of judging of 
the merits of one of their popular ballad singers ; and 
though the opinion I had formed was far from being 
flattering to the powers and taste of Chinese vocalists, 
I certainly saw no reason to change it. Of all grim- 
aces and noises ever seen or heard, nothing but the 
wildest buffoonry could equal this. He stretched his 
mouth to the utmost tension of its elastic muscles, 
raised his voice to its most unnatural and grating key, 
and after a number of long-drawn shrieks and qua- 
vers, exerted it to a pitch as thrilling as though he 
felt determined to close either his own lips or our ears 
in perpetual silence. It was necessary to hear the 
effort, and see the listening concourse, to believe that 
such tortured faces, and torturing sounds could ever 
be endured. Another one whom I unfortunately en- 
countered yesterday, left such a stamp of his ludicrous 
appearance upon my imagination, as I fear will haunt 
me for time to come. 

25th. — This morning, the fifth day from its com- 
mencement, the splendid scene closed. The revel 
was kept up all the last night, and he who could gaze 
upon the living mass which it assembled, especially 
after the laborer was released from his daily task, and 
not feel the deepest compassion for the ignorance and 
infatuation of the nation, must himself be as truly 
pitiable as those whom he cannot pity. 

One of the most intelligent Chinamen mentioned, 
that a priest belonging to the temple of the god whose 
tutelage they thus gratefully acknowledged and im- 

12* 



132 



CHINA. 



plored for the future, made it his business to go round, 
every day, and take notes of the manner in which the 
rites were conducted. At the close of the ceremonies, 
his observations were carefully written on one sheet, 
and passed into the invisible world for the informa- 
tion of the god, " altogether such an one as them- 
selves," 



CHAPTER V. 



CHIISA CONTINUED. 

" The dark places of the earth are full of the habitations of cruelty.' 7 

To give an adequate idea of the various and com- 
plicated miseries existing in China, would fill a vol- 
ume. Female infanticide, we have reason to believe, 
is very common. It is thought by some of the best 
Chinese scholars, to be greatly increased, if it were 
not produced, by their philosophical notions respect- 
ing the origin and continuance of all things. They 
believe that originally there was but one eternal prin- 
ciple, which was merely the first link of a great ma- 
terial chain, neither distinct from the universe, nor 
endued with any moral perfections. They represent 
this first cause — this first link of the chain, by a cir- 
cle : but as they feel it difficult to account, from what 
they see in nature, for all the absurdities which pre- 
sent themselves, on the supposition of a simple homo- 
geneous body, acting on itself, they suppose that when 
the system of nature assumed its present form, the 
one eternal principle was divided, and became two 
powers, which is represented by a figure of a circle 
divided in two by a waving line across the center. 
(See Indo-Chinese Gleaner, vol. 3, p. 2.) On the reg- 



134 



CHINA. 



ular action of these powers, the harmony of the uni- 
verse, both physical and moral, depends. Excess or 
defect in either, deranges the system of nature, and 
introduces disorder in the affairs of mankind. The 
one of them they consider to be of the masculine gen- 
der, the otlier of the feminine, and the difference 
between the two they suppose as great as between the 
vis mobile" and the " vis inertia*' of the old philo- 
sophers. 

To what extent the inhuman practice of infanti- 
cide prevails in China, we have no means of deter- 
mining. In the imperial city, after deducting more 
than one half for natural deaths, the number of ex- 
posed infants is. according to Barrow, about four thou- 
sand a year. 

Some of the scenes he witnessed while at Pekin 
were almost incredible. Before the carts go around 
in the mornings to pick up the bodies of infants thrown 
in the streets — amounting to about four-and-twenty 
every night — dogs and swine are let loose upon 
them. The bodies of those found are carried to a 
common pit without the city walls, in which the liv- 
ing and the dead are thrown together. This, howev- 
er, is a small proportion compared with other places. 

In some provinces, not one in three is suffered to 
live, and in others, as the writer has been informed 
by the Chinese from those places, the difference be- 
tween the male and the female population is as one 
to ten. We believe the last statement applies only to 
the poorest parts of the empire. 

" The most prevalent mode of perpetrating this 



CHINA. 



135 



crime is by suffocation. A piece of paper, dipped in 
vinegar, is laid over the face of the child, so as to pre- 
vent respiration. It is said to he frequently done to 
the aged and afflicted^ to cut the brittle thread of 
lifer* 

Infanticide is almost exclusively limited to the fe- 
male sex : and the condition of that class of the com- 
munity, when spared, is an evidence as well as cause, 
of the real barbarity and misery of the nation. 

A writer on China, after quoting a large portion of 
one of their moral works on the inferiority and treat- 
ment of females, makes the following remarks : " The 
very dependent and degraded state of females in Chi- 
na, may be partly seen from this extract. They are, 
moreover, not allowed the confidence of their hus- 
bands, nor to sit at the table with them, nor to have a 
voice in domestic concerns, nor to visit the temples 
where the prayers of the unfortunate are supposed to 
find access. Religion is denied them. Little atten- 
tion seems to be paid to the peculiar circumstances in 
which, as wives and mothers, they may be placed. 
£ Rise ; run ; work : eat little ; spend little ; be silent ; 
keep out of sight ; obey ; bear ; and rather bleed, 
starve, and die, than dare to complain/ is the genu- 
ine language of the above extract. Though fortunate- 
ly for them, humanity, common sense, and interest in 
many cases, plead in their favor, and procure a relax- 
ation of the rigor of ethical and legislative restrictions, 
yet where such restrictions have the sanction both of 



* Indo-Chinese Gleaner, vol. 3, p. 193. 



136 



CHINA, 



public opinion and of supreme authority, how is it pos- 
sible to prevent their hurtful operation on this tender 
half of human nature."* 

Without education — crippled from infancy — close- 
ly immured — married without their consent — in some 
instances even sold by their parents — and often treated 
most unfeelingly by the relatives, and the other wives 
of their husbands, we cannot wonder at the frequent 
suicides among them, of which we read, nor of their 
attempts to poison those by whom all their happiness 
and hopes are spoiled. 

The poverty of the lower classes turns to their ac- 
count, in the exemption it secures from the barbarous- 
custom of compressing the feet, and in the necessity 
it enjoins of performing laborious work, and thus es- 
caping the imprisonment to which their superiors are 
doomed. For the correction of these evils, and the 
happiness of these miserable beings, ought we not to 
expect much from the influence and self-denying la- 
bors of Christian ladies ? 

But suffering by the hand of cruelty is not confined 
to the female sex. in China. In the present constitu- 
tion of society, there is scarcely any security for prop- 
erty or life in the empire. Some of the laws are un- 
just, others perverted to the most nefarious purposes. 
The innocent are often made to suffer for and with 
the guilty, and the mandarines have it in their power 
to dispose of those beneath them, according to their 
pleasure. Hence the oppression and extortions under 
which the nation has long groaned. Contrary to all 



* Indo-Chinese Gleaner. 



CHINA. 



137 



the laws of civilized lands, they consider each as 
guilty, who might possibly be involved in a crime 
committed, until he proves his innocence. This ac- 
counts for that unreasonable and most cruel custom 
of examining hy torture. The innocent are thus 
frequently confounded with the guilty, or, if capable 
of resisting the dreadful temptation of accusing them- 
selves falsely, they are often made to suffer beyond 
the demerit of the criminal.'* 

Their modes of punishment, when guilt is proved, 
and especially in criminal cases, are often shocking in 
the extreme. Strangling and beheading are so com- 
mon, that scarcely any notice is taken of them. " More 
than one thousand criminals sutler death annually in 
the province of Canton. A learned Chinese says, that 



* On every occasion, they torture by pulling or twisting round the 
ears, (the torturer having previously rendered his fingers rough by a 
powder,) and cause them to kneel a long while upon chains. They 
next employ what they call the beauty's bar, (the breast, small of the 
back, and legs bent up, are fastened to three cross-bars, which causes 
the person to kneel in great pain,) the parrot's beam, (the prisoner is 
raised from the ground by strings round the fingers and thumbs, sus- 
pended from a supple transverse beam,) the refining furnace, (fire is 
applied to the bo iy,) and other implements, expressed by other terms. 
If these do not force confession, they double the cruelties, till the 
criminal faints, and is restored to life again, several times in a day. 
Prisoners, unable to sustain these agonies, are often compelled to sign 
a confession of crimes, of which, after death, many of them are pro- 
ved guiltless. The cruelties exercised by the local magistrates cannot 
be described ; and the various police runners are equally ingenious 
in planning to enrich themselves. In criminal cases, as murder and 
robbery, in debts and affrays, they endeavor to involve all who appear 
to have the slightest connexion with the matter, that they may obtain 
bribes from them for the purchase of their liberty. These petty offi- 
cers load their captives with fetters, until they cannot stir an inch, and 
release them only on receiving a large sum. Their sufferings are 
daily accumulated, until death is the consequence. — Indo-Chinese 
Gleaner, vol. L 



138 



CHINA. 



a hundred, on an average, are put to death by law iti 
the province every month." 

" In the close of 1816. there were in the various 
prisons of the Chinese empire, ten thousand two hun- 
dred and seventy criminals convicted of capital offen- 
ces, and awaiting the imperial order to carry into ef- 
fect the sentence of death. Some men, from their 
sufferings in prison, which is generally so loathsome 
and horrible a place, that it is called " hell,'' cannot 
support themselves in the position required. At night 
they are chained to inclined boards, on which they 
sleep. Cleanliness is neglected, and their dungeons 
become offensive and unhealthful in the highest de- 
gree. Money can procure some alleviation, and the 
prisoners of long standing, attack in the most ferocious 
manner, those unhappy persons who have newly en- 
tered. They seize them by the arms and legs, toss 
them, beat them, and bite them, to extort money from 
them.*'* The most heinous offences are visited with 
inflictions of the most refined and exquisite cruelty. 
Crucifixion, cutting to pieces, every species of slow 
and painful execution is employed. 



* Gleaner. 



CHAPTER VL 



CHINA, CONTINUED, 

Prom the last date to the time of his departure, the 
Journal of the writer is principally occupied with de- 
tails of the religious services of his fellow-missionary 
and himself, among the residents at Canton, and the 
seamen at Whampoa. As Mr. Bridgman uniformly 
look part in all the public duties of the Sabbath, we 
were enabled to supply bath places with very little in- 
ierruption.* A transcript has been furnished to the 
American Seamen's Society, and published. 

It may not be misplaced to repeat here, that his ob- 
ject was to ascertain the practicability of having a sea- 
men's chaplain stationed at this important mart of 
commerce, and that the short experiment fully ap- 
proved the benevolent plan. During this limited pe- 
riod, many facts of no ordinary interest occurred, which 
proclaimed the necessity of carrying on the work com- 
menced, and the readiness of a merciful Savior to bless 
the endeavor. 

* Besides the study of the language, which necessarily occupies 
much of Mr. B,'s time, he has about half a dozen promising Chinese 
lads under his instruction, who have been submitted by their parents 
^to his entire control, and dwell in the factory with him. One of them 
is the son of Leang Afa. Let those interested in the conversion of 
'China, pray that theseyouths may become Christians, and teachers of 
'their countrymen. 

m 



uo 



CHINA. 



It is affecting to consider what multitudes, who 
leave their homes in health and hope, find a grave up- 
on these heathen shores. Numbers every season are 
buried from the shipping, and some of the most prom- 
ising in health, and prosperous in their calling, have 
been this year most unexpectedly summoned to their 
account. It was delightful to find many of different 
nations, mingling in the worship of the same Lord 
over all, and so favorably impressed with the value of 
spiritual blessings, as to request that their respective 
ships might be made the occasional chapel. 

The only thing necessary to make the station one 
of the most important, in foreign lands, is a perma- 
nent and commodious place of worship, where the 
rules of etiquette, or want of space, need prevent none 
from attending ; and where the chaplain may have 
every advantage in pursuing his uninterrupted labors. 

In connection with the claims of the maratime com- 
munity, there is a small population in Canton, who 
for more than half the year have no religious services. 
Gain being their paramount object, and having little 
or nothing to remind them of their religious interests, 
it may readily be supposed that such will not prove 
the most favorable representatives of the Christian 
world, and that the heathen will be but ill prepared by 
" their good works which they shall behold, to glorify 
God in the day of visitation." 

Besides the regular morning worship, a service was 
established in the evening of the Lord's day, at which 
a large and attentive congregation were generally 
present. 

But the subject of the greatest interest, connected 



CHINA, 



141 



with this scene of exertion, is the conversion of China 
unto Him from whom she has revolted. Here is ah 
object indeed, whose magnitude beggars description. 
The salvation of a whole empire, — the most important 
empire upon earth, — itself more extensive than all Eu- 
rope, and containing about two fifths of earth's entire 
population. Look where we may, beneath the wide 
expanse of the heavens, we can find no distinct enter- 
prise so laudable, so imperious, so inconceivable in its 
results, as the conversion of China. 

The real condition of her hundreds of millions, is 
but little understood.* With all her empty boast of 
perfection, and the vapid eulogiums of her ignorant 
panegyrists, there is probably no other space upon 
earth so filled with real wretchedness as China. Her 
mild patriarchal government, is a system of injustice 
and oppression. From the " Dragon throne," to the 
lowest menial in authority, self-aggrandizement is the 
reigning passion, — extortion and cruelty the means of 
its gratification. Her plebian happiness is the com- 
bined result of poverty, virtual slavery and vice. 
Those who have had the best opportunities of judg- 
ing, give the most painful description of the indigence 
and depravity of the populace. The middling class, 
or those who enjoy a competence, are a small minori- 
ty : and they are often treated without justice or mer- 
cy, and if capable, are quite as unjust and merciless. 

* When we speak of the Chinese empire, we refer to all that terri- 
tory stretching between the Caspian sea on the west, and the Pacific 
on 'the east.— between Siberia on the north, and the China sea on the 
south. The most authentic census, taken in 1812, and published in 
the last statutes of the present dynasty, give a population of three him- 
4 red and sixty-two millions. 



142 



CHINA, 



Even the appearance of happiness which captivates 
the stranger, must be mere show ; for consisting as it 
does in earthly possessions, there is very little in the 
laws, or their corrupt administration, to give it basis 
or perpetuity. 

It is true their literature is extensive : but how far 
it is calculated to elevate their character, or meliorate 
their condition, may be determined by the fact, that 
scarceh" a subject of which they treat is understood^ 
while the most important truths, the only ones which 
can improve the mora! character of man. are totally 
unknown. 

Their philosophy, history, and poetry, are so mixed 
up with the marvelous and absurd, that with the ex- 
ception of the maxims of their sages, some of which 
are excellent, there is nothing worth exploring in the 
whole field of their science. 

Thus the conversion of China, with all the bless- 
ings attendant upon Christianity, becomes an object 
of worldly philanthropy, as well as of Christian be- 
nevolence. None whose heart is not adamant, can 
gaze upon this scene of distress without emotion. 

But how infinitely vast.— how worthy of all sacri- 
fice. — all hazard. — all experiment. — does the moral el- 
evation of this nation appear, when viewed in its con- 
nection with the Redeemer's glory. Here is a triumph 
and a trophy for His victorious grace. — a gem. the 
purest and brightest which earth can offer, to deck 
His mediatorial crown ! With the eye of this gracious 
Being upon us. and His heart upon the salvation of 
those who have been promised Him. as His inherit- 
ance, what can express our gratitude. — evince our dis- 



CHINA. 



cipteship,— or display our allegiance and love,— if the 
conversion of China be not the object of our prayers, 
and plans, and utmost endeavors. 

For the present accomplishment of this under- 
taking, much, very much, may be done. 

"Faith, mighty faith, the promise sees. 

B.elies on that alone ; 
Laughs at impossibilities, 

And says it shall be done. )J 

Missionaries should be sent forth to every accessible 
place in the empire, and to every mart of her com- 
merce in the circumjacent seas. The coasts should 
be invaded, and the sea-ports entered, as they have 
been, and still are, by the undaunted genius of com- 
merce. Every opening should be searched out, — ev- 
ery tenable post occupied, — every lawful engagement 
subordinated, — every passport possessed. Others have 
entered, and gained their respective objects. Pagans* 
Jews. Mohammedans, Catholics, nominal Protestants, 
all have penetrated but those who were alone capable 
of benefiting the nation, and alone commanded to haz- 
ard their lives in the attempt. 

Although there are many serious obstacles to the 
introduction of Christianity in China, there are also 
the most valuable facilities inviting to the duty. En- 
ergy of mind and body is a characteristic of the na- 
tion. They are extremely inquisitive, — patient in re- 
search, — -fond of literature, — free from the shackles of 
caste. — and comparatively but little wedded to then- 
systems of religion. 

These qualities added to the fact, that the Bible, 
and scores of excellent works have been translated or 

13" 



144 



CHINA. 



written in their own character, afford the greatest en- 
couragement to pray with expectation, and labor with 
confidence, for their spiritual welfare. 

The interesting voyages of Gutzlaff along the coast 
of China, which were made after the writer left Can- 
ton, have brought to light a number of the most im- 
portant circumstances. Contrary to received opinions, 
they have shown that the natives are fond of inter- 
course with foreigners, — that they have a high opin- 
ion of our medical skill, and that they receive Chris- 
tian books with the greatest avidity. These voyages, 
together with previous information, teach us that there 
are three direct ways of influencing China. — occupy- 
ing the ports of commerce in the empire, accessible to 
all. — itinerating in ships along the coasts, — and supply- 
ing the marts to which the Chinese trade in the neigh- 
boring kingdoms and islands, with missionaries and 
pious physicians. In the last mentioned stations, ex- 
periment has proved that the missionary becomes 
known both to those whom he meets abroad and their 
friends at home ; his disinterested and unpolitical ob- 
ject, is proved and approved : and his way thus pre- 
pared, when an opening may occur, to enter in and 
dwell among them. 

A fourth mode of disseminating the principles of 
Christianity in China, was mentioned in the former 
edition of this book. At that time it was thought that 
mission stations might probably be established in the 
maratime cities and adjacent islands, at which the 
coasting vessels touch for traffic. No experiment had 
been made to destroy this hypothesis, — none, it is true, 
had converted it into a demonstration,— yet such was 



CHINA. 



145 



the supposition of him who had enjoyed the best 
means of forming a correet opinion. 

In a recent attempt made by some of the missiona- 
ries and others, to ascend one of the rivers of China, 
their boat was fired upon from shore, and some of the 
oarsmen were wounded. Such is the systematic op- 
position of government to intercourse with foreigners, 
— such the vigilance and determination manifested in 
debarring strangers and expelling intruders, that we 
are obliged to abandon the hope, that foreign mission- 
aries would be tolerated, at least for the present, in 
any other places but Canton and Macao. Mr. Ste- 
vens, who accompanied the expedition referred to, has 
expressed the same opinion. Its probability is appa- 
rent at a moment's reflection, and in this light we 
wish to have it regarded ; — none can pronounce it an 
undoubted verity. The difficulties in the way of 
evangelizing China, ought to be universally under- 
stood. If they are disregarded by the churches ; how 
can the proper agency be adapted, and the requisite 
faith exercised ? How long this opposition to foreign 
intercourse may continue, or whether some daring 
spirits may not be soon employed by their great Cap- 
tain to neutralize its power,, are questions which can- 
not now be decided. It is enough for us to know that 
those other means for sending the gospel into China, 
which have teen mentioned, are efficient, and extend 
beyond the control of all the government officers in 
the country. 

But even if there were highways opened through 
every part of the empire, there are none " shod with 
the preparation of the gospel of peace," to travel them. 



146 



CHINA, 



The few missionaries who have been sent out. are by 
no means equal to the duties of their own stations. 
Those who have not been toiling for years at the lan- 
guage are not qualified for such an undertaking, and 
the Christian world appears still to slumber over the 
claims and calls of these perishing millions. Admit- 
ting that every possibility of entering the country is 
precluded, there is preparatory w r ork enough for hosts 
of laborers, and work which must be done, though the 
Emperor and every subject in his realm should unite 
their voices in imploring our aid. The language is 
to be mastered before anything of importance can be 
attempted : and they who can give the greatest num- 
ber of years to its acquisition, are the best prepared to 
employ it to advantage. As the Chinese are a reading 
people, it is exceedingly important that they should be 
made acquainted with many of those branches of gen- 
era! literature, which have the most beneficial influ- 
ence. Of the history of other nations, and the geog- 
raphy of other countries, they are. with a very few 
exceptions, grossly ignorant. China, according to 
their notions, is the center and well nigh the sum 
of the world : the focus of all intellectual and moral 
light : not only the glory of earth, but the counter- 
part of heaven. Europe, for instance, is represented 
as a small " outside island.'* inhabited by a few thou- 
sands of merchants, who speak different languages, 
and maintain themselves principally by their trade 
with China. It is unnecessary to mention that the 
tendency of such sentiments is fatal to the introduction 
of all foreign influence, and until correct information 
be communicated through the medium of their own 



CHINA. 



147 



language, this haughty contempt of foreign attain- 
ments and customs will probably continue. If works 
on all important subjects were sent forth, in every pos- 
sible form through the empire, the good effected would, 
in all probability, be invaluable. So that on any sup- 
position, missionaries ought to be on the ground, qual- 
ifying themselves for labor, and preparing the means 
by which they are to labor, availing themselves of all 
the facilities which exist, and watching every provi- 
dential opening which may be presented. 

The number of missionaries has been increased 
since the author left this interesting country. About 
eight have sailed from America to join the Chinese 
mission. The majority of these will probably take 
up their residence, at least for the present, at Singa- 
pore. In the approaching spring, another reinforce- 
ment of about the same number is expected to embark 
for South Eastern Asia. Five of these are ministers 
of the Heforrned Dutch church, and will proceed to 
Jav^a, or the neighboring islands. 

But while we rejoice at the growing interest which 
the Lord is awakening for this neglected empire, we 
are called to deplore the loss of him, in whose heart 
this interest appeared to commence, and by whose in- 
valuable labors it has been greatly increased. It was 
the privilege of the writer and his fellow missionary, 
to enjoy much of the society of the devoted and la- 
mented Morrison. The welcome he gave us to these 
heathen shores, we can never forget. His uniform 
kindness is equally vivid and grateful in our memo- 
ries. But there was something beyond the express- 
ions of affectionate interest in our personal welfare, 



148 



CHINA. 



with which the character of this excellent man is most 
strongly associated. From our first private interview, 
we saw in him "a man of God/' — "a workman that 
needeth not to be ashamed," — " an embassador for 
Christ." I remember the admiration and even sur- 
prise with which the deep devotion of his spirit was 
developed to my mind. Whether I had feared that a 
solitary residence among the heathen had chilled his 
ardor, or whether I had formed no definite opinion of 
his religious character, and had taken the common 
standard by which to measure him, I cannot now re- 
call. But he soon discovered, especially in his more 
retired and ordinary pursuits, the power of that holy 
principle, which incited him to this work, — sustained 
him under its discouragements. — and brought him 
with honor through the part assigned him. Frequent- 
ly when we called to see him, it appeared as though 
he had just emerged from the glorious presence of his 
Savior. His face beamed with tenderness and benig- 
nity, and the fervor, — the liberty, — and the glow of 
spirits with which he bore us with him to the presence 
of his Father, proved that prayer was his element, and 
" the secret place of the Most High his abode.*' A 
deep solemnity of mind, — an abiding impression of 
invisible realities, — a sense of entire dependence and 
un worthiness, — a constant conviction of the uncertain- 
ty of life, and an earnest desire to spend and be spent 
for the salvation of a fallen world, appeared to make 
up the habitual emotions of his soul. To some who 
knew him slightly, he had the aspect of sternness and 
severity. We do not wish to represent him as superi- 
or to all the frailties and imperfections of his fallen 



CHINA. 



149 



race ; but still we believe there were excellences of 
character predominant in him, to which very few at- 
tain. His missionary zeal lost none of its first ardor. 
It was in him stronger than death. Many waters 
could not quench it, neither could the floods drown it, 
The following short extract is from a letter addressed 
to me a few weeks previously to my leaving the east, 
and not long before his own transition to heaven. 
" Mr. Bridgrnan has written to me about advising you 
to go home ; but you and your medical friend are the 
best judges of the expediency of such a measure. A 
missionary' 1 s home is at his post, in the scene of his 
labors. My present feeling is i and long has been, to 
prefer dying at my post in China, than living away 
from it, even in the land of my birth." 

Honored saint ! he had his request ; and when the 
last trumpet shall arouse his sleeping dust, with what 
triumphant joy will he find multitudes rising with 
him, who, through his instrumentality, had been pre- 
pared for the " resurrection of the just." To his be- 
reaved partner and beloved children, — to all the friends 
of his cause and his Savior, we would say, — 

" Weep not for the saint that ascends 

To partake of the joys of the sky ; 
Weep not for the seraph that bends 

With the worshiping chorus on high. 
But weep for the mourners who stand 

By the grave of their brother in sadness ; 
And weep for the heathen, whose land 

Still must wait for the day-spring of gladness/* 



I 



CHAPTER VIL 



PASSAGE TO JAVA* 

Having received an invitation from Capt. Drum- 
mond, to accompany him in the H. C. ship Castle 
Huntley, to Java, where he understood I was going, 
we left Canton at midnight of December 28th, and 
proceeded in a large u chop boat" to the ship, lying be- 
low the second bar. The Castle Huntley, though 
rather inferior in dimensions to some of the vessels in 
the same service, exceeds thirteen hundred tons in bur- 
den, carries twenty-six guns, and has a crew of one 
hundred and forty men. Every ship of this kind af- 
fords scope for the most zealous chaplain ; and if, as 
in the present instance, favored with the advice, the 
co-operation, and the prayers of the commander, the 
prospect of success is highly animating. Whenever 
the weather admitted, we had divine service every 
Sabbath morning, on deck, and every evening in the 
cuddy. A part of almost every day was spent on the 
gun deck, among the crew, visiting the sick, instruct- 
ing the ignorant, and exhorting all "to repent and be- 
lieve." 

Having never been brought in such constant con- 
tact with a large number of sailors, I had an excellent 

14 



m 



PASSAGE TO JAVA. 



opportunity of testing and correcting my previous 
opinions, respecting the best mode of profitable inter- 
course with them on ship board. 

A sailor, as all the world knows, is a strange being. 
Bluntnessis one characteristic, and bluntness, mingled 
with an earnest seriousness, must be employed to meet 
it. No time need be spent in any conversation pre- 
liminary to the subject of personal religion. It gen- 
erally leads to such remarks or complaints from them, 
as will tend to defeat your object, rather than pro- 
mote it. 

Disrespect, where there is no restraint upon them, 
and frequently a shocking oath, or a loud avowal of 
their contempt of your presence and purpose, are at 
first employed by a few of the more hardy spirits, to 
show to their shipmates their manly superiority to re- 
ligious scruples — and probably to prevent you from 
intruding into their retirement, or disturbing their 
consciences. This, however, is seldom repeated, if the 
case be properly managed at the time. Let them see 
that you are dauntless — that all such obstacles, instead 
of subduing, only animate you — instead of irritating, 
only soften your spirit into the deeper compassion — 
that you regard their salvation of infinite importance, 
and could weep at the enormity of their crimes, and 
the imminence of their danger, and you will general- 
ly find these bravadoes, in future, among the most def- 
erential and docile. If the challange or oath is as evi- 
dently intended for your ears, as for their companions, 
" rebuke them before all," showing at the same time, that 
you have no wish to retaliate, or simply to put them 



PASSAGE TO JAVA. 



153 



to shame; but to expose the exceeding guilt and mad- 
ness of such unprovoked rebellion against God. 

If you can make a sailor feel that his usual wick- 
edness and indifference to duty can proceed from no- 
thing but ignorance, as wilful as it is profound, and 
that you have no secular object in view in exhorting 
or instructing him, you have obtained a claim upon 
his ear. and a passport to his heart. When these first 
difficulties, which are the most appalling to those un- 
accustomed to exertion among seamen, are mastered, 
the peculiarities of cases, must, as on shore, indicate 
their own treatment. 

Probably no unvarying plan of systematic effort on 
ship-board can be adopted. This must depend upon 
the dispositions of the officers, the regulations of the 
vessel, and, in a measure, the inclinations of the men. 
Opportunities for private conversation may always be 
found, or created, and tracts and small practical works 
may be distributed, under almost all circumstances. 
Every chaplain to seamen — every missionary to the 
heathen — every traveling Christian — should carry a 
lending library with them. 

For the greatest benefit of this class of men, we 
must look to those who labor among them in harbor. 
As a sailor has no circumspection, no forecast, others 
should exercise these principles for him. The crimps 
have long availed themselves of these characteristic 
defects, and the consequences are too well known to 
be detailed. The boarding systems at home should be 
broken up — of course through the effect of counterac- 
tion. There must be such a desperate invasion upon 
the usurped province of every crimp, as to leave him 



154 



PASSAGE TO JAVA, 



no means of subsistence, unless he abandons his in- 
human traffic in the souls and bodies of his victims. 

The immense good which may and must result 
from the conversion of this class of men. is best appre- 
ciated by those who have resided in foreign lands. Sai- 
lors generally prove a most serious detriment to all 
missionary efforts, and should they become subjects of 
religion themselves, instead of " scattering firebrands, 
arrows and death,"' upon every heathen shore where 
they touch, they would help to sow £s the seed of 
eternal life,' 3 even where missionaries have never 
traveled. 

Among the crew, was a young man from New York, 
whom the captain pointed out as quite superior in in- 
tellect to his shipmates, but who. on account of the 
most glaring misconduct, had been publicly flogged. 
I had frequent opportunities of conversing with him. 
and found him in a frame of mind, which appeared 
favorable to religious impressions. He desired to ac- 
company me in any capacity, but I did not feel my- 
self at liberty to take him. neither should I have deem- 
ed the step prudent under any circumstances, with 
the uncertain prospect before me. The custom of 
sending boys of respectability to sea. or of allowing 
them to follow their own roving dispositions, and make 
a trial of this mode of life, is common, both in parts 
America and Great Britain. 

Having heard the opinion of many of different na- 
tions, and in all the capacities of the merchant service, 
the writer feels the more anxious to echo to the young 
and uninitiated, the voice of experience on this sub- 
ject. Though the topic has been one of frequent 



PASSAGE TO JAVA. 



155 



conversation, he has met with none accustomed to 
good society, who, if they were compelled to continue 
this life, did not deplore the necessity which bound 
them to it, and dissuade their childen and others from 
entering upon it as a matter of choice. 

If the acquisition of wealth, or a simple livelihood 
be the object, probably none of the ordinary pursuits 
of life could prove less advantageous. The wages, 
if not inadequate to current expenses, are most scan- 
tily proportioned to them, and even with the prospect 
of a speedy advancement, which few enjoy, and still 
fewer realize, the result is the same. The highest 
station, to a man of family, affords a bare subsistence, 
and the liberty of a limited trade, generally adds but 
very little to the income. This, too, must be connect- 
ed with the necessity of being absent from his family 
more than three fourths of his time, deprived of the 
comforts and privileges of shore, and exposed to daily 
trials, of which landsmen have no conception. 

The fact that so few captains of ships amass for- 
tunes, and the still more embarrassing truth to which 
allusion has been made, that scarcely any continue 
this line of life from choice, are sufficient to control 
the judgments of all who are selecting their worldly 
occupations, and have the advantages of the wide con- 
tinent of America before them. 

Sometimes a seaman's birth has been selected for a 
voyage or two, to improve the morals of the dissipated. 
Those who are lawless on land, are sent to sea for sa- 
lutary discipline; but here again, no plan could be 
more subversive of its end. The mixed society, com- 
posed generally of the lowest class of men, gathered 

14* 



156 



PASSAGE TO JAVA. 



from different nations, and trained to different habits— 
the want of religion so prevalent among seamen — 
the unrestrained licentiousness of the mass — the tri- 
umphant detail of disgraceful conduct on shore, em- 
bellished by their own wit. and set off by the most 
pithy vulgarisms and blasphemies they have ever heard 
— usually prove as fatal to every correct moral sen- 
timent, as do the tar and grease, and dirt, the ele- 
ment of the forecastle, to all ideas of refinement and 
delicacy. 

To these general facts, it is pleasing to know there 
are exceptions. Wealth and piety have been acquired 
at sea, and the latter is occasionally found among sai- 
lors; but alas ! the want of each is too common to 
encourage the hazardous experiment. 

A few days after leaving China, we made the coast 
of Cochin-china, and saw as its most prominent ob- 
ject, something in appearance like a pagoda, towering 
on the summit of a high hill. The distance was too « 
great to define the object, but we have since learned 
that it is a rock of this curious formation. 

Cochin-China is a kingdom of considerable import- 
ance. Including Tonquin, and a part of Cambojia, 
which are now annexed to it. it covers a large extent 
of country, and contains a hardy, energetic, and intel- 
ligent population. The Chinese language is well un- 
derstood by the inhabitants of Annam— the native ap- 
pellation of their own country — although they em- 
ploy another character, in common intercourse, which 
bears affinity to the ancient Chinese, or seal character. 
The Roman Catholics have long had a footing in this 
kingdom. They reckon about three hundred thou- 



PASSAGE TO JAVA, 



157 



sand converts, the great majority being in Tonquim 
Formerly they were high in favor at the court, but up- 
on the death of the king, whom bishop Adran brought 
over to France for education, their influence diminish- 
ed, and recently they have suffered severe persecution. 
Those who have visited Cochin-China for trade, give 
no favorable account of the honesty or liberality of the 
natives. They are represented as rather cruel and 
intolerant, disposed to take advantage of strangers, 
and unfriendly to the admittance and residence of 
foreigners among them. How far the latter may be 
the policy of government, as in China, we can only 
conjecture— but that many of those traits of charac- 
ter, which render them peculiarly offensive to Protest- 
ant strangers, are produced, at least strengthened, by 
the intolerant spirit of Catholicism, there is strong 
reason to believe. The nation maybe influenced and 
approached through Siam or Cambojia ; or it might 
be benefited by more direct means. The possibility 
of the latter can be ascertained only through the visit 
of a trading ship. 

We spent two days in procuring water and fuel, on 
the coast of Sumatra. During this time the passen- 
gers and officers amused themselves on shore, in walk- 
ing, shooting, picking shells, &c. With the excep- 
tion of a few temporary huts, without inhabitant, there 
was not a human vestige to be seen. Traces of ele- 
phants and deer, with an abundance of snipe and 
quails, proclaimed the wildness of the region ; while 
swarms of most voracious and adhesive insects fur- 
nished a sufficient reason for the absence of man. It 
was remarkable that though nothing which indicated 
the presence of human beings could be discovered, yet 



15S 



PASSAGE TO JAVA. 



the last boat had scarcely put off from the shore, before 
smoke began to ascend, and fires to glow, in the very 
place we had left. Near this very spot, a young mid- 
shipman, belonging to the Company's service, was 
murdered a few years ago. He had wandered a short 
distance from his part} 7 , and in a moment was attack- 
ed by a number of natives, and transfixed with a vol- 
ley of arrows. The next morning we were visited 
by two or three small canoes, manned by half-naked, 
puny natives, bringing a few fowls to sell or barter. 

A few hours after leaving Sumatra, the ship was 
a^ain riding at anchor abreast of Angier. As soon 
as she was descried, boats were sent from the neigh- 
boring islands, with poultry, yams, fruit, birds, mon- 
keys, etc.. all in great abundance, and at the most re- 
duced prices. 

The most striking peculiarity of the natives, is the 
artificial shape and color of their teeth. They con- 
ceive it a mark of beauty, some say of distinction from 
the brute creation, to pass a file horizontally over the 
center of the front teeth, giving to them the form of a 
crescent, and then to stain them with a vegetable pre- 
paration, which often renders them as black as jet. 
The appearance is rather disgusting to a stranger, and 
the disagreeable effect is not diminished by the general 
custom among both sexes, of crammig their mouths 
with betel, cere, and tobacco — the latter of which is 
left to protrude beyond the lips. This mixture, as 
might be supposed, produces an action of the salivary 
glands, and the vicinity of their persons shows that 
they are regardless of the delicacy of any who may 
be near them. 



CHAPTER YX1X. 



JAVA. 

Angier is the point of Java where ships in the 
favorable monsoons pass, and generally call for sup- 
plies of water and provisions. It is situated on a 
large plain, adorned with extensive groves of cocoa- 
nut trees, and flanked by an amphitheater of the most 
diversified and picturesque hills. The luxuriance of 
the verdure mantling every part of the plain, and deck- 
ing the sloping sides and the summits of the high- 
lands — with a charming variety of lofty forests, and 
spreading fields, produced the most favorable impres^ 
sion of the fertility and beauty, for which the island 
is famed/ A small fort, a Bungalo or two, and a 
native village stand in close vicinity, near the shore, 
As there is no hotel in the place, I went immediately 
to the residence of one of the Dutch gentlemen, to 
whom I had letters, and who received me with much 
kindness. 

Supposing that I was anxious to proceed to Bata- 
via without delay, and being unable to provide a car- 
riage immediately, arrangements were made to have 



* I saw it twice, once during the rainy season, afterwards in fine 
weather, and it scarcely appeared like the same place. 



160 



JAVA. 



me transported on the shoulders of the natives, for 
the first twenty miles. The idea of being carried 
such a distance, in a confined chair, over bad roads, 
and through almost incessant showers, would not have 
been agreeable, even had I known the native lan- 
guage, been familiar with the way, and acquainted 
with the persons on whose hospitality I was obliged 
to trespass, for the night. As my kind host had made 
every preparation, under the evident impression that 
I could not delay, and there appeared to be no alterna- 
tive to a speedy departure, at least without violating 
all the rules of politeness, I was on the point of ta- 
king my position in the vehicle — which, from its struc- 
ture must have been recumbent, when the crack of a 
whip and the rattling of wheels, announced the ap- 
proach of a more comfortable conveyance. It pro- 
ved to be a government coach, which was hired to 
travelers, and which would be ready the next day to 
convey me to Batavia. 

I was struck with the timely interposition of Provi- 
dence, and the more so. as 1 had scarcely dismissed 
from my mind the recollection of similar circumstan- 
ces, when the most seasonable and unexpected relief 
was experienced, and when comfort rather than neces- 
sity, appeared to be consulted. It is but one favora- 
ble incident of a series, which connect the hours of 
earliest remembrance with the present moment, many 
of which have been too special ever to be forgotten. 

January 20, Batavia. — As the arrangements were 
not made as early as was first expected, I remained at 
Angier until yesterday morning. About seven, A. M. 
we started with the expectation of proceeding forty 



JAVA. 



161 



miles, being half the distance, and leaving the rest of 
the journey for the light of the following day. We 
started, as is customary in Java, at full gallop, chan- 
ged horses every six miles, and notwithstanding such 
a state of roads as fixed us in the mud two or three 
times, accomplished the day's journey by about 
two, P. M. 

The face of the country was considerably varied 
with hill and dale, wildness and cultivation. All the 
low and level tracts of land were devoted to the culture 
of rice, and some of these fields extended as far as 
the eye could reach. In almost every part of the 
way, the natives of both sexes were laboriously enga- 
ged, tilling the land with buffaloes, and transplanting 
the young grain from its original bed. Such had 
been the abundance of rain since the wet season com- 
menced, that all the low grounds were submerged, and 
the laborer was obliged to wade, often to an inconven- 
ient depth, in fulfilling his task. 

We passed a number of villages, situated on the 
elevated ridges of land, as far as could be discovered, 
(for the}'' are generally concealed in clusters of trees,) 
presenting a group of miserable huts, scarcely suffi- 
cient to shelter their occupants from the rain, protect 
them from beasts of prey, and contain their necessary 
supply of provisions. At intervals along the road, 
sheds were erected for market-places, where the na- 
tives assemble for traffic. In one of them, probably 
two or three thousand were collected. What a con- 
gregation for a Christian teacher ! Indeed, every 
thing indicated a dense population, and seemed to in- 
vite the missionary to come and be the instrument of 



162 



JAVA. 



raising them from their mental and spiritual degra- 
dation. 

The house at which I stopped stands some distance 
from the main road, on an estate of more than sixty- 
square miles, and in the vicinity of furious beasts and 
elegant birds. Tigers of the most dangerous descrip- 
tion infest the country, and even carry away the na- 
tives, while the woods are enlivened by flocks of the 
majestic and beautiful peacock. The manager of the 
estate received and entertained me with much hospi- 
tality. The principal object of curiosity which I saw 
in accompanying him over part of the estate, was a 
large petrified tree, imbedded in a few feet of soil. 

About seven this morning, we left the estate, and 
continued our journey with a dispatch proportioned 
to the speed and manageableness of the ponies. From 
this place, the country began to assume an aspect of 
less wildness, which increased as we approached Ba- 
tavia, and except the deficiency of comfortable dwell- 
ings, reminded me forcibly of familiar objects at home. 
The first appearance of Batavia was a group of 
houses, extending some distance along the road, and 
occupied by Chinamen. They were all surrounded 
with water, many of them flooded so as to be unin- 
habitable, while the people were obliged to move about 
in boats, or splash along at a depth which admitted of 
but a slow progress. This spot proved to be below 
the general level of the country, and we were happy, 
after riding some distance at a most tardy pace, to 
emerge from the flood, and pursue our way on dry 
land. The horses were urged forward at their usual 
speed, through streets consisting of Chinese houses, 



JAVA* 



163 



with a canal of running water on one side, until we 
left the precincts of the old town — where death for- 
merly reigned with such awful sway, and entered the 
vicinity of European dwellings. The canal still bor- 
dered the way, while handsome residences, with 
courts in front, lined the opposite side. One of these 
proved to be the hotel, at which the carriage stopped 
about three, P. M* 

After taking some refreshment, I procured a con* 
veyance, and called on Mr* Medhurst, the English 
missionary, by whom I was received with the cordiali- 
ty and kindness of a brother in Christ. To avoid the 
malaria and heat of the town, the residents have built 
their dwellings over a large plain, which extends sev- 
eral miles in the interior, and is intersected by the 
finest roads. 

January 24. — Yesterday, (Sabbath.) attended three 
services in the mission chapel — two in English and 
one in Malay. Mr. M. is in the habit of having 
another service for those who speak the native lan- 
guage in town, and frequently in one of the prisons, 
so that the day is filled up with active exertions. He 
is assisted by Mr. William Young, a young man who 
is capable of holding service in Malay, understands 
much of Chinese, and whose ability and zeal in his 
Master's service, render him a valuable acquisition to 
the mission. There is another young person connect- 
ed with the mission, a native Amboynese, who appears 
to have been truly converted to God within the last 
year. 

Java is well known as one of the most import- 
ant colonial possessions attached to any European 

15 



JAVA. 



crown. More than two centuries have passed away 
since the Dutch became masters of some of its best 
districts, and during all this time it has been in the 
hands of nations professing Protestantism. Like the 
other possessions of the Dutch, it has received its 
share of chaplains ; but compared with the active zeal 
displayed in enlightening the natives of some of the 
other islands, scarcely any attempts appear to have 
been made for the conversion of Java. 

" The island/' writes one who resides there,- and 
has long had the best opportunities of obtaining the 
most correct information, i; contains a population of 
six millions — four of whom speak the Javanese lan^ 
guage, one and a half the Sunda, and half a million 
the Malayan. Its three principal towns are Batavia, 
Samarang, and Soerabaya, Batavia contains, within 
a circuit of twenty miles, three hundred thousand 
souls, of whom thirty thousand are Chinese. Sama- 
rang has about two hundred thousand natives and ten 
thousand Chinese, and Soerabaya about three hun- 
dred thousand natives and five thousand Chinese. 
There are besides, about ten thousand Chinese scat- 
tered about in various parts of the island. These 
three principal towns are frequently visited by stran- 
gers, and no foreigners, who have not excited the dis- 
pleasure of government, have been refused permission 
to reside in them. 

" The Dutch systematically avoid establishing mis- 
sions among Mahommetans, and endeavor to thrust 
their missionaries away into bye places as much as 
possible. Hence on the whole island of Java, entire- 
ly under their own dominion, they have not a single 



3 AT Am 



165 



missionary. Formerly, two missionaries were station- 
ed at Christian villages, but with the exclusive object 
of ministering to those who already professed Chris- 
tianity. These are both dead.* 

" The two missionaries on the island are stationed 
at Batavia and Soerabaya. The first has been allow- 
ed to become a burgher, which entitles him to the right 
of residence, the permanent tenure of property, and 
the liberty of traveling through any part of the colo- 
ny. He has never experienced the least hindrance 
from government in the prosecution of his work. The 
*>ther missionary has not been so much favored. The 
authorities interfered in the midst of a most interest- 
ing work, and his testaments and tracts, which the ea- 
ger natives flocked in thousands to receive, were all 
seized. At Soerabaya, some good people have formed 
themsel ves into an auxiliary missionary society, estab- 
lished a school for heathen children, and exerted 
themselves in preparing and distributing tracts among 
the natives. They have done much, and would effect 
more if a missionary resided among them. 

" There is an opening for missionaries at Batavia, 
Samarang, and Soerabaya : every facility would be 
afforded by their brethren, in two of these settlements. 
Assistance in the native languages, books, residence, 
and advice, would be most freely given." The New 



* ■" It may here be observed, that the missionaries formerly sent out 
by the Dutch Society were illiterate men, which added to the general 
prejudice against missionary efforts, tended to bring their office into 
-contempt. Since then, the character and qualifications of their mis- 
sionaries have greatly improved, but the prejudice still continues 
strong against them, and it seems indigenous to a Dutchman's mind 
L.g consider a missionary as vastly inferior to a settled minister." 



156 



JAVA. 



Testament and other books have been translated into 
the Javanese, which, with the numerous Christian 
works printed in the Malay and Chinese languages, 
afford the greatest advantages for effecting immediate 
good. 

The writer having accepted the kind invitation of 
Mr. and Mrs. Medburst, to take up his residence with 
them, devoted his time principally in accompanying 
the missionary in his daily labors among the heathen, 
and in studying that dialect of the Chinese language 
which is the most current in their foreign settlements. 
A journal of events, kept at the time, has already 
been published. A few extracts will give the reader 
an idea of the nature of the field, and the necessity of 
aid in its cultivation. 

January 26th. — Spent part of this morning among 
the Chinese residents in town. Mr. M. generally de- 
votes a portion of every day to visiting the natives and 
Chinese, for the purpose of conversing and distribu- 
ting tracts. In every house where there appears to be 
a probability of engaging the occupants in conversa- 
tion, he enters — sometimes by invitation — generally 
" sans ceremonie." 

The Chinese sense of politeness is such, as always 
to secure him a reception sufficient for his purpose. 
If not too much occupied, they listen with apparent 
attention, and receive the tracts readily. To the 
dwellings of the Malay there is not the same liberty 
of access. 

February 4th. — In our usual round, we visited a 
hospital to-day, where the leprous, blind, and deranged 
are kept. Of the former class, were some of the most 



JAVA. 



167 



miserable objects I ever beheld. Unable to leave their 
couch, with limbs partially consumed, withered, and 
covered with a loathsome ulceration, they were pecu- 
liarly calculated to impress the mind with a sense of 
the more deplorable, and, by human means, equally 
incurable malady of the heart, of which this dreadful 
infliction is an emblem, and was a punishment. 
64 Who maketh thee to differ from another V 

One of therm mentioned to Mr. Medhurst that he 
believed his disease was the punishment of sin, in 
a former life, according to their notion of the metem- 
phsychosis ; and when referred to the demerit of guilt 
in the present existence, as a more plausible, and an 
adequate reason, pointed most significantly in reply, to 
a youth of but twelve years of age, who was a much 
greater sufferer, and on M.'s presumption, a less guilty 
sinner than himself. Among the blind, was quite a 
youth, who could not imagine why he should be thus 
severely visited, since he once saved the life of a fel- 
low being, at the hazard of his own. Self-righteous- 
ness with its consequence — a disposition to murmur 
against the afflictive dispensations of Providence, alas, 
how prevalent in every country ! 

Mr. Medhurst frequently avails himself of the mo- 
ral precepts of their sages, as an admitted rule of con- 
duct, and then, upon their confession of guilt, declares 
the only way in which God can be just, and the . sin- 
ner justified. 

February 5th. — Have just returned from an inter- 
esting visit to one of the bazaars ; about two or three 
thousand natives and Chinese were collected. The 
latter compose the great majority of tradesmen in Ba- 

15* 



m 



JAVA, 



tavia, being more ingenious, active, shrewd, and gain- 
seeking than the natives. Wherever money is to be 
made by dint of traffic, manufacture, gambling or gul- 
ling. Chinamen are sure to be found. Acquainted 
from long experience with the best mode of gaining 
his object, M. went directly into a part of the market, 
where the men generally resort after their most im- 
portant business is finished, to purchase as much to- 
bacco as they require before the next market day. 
The anxieties of trade have so far subsided before 
they reach this place, as to render it much less diffi- 
cult to secure their attention to an object, which yields 
no immediate palpable advantage. His success in 
gaining their audience, and in awakening a desire to 
obtain books, was truly animating. In a very short 
time his budget of tracts — many of them of a large 
size, as the Gospel of Matthew, had entirely disap- 
peared. 

What is remarkable and very encouraging, is the 
surprising change evinced in the disposition of the 
natives within the last year. Until this recent date, 
he was obliged to return with the number of his 
books undiminished. He scarcely succeeded in dis- 
tributing a dozen copies in as many months, on ac- 
count of the influence and dread of their Mahomme- 
tan priests and rulers. Since the commencement of 
this happy, and as far as visible means are concerned, 
unaccountable change in the minds of the people, 
hundreds have been distributed without the least dif- 
ficulty. 

Another fact, full of promise, connected with the 
reception of these books, is the eagerness of the natives 



JAVA. 



169 



to understand their contents, and the means they of- 
ten employ to obtain this knowledge. It is said, that 
those unacquainted with letters will go through their 
villages to have the books read, and that rather than 
remain ignorant of their truths, they will carry them 
to the chief men, and even the priests themselves, 
M. says that these very rulers and priests, who 
were formerly so distant and ill-disposed toward him 
and his poison^ have condescended to come and solicit 
Christian books for their own perusal. Yet nothing 
beyond the simple disposition to receive and read these 
books, has thus far appeared. The valley remains in 
deathful silence, and the bones are very dry; but the 
prophet has entered ; thus saith the Lord God/' be- 
gins to be heard, and we look and pray for the breath 
of Jehovah to come and breathe upon the slain. 

14th. — Yesterday, (Sabbath,) besides the ordinaty 
English and Malay services in the mission chapel, we 
visited a large prison containing about three hundred 
native convicts. The missionary, or one of the young 
men who assist him, holds service here every Sabbath. 
It was a subject of considerable anxiety to the prison- 
ers, chiefly Mahommetans, at the commencement of 
these religious exercises, to ascertain the precise ob- 
jects of the preacher. Some imagined that the re- 
demption to which he referred, was deliverance from 
chains and imprisonment. Others were filled with 
apprehension, and fancied from his statements of the 
evil and demerit of sin, that they were forthwith to 
be sold as slaves, and transported to some distant 
country. 

With a few exceptions, they all assembled beneath 



170 



JAVA. 



a cluster of large shady trees, and remained in a sitting 
posture, until the services were closed. The counte- 
nances of many of them disclosed an interest in the 
subject, which could not fail to animate the speaker. 
One of the prisoners who died a short time since, 
gave pleasing evidence of the benefit of these instruc- 
tions, and confided his departing spirit into the hands 
of the Savior, of whom he had heard in this place of 
confinement. Thus the very prison may become the 
gate of heaven, and the fetters of the guilty, the ap- 
pointed instrument to keep them back from destruction, 
and " compel them to come in." 

17th. — For nearly a week, the Chinese have been 
enjoying their greatest holyday. It is with them, the 
season of new year ; work is generally suspended — 
their best robes are displayed — children are loaded 
with costly ornaments, and carried in complimentary 
form from house to house, while the best wishes for 
temporal prosperity, a long purse and life, are inter- 
changed. The tables groan beneath their luxurious 
burdens — the gods are supplied with every variety of 
eatables, and their faces are tinged with the smoke of 
tapers and incense. Every one yields himself up to 
pleasure ; and gambling, the delight of the nation, 
groups its votaries " in the house and by the way- 
side." 

When we enter their dwellings, tea is generally 
handed round in small cups, and the pipe is seldom 
used before they offer it to the visitor. 

Here, as at Canton, the most common figure, before 
which they offer their sacrifices, is the representative 
of an ancient deified hero, called in the Mandarin dia- 



JAVA. 



171 



lect, Kwanfootze. He has been adopted by the reign- 
ing Tartar family as their patron deity. An imperial 
proclamation was issued, commanding the homage of 
the whole empire to this pretended god of war. In 
every painting he appears as an exceeding gross, ill- 
favored being, with an idiotical formation of head, 
small lengthened eyes, running up the forehead, brows 
extending to an elevation of nearly forty-five degrees ; 
ears reaching almost in a line with the top of the head, 
with a forehead not unlike the upper part of a cone, 
and cheeks and chin resembling its extended base. 
To this is addsd a long spare beard, which he is stro- 
king in calm reflection with his right hand. 

Behind his chair stands a black figure, said to rep- 
resent an adjutant — holding a huge weapon in his 
hand, with a countenance of deadly rage, his eyes 
bursting from their swollen sockets — and in a stoop- 
ing posture, as if communicating the most exaspera- 
ting intelligence to the unruffled warrior. 

The former, though the most common, is by no 
means the only image employed for religious purposes, 
A celebrated Esculapius, of whose surgical and magi- 
cal powers the most fabulous legends are preserved 
and credited, often occupies the place appointed for 
the deity, on the wall opposite the door of entrance, 
and receives the adoration of the household. He is 
painted in the act of conjuring an invisible being, 
with his face toward the heavens, and a small wand 
in his outstretched hand, while a hideous figure an- 
swering to their idea of a dragon — which they ima- 
gine to be the chief agent in the kingdom of Provi- 
dence — answers the summons, and appears in the 



172 



JAVA, 



clouds. Other representations are often preferred, not 
unfrequently the form of a female, and by some, mere- 
ly the Chinese character for spirit, happiness, long 
life, wealth, &c. Small images placed before these 
paintings are also common. 

21st. — In our rounds to-day, we met a Chinaman 
from the province of Teo-chew, or Tay-chew, who 
related some of the horrid cruelties practiced upon the 
female infants of the common people. He says the 
custom of infanticide is almost universal among this 
class of the community. If the parent supposes that 
the marriage portion received for the bride, will be 
greater than the expense of bringing her up, she is 
allowed to live ; but if he apprehends straightened 
circumstances before, or a failure at the time, she is 
always dispatched. The disproportion of sexes is so 
great, that in a village of three thousand men, not 
more than three or four hundred can procure wives. 
If you expostulate with them on their worse than 
brutal cruelty, they reply with the most unnatural ap- 
athy, "rice is dear, and no benefit will accrue to us 
from raising these children. As soon as they are 
married, they become the property of another, and as 
they are not allowed to marry relations, or even those 
of the same family name, they join another clan, and 
only support them in their rivalry.'' 

March 22d. — Arose early, and rode about eighteen 
or twenty miles in the country, to a village inhabited 
by natives and Chinese, and containing a few Euro- 
pean dwellings. We selected Tuesday, because it is 
the principal market day in the week. The Amboy- 
nese convert^ to whom reference has been made, starts 



f±VA< 



ed yesterday afternoon, with about two hundred Ma^ 
lay tracts, and as many Chinese. On our arrival we 
found him surrounded by the natives, and actively 
engaged in his interesting work. 

The scene was one of lively interest. Wherever 
the teacher took his station, a crowd resorted, and lis- 
tened attentively to the doctrines of the gospel. That 
the truth might be the more widely proclaimed, every 
part of the bazaar was visited, and in the course of 
two hours, not a tract remained in our possession. 

There was much of that melancholy interest on the 
road, which is felt in passing through the deserted ru- 
ins of a once populous city. Extensive avenues of 
trees, courts overgrown with shrubbery, and gate- 
posts still standing, mark the situations, where, in 
days of eastern prosperity, large mansions appeared, 
Batavia presents many such relics of the past age, im- 
pressing upon the mind the moral of those changes, 
which a thoughtless world dreading, hasten upon 
themselves. To many of the living it requires no 
stretch of memory, and to the young, no strength of 
fancy, to conjure up the scenes of life and gaiety in 
which the past generation figured. Stately buildings 
adorn the face of the country — the festive halls are 
lighted — the giddy throng assemble —peals of exhila- 
rating music swell upon the ear, and for a moment en- 
trance the soul ; successive nights are spent in feast- 
ing, and every species of amusement ; and the as- 
sembly breaks up, only to restore their flagging pow- 
ers for another encounter. 

A living witness informed me, that he had been 
present when two hundred were invited, and where 



m 



JAVA, 



the revel continued for as much of three successive 
days and nights, as the powers of nature would ad- 
mit, He has known balls with their luxurious ac- 
companiments to be kept up> at one house, for three 
consecutive nights, 

But there are other visions of an opposite charac- 
ter, associated in fancy with the history of Batavia, 
and called up by these desolations. The place is one 
aeeldema, where residents and visitors, natives and 
strangers, men of every country, class, and clime, have 
found a common grave, 

It must have required more than an ordinary strug- 
gle to debar from the minds of the gradually thinning, 
and still assembling votaries of pleasure, the intru- 
ding question, " Who of us shall meet again ?" "What 
a strange, unnatural connection, between the powerful 
ravages of death, and the thoughtless revels of the 
dying ! It is like decking the victims of the mon- 
ster with the votive wreath, and leading them gaily 
forth to the dreaded altar.* 

March 25th. — An hour was spent this morning in 
conversation with a number of Cochin-Chinese. It 
was conducted partly in French, a limited knowledge 
of which they had acquired from the Roman Catholic 
priests in their country, partly in Malay, picked up in 
trading, and partly by means of the Chinese written 
character. They professed the Catholic religion, and 
evinced a degree of caution and bigotry, which had 

* If from what has been ascribed to an exhausting sun and pesti- 
lential malaria, were deducted the effects of the excitable and irregu- 
lar living of the East, Batavia, and other tropical regions, would be 
stripped of many of those sepulchral associations with which they are 
now shrouded. 



JAVA* 



173 



no doubt bfeen inspired by their caculating leaders. 
To employ their own expression, there were thousands 
upon thousands of Catholics in the country, and 
priests from France, Portugal^ Bengal and America. 
They spoke of convents belonging to different orders 
of monks. It was quite evident from their questions 
and remarks that they had been apprised of the exer- 
tions of Protestants, and prepared for a probable en- 
counter* 

A tract was presented, containing nothing obnox- 
ious to Catholicism, but their imagination soon fur- 
nished it with the most pernicious doctrines, and 
though they did not read a single page, they were 
perfectly aware of its soul destroying contents. Their 
principal objections to the religion of the Dutch and 
English were, the want of celibacy among the priests, 
and of auricular confession among the people. They 
spoke of the instruction they had derived from cate- 
chisms — such as the frequent worship of £f la tres 
sainte rierge," but upon being asked if they had read 
the Bible, replied in Chinese, it was forbidden, disap- 
proved, adding in French, li It is contraband. " One of 
them inquired of M. how many disciples he had, 
The indirect reply was, that he deemed something 
beyond the mere profession indispensable to true re- 
ligion, and consequently never included in such an 
estimate, those who were not sincere, " Ah/' said the 
shrewd inquirer, " the fault is in your doctrines : if 
they were true, there would be no lack of genuine 
disciples." He was asked what he considered true 
doctrine. " Oh," said he ironically, " your books are 
full of it," But you know nothing of the contents of 

16 



m 



JAVl,- 



our books, and how are you qualified to condemn 
them. " I have no time/ 5 said he, " to prattle any 
longer with you," and waited only long enough to 
hear that the truth was of sufficient importance to de- 
mand his time, and that a good man ought to make it 
a matter of most diligent inquiry.* 

This then is the effect of Romanism, falsely termed 
Christianity, and this the barrier it erects against the 
pure doctrines of the cross. If the word of these 
men can be relied on, how widely prevalent must be 
its errors, and anti-christian its influence in Cochin- 
China. 

March 29th. — Having made arrangements to make 
a tour of about sixteen or eighteen miles in the coun- 
try, we arose this morning and pursued our journey 
some distance by the light of the moon. The un- 
disturbed serenity of the hour — the somber shade of 
the forest, and the pale beauties of the open land- 
scape — the freshness of the dewy morning, and above 
all, the tranquilizing influence of the moon with its 
thousand associations, combined to produce the most 
delightful effect upon the mind sobered by a tempora- 
ry suspension of thought, and still unruffled by the 
cares of the day. 



* Since writing the above, ten Roman Catholic Missionaries, in- 
cluding four natives and six Europeans, have arrived at Batavia, on 
their way to Cochin-Chin a. According to their statement, there are 
three hundred thousand Roman Catholics in Cochin-China and Ton- 
quin. According to the authority upon which the number of Catho- 
lics is given in China, there are in Tonquin and Cochin-China, four 
Bishops, fifteen European missionaries, upwards of one hundred na- 
tive missionaries, and more than four hundred thousand converts. 
More than three fourths of this number are in Tonquin, now subject 
to Cochin-China. 



JAVA. 



177 



0n account of the frequent rains, and the bad state 
of those roads which are not kept at the expense of 
government, we were obliged to exchange our mode 
of conveyance after the first four miles, and make the 
whole of the remaining journey on horseback. Such 
was the depth and tenacity of the mud in some spots, 
that the horses could scarcely proceed, and the bridges 
which were covered with a wicker work of bamboo 5 
were so wet and smooth before the sun appeared, that 
once my horse slipt and fell in an instant, and had it 
not been for a sudden and successful feat of agility, by 
which I found myself standing at his side, my limbs 
would probably have been crushed. 

There was nothing remarkable in the face of the 
country. The land was generally level, the smaller 
elevations being selected for the site of native villages, 
and the low grounds covered with rice. We passed 
near the establishment of the former Rajah of the isl- 
and. The only insignia of royalty remaining, are 
three or four beautiful waringin trees, always planted 
in Java before the houses of native princes. 

One of the descendants of the royal family joined 
us on horseback, and continued some distance in the 
way we were traveling. He conversed sensibly on 
the subject of religion, and although professedly Ma- 
homedan, did not pretend to palliate the evil conse- 
quences of some of the prophet's doctrines, nor refuse 
to receive a Christian book. 

About nine o'clock we reached a small settlement 
of Portuguese, whose ancestors, by the might and 
power of the sword, were obliged to renounce Catholi- 
cism md erflbr&ce the Protestant faith, Having left 



JAVA, 



word that we would return in time to preach, we con- 
tinued our journey about three miles farther, to the 
market place. 

In this parttof our way the country was adorned 
with the most extensive groves of cocoa-nuts I ever 
beheld. The oil of this nut is much employed by 
the natives, both in their cooking and in anointing 
their bodies. By the time we reached our destination, 
the rays of the sun were very oppressive ; but the 
sheds under which the natives assembled afforded 
some relief, and enabled us to prosecute our labors. 
Mr. M. and the Amboynese convert who accompanied 
us, spent two or three hours in preaching to the na- 
tives and distributing books. The crowd was not as 
great as at other places we had visited, although the 
tracts were disposed of with little difficulty. 

We noticed two or three young men, better habited 
and in appearance more intelligent than the common 
class, whose conduct betrayed their opposition to our 
object. Having watched their suspicious movement, 
and found that they were not satisfied with what tracts 
they had procured, but were impudently helping them- 
selves to others, M. took from them what they had re- 
ceived, and refused to give them a single one. This 
determined measure had the desired eifect ; they soon 
disappeared. 

We returned to the Portuguese settlement about 
mid-day, and after resting an hour, and taking some 
refreshment, were invited to the house of God, by the 
familiar tones of the church-going bell. About thirty 
convened in an old building erected in 1674, after the 
ancient style of Dutch architecture. Mr. Medhurst 



JAVA. 



179 



addressed the assembly, endeavoring to impress some 
of the lessons of Christianity, which it is very evident 
they knew merely in theory. They had been favor- 
ed with the labors of a missionary, whose bones now 
repose before the door of the church. To me, the 
occasion was unusually impressive, and though I un- 
derstood but little of the language, my reflections 
were I hope not without profit. It was strange to 
find a house dedicated to God amid these wilds of hea- 
thenism—strange that it should have stood a century 
and a half in such a place, and still more deplorable 
than strange that its light should have been so com- 
pletely lost during all this time, in the darkness that 
surrounds it. 

I was surprised and grieved to find that the mis- 
sionary conceived himself under no obligations to 
preach to the unchristianized natives, and that their 
unhallowed feet were not allowed to tread the thresh- 
hold of this sacred place. No wonder its own chil- 
dren have dwindled to a handful, and its light become 
well nigh extinct. 

March 31st. — This evening, attended service in the 
Dutch church, preparatory to the sacrament. This 
ordinance is administered twice a year in Batavia, one 
of these occasions being on good Friday, which oc- 
curs to-morrow. When we entered, the clerk was 
reading the Bible, and continued until the dominie 
commenced. Singing and reading the Scriptures are 
always continued half an hour before the service, du- 
ring which time it is expected that the congregation 
will assemble. 

The order of service was very different from that 
16* 



180 



JAVA* 



observed in the Dutch churches in America. The 
minister commenced by pronouncing a blessing upon 
the congregation, which was received standing, after 
which a hymn was sung, the exordium remotum de- 
livered, and prayer offered. Then the text was an- 
nounced, and the first division of the subject exhaust- 
ed, which was followed by singing, a long exhorta- 
tion to alms-giving, and two collections for the church 
and the poor. These were received in the black bag. 
with a small bell at the bottom. When the exhorta- 
tion to charity was concluded, the deacons left their 
places, and the second division of the subject was re- 
sumed, and continued amid the noise and confusion 
of their employment, and probably half an hour after 
they had finished. Another hymn was then sung, 
after which all who expected to commune on the ap- 
proaching day, were requested to arise and answer a 
number of questions in regard to their faith. With 
a very few exceptions, the whole congregation arose. 
This was succeeded by a prayer, the publication of 
new members, a hymn, and the blessing. My com- 
panion, who understood the sermon, repeated its sub- 
stance on our return home. The subject was the bu- 
rial of the Savior by Joseph of Arimathea, and Nico- 
demus. The speaker was animated and eloquent, but 
his exhibition of doctrine and character was lamenta- 
bly defective. 

The Dutch church in these islands was planted 
nearly the time, when our fathers colonized New Am- 
sterdam. That zeal for the Savior's glory, and at- 
tachment to the doctrines of her standards, character- 
ized the eastern branch of the mother church equally 



JAVA* 



181 



with the western, is proved by historic testimony, 
We have one of the least ambiguous evidences of this 
fact in the ardor and enterprise with which her minis- 
ters engaged in the duty of evangelizing the heathen 
around them. The Bible was translated — -works of 
much utility and merit were written— preaching was 
commenced — schools opened — in fact, every thing 
which could be attempted for the heathen^ was done 
by these men ; missionary societies were then un- 
known. 

How long the church continued unimpeachable in 
doctrines and morals, we have no data to determine. 
The history as far as it goes, and tradition subsequent- 
ly, depend for their faithfulness so much upon the sen- 
timents of those by whom they were written or pre- 
served, that unless we can determine the character of 
the recorder or narrator, we cannot decide upon the 
right interpretation of his facts. 

The deterioration of the churches at home ; the 
neglecting to appoint chaplains, when the company 
was disorganized ; the subordination of the ministry 
to the secular power ;* the dissipated habits of Eastern 
society, added to the worldly spirit and unsound faith 
of many of the chaplains, are quite sufficient to ac- 
count for the sad change which came over this once 
flourishing part of the Savior's vineyard. 

April 5th. — To day is the commencement of the 
cheng beng in the Mandarin dialect, tsing ming sea- 
son, when the Chinese repair to the graves of the de- 



* This may result as much from the management of the local offi- 
cers as from the disposition of the general government. 



182 



JAVA. 



ceased and sacrifice to their manes, Desirous of im- 
proving the opportunity of usefulness, we visited the 
largest cemetery in the vicinity of Batavia. and spent 
part of the morning in conversation and distributing 
tracts. Many thousands were present, though in none 
could we discover that solemnity, or sadness of asso- 
ciation, which we generally connect with the place of 
the dead, and which might be thought to result from 
communion with invisible spirits. 

The graves, with a few exceptions, were adorn- 
ed with colored paper : one of the sepulchers of 
the great was covered with mats, and converted into 
a scene of pompous ceremony and shameful carousal. 
This tomb was more magnificent than any thing of 
the kind I had seen in China. It occupied enough 
ground to bury one hundred men in ordinary graves, 
was composed of a high and spacious mound, with a 
platform of cement in front, surrounded with a wall, 
and decorated with pilasters of the same material. 
Two hideous stone figures, more like lions than any 
other creatures of earthly shape, were seated on pe- 
destals to guard the entrance. On the platform, cov- 
ering an area of about fifty feet by twenty, was spread 
a table, with a great variety of viands, fruits, preserves. 
&-c. denominated a sacrifice to the dead, but design- 
ed to gorge the living. Before the table two men 
were kneeling, one with his head to the ground, the 
other holding a small tablet in his hand, from which 
he read for the information of the departed spirit, an 
address concerning the devotion of the relatives, and 
their desire to be reciprocally honored. The tablet 
was pronounced in a corruption of the Mandarin dia- 



JAVA. 



183 



lectj which is generally considered the most dignified 
expression of the Chinese character. This being 
performed, the men arose, the assembly began to talk 
and laugh, the music struck up, and the dead were 
soon forgotten. We did not remain to witness the rev- 
el which ensues.* 

Stages were erected before the temple, upon which 
children were acting for the amusement of the popu- 
lace. Mr. Medhurst was interrupted in publishing 
the Gospel to this multitude, by a deranged China- 
man, who has either conceived a strange disposition 
to ridicule the missionary, or been incited by others to 
oppose him. He appeared with a book in his hand, 
and after the manner of M. pretended to quote a pas- 
sage and explain it to the people His conversation 
to-day was very obscene: generally he conceives a 
most absurd sentiment, which he gravely repeats in 
the reading dialect, as though borrowed from some 
sacred book, and then descants on its meaning in tlie 
colloquial, to the great amusement of his auditory. 
Many tracts were distributed, and instructive sentir 
ments expressed before we returned. 

7th. — This morning visited a temple dedicated to 
Twa-Sai-Yah, the son of a mandarin, who presided 



* The tombs of the wealthy generally face a pond of water, and ex- 
tend to its edge. The Chinese have a strange superstition connected 
with what they term "fungshuy," which expression means, wind 
and water, and appears to be applied to the science of determining 
the sites of buildings and graves. When the dead are displeased 
with the situation of their sepulcherSj some temporal calamity — gene- 
rally a want of success in making money, is thought to be a certain 
evidence and infliction. A small temple is erected on the ground, 
most frequently dedicated to the god of happiness, and believed to con? 
ciliate the spirit of the place. 



184 



JAVA. 



over the district of Tea. Twa, Fokien province. The 
image is represented with an extended sword in the 
right hand. The father was appointed to office du- 
ring the present dynasty, and it is remarkable that the 
alledged circumstance for which the son was deified, 
so incredible in its nature, and yet so widely credited, 
should be of such a recent date. On the arrival of 
the mandarin to the place of his appointment, he was 
informed that a gigantic snail, or rather an incarnate 
elf under that form, held its abode in a lake or pond 
of the district, and annually devoured hundreds of 
men. 

The same fact was stated to the son of the officer, 
a heroic youth, who seized a sword, plunged in the 
pond, and appeared no more. The water was drain- 
ed, and the young man was found standing upon the 
monster, having transfixed his body, and rather than 
lose his prey, held him in that position, until they both 
had perished. 

The men who have erected the temple we visited, 
and who came from that district of China, say that 
the shell of this huge creature has been employed for 
an incense vase, in a temple erected to the honor of the 
hero, ever since the event : and that it measures one 
yard in diameter. It is from a strange idea that dis- 
tinguished men on earth are equally distinguished 
in heaven, and capable of affording assistance to mor- 
tals, that they are induced to multiply their temples, 
upon the demise of every extraordinary character. 

Mr. M. has witnessed some of the incantations 
which they practice, to obtain the inspiration of such 
deified men. Upon the performance of some ridiciu 



JAVA* 



185 



lotis cefemony, the subject becomes convulsed, exerts 
himself with violence, frequently cuts his body with a 
sword, and when necessarily composed from the exhaus- 
tion of effort and pain, is thought to be tranquilized 
by the influence of the deity, and prepared to answer 
such questions as are proposed. As the inquiries are 
generally about matters of deep interest, his replies 
are noted down with all possible dispatch, and his ad- 
vice carefully and confidently followed. The evi- 
dence of true inspiration^ is the rapidity with which 
his wounds heal, and the success which attends his 
prescriptions. 

How far Satan may be allowed to assist in these 
delusions, none can determine ; but that there is some^ 
thing like infernal intervention, or most stupid credu- 
lity, perhaps both, is very probable to those who have 
any tolerable acquaintance with heathen lands. 

April 14. — -This afternoon, we rode about six miles 
in the county and attended a Chinese ceremony, 
which reminded us of the " bloody rites of Moloch." 
It occurs on the birth-day of one of the Taou gods, 
and is performed by running barefoot through a large 
heap of ignited charcoal. The pile was about ten or 
twelve feet square, and nearly two feet in hight. It 
threw out an intense heat. The crowd was large, and 
the crash of gongs almost deafening. On our arrival 
we found two priests standing near the fire, earnestly 
reading a book, though the noise drowned their voi- 
ces, and performing a variety of strange acts, which 
they appeared to derive from its pages. One of them 
held a cow's horn in his hand, with which he occa- 
sionally assisted the noise, while the other, after burn- 



186 



JAVA. 



mg paper, and making his obeisance, advanced to the 
fire, sprinkled water upon the heapj struck it violently 
with a sword, threw in more of the paper, bowed his 
head, and frequently gazed upwards with an expres- 
sion of most intense earnestness.- his body being, as 
might be supposed, bathed in perspiration. After this, 
they both approached the fire, went through a num- 
ber of antics, and finally dashed through the coals, 
A passage was kept clear from an adjacent temple to 
the spot, and as soon as the priests had set the example, 
a number of persons, old and young, came running 
from the temple with idols in their hands, and carried 
them through the fire. Others followed the example, 
and among them an old man. who rather staggered 
than walked in the midst of the heap. This part of 
the ceremony lasted but a few minutes, and the crowd 
soon dispersed. 

It is thought to be a test of the moral character of 
those who attempt it. If they have a "true heart, 33 
and faith in the god, they are never injured. It is 
performed by some in fulfillment of a vow made in 
times of danger or necessity. One of the votaries 
last year fell down in the midst of the pile, and was 
severely burned. Our budget of Chinese tracts was 
disposed of as speedily as they could be handed out. 
Indeed, it was necessary to check their violence in 
snatching them away. 

26th. — Mr. Medhurst has generally a number of 
schools, both Malay and Chinese, in which Christian 
books are introduced, and over which himself and 
Mr. Young maintain a strict superintendence. The 
parents are willing that he should have the direction 



JAVA* 



IS? 



of the school, on condition that he pay a proportion 
of the teacher's wages* I have visited them a number 
of times, and was favorably impressed with the course 
pursued, in rendering intelligible to their minds the 
truths of Christianity, and the absurdity of Paganisms 
It is certainly one of the most effectual means which 
could be adopted, of establishing the one system upon 
the ruins of the other. 

In striking contrast with these, and indeed, with 
all schools conducted on the ordinary principles of 
teaching at home, are the attempts of the native 
school-masters, to instruct their pupils, 

This morning we walked a short distance in the 
country, to distribute tracts in the adjacent campongs, 
and among the travelers who are constantly passing to 
and from the town. The noise of school-boys attract- 
ed our attention, and upon coming to the shed in 
which they were assembled, we found fifteen of the 
native children conning the Arabic Koran in a loud 
sing-song tone. Not seeing the teacher, we inquired 
for him, and found that he was employed in cultiva- 
ting his land, some distance from them, while they 
amused themselves in this unprofitable exercise. The 
teacher confessed that he did not understand what 
was contained in the book, and that he was persuaded 
of the unprofitableness of such instructions as he 
could give ; but he said the importunity of the pa- 
rents imposed a necessity upon him. 

To read the Koran in a certain tone of voice, 
without comprehending a word of its meaning, is the 
object, if not the achme, of education, among the in- 
dolent Malays* The advantage is, that they become 

17 



183 



JAVA. 



acquainted with the Arabic character, which is effi^ 
ployed in writing their own language, and which as- 
sists them to understand Christian books in the ver- 
nacular. They are generally willing to hear any con- 
versation on religion, and seldom refuse a tract, espe- 
cially when its contents are previously made the sub- 
ject of remark. 

May 6th, (Friday.) — On Wednesday morning, six 
o'clock, we left this place in a government vehicle, 
and reached Bitenzorg, the residence of the governor, 
in about four hours. The distance is thirty-nine 
miles. The governor, it is said, performs the journey 
in two hours and a half, or three hours, and men of 
less distinction and fewer advantages, generally in 
four. Our conveyance was exceedingly shabby, and 
the horses puny and way-worn. Although apprehen- 
sive that the old vehicle might give way, nothing oc- 
curred to stop our progress, but the escape of one of 
the poneys, which, by some unaccountable means, 
cleared himself from the harness^ and took another 
direction. 

The palace, as the residence of the governor is 
called, is rather a splendid edifice, built in the form of 
a crescent, though with a glaring architectural blun- 
der. It has one window more on oue side, than the 
other, which, when standing in front of the door, 
makes the building appear as though it had a deficien- 
cy in the curve. It has a park in front, stocked with 
deer, and an extensive garden in the rear, laid out 
and ornamented in a handsome style. The plot is 
undulating, the walks are broad and w T ell graveled, 
the trees and shrubbery rare and beautiful, and the 



JAVA. 



189 



scene is adorned with lakes, bridges, a small island, 
jet d'eau, and a cascade. It is kept at an expense to 
government of seven thousand rupees a month. 

Between Bitenzorg and the neighboring mountains, 
which lift their lofty heads ten or eleven thousand feet 
above the sea, the face of the country is much more 
diversified and beautiful than the low unvarying level 
of Batavia. We were in hopes of having a clear 
view of the crater, the smoke from which is distinct- 
ly seen from Batavia ; but an intervening peak com- 
pletely hid it from our sight before we reached Biten- 
zorg. Among the objects of curiosity in this place, 
is an old tablet, the characters of which, as far as the 
knowledge of numerous visitors go, are entirely dis- 
tinct from any thing to be found in present use, or in 
antiquarian research. 

Our time was spent in visiting the Chinese and na- 
tive villages, and distributing tracts. The Chinese 
camp, as their settlements are denominated, is exten- 
sive and populous. They listened attentively to the 
instructions of Mr. Medhurst, and received the books 
with pleasure. 

In our visits among the Javanese, we called upon 
the ex-royal family, who still exercise the highest 
functions entrusted by government to the natives. 
The establishment is very commodious, and though 
without splendor, much superior to any of their 
buildings I have yet seen. The present governor is 
fifty-seven years of age, and his father, who in his 
old age has become a Mahommedan priest, eighty- 
one. There are five generations of them now living, 
and the old man numbers no less than two hundred 



190 



JAVA* 



and fifty descendants upon earth. Our books were 
received at the palace with politeness, and a number 
of them distributed in the villages. 

The principal Chinaman in authority at Bitenzorg, 
returned to Batavia with us. Though without any 
apparent regard for Christianity, he appears so well 
persuaded of the absurdity and evil consequences of 
many of the established superstitions, that he has been 
opposing them, by all the weight of his authority, and 
with considerable success. A small temple, which 
they venerated for its mystic influence, has been remo- 
ved, and houses have been erected on its site. The 
custom of calling in, those to prescribe for the sick, 
whom they suppose capable of being possessed at op- 
tion, and to whose absurd vagaries they attach the 
highest virtue, has been abolished. The influence of 
the priests has been attacked and diminished, and 
other measures are contemplated, which will tend, 
though unintentionally on his part, to prepare the way 
for a purer and less cumbrous faith. Mr. M. spent 
much of the time in teaching the nature and enfor- 
cing the reasonableness of the Christian religion upon 
the mind of our fellow traveler. V\ e can go to no 
place, where there is not an extensive field of useful- 
ness, and all prepared to the laborer's hand. 

These facts, recorded at the time, show the exten- 
sive sphere for missionary exertion in Java. At the 
same time, they give but a very partial view of the 
various scenes of labor and interest, which might have 
been daily visited, had our number borne some tri- 
fling proportion to our opportunities of usefulness. 
The towns, the roads, the native schools, and above 



JAVA. 



191 



mil, the passers or bazaars, (as they are termed in India,) 
which are held in every part of the surrounding coun- 
try, furnish scope for the zeal of a large number of 
missionaries. 

These labors, with the regular services in English and 
Malay — the visitation of the Chinese — superintend- 
ence of schools — the never ending study of langua- 
ges and preparation of books ; besides all the various 
charitable objects in which the missionary must be 
the chief agent, and his own duties of every day's re- 
currence — constitute the immense burden which is 
made to rest with its chief weight upon the shoulders 
of one man. Soon may this neglected island receive 
the attention it claims of the Christian world. 

The three large settlements, Batavia, Samarang, 
and Soerabaya, ought to be immediately occupied, 
and made the head quarters of missionary operation. 
From these points " the light of life" might radiate, 
until the rays met in every part of this dark domain. 

The writer is obliged to add, with pain, that since 
the above was written, the prospect of unrestrained 
effort has assumed a less flattering aspect than when 
he resided at Batavia. Mr. Bruckner, who was ab- 
sent at the time from the island, for the purpose of 
printing some works in the Javanese language, and 
who returned soon afterwards, was arrested by the 
authorities, in the midst of a most interesting series 
of labors. The eager natives were thronging his 
house to receive the tracts he brought with him, when 
the government officers interfered, took away the 
books, and placed a veto upon their future distri- 
bution. 

i 



192 



JAVA. 



The following fact is extracted from the fifth num- 
ber of the first volume of the Chinese Repository — a 
work deserving the perusal of all who take an inter- 
est in the history, literature, religion, present condi- 
tion, and prospects of China and the neighboring 
kingdoms and islands : 

" The whole population of a small village, wishing 
to become Christians, and to be instructed in the truths 
of the gospel, requested the resident at Soerabaya to 
send them a teacher with Bibles ; which he refused, 
declaring that he would not allow them to become 
Christians, as they were quite happy enough without 
Christianity ; and further, that Christian tracts, in the 
Javanese language, have been confiscated, and the 
funds of the Dutch Bible Society occasionally applied 
to purposes merely literary." 

These facts certainly cannot have been rightly rep- 
resented to the King of Holland, or we have reason 
to believe the evils would soon be corrected. The 
bugbear of insurrection, by which those who oppose 
missions profess to be frightened themselves, and at- 
tempt to scare others, cannot alarm one who knows 
the tendency of Christian principles. We sincerely 
hope that the subject will be investigated by the au- 
thorities in the mother country, and that the present 
and eternal happiness of so many millions of souls, 
will not be allowed to yield to the cruel and unwise 
policy of a few local officers. If the same liberty 
which is enjoyed throughout every part of British 
India, were allowed the missionaries in this and the 
neighboring islands 3 rebellions would be no more fre- 



JAVA. 



193 



quent than in Hindostan, and the greatest advantage 
would soon be realized by all parties. 

Since the above was published in the first edition 
of this book, we have seen an extract of a letter from 
the King of Holland, to the Bible Society in Batavia, 
in which his majesty expresses his pleasure in hearing 
that the Scriptures had been translated into the Javan- 
ese tongue. The inference of course is, that the King 
is favorable to the distribution of the Bible among the 
millions of his deluded subjects in this island. We 
sincerely hope that measures will soon be taken to 
have this beautiful and populous region, brought un- 
der the benign influence of Christianity. 



1 



CHAPTER IX. 



PASSAGE FROM JAVA TO SINGAPORE. 

On Saturday evening, June 4th, embarked in the 
English ship Bencoolen, Captain Roberts, for Singa- 
pore. The next morning, before daybreak, we weigh- 
ed anchor, and availing ourselves of the land breeze, 
stood to sea. After sailing gently a day or two, and 
passing a few unimportant islands, we entered the 
straits of Banca, between the island of that name and 
Sumatra. The tin mines on Banea, in the possession 
of the Dutch, are said to yield a large quantity of good 
metal. 

The immense island of Sumatra, extending about 
one thousand miles in length, and varying from one 
to two hundred in breadth, lay before us like a motion- 
less sea. The maratime parts on both sides are low 
and marshy, though it is intersected longitudinally by 
chains of unequal mountains, some of them nearly as 
high as the loftiest summit of the Alps. We passed 
the mouths of several large rivers, the currents from 
which appeared to reach the opposite 'side of the strait. 

Sumatra is divided into a number of distinct, in- 
dependent kingdoms : the most important of which, 



196 



SUMATRA. 



are known by the names of Menangkaboo Bulla and 
Ballumary or Kampang. 

In former times, Menangkaboo held the empire of 
the whole island, and at the present day its Sultan com- 
bines the influence of a sovereign prince with that of a 
moslem pontiff. The Dutch, before their recent ex- 
pulsion and massacre, succeeded in conquering this 
strong hold of the country, and establishing them- 
selves, as they thought, in perpetual security. Had 
they retained their dearly bought possession, they 
could, in all probability, have commanded the resour- 
ces of the island. A carriage road connects this cen- 
tral spot with Padang, about half a day's journey to 
the west, and a large river opens a free communication 
between it and the east, through .which its products 
are transported to Singapore. The inhabitants of 
this ancient kingdom were early eon verted to Islam- 
ism. Pagarooyoong, its capital, is the chief resort of 
pilgrims of that religion, and was formerly the great 
seat of literature in the island. The natives of Me- 
nangkaboo are in advance of all their neighbors, in 
letters and the arts. They have borrowed the Ara- 
bic character, and their whole literature consists in 
transcripts from the Koran, and in bold historic tales.'" 
They have long been famed for the manufacture of 
arms, and for their delicate workmanship in gold. 

In the country of Balla. which includes the north- 
ern division of the island, is the famous kingdom of 
Acheen, with which foreigners are well acquainted. 
It carries on a considerable trade with parts of India- 
its Sultan being the principal merchant of the place. 
The inhabitants are more muscular, industrious and 



SUMATRA. 



19? 



sagacious, than the other natives of the island; they 
profess the faith of Mohammed, and are said by travel- 
ers to exemplify some of its sanguinary principles. 
Still they are under the iron sway of a hereditary des- 
potism, and subject to laws as rigorous as they are 
partial in their penal inflictions. The most severe 
punishments fall generally upon the lowest classes of 
society. 

The interior of this general division of the island, 
is the beautiful country of the Battahs, part of which 
stretches over a spacious campaign between two 
ridges of mountains, and is adorned with an extensive 
lake. According to Sir Stamford Raffles, who visited 
their country, " the Battahs are an extensive and pop- 
ulous nation of Sumatra, occupying the whole of 
that part of the island lying between Acheen and 
Menangkaboo, reaching to both the shores. The 
coast is but thinly inhabited ; but in the interior, the 
people are said to be as thick as the leaves of the fo- 
rest ; perhaps the whole nation may amount to be- 
tween one and two millions of souls. They have a 
regular government, deliberative assemblies, and are 
great orators. Nearly the whole of them write, and 
they possess a written character peculiar to themselves. 
In their language and terms, as well as in some of 
their laws and usages, the influence of Hindooism 
may be traced ; but they have also a religion peculiar 
to themselves. They acknowledge the one and only 
great God. and they have a trinity of great Gods, sup- 
posed to have been created by him." 

Other writers declare that they believe in two dei- 
ties of totally opposite character, and like the gene- 



1 93 



St MATH A, 



rality of heathen tribes, they are exceedingly super- 
stitious in matters of sorcery. 

Tappanooly and Natal are Dutch settlements, situ- 
ated in the very heart of the Battah country. Sir 
Stamford visited the former, ,{ with the determination 
to satisfy his mind respecting the reports of their 
cannibalism. Accordingly] he caused the most intel- 
ligent chiefs of that place to be assembled, and in the 
presence of witnesses, obtained the following informal 
tion : — It is the universal and standing law of the Bat- 
tahs. that death by eating shall be inflicted in the fol- 
io wins' cases. 1st. For adultery. 2d. For midnight 
robbery. 3d. In wars of importance — that is to say. 
in one district against another — the prisoners are sac- 
rificed. 4th. For intermarrying in the same tribe, 
which is forbidden from the circumstance of their 
having ancestors in common, and 5th. For a treach- 
erous attack on a house, village or person. n 

It is calculated, the same author affirms, that not 
less than from sixty to one hundred Battahs are annu- 
ally eaten, in times of peace. Formerly it was usual 
to eat their parents, when too old for work : this prac- 
tice, however, has been abandoned. When the par- 
ty is a prisoner taken in war. he is eaten immediately, 
and on the spot : and whether dead or alive, it alters 
not the case. 

The Battahs are described as fairer and smaller 
than the Malays — fond of dress, and more partial to 
horse flesh than to any other kind of animal food. 
Polygamy is common. The women are employed as 
slaves, while the men pass the time in war, indolence, 
gambling, and childish sports. Such is their estimate 



SUMATRA, 



199 



of the difference between the sexes, that they visit the 
same offense with a much more severe punishment 
upon the men, than upon their more ignorant and less 
culpable wives. As far as can be gathered from nu- 
merous sources, we conclude that cannibalism is not 
practiced so much from relish as from revenge, or for 
the purpose of public justice. And yet it is confident- 
ly and credibly affirmed, that "such are the brutal 
and depraved habits of a few, that they are unable, 
from custom, to relish any other kind of food."* 

In Ballum-ary or Kampang, the third division men- 
tioned, are the kingdoms of Palembang and Lampong, 
The former comprehends the south-eastern portion of 
Sumatra, and the latter extends to its southern extre- 
mity. Immense and impenetrable forests cover a 
large region of this southern division of the island — ■ 
the inhabitants are generally poor, and their customs 
like those of their neighbors. Palembang, where the 
Dutch had a factory, is represented as a large city^ 
inhabited by emigrants from China, Siam, and Java, 
as well as by the natives of the country. 

Besides these kingdoms, there are many independ- 
ent states, situated on the large rivers, answering in 
general features to those described. 

What an immense sphere does this island present 
for missionary exertion 1 The Dutch and English 
have alternatety held the foreign stations of the island; 
and the latter have sent a few missionaries to Bencoo- 
ien and Padang, but the great work of converting its 
millions to Christ was neither commenced nor prose- 



* Chinese Repository, vol, 3, no. % 

18 



SUMATRA, 



?uted with sufficient energy. At present there is not 
a missionary €>n the island. The writer became ac- 
quainted with a pious gentleman, who resided at Pa^ 
dang, and who promised to furnish such a statement 
of the country and its inhabitants, as would interest 
the Christian community, and supply hints for their 
benevolent efforts, Since that, the Dutch have been 
forcibly driven from their settlements — many of them 
were massacred by the enraged natives, and whether 
the person referred to. and a companion of congenial 
sentiments, escaped, is uncertain, as no intelligence 
has been received from them since the dreadful ca- 
tastrophe. 

Some of the islands near the west coast of Suma- 
tra are described as fertile and populous. Pulo Nyas 
is inhabited by an interesting race of men. who are 
remarkably ingenious, and carry on an extensive traf- 
fic. From all accounts, the place is exceedingly fa- 
vorable for missionary labor, and we know of no ob- 
stacles to its immediate occupancy.* 

Along the whole line of this western coast of Su- 
matra, and among the adjacent islands, the pious mer« 
chant has it in his power to exert the greatest influ- 
ence. It is a favorite resort for trading vessels from 
America and England, and according to the testimo- 
ny of one who has been engaged in the traffic, the 
most dishonorable and dishonest means are often em- 
ployed in defrauding the natives. Should houses of 
commerce, superintended by pious agents, be estab- 



* We are happy to learn that the American Board for Foreign Mis- 
sions have resolved on sending missionaries to this island } as soon as 
they can be ©brained. 



SUMATRA, 



201 



fished in the most populous and advantageous posi- 
tions ; and should ships in their visits to other places 
of trade, carry with them those who are capable of 
instructing the natives, immense good would infalli- 
bly accrue to the heathen. 

On our way to Singapore, we passed by a number 
of islands, which are occupied by pirates, who infest 
the adjacent seas, and watch for such vessels as they 
suppose may be safely and successfully attacked. 
Three masts generally afford security, although even 
ships have been assailed, and those of the crews who 
have remained to tell the tale, escaped with difficulty. 
We saw a number of proas in the straits of Banea, 
but our appearance was too formidable to invite an en- 
counter, or they too peaceful to attack us. 

The Sabbath was a day of delightful serenity, and 
the enjoyment of its hallowed privileges added not a 
little to its tranquilizing features. The willingness 
with which the tracts were received and read by pas- 
sengers and crew, afforded a fresh proof of the impor- 
tance of alv/ays being furnished with a supply of these 
powerful though unobtrusive monitors. 

On Monday morning, weighed anchor early, hav- 
ing been becalmed the previous night, and stood 
through the straits lying between Pulo Battam and 
the Great Dryon. It is questionable whether any 
ships have preceded us since 1803. It proved to be 
a safe, and in many respects, an advantageous passage. 
The land on both sides is uniform, and the scenery 
perfectly wild and rather interesting. I do not recol- 
lect ever to have sailed so great a distance among 
guch a number of scattered islands, 



202 



SINGAPORE, 



On Tuesday morning, June 14th, the ship came to 
anchor in Singapore roads. The harbor of Singa- 
pore is very extensive. It is surrounded by numer- 
ous islands, stretching far in the distance, and is ca- 
pable of affording safe anchorage to any number of 
shipping. 

There is nothing very striking in the aspect of the 
place. The site of the business part of the town is 
either a depressed hill or a redeemed jungle. Most of 
the private residences are situated upon a plain, of 
considerable extent while a few mansions crowning 
the adjacent hills, relieve the dull uniformity which 
a level situation gives to so many eastern towns. Be- 
ing a free port for all but Americans, many European 
ships and native craft are generally lying in the 
harbor. 

On my arrival. I found the missionaries well, and 
Mr. Tomlin on the eve of embarking for Siam. We 
were all struck with the concurrence of events, and 
could not but adore the goodness of the Lord in the 
peculiarity of the providence. Mr. T. had been wait- 
ing a long time for an opportunity, and this very vessel 
had been detained contrary to expectations, beyond the 
appointed period of sailing. The very day after my 
arrival she obtained her port clearance, but through the 
compliance of the captain, the time of sailing was 
deferred until Friday morning. An opportunity was 
thus presented to meet all those engagements which 
appeared important, before leaving Singapore. 

It was cheering to find from the missionaries, that 
the same disposition to receive Christian books which 
was manifested by the Malays at Batavia ; prevailed 



PASSAGE TO SIAM. 



203 



also at this and some of the neighboring stations.. 
The change is of a very recent date, and the hearts 
and hands of the missionaries are strengthened in 
their work. 

On Friday, June 17th, we embarked in an Arab 
vessel, with a European commander, for Siam. Mr. 
Tomlin, Mr. Daniell, a pious officer in the Indian ar- 
my, and myself, were obliged to occupy the same half 
of the poop-cabin. The opposite side contained two 
of the supercargo's wives, who were never seen by 
any but the husband and servants. The crew con- 
sisted of six and forty men, the principal part of whom 
were Arabs, and of course, professors of Islamism. 
There was something in their expressive features and 
muscular forms, which completely distinguished them 
from the Bengalese and Malays. The prominent 
nose, penetrating eye, curling locks, and heavy beard, 
characterized the majority. Their conduct, too, was 
in striking opposition to any thing I had ever witness- 
ed in any other vessel. Five times a day they bent 
the knee, and bowed the head, in social worship. The 
principal services are performed at day-dawn, and 
sun-set. 

At these seasons, the Muezzin ascended the quar- 
ter-deck — the only place on ship board, which would 
answer the purpose of a minaret, and stopping his ears 
with his fingers, to exclude all earthly sounds, pro- 
claimed in the most serious manner, the appointed 
hour for their devotions. He was soon joined by the 
majority, who with their faces toward the west, the 
direction of the Moslem's kiblah from our present po- 
sition, spent about half an hour in their fruitless task, 

18" 



204 



PASSAGE TO SIAM> 



They heed not the presence of man — never miss the 
hour of prayer, and express an earnestness which tes- 
tifies that they have not the most remote suspicion of 
their dreadful delusion. The mate generally leads 
the devotions, standing a short distance in advance of 
the rest. The countenances of some of them were 
deathfully solemn, and their voices, especially when 
mingled in general response, of a deep sepulchral tone. 
In their intercourse with each other, they evince a 
cheerfulness and apparent affection, which is seldom 
found among- European sailors. It is true, there is 
much less distinction between the officers and com- 
mon sailors, and much more liberty taken by the lat- 
ter, than in the generality of other vessels ; but eve- 
ry object of subordination is gained, and though rath- 
er sportful, the command is obeyed with prompt activi- 
ty. Deluded men ! they express a belief that all 
Christians are to be converted to their faith, and that, 
within two centuries from the present. I could al- 
most wish for the gift of tongues, to be instrumental 
of teaching them their error, and pointing them to the 
only Savior, whose spreading kingdom will blot the 
very name of their deceiver from under heaven, 
doubtless much within the specified period. Some, to 
whom Arabic Bibles were offered, received them with 
pleasure, and devoted much time to their examination. 
They soon discovered the inconsistency between the 
practice of nominal Christians, and the precepts of 
the Savior. 

Our room was consecrated to the worship of the 
true God. and the sacrifice of morning and evening 
praise was there offered. The usual services of the 



PASSAGE TO SIAM. 205 

Sabbath were also maintained. On ali these occa- 
sions, the captain, the only European on board, at- 
tended. 

For probably half our passage, we had the coast of 
the Malayan peninsula, and the neighboring islands, in 
view. The former is a range of abrupt, irregular 
hills, flanked in many places by peaks of the same 
character, though of different altitudes, and present- 
ing an appearance which might be easily mistaken by 
the distant observer for towers, pagodas, minarets, for- 
tifications, and castles. On the way we were fre- 
quently struck with the sun-set splendors of the heav- 
ens, and led to admire the glories of that Being, of 
whom his most lovely works are but the faintest re- 
flection. 

On Thursday, 30th June, 1831, we arrived at the 
bar, off the mouth of the Meinam, and anchored. The 
coast of Siam is so low, that at the distance of 
the horizon at sea, you can distinguish it only by a 
roughness without the usual undulation. English 
vessels are obliged by treaty with that government, to 
wait here for a pilot. It is said to be impossible for 
large ships to cross the bar, except at the highest tides, 
the water seldom exceeding eighteen feet, and rising 
at times not above twelve or fourteen. Understand- 
ing that the pilot would not be on board for a week, 
we left the ship on Saturday, in the jolly boat, for 
JBankok. About five o'clock, we reached Paknam, a 
small village some three or four miles from the shore 
of the sea. 

The Siamese have attempted to render the river 
impassable to foreign invaders. A barrier of large 



piles, many yards in depth, runs from one bank to the 
other, with the exception of a narrow passage-way 
for vessels ; each shore is lined with a battery ; -and 
a large fortification or castle has been erected in the 
stream, to command the approach, as welt as to ob- 
struct the passage of the place. The appearance of 
this castle, with a small spiral pagoda or monument, 
at a short distance, is imposing and beautiful. 

It was our intention to pass Paknam, without 
stopping : but the king's officers hailed us, and the 
governor detained the captain about an hour. The 
old gentleman made the best of the time in asking 
such questions, and offering such remarks, as were 
dictated by his curiosit}?-, and his still more insatiable 
cupidity. During this interview, the passengers, who 
remained in the boat, afforded considerable amuse- 
ment to the natives, by partaking of a cold repast. 
We prevailed upon them to taste the biscuit and beer, 
on which we were feasting, and received, in return, 
shell-fish and segars, made of a dried leaf, rolled up, 
and inclosing a little cut tobacco. Many of the men 
were muscular, and symmetrical in form — probably 
selected for the service in which they are engaged. 

The Siamese shave the head, except on the crown, 
where they allow the hair to grow sufficiently long to 
give it the uprightness and apparent rigidity of bris- 
tles. Their dress is scanty : the limbs and upper 
part of the body being exposed. There is no differ- 
ence in this respect, from the king to his meanest sub- 
ject. The women are almost as denuded as the men. 
It is a universal custom, with both sexes, to chew the 
betel and cere, and among the men, from early youth 



207 



to the most decrepid age, there is scarcely an excep- 
tion to the habit of smoking. Between the two, the 
jaws are seldom allowed to be at rest. 

From Paknam to Bankok, the distance is probably 
twenty-five or thirty miles. We left the former place 
about six in the evening, and arrived at half-past 
twelve. On the way, we were entertained by many 
objects of interest and novelty. 

The Meinam is a noble river— probably half a mile 
in average width, and sufficiently deep to admit to 
Bankok, the largest ships which can pass the bar. 
Its banks are low, and covered with jungle. As we 
proceeded, the lights on the shore were numerous in 
many places, and we were convinced from their re- 
flection in the river, that the houses were built upon 
piles or rafts. In one or two places our ears were sa- 
luted with music, which came over the water, at this 
late and silent hour, with a soothing melody. The 
instruments were chiefly on the percussion principle, 
and the soft and delicate harmony of their tones, form- 
ed a perfect contrast to the harsh strains with which 
we had been tortured in China. But the objects of 
our greatest admiration, were the swarms of fire-flies 
on each shore, and passing from one side of the river 
to the other. Though not to be compared in size or 
brilliancy to the famed lantern-fly, (fulgora laternaria,) 
of South America, described by Madame Merian : still 

" Innumerous tribes 
From the wood-cover swarmed, and darkness made 
Their beauties visible : one while they streamed 
A bright blue radiance upon flowers that closed 
Their gorgeous colors from the eye of day j 



208 



SIAMc 



Now motionless and dark, eluded search, 
Seif-shrouded, and anon starring the sky, 
Rose like a shower of fire,"* 

Thousands of these insects would light together 
on one tree, and give it a most beautiful and vivid il- 
lumination. There appeared to be a complete uni- 
formity in the motions of them all, — so that the glare 
would break forth and close in, as though they inha- 
led a common breath, or emitted their light by some 
other simultaneous impulse. It required no stretch of 
fancy to imagine ourselves in those fairy regions of 
which we had heard in childhood, and especially as 
we were inclined to indulge in transient slumbers, and 
would frequently awake from forgetfulness to the nov- 
el and dreaming pictures around us. 

In one place, where the natives were on the look-out, 
and where, as we had since ascertained, there is a 
fort, we were hailed, and asked a number of ques- 
tions. Having obtained permission to proceed, we 
did not stop, but told them our destination, and heed- 
ed not, neither understood their cries. 

Before we left the ship, we visited one of the 
Chinese junks, waiting on the bar for a favorable 
wind, and were much disappointed to learn that Gutz- 
laff had sailed, but a few days before, for China. As 
there were Christian books in the junks, and some of 
the sailors were well acquainted with his history, 
there was little reason to doubt the correctness of the 
statement. We were thus prepared to hear, that he 
had actually embarked on the expedition in which his 



* gouthey's Madoc, 



MAM, 



209 



fieart has been absorbed, and for which Divine Provi- 
dence had now opened a way. 

Soon after midnight we reached the residence of 
Seignor Carlos de Silveira, the Portuguese consul, who 
received us with much kindness and hospitality. This 
gentleman entertained the missionaries during the 
early part of their first visit — assigned them a house 
on his own lands — and when they were opposed by 
the Roman Catholics, and through them^ by the na- 
tive authorities, continued their warm friend, not- 
withstanding the threatened loss of all his property ? 
and the menace of expulsion from the Siamese do- 
minions. The same disinterested kindness has ever 
been evinced by R. Hunter, Esq., the only English 
merchant in the place, who in the time of their great- 
est trial, received the missionaries into his house, and 
exerted all his influence on their behalf — determined 
to risk every thing, rather than have them driven 
from the kingdom. Mr. H. remains in the country, 
and will no doubt ever render the missionaries all the 
assistance which hi3 well known character, and the 
rank the king has conferred on him, enable him to 
afford, 



CHAPTER X, 



SIAM CONTINUED. 

On his first visit, the writer spent six months at 
Siam, Avhich time was devoted to the study of the 
Chinese and Siamese languages, and to the ordinary 
duties of the mission. A few general remarks, 
founded upon the information obtained at that time, 
and corrected and enlarged by a succeeding visit, will 
give the reader some idea of the place and its inhab- 
itants. 

The country, as far as regards scenery and improve > 
merits, is extremely uninteresting. There is not a 
hill— scarcely a mound to interrupt the dead level, 
which spreads in a wide compass around the capital. 
The soil is exceedingly productive ; it surpasses in 
the rich variety, and abundance of its fruits, nearly 
all the adjacent regions, and is probably not surpassed 
by any country of the east.* 

Bankok, the capital, is situated upon the Meinam. 



* Besides the more valuable productions, Siam abounds in the most 
delicious fruits of the east — plantains, oranges, shadachs, durians, 
the bread fruit, and above all, the mangosteen and mango, in the 
greatest perfection. 

19 



212 



The palaces of the two kings, and of some of the 
princes, are inclosed within a wall, while the suburbs 
extend about two or three miles above and below the 
royal residences, and on each side of the river. As 
the houses are generally situated upon the water, or 
near its edge, the river may be considered as the high- 
way, the mart and pleasure grounds of the city. 
Here the mass of the population reside, carry on their 
business and take their recreation. The most pro- 
jecting row of houses is built upon bamboo rafts, and 
moored or secured to fixtures upon shore. Of course, 
their locality can be changed without difficulty, and 
sometimes, without the concurrence of the inmates. 
It is no uncommon thing to see them come floating 
down the stream, with all their contents, set adrift) 
perhaps, by ships in their vicinity, and carrying 
away, in their turn, those against which they may be 
driven by the impulse first received, or the eddies into 
which they are whirled. 

Those houses situated nearer the shore, or partly 
on the bank of the river, are founded upon piles rais- 
ed above the rise of the tides. These are generally 
inhabited, although some of the best are used as 
cool retreats for the kings and men of wealth, who 
live on shore. In many places, the dwellings retire 
some distance from the margin of the river, and either 
form a narrow extended street, as on the city side of 
the water ; or branch off toward the interior ; or are 
scattered over the face of the country, amid gardens, 
jungle, and rice fields. There are many interesting 
and varying views, as you pass up the winding course 
of Meinam. The finest specimens of architecture are 



SIAM. 



213 



the temples, which generally occupy the best sites, and 
cover, with the array of monastic buildings attached 
to them, a large area of ground. These and the pal- 
aces, glittering with gold and other ornaments, to- 
gether with a few mansions belonging to the princes, 
derive no trifling part of their magnificence from the 
contiguity and contrast of the mean huts composing 
the remainder of the city. 

In passing along the river, many rural beauties are 
fancied to exist on shore. A variety of palms, the 
bread fruit, the silk cotton, (Bombax cliba.) the tam- 
arind, with a profusion of other less majestic, though 
equally valuable trees— all flourishing in this congen- 
ial soil, and blooming in the richest luxuriance, ap- 
pear like groves, and arbors, and parks; while the 
houses and temples, peeping through the self-formed 
avenues, are mistaken for dwellings of taste and com- 
fort. But the place is disenchanted of its beauty, the 
moment the shore is gained. The temples excepted > 
where some little taste and ingenuity are displayed, 
every thing is improvable, but nothing improved, 
Neither order, convenience, ornament, nor comfort, 
are consulted in the situation and structure of their 
houses. 

In and near the city, a few streets have been laid 
cut, while in many parts, instead of accommodating 
the houses to any line of roads, the roads, or paths, 
are interrupted and bent in almost every direction, by 
the encroachment of the buildings. The want of 
roads and good foot-paths, and almost all conveniences 
for out-door exercise, is one of the most serious objec- 
tions to a residence in Siam. The natives, like their 



8IAM. 



god Budha, appear to luxuriate in indolence, and eon- 
sequently. when obliged to move, are contented with 
the most passive modes of locomotion. The rivers, 
creeks, and canals, are so numerous, that they can go 
in boats to almost every place, were business or pleas- 
ure calls them. 

There are many points of painful interest con- 
nected with the state of society in Siam. Its popula- 
tion, consisting of four or five millions of souls, is 
made up of Siamese, natives of Laos, Cambojians, Pe- 
guins. Malays, Burmese, descendants of Portuguese, 
Cochin-Chinese, and Chinamen. 

With the exception of the Chinese, who pay a tri- 
ennial capitation sum, this whole population is divi- 
ded into two classes — such as are bound to perpetual 
slavery, and those who are submitted to a service tax 
of a portion of their time. The former are either 
conquered enemies, from the country of Laos and the 
Malayan peninsula, or stolen subjects from the fron- 
tiers of Burmah and Pegu. Twenty thousand Laos 
captives were transferred at one time from their native 
land, and distributed among the Siamese princes, and 
men of authority. These poor creatures are more op- 
pressed than all rheir fellow slaves. As you enter the 
palaces of the kings, or mansions of the great men. 
it is distressing to witness women and men of every 
age 3 toiling in fetters, as though the clank of their 
chains was music in the ears of their cruel lords. 
The reason assigned for such inhumanity, is the fear 
of their escape : but one is strongly tempted to believe, 
from this and other cruelties equally revolting, that 
they estimate their own importance, as much by the 



SIAM. 



215 



misery as the multiplicity of their slaves. Many of 
this class, having no employment at home, are sent 
out to labor for the benefit of their masters ; some of 
them own several thousands, and derive considerable 
emolument from their services. 

It is not uncommon to expose these unfortunate 
beings to sale, often at the most reduced prices, and 
to have them purchased even by officers of govern- 
ment, for a traffic as vile as the deepest depravity 
could suggest. Numbers of females are daily sent 
forth in the most disgraceful capacity, and if they do 
not return at night with a sum fixed by their masters, 
they are often cruelly beaten. If they refuse this odi- 
ous life — and some of them have spurned its debase- 
ment — the master is quite at liberty as to the mode 
and measure of the punishment. To the number of 
slaves already mentioned, must be added the children, 
whom the alledged necessities of their parents oblige 
them to sell, and who are bought for any purpose 
which their covetous or licentious masters may 
choose. 

The other class referred to, who are submitted to a 
service tax of part of their time, includes all the oth- 
er inhabitants of the country, with the exception of 
the Chinese. Even the natives of Siam, and the no- 
minal Christians, descendants of Portuguese, are 
among the number. These, with some exceptions 
of the more wealthy, are reduced to a state of partial 
slavery, being obliged to employ much of their time 
in the king's service, and receiving for their labor the 
smallest compensation. If they are not so fortunate 
as to lay by a small store during their liberty, for this 

19* 



216 



SI AM. 



hour of need, or their wives and children are unsuc- 
cessful in a petty trade, by which many of them sub- 
sist, they and their families are reduced to the greatest 
straits. 

By the laws of the land, or the neglect of their ad- 
ministration, they are allowed to pilfer from the poor 
hucksters, such eatables as their necessities require, 
and their strength can secure. The Chinese who sell 
vegetables and fruit, complain bitterly of this custom- 
redress is out of the question. Some of this class 
have little or no time to themselves — others have 
liberty of one third, one half, and two thirds of the 
vear. What are the particular rules of this difference. 
I am not informed. Those slaves and subjects allot- 
ted bv the kins' to the p 'inces and officers of govern- 
ment, have the names of their masters written upon 
their arms, and are quite at their control. 

The more respectable and wealthy, mentioned as 
exceptions to this system of service taxation, are ex- 
ceptions only to a limited extent. They are either 
employed as civil or military officers in his majesty's 
service, or are obliged to procure a substitute for their 
own bodily labor. In fact, with all their boasts of 
freedom — and freemen is the appellation by which the 
nation is known, in their own language, Siam is a 
land of slaves : the king being the only exception to 
universal vassalage. His majesty can employ any 
subject upon any business, for* any length of time ; 
under any circumstances, and upon any conditions. 
A portion of almost every day is spent by the officers 
and the princes, in lying prostrate before him, and 
awaiting his pleasure. 



i 



SIAM. 



21? 



The Chinese have been mentioned as enjoying 
more liberty, and greater advantages than others= 
Even they groan under the burden of taxes, and when 
convicted of crime, often unjustly as they affirm, are 
made to expiate their guilt by manual labor, continu- 
ed beyond all bounds of equitable punishment. Ma- 
ny of them, while toiling daily, and throughout the 
day, for the king, are thrown for their sustenance upon 
the mercy of their friends, the charities of the public, 
or those dishonorable measures which the starving in 
his majesty's service are allowed to employ. 

As a necessary consequence of these oppressive cus- 
toms, poverty is a common evil. The great mass of 
the inhabitants have barely enough to support their 
existence, and that upon the most simple fare. Du- 
ring the term of service required by their masters, 
they scarcely receive sufficient for their individual 
maintenance, — and even their own time, when made 
available to private interest, is not secure from an arbi- 
trary call to extra service, or war. At one season of 
the year, crowds of boats are moored abreast of the 
palace. These belong to men who reside in the coun- 
try, and who are annually called from their homes 
and rice fields, to spend two or three months in prac- 
ticing the art of gracefully paddling the king's boats. 
During all this term of useless service, they are un- 
der the necessity of supporting themselves, and neg- 
lecting- their families. -~ J 

The misery of the nation is increased by the cor- 
rupt administration of justice. Many of the laws are 
equitable, but alas ! they are only imperative when 
the judge can make them answer a private end. Of 



218 



SIAM* 



the unwritten statutes, which, like the traditions of 
the elders, are the only ones deemed practical, the 
most imperative law is the royal nod, — the next is the 
pleasure of the prime minister ; and so through the 
descending scale of official rank, the superior lias the 
the control of the inferior, and his will the precedence 
of the litera scripta. 

From the throne to the lowest bench of justice, the 
all absorbing object is self-aggrandizement. Even 
the monarch appears to regard his own interest as 
perfectly distinct from the prosperity of his subjects. 
In times of scarcity, as the writer has witnessed, there 
is frequently no provision made for the suffering 
poor, when it might be effected with little cost or 
trouble. In fact, such is the sovereignty of money, 
that multitudes prefer putting up with indignities and 
losses — for which the law, according to its letter and 
intention, would afford redress — rather than be com- 
pelled through necessary bribes, or an unjust decision, 
to risk the endurance of additional suffering, by an 
appeal to justice. 

Besides these evils, over which the common people 
have no control, there are others of a moral nature, 
which greatly aggravate their present sufferings. 
Among these, is the abuse of the marriage contract, 
with its train of complicated miseries. Polygamy is 
in high vogue. The king's seraglio contains between 
five hundred and one thousand women : and all the 
princes, in fact the whole kingdom, have no other 
limitation to numbers, than their wishes and wealth. 
The poorer classes are of course restricted by neces- 
sity, and one evil is thus checked by another. 



SIAM. 



119 



Connected with this multiplication of wives, and 
its consequent relaxation of all the ties of kindred and 
affection, there are other prevalent customs in Siam, 
quite as fatal to human happiness. A man who is 
unsuccessful in gambling, or reduced to poverty by 
other means, may sell his wife — with the liberty of 
redeeming her for the same sum and expenses she 
has incurred ; or if his admiration of her good quali- 
ties ceases, he may put her away and procure another. 
If the wife was purchased — a common substitute for 
courtship — and has no children, there is generally no 
difficulty in dissolving the connection. If she be able 
to pay the amount of her original purchase, she may 
have the same advantage over her husband. In ordi- 
nary cases, however, the concurrence of both parties 
is so far necessary, that the rejected one, whose con- 
sent has not been obtained, can claim a support, or a 
sum of money as an indemnification. 

A man who fancies the wife of another, can gene- 
rally obtain her, if his dignity or wealth gives him 
the advantage of her husband. And a creditor, if he 
can get nothing else, can take the wife and children 
of the insolvent. If the happiness of individuals and 
society at large depends upon the inviolable sanctity 
of the marriage contract, which its very institution 
would proclaim, it will readily be believed that such 
an abuse of all that is sacred in the most important 
relation of life, must prove fatal to every thing but the 
mere semblance of domestic enjoyment. 

Gambling is another source of depravity and 
wretchedness in Siam. The king derives a large rev- 
enue from this licensed evil, and the demoniacal spU 



220 



SIAM. 



rit it engenders, and the dreadful crimes it instigates, 
prove it to be a moral maelstrom, where the happiness 
and hopes of thousands are forever lost. 

The shameless indecency of language and dress, 
the latter of which has been already referred to, is al- 
so productive of great evils. The most common epi- 
thets of abuse in the kingdom would shock vulgarity 
itself in civilized countries, and yet this is the Ian* 
guage employed by high and low, men and women, 
from the angry mother to her suckling, and from the 
stammering child to its offending parent. You sel- 
dom go abroad, or have a company pass your dwell- 
ing, without hearing the vilest terms mixed up with 
expressions of anger, and gracing every effort at 
pleasantry. 

Besides these prevalent evils, lying; cheating, and 
pilfering, are exceedingly common — robbery and mur- 
der by no means rare. Those who have commercial 
dealings with them, declare that dishonesty and deceit 
are, with the fewest exceptions, characteristic of the 
nation. The meanness of the great to obtain favors, 
especially from foreigners, is despicable. They will 
accept any thing as a present, and offer nothing worth 
receiving in return — they will crave most importu- 
nately, and often cringingly, what they know you 
want — they will buy, and frequently endeavor to cheat 
the seller out of much of the stipulated sum — they 
will borrow and never return — and when they can 
get nothing more from you. unless they desire your 
society as amusement, they never come near you. 

This picture of the political and moral condition 
of Siam is dark. As far however, as a careful and 



I 

SIAM. 221 

minute examination can insure correctness, it is delin- 
eated with justice. It has its lights, and those who 
have but a partial acquaintance with the place, may 
suppose that we give it too deep a coloring, without 
considering that they behold it only in its most fa- 
vorable aspect, and through a flattering medium. 

Some of the more pleasing, and to a hasty inspec- 
tion, discernable shades of the picture, we have hinted 
at. One is the large number of Chinesej whose con- 
dition is better than their fellow-citizens, and who 
make an important figure in the business of the place. 
Another is the undue proportion of princes, who, like 
the feudal barons of old, move about in considerable 
style, and impress the mind with some idea of their 
importance. A third is the overwhelming number of 
priests, whose office confers immunities, such as honor 
without respectability, and support without labor. 

Besides these, the majority of the common people, 
who occupy the most conspicuous houses, are the for-^ 
tunate class of tradesmen and shop-keepers, from 
whose prosperity it would be as unwise to deduce an 
opinion of the general condition of the people, as to 
take the most successful merchants at home, as a cri- 
terion of the wealth of the community at large. An- 
other light to the sketch, which, however, is but a 
reflected one, is the exceeding productiveness of the 
country, and of course, the cheapness of the necessa- 
ries of life. 

These things being the most obvious to those who 
pay only a transient visit to the place, who know no- 
thing of the language, and have no opportunity of* 
witnessing the interior of society, they imagine, as 



222 



SIAM. 



they do in regard to other heathen countries; that the 
people are happy, and that western refinement and re- 
ligion would not improve their condition. 

The religion of Siam is Buddhistic. From the 
best authorities, there are more than twenty thousand 
priests in the kingdom, one half or two thirds of 
whom reside in Bankok, and its vicinity. The tem- 
ples a:e built at the expense of the king, or the prin- 
cipal men in the kingdom. His majesty has shown 
himself peculiarly zealous in the maintenance of the 
State religion. He has many temples with their 
monasteries, under his own patronage, which are call* 
ed by his name, and supported by his royal bounty. 
These occupy the best grounds, and are built in a 
style of splendor with which nothing but the palace 
can compare. 

For the support of the priests, a monthly allowance 
of rice and money is made from the public treasury. 
Besides this, they enjoy not only the religious merits, 
but the temporal advantages of mendicity. Every 
morning they sally forth to collect the alms of the 
people, and generally succeed in getting enough for 
themselves, and a host of human and canine pension- 
ers, whom their charity attracts from every quarter. 
The rarest delicacies of the season are among the 
gifts with which they are loaded ■ and the women, 
who appear by far the most devout-, never visit the 
temples without carrying such presents as their cir- 
cumstances will permit. 

The priesthood is supplied by men of all -classes in 
society. The temples or monasteries are the only 
schools of learning in the kingdom, and as education 



S1AM. 



22S 



is very prevalent, there is scarcely an individual who 
does not pass some portion of his life in these estab- 
lishments. Admittance may be obtained on the most 
easy terms. Any person may enter who can show 
that he has an official release from the service tax, is 
not in debt, and has the consent of parents or wife. 
Each may remain as long as he pleases, and retire at 
option. When provisions are dear, many avail them- 
selves of this easy mode of support, and while neces- 
sity presses or indolence prompts, they enjoy all the 
honors and profits of the yellow robe. A large num- 
ber take upon themselves the monastic vow for life, 
and spend all their days in the prescribed round of sec- 
ular and sacerdotal duties* 

The elders teach their younger brethren, preach at 
the pagodas, or in private houses, solemnize marria- 
ges, attend at funerals, consecrate new houses, shave 
the heads of children, perform certain offices for the 
recovery of the sick, and the absolution of the dead, 
and visit those scenes where their sacred presence and 
magical arts are deemed necessary. In former days, 
they decided difficult cases of judicature by enchant- 
ment : but since Mammon has usurped the throne of 
justice, causes are found less complicated, and the 
priests' services are superseded. 

The greatest show of respect is paid to the priests. 
Even the king bows down in their presence, and the 
common people bestow on them the same sign of ado- 
ration with which they honor the idols. But this re- 
spect is chiefly nominal, or if real, it is to the robe, 
and not the man. His majesty, with all his profes- 
sions of inferiority, reserves to himself the right of 

20 



22i 



si AM. 



stripping off this sacred garment, and punishing the 
unworthy wearer. Some time ago the principal priest 
or pope was found guilty of some heinous misdemea- 
nor, upon which he was disrobed, dishonored, and 
made a servant to the royal elephants. The chief im- 
munities attached to the priesthood are exemption 
from service tax and military duties. But here again, 
the king has taken liberties upon some occasions, and 
shown that his will and interests are superior to all the 
laws and rights of religion. Seme years ago, many 
in the inferior grades of sanctity were drafted into the 
army, which occasioned among them the most turbu- 
lent commotion. It ended in a partial rebellion — a 
plot to assassinate the king, and finally in the appre- 
hension of seven hundred of their own number. 

With so few restraints, and surrounded by so many 
objects of temptation, it is rathe? surprising that any 
of them should maintain a consistent conduct : such 
is the case, however, with a few who are intelligent, 
exemplary, and highly esteemed : but the majority 
bear a very different character, and pursue a disgrace- 
ful course of life. 

The influence of all this display of idolatry upon 
the nation, argues very little in favor of the moral 
advantages of Buddhism. Those who are the most 
dishonest in the means they adopt to secure wealth, 
are often the most liberal supporters of the priests and 
their mummeries. In fact, a blind and nearly equal 
reverence for the priests and their idols, and a due re- 
gard to the temporal wants of the former, is the main 
article — too often the sum of their practical religion. 

The religion of Burmah. Pegu, and Laos, being 



STAM. 



the same, the natives of these respective countries,, 
who reside in Siam, join in the worship of their mas- 
ters. 

The Chinese have brought their creed and idols 
with them, and here, as at home, they worship their 
gods for temporal favors, and express their reverence, 
only by sacrificing to their net and burning incense 
to their drag." Many of them are Buddhists : they 
readily unite with the Siamese, if any end can be 
gained by doing so. 

The Malays practice a species of lslamism, mixed 
up with some of the ancient rites and customs of their 
Pagan forefathers. They are exceedingly noisy in 
their devotions. At some seasons, whole companies 
of them spend hours at a time in trilling out loud, 
and long-drawn cries. The voices of men and wo- 
men, of infancy, manhood, and decrepitude, are min- 
gled in such grating and boisterous strains, as com- 
pletely to disturb the surrounding region, and to inter- 
nipt the repose of night. 

The Portuguese profess a corrupt Catholicism, 
which symbolizes, in many respects, with the supersti- 
tions of their Pagan neighbors, and proves quite as 
inert in its moral influence. There are about one 
thousand of them, who, with one or two respectable 
exceptions, are as deeply sunk in mental and moral 
debasement as the lowest class of pagans around them. 
Destitute of the force of truth in their creed, of mo- 
rals in their practice, of respectability in their charac- 
ter, and even of pecuniary show in their external cir- 
cumstances ; their religion makes the least possible 
^roirress anion £ their heathen neighbors. 



22G 



SI AM, 



The deep degradation, and scandalous immoralities 
of many of them, cast dishonor on the Christian name, 
to which they, as well as all their brethren in the 
East, most pertinaciously clinof. 

A person may form some idea of the comparative 
reasonableness of these different religions, without 
leaving his abode. One night he hears the bells and 
drams of Buddhism ; the next, the wearisome cando- 
ry cries of the Mussulmans ; the third, the gong r 
drums and squibs of the Chinese ; and the fourth, the 
bells, drums, crackers, and guns of the Roman Catho- 
lics, who seem determined to confound the confusion 
of them all, and to bear away the inglorious palm. 

Until very recently, nothing was attempted by the 
Protestant world for the moral benefit of Siam. The 
first missionaries who visited the place, belonged to 
other stations, and went to Siamunsent by the church- 
es at home. Had it been left to their tardy opera- 
tions, the probability is, that the kingdom would still 
have been supposed inaccessible, or unimportant, as 
a field of Christian missions, 

In the autumn of 1828, Messrs. Gutzlaff and Tom- 
lin arrived at Siam, and commenced an interesting se- 
ries of labors, in the joint capacities of missionaries 
and physicians. Their journals are before the Chris- 
tian public. Mr. Tomlin was driven from the place 
by ill health, after a residence of nine months, and 
Mr. Gutzlaff continued the duties of the mission for 
nearly three years. During this time, the New Tes- 
tament and parts of the Old, were translated ; a vo- 
cabulary was formed, and two or three religious books 
written. One of the tracts went through the press. 



227 



and has been circulated. The other works required 
revision and correction, and owing to a train of provi- 
dential obstacles have not been printed to this day. 
Mr. Gutzlaff had also the gratification of baptizing a 
Chinaman, who had renounced his idols and heathen- 
ish customs, and who. as far as could be judged, had 
been made " a partaker of the promise in Christ by 
the Gospel.' 7 

A few days after the departure of Mr. Gutzlaff for 
China, Mr. Tomlin and myself reached the place. 
We immediately unpacked our books — the published 
tract spoken of, and others in the Chinese language, 
opened the medical depository, engaged teachers, and 
commenced our labors. These interesting duties 
were continued six months, when my fellow mission- 
ary was called away to another sphere of exertion : 
and I was obliged, from a declension of health, to try 
the effect of a change of air and scene. 

A narrative of events during this period, has been 
published. Our time was most actively employed in 
laboring, to the extent of our ability, and in extend- 
ing our ability for increased exertion. Throngs of 
patients, afflicted with almost every disease, daily ap- 
plied for relief, and crowds of applicants for books 
soon carried away our entire stock. Of the former 
number, many were greatly benefited. How far our 
spiritual applications were productive of good, was 
not so easy to ascertain ; although we have reason to 
believe, that our "labors were not in vain in the Lord." 

A few extracts from the journal kept at that time 
will give an idea of such facts as were thought wor- 
thy of memorizing. 

20* 



228 



SIAM. 



Monday afternoon, July 4th, we called, with our 
friend Mr. Silveira, on the Prah Klang, the director 
of all the commercial affairs of Bankok, and one of 
the principal ministers of state. On our way to his 
establishment, about two miles from our present abode, 
we had the opportunity of seeing a part of the city, 
and its suburbs. For a long distance the houses are 
built on rafts, on each side of the river, and the only 
communication is by boats. 

The dwellings and shops are constructed of a slen- 
der material, and covered with attap. Skiffs are em- 
ployed by the natives, for transporting their persons 
and light effects. These are so exceedingly small, 
that their progress is very rapid, and their safety pre- 
carious. The paddler is obliged to sit in the middle 
and on the bottom of the boat, and even then, his life 
is endangered by the least want of skill, or agitation 
of the waves. * 

The women, like those in China, bear a part in all 
kinds of drudgery, and become exceedingly coarse, 
and immodest in appearance and conversation. 

We landed abreast of the Prah Klang's dwelling, 
and not finding him at home, proceeded a short dis- 
tance to a pagoda, or rather a suite of buildings, at 
which he has been occupied for the last seven years. 
The princes and men of office generally expend part 
of their income in erecting temples and supporting 
priests. What a reflection upon those who, knowing 
the true God, and possessing abundant means for ex- 



* Many of them have been overturned in our sight, and numbers 
drowned within a short distance from our cottage. 



S1AM. 



229 



tending that knowledge, neither make provision for 
their own eternal welfare, nor offer their abased priv- 
ileges to those who might improve them ! 

We were apprised of approaching the presence of 
the Prah Klang, by the strange actions of our inter- 
preter, a Portuguese by extraction, and the only ad- 
mitted medium of communication between the great 
man and foreigners. When he saw him, though at 
a distance of twenty or thirty yards, he bent his bo- 
dy, and crept along like a sportsman approaching the 
game unobserved. In this inclining posture, he con- 
tinued until within a few yards of the object of his 
reverence, when he laid himself prostrate on the 
ground, and awaited the pleasure of his superior. We 
all approached and tendered the obeisance required of 
foreigners, namely taking off the hat, bowing, and 
sitting in his presence. With the exception of a 
well-conditioned body held in an erect posture, there 
was nothing to distinguish the old man from the most 
menial of his train. All the workmen and attend- 
ants, while in his presence, walked with their heads 
as near the ground as possible. His person was en- 
tirely bare, with the exception of the cloth which is 
usually worn, and there was nothing in the texture of 
that to attract our attention. 

He made a number of inquiries respecting our sev- 
eral offices, and especially our objects in visiting Siam ; 
and appeared satisfied when Mr. Tomlin mentioned 
that he and myself came on the same errand which 
brought Gutzlaff and himself before. But that our 
fellow passenger, Lieut. Daniell, should have come, 
merely for the benefit of health, was quite a paradox 



230 



SI AM. 



to the old man. The visit of a British officer by no 
means tended to allay the suspicions and fears with 
which the Burmese war had filled their neighbors. 
The interview was soon closed. The interpreter 
was commanded to take us around, and show us " the 
great Babylon" which the old gentleman was building, 
and part of which he himself assisted us to admire, 

On Tuesday morning, we breakfasted with Mr, 
McDonell. the only European merchant in Siam, in 
the absence of 3Ir. Hunter, and afterwards went to 
the walls of the palace, to see the objects of curiosity 
there. Among a number of the largest elephants we 
ever saw, were the famed white ones of the king, sup- 
posed to be the habitations of former sovereigns, and 
kept with the greatest care. None but the most hon- 
ored and virtuous are thought to be favored after the 
present existence, with such a rare and dignified resi- 
dence. Their hue is far from being white ; it is near- 
er the color of cream. 

We walked nearly round the palace walls : but 
were not allowed to enter. They inclose an exten- 
sive area, and the buildings they contain appear, judg- 
ing from the roofs and spires, to be both gaudy and 
commodious. We visited a large pagoda, surround- 
ed by many smaller apartments, and lofty pillars. 
Some of the latter were of considerable elevation. 
The principal temples were closed, and the priests, 
who were lying about on their mats in the other 
buildings, showed no disposition to gratify our curi- 
osity. One of them, with whom we attempted to 
converse on the folly of idol worship, threatened to 
tell the king that we were defaming his gods. 



SIAM. 



231 



Early in the week we transferred our residence to 
the small house allotted to the missionaries by our 
hospitable friend. It stands upon poles, beneath 
which the waters constantly flow, and though humble 
in appearance, and scanty in dimensions, answers 
all our purposes. Its super-aqueous situation and nu- 
merous crevices render it delightfully airy, and this is 
the point of chief importance in the summer of these 
tropical regions. 

The associations of the place are solemn and awa- 
kening. But a few months since, its doors were 
opened to receive our brother and sister in this mis- 
sion. Now the latter lies sleeping in death, but a 
short distance from us, and our fellow laborer has 
been called away to other scenes of exertion. We 
feel impressed with the admonition, " whatsoever thy 
hand findeth to do, do it with thy might. God grant 
us grace to improve the lesson of his providence, and 
to work while it is day. 

25th. — Since our arrival, the medical depository 
has been a scene of much activity, from the numerous 
calls for aid. The diseases of the natives are vari- 
ous; many of them brought upon themselves by their 
iniquities, and some of a deep and desperate maligni- 
ty. Our want of extensive science and practice, 
more especially my own, proves rather inconvenient in 
cases of a complicated nature ; but generally, and at 
times strikingly, our prescriptions are made to answer 
the desired end. 

31st. — To-day we had a number of calls, principal- 
ly for medicine. One of the applicants was a Siam- 
ese of considerable distinction. Another did not come 



232 



SIAM, 



himself, but sent his servant with a very polite letter. 
The former evinced much confidence in our prescrip- 
tions, and could scarcely be prevented from giving us 
a recompense. The chief grounds of our refusal to 
accept remuneration for medicines, are the import- 
ance of having this strong argument against the de- 
vices of the enemy, and the suspicions of the people ; 
and the unimportance of the sum which they would 
or could bestow. The utmost caution is necessary to 
secure the confidence of the natives, and we know of 
no better means by which our motives and object may 
be known and commended, than by proving that we 
act upon such principles of disinterestedness, as they 
have never seen exemplified before. 

The simplicity of the native character both amu- 
ses and interests us. Even men of standing in socie- 
ty, evince all the artlessness of children with us. 
They examine with the most minute curiosity the tex- 
ture and fashion of the dress, and not unfrequently 
extend their scrutiny to the body, testing with their 
hands the depth and breadth of the chest, the appear- 
ance of the hands, and arms, and face, and expressing, 
as they proceed, their admiration or the contrary, with 
the utmost candor. They often ask for whatever 
they fancy, though in use, and if you refuse their re- 
quest, will point you, if it be an article of dress, to 
other garments which they suppose abundantly suffi- 
cient for one body, while they very significantly re- 
mind you, that the greater part of their own is not 
even covered. 

Though rather troublesome for the present, we are 
pleased to find this characteristic so prominent, Js 



S I AM. 



233 



shoves us their idea of the superiority of foreigners, 
at least in some respects, and we hope will render 
them less tenacious of their religious opinions, when 
they find them so totally different from the sentiments 
of more polished nations. Some of them exhibit 
much affection and gratitude for the medicine and 
books. To-day the number of applicants for the lat- 
ter has exceeded any thing of the kind we have yet 
witnessed. High and low, priest and people, men 
and women, old and young, natives and foreigners, all 
throng our cottage, and urge their suit with an elo- 
quence which can scarcely be resisted. The small 
number of books compared with the wants of the 
people, makes us cautious in their distribution, and 
them earnest in their requests. The novelty of the 
thing is no doubt the great attraction. Still, we know 
that their hearts are in the Lord's hands, and that 
the heathen are the purchase and inheritance of the 
Savior. 

As the tract, though not clothed in Scripture phra- 
seology, and not free from errors, is an epitome of 
God's word, and illustrates particularly the redemption 
of the Savior, we are encouraged to believe that it 
shall produce effect. 

August 1st. — Whenever the weather would admit, 
we have spent an hour or two before breakfast, in 
teaching the people, from house to house. They lis- 
ten to the Gospel with attention, and though their own 
idolatry is plainly denounced, say nothing in its vin- 
dication. We daily meet with the very counterpart 
of characters in Gospel lands; men who will take 
the subject from your lips, and descant upon it with 



234 



eloquence, to those around them ; but who evidently 
know little of its import, and nothing of its power* 
Their eloquence is exhausted upon minor topics, and 
when reminded of the great mysteries of the Gospel, 
— the points of difference between Christianity and 
the ethics of Confucius, they show by their silence 
that they are quite as ignorant as their audience. 

August 20th. — Since our arrival, we have been vis- 
ited by several of the princes, whose curiosity and 
covetousness prove rather troublesome. The most 
interesting character among them makes himself well 
known to all visitors, and would, if divested of the 
fear of royal displeasure, and rightly guided in his 
fondness for foreign customs, become the greatest 
blessing to the nation. He is the younger son of the 
ex-queen ; his elder brother, entitled by birthright to 
the throne, in the place of the reigning monarch, has 
become a priest, by which he is saved the mortification 
of bowing down to one whom he is unwilling to re- 
gard as his superior. The title of our visitor is, 
" Lord of heaven." His age is about twenty-three. 
He has acquired a smattering of English, and is one 
of the most intelligent, manly, and improvable charac- 
ters in the kingdom. He is desirous to obtain a cor- 
rect knowledge of our language, and probably makes 
this his principal object in visiting us. Our prayerful 
endeavor is to instruct him in the principles of the 
Gospel, and bring him to a knowledge of " the truth 
as it is in Jesus." We are animated in our efforts by 
the mere possibility that he may be preparing to exert 
an extensive influence in favor of Christianity — that 



233 



perhaps he may be kept from the throne, only to fill 
it in future as " a nursing father" to the church. 

This evening is the fourth in succession that we 
have been honored by the visits of young men in the 
higher walks of life. One of them was a prince, to 
whom Mr. Tomlin had given an English Bible when 
at Siam before. He has a peculiarly amiable counte- 
nance, and fascinating demeanor ; but, like all his 
countrymen, is as inquisitive as a child in examining 
every foreign trifle that catches his eye. He took the 
last bound tract on our table, and left upon our minds 
an impressive concern for his everlasting welfare. 

Two of the Prah Klang's sons, with their suites, 
spent the last evening with us. The elder is an in- 
telligent though crafty youth, who exerts a powerful 
influence for one of his age, and is probably destined 
to make a conspicuous figure on the political arena of 
Siam, From his inquiries about the book we had 
been distributing, whether it was written and printed 
by natives, and, if not, who it was that had taught 
foreigners the language, we thought we saw symptoms 
of alarm, or suspicion, which were probably transmit- 
ted from the old man who sent him. We gave him 
an unbound volume of the book, about which he in- 
quired, assured that he could find nothing exceptiona- 
ble in it, and hoping that he might be led to examine 
it much more minutely and profitably, than the when, 
the where, and the how, of its production. 

August 22d. — An event occurred to-day, which 
we earnestly pray may be repeated, until the whole 
kingdom is converted to Christ. A priest, of a very 
Respectable appearance and train, sent a messenger be^ 

21 



fore him, to inform us that he had read our book with 
approbation, and being unable to comprehend some 
of its doctrines, would be happy to receive from our 
lips a solution of his difficulties. He waited a short 
distance from the house, until the messenger returned 
to him with a favorable answer. He remained a long 
time, and plied us with such questions as convinced 
us that he had thought deeply on the subjects. The 
Savior of sinners was the burden of his inquiries — 
who he was — what was the distinction between him 
and the Father — whether his love extended to men of 
all nations — how he expiated the sins of the guilty— 
and whether God the Father bore an equal affection 
to the world. 

He was particular in inquiring about the nature of 
sin, the process by which the heart could be sanctifi- 
ed, and the manner of divine worship. Many points of 
minor importance were proposed, and a number of his 
own opinions submitted to the test of our faith. Such 
was the earnestness of the man, that when he thought 
his questions not perfectly understood, he would turn 
to a Chinese youth in his train, and beg him to put 
the inquiry in Chinese. It afforded a good opportuni- 
ty for preaching the Gospel to apparent advantage, 
and many most important ideas were suggested to his 
inquiring mind. 

September 10th. — Three priests of distinction spent 
part of the evening with us. Probably with the fears, 
though evidently not the object of Nicodemus, they 
came " by night." They had been before, and had 
greatly interested us by their mild and friendly demea- 
nor. Of Jesus and his religion, they always speak 



with approbation, though, we fear, not always with 
sincerity. It is delightful that his blessed name, and 
some knowledge of his character and offices, are be- 
coming familiar to these deluded men. It is by no 
means uncommon for us to be saluted by the title of 
disciples of Jesus, — often with an encomium upon 
the gracious Being whom we serve. The folly and 
consequences of idol worship were plainly pointed 
out to-night, and the unpublished portion of Scripture, 
containing the sermon on the mount, given to one of 
them to read aloud. 

That their own religion sits lightly upon many of 
them, is evident from numerous facts. Some of them 
do not hesitate to eat, and even to ask us for, articles 
strictly prohibited in their laws, Though not allowed 
to partake of any thing after the mid-day meal, two of 
our visitors had infringed the rules before, and were 
waiting to-night only for the assent of their superior. 

Since our arrival, the priests have constituted 3, 
large proportion of our visitors. Hundreds, probably 
thousands, have applied for books and medicines, and 
not a few of them have become very sociable, and fre- 
quently spend part of the day, or evening, with us. 
They express not the least aversion to the dissemina- 
tion of a faith, which they might know is opposed to 
their own. Many of them, there is every reason to 
believe, care nothing about their own religion, and 
know as little about ours. Not expecting to remain 
in these monasteries beyond the term of their pupilage, 
they appear to feel themselves quite as much at liber- 
ty to gratify their curiosity, as to sacrifice it to an ob- 
ject in which they have no permanent interest. Se- 



SIAM. 



lected from all classes of society, and destined to fill 
all stations in public life — having abundant leisure to 
read, and seemingly desirous to learn the contents of 
our little volume — we should be callous indeed, if our 
hearts did not often move with sorrow for their blind- 
ness, and prompt the most fervent intercessions on 
their behalf. 

Our most frequent visitor was introduced to us by a 
note from Gutzlaff. in which, he is recommended as 
■ a friend of truth, thoroughly versed in the doctrines 
of Buddhism, humble and docile, a chaplain to his 
majesty.'* He is far above the standard of his coun- 
trymen; and one of the finest models of unchristian- 
ized men we ever saw. He evinces nothing of the 
idle curiosity of his countrymen ; but is fond of sci- 
ence, and particularly anxious to learn the habits, lan- 
guages, and religions of other nations. He comes 
often for instruction, and proves himself an apt and as- 
siduous scholar. There is something more than ordi- 
narily engaging in his countenance and deportment : 
and the knowledge he has acquired of Christianity; 
and the apparent candor with which he speaks of the 
gracious Redeemer, render ten-fold more deplorable 
his remaining darkness, and controlling fears. At his 
first visit we gave him the manuscript life of Jesus, 
which he read : since then, he has taken different 
parts of the unpublished Gospels for perusal. 

September 19th. — Spent part of the afternoon; and 
dined, in company with one of the Cambojian princes. 
He was anxious to see the style; and taste the dishes 
of a European dinner; and Mr. Silveira very obliging- 
ly gratified him. About twenty years ago, himself 



SIAM. 



239 



and elder brother fled from some disturbances in their 
own country, and placed themselves under the pro- 
tection of the king of Siam. The king of Cambodjia, 
their father, has since died, and though the brother was 
the lawful heir to the throne, their patron has sternly 
refused them the liberty of returning home. A 
brother younger than either of those in Siam, has 
obtained the crown. 

This prince, though among the most intellectual in 
the kingdom, has still all the curiosity of the most 
ignorant. Much of his time in the company of for- 
eigners, is employed in making familiar and ludicrous 
remarks to his attendants. These generally spread 
themselves on the floor, according to an order which 
appears to exist among them, and as near his chair as 
possible. Whatever strikes the prince as peculiarly 
good or offensive, he hesitates not to pass to his pros- 
trate train, for examination and remark. 

The two most important facts we have gathered 
to-day, are that Cambodjia contains more than half the 
population of Siam, and has no Romish priests to op- 
pose the introduction of pure religion. As far as we 
can determine, a few catechists are all that the Roman 
Catholics have been able or disposed to furnish their 
proselytes in that country, although the priests from 
Cochin-China and Siam occasionally pay them a visit. 

There is every reason to believe that a Protestant 
mission might be planted in Cambodjia. The best 
situation would probably be near one of the mouths 
of its famous river, or perhaps in the vicinity of some 
of the settlements of Malays, Chinese or Japanese, 
who have emigrated to that country. An annual tra- 

21* 



2iO 



SIAM< 



ding vessel visiting the place would be of double utili- 
ty—rendering an acceptable, if not a necessary ser- 
vice to the missionaries, and improving by its traffic 
the secular condition of the people. Here asrain we 
must look to the n ships of Tarshish" for those pre- 
paratory and consecutive services, by which the Sav- 
ior's reisn on earth, we believe is to be hastened. 

October 22d 3 1831.— The present month is one of 
special interest to the Siamese. The priests are kept 
more employed at their solemnities than at any other 
time, and the whole nation, including the king", show 
more than a usual devotion to their idols. Offerings 
are made to the river, for its use and abuse, during the 
year. A part of their ceremonies consists in illumin- 
ations and fire-works. 

Last night we took a boat, and went to the palace 
to witness an exhibition, in which the monarch him- 
self takes an active part. The current, which at this 
season runs usually at the rate of four or five miles 
an hour, kept us some time on the way. and made us 
avail ourselves of every course in which its strength 
could be best avoided. Part of the way. we passed 
among boats moored near the shore : part, between 
floating houses and the land, and part, through small 
creeks or canals, which run nearly parallel with the 
river. This afforded another opportunity of seeing 
the style in which multitudes are obliged, and appa- 
rently contented, to live. The contrast is striking be- 
tween the small and well-peopled huts of the com- 
mon classes., and the spacious ground and buildings 
of some of the princes. These last occupy the best 
situations on shore, and are generally grouped with 



SIAM a 



temples, and the dwellings of priests who are sup- 
ported at their expense. 

We passed the Prah Klang 3 sitting in one of the 
floating houses, amusing himself with firing squibs 
in the water. The number and variety of small 
boats before the palace did not equal our expectations. 
As a mark of respect we were all obliged to keep on 
the opposite side of the river, whence the person of 
the king could not be distinguished. We waited un- 
til near midnight, before a lamp was lighted at the 
palace. A discharge of fire-works w r as then heard, 
and two large vessels, on either side of the king's wa- 
tering-house, were lighted up with lamps. Then a 
number of small boats were richly illuminated, and 
sent down the tide. After which, rockets and a few 
inferior exhibitions of fire-works, were presented. 

The full-orbed moon moving in silent majesty 
above us, and shedding a lovely radiance over the 
scene, repaid us richly for the beauties which her lus- 
ter had eclipsed. When shall " her light be as the 
light of the sun, and the light of the sun as the light 
of seven days," in (: this region and shadow of death !" 

November 8th. — For a number of days, the king 
has been visiting the pagodas supported by himself, 
and furnishing the priests with such articles of neces- 
sity and luxury, as his zeal and bounty dictate. This 
work is considered highly meritorious ; it is perforat- 
ed annually at this season. The temples built and 
supplied from the king's treasury are numerous, 
amounting to between twenty and thirty, and many 
days are usually expended in completing the round. 
The principal priest of each temple is arrayed on 



242 



StAM. 



these occasions by the hand of his royal master — the 
priest, according to the humble profession of the mon- 
arch, being the superior, 

To-day the procession passed our house. It con- 
sisted of perhaps a hundred barges— many of them 
more elegant than any thing of the kind. I had ever 
beheld. The guard-boats — a splendid array — led the 
van. Some of them were so long and narrow, and 
so well manned, that they were capable of almost 
volatile speed, though at the slightest inclination it 
was evident that they would plunge their contents in 
the wave beneath them. Others of more substantial 
material, and larger dimensions, carried pieces of ord- 
nance on pivots, and were managed by soldiers dres- 
sed in a flaming uniform. 

The king's galley followed, said to be at least one 
hundred and twenty feet in length, and propelled by 
eighty men. A curve at the bow and stern raises it 
some distance above the surface of the water, and 
adds much to the elegance of its structure. It is 
made of one tree, and many lives were sacrificed in 
transferring it from its original bed to this place. 
This, however, is no consideration with the Siamese. 
It is by no means uncommon for numbers to perish, 
in conveying the kings, or men of authority, on expe- 
ditions of importance. Excessive toil, an exhausting 
climate^ and want of relief — the boats being too narrow 
to carry more than one set of hands— soon produce 
fatal consequences to the unpitied boatmen. 

His majesty ? s portly person had no other covering 
than a cloth about the loins : he was attended by a 
few of the women and children of his large family. 



243 



The boats of the princes followed, many of them but 
little inferior to the king's, and all with horses' tails, 
— the insignia of their rank, suspended from the bow. 
The train was closed by the barges of persons of less 
importance, and the whole extended probably more 
than a mile. We were obliged, at the command of a 
precursor, to shut the door, — a ceremony expected 
from all, before whose houses such a sacred personage 
passes. The length of the array — the great diversity 
of boats — the unanimous shouts bursting from so ma- 
ny lips — the noise of those who beat time, with the 
uniform motions of the paddles, and the rapidity with 
which the pageant hastened by, rendered the scene as 
lively to the senses, as its object was sickening to the 
mind of the Christian beholder. How dreadful is 
the influence of the great deceiver over this nation, 
commanding his thousands of the pride and power of 
the kingdom to one feat of idolatry. 

December 1st. — For about two months, the Mei- 
nam has overflowed its banks, and laid the surround- 
ing country under water. It is said not to have 
equaled its present hight for the last thirty years. 
This morning we took a boat and steered for the fields 
where we had repeatedly walked, expecting to see one 
liquid expanse, unbroken save by the trees and scatter- 
ed houses. We were disappointed, for though we 
proceeded some distance, and might have gone as 
much farther as we pleased, the luxuriant rice had so 
far overtopped the level of the water, that at a dis- 
tance the latter was not perceptible. The laborers 
were moving about in boats, cutting the paddy, and at- 
tending to other business, The country is nearly a 



244 



SIAM. 



dead level, for an immense distance, and so general is 
the present flood, that it is said you can leave the 
channel of the river, and make a straight course to 
Juthia, the ancient capital, about one hundred miles 
distant. 

That there would be some obstruction from the tops 
of the paddy appears to us very evident, unless the 
soil is more depressed, or less productive above Ban- 
kok than in its immediate vicinity. The houses built 
upon rafts have greatly the advantage at the present 
crisis. In many of the others the water is so deep, 
that their occupants are obliged to erect platforms 
above the floor upon which to sit and sleep. It is a 
time of suffering to the poor, many of whom have 
made no provision for this exigence, and are compell- 
ed to throw themselves upon the charities of a heart- 
less people. 

December 6th. — About a fortnight ago, a China 
boy appeared before our door, and being friendless, 
poor, and ill, entreated us to take him in. His case 
demanded our pity, and we could not refuse. His 
employment had been suspended on account of the 
overflowing of the waters, and no man would receive 
him. While they have means, there is no want of 
relatives and friends ; but when the appeal is only 
to pity, it is of little avail. The cruelty of the Qhi- 
nese especially, is unnatural. They have even 
brought their sick, reduced to the last extremity of dis- 
ease, and after laying them before the door, endeavor- 
ed to make their escape unobserved, glad to get rid 
of the incumbrance, and careless of the consequen- 
ces. The boy lingered until Sunday, when he was 



BtAM. 



243 



found dead on the steps leading to his door. He had 
probably felt a sense of suffocation, and died in the 
attempt to get into the air. 

There was something very affecting in his case* 
Of six of the dialects spoken in the empire, and em- 
ployed more or less by those who are found in these 
parts, his was the only one of which neither our 
teacher nor ourselves knew any thing. We had both 
been laboring the very day of his death to communi- 
cate some idea of spiritual things to his mind, but 
without effect. Oh, how impressive is the call from 
the clay, which its immortal tenant, in deep ignorance 
has just left ! 

December 25th, Sabbath. — Besides the small band 3 
Consisting of only four or six, who usually worship 
with us, there were two strangers present this morn- 
ing. They had called for medicines before, and from 
their willingness to listen to the doctrines of salva- 
tion, and a partial knowledge of these doctrines pre- 
viously obtained, much interest was excited on their 
behalf. One of them mentioned a few days ago, that 
he had known the God of heaven for a number of 
years ; but had never seen the " sacred books," — 
doubtless a very imperfect acquaintance. The other 
said that his neighbors came to his house to worship 
the true God with him ; but here again we cannot 
but suspect a near approach to heathenism, both in 
their ideas of the Lord and of the manner of his 
worship. 

They appear, however, like those who are "feeling 
after the Lord," and we earnestly hope that He may 
be found of them. There is something so peculiaf 



846 



in their case, that we are encouraged to believe an in- 
visible hand is leading them " oat of darkness into 
marvelous light." . 

27th. — To-day we saw an illustration of heathen 
cruelty. The skiff of a lad was upset a short dis- 
tance from the shore. He clung to the boat and beg- 
ged the assistance of two men going by. They pas- 
sed within a few feet of him and paid no attention to 
his request. He was carried about half a mile, with 
a strong current, and though others approached very 
near, none would stop to rescue him. When I saw 
him last, he was laboring with his feet and the pad- 
dle, to get his boat to the shore. I asked the inhuman 
men the cause of their cruelty. Some made no re* 
ply. One answered in a tone of excitement, " He did 
not call,'' though he evidently knew not, if he even 
turned to see, whether the lad was not too much ex- 
hausted for the exertion. Though this instance is 
the first of the kind I have seen, it is by no means un- 
common. Mr. Tomlin says, they have even been 
obliged to hire them to rescue their suffering fellow- 
men from imminent danger. What a blessing is the 
Gospel, in its meliorating as well as saving influences, 
upon the character of man ! 

Another event, which evinces the patriotism, per- 
haps the cruelty, of a Brutus, has recently occurred. 
The king was informed that his son, the heir appa- 
rent of the throne, was in the habit of smoking opi- 
um. He immediately commanded his property to be 
sold, and his person to be arrested and imprisoned, for 
execution. The mother interceded in vain. The 
other princes, and men in authority, exerted their in- 



SIAM. 



24f 



fiuence in behalf of the youth, with no better effect. 
The second king, though very ill, finding that the 
prince was about to suffer a cruel death for a common 
crime, was conveyed to the palace, and succeeded in 
averting the threatened doom. The circumstance 
has produced considerable excitement, and may tend, 
in a measure, to prevent the prevalence of a ruinous 
vice. 

December 29th. — To-day we are cheered by some 
pleasing facts, which render it evident that the 
seed sown in this wilderness begins to appear. The 
two persons mentioned, as the increase to the usual 
number of Sabbath worshipers, came again to-day. 
One of them had had his head cut by a stone thrown 
at him, while these two and a friend were convened 
for reading the Scriptures and prayer. The house, 
they say, was assailed by a number of Siamese, who 
were probably offended at their departure from the 
heathenish customs of their neighbors. They were 
informed of the sufferings often endured by God's chil- 
dren, for the same cause, and they manifested no dis- 
position to be prevented from their newly commenced 
duties. 

In visiting a sick man, who is in a shocking state 
of disease, we found that he knew something of the 
Lord, and professed to worship him alone. He was 
too weak to read himself, but a neighbor came in, and 
read the Christian tract to him. This neighbor had 
been employed as a carpenter, by us, and manifested 
much intelligence and interest in his inquiries about 
the Christian religion. Yesterday he was instructed, 
at his own request, in the nature of prayer — a subject 

22 



S48 



upon which their previous notions render the nation 
absurdly ignorant. My teacher, whose own heart is 
like the nether millstone, mentioned the case of a man 
who came to see him after the business of the day, to 
have the sacred books explained. He said that the 
man had no idea how the Lord of heaven should be 
worshiped, and when informed of our Sabbath servi- 
ces, asked whether he might attend. 

Another striking case occurred in the dispensary 
to-day. While a lad was employed in reading part of 
a Siamese tract, another, of about eight or nine years 
of age, who sat near, repeated some of it before him. 
I asked him how he knew it; he replied that his fa- 
ther and mother taught him — that they read the 
Christian tract every day, and worshiped the Lord of 
heaven. That there is some truth in this, is evident 
from his own knowledge. 

Thus the Lord shows us that our labors are not in 
vain, just at the time when my companion is leaving 
the place, and my own health has become so much im- 
paired, as to unfit me in a great measure for exertion, 
and to render a change desirable, if not necessary* 
How important that this, and every other heathen sta- 
tion, should be occupied by numbers, that when some 
were compelled to retire, others might remain to carry 
on the work. 

January 2d, 1832. — The priest who was at first in- 
troduced to us by letter, and who has called repeatedly 
since, came this evening with another, who had also 
visited us previously. They had heard before enter- 
ing the house that we both were going, and appeared 
more than usually affectionate. We spent all the 



SIAM. 



249 



evening in endeavoring to persuade them to turn from 
idols to the only living and true God. They listened 
with attention, asked many questions — one of which 
was, whether God disallowed idol worship — and ap- 
peared more solemn than we had seen them before. 
The superior has a mind of ready and comprehensive 
powers. He has copied nearly two of the Gospels, 
and generally understands what he reads. He spoke 
of the fig tree which Jesus cursed, and we endeavor- 
ed to enforce its application upon himself. We have 
reason to believe that he is convinced of the folly of 
idolatry, and impressed in some degree with the rea- 
sonableness, if not necessity, of the Christian religion. 
But his rank is high, and the consequences of changing 
his faith, which his grasping mind no doubt fully 
apprehends, will probably produce a struggle of soul, 
before he is made to submit. His plea for not being 
a Christian, is ignorance. He says he knows but lit- 
tle yet, May "the fear of God which is the begin- 
ning of wisdom/' embolden him to profess Christ be- 
fore his perishing countrymen. 

January. — There is something in the beauty of the 
heavens at this season of the year, which makes up 
for the destitution of every earthly charm, and exceeds 
anything I ever noticed in other climates. For many 
weeks there has scarcely fallen a drop of rain. The 
atmosphere during the day is so clear, that the eye 
Wanders through the boundless field of vision, with a 
most animating range. Nothing can exceed the glo- 
ries of the morning" and evening twilight. The bur- 
nished heavens, — the broad rays of the hidden sun, 
shooting up the wide arch of the firmament. — often sue 



259 



ceeded by transverse streaks of the most delicate and 
varying colors, and these yielding to a thousand softer 
and still softer tinges, hold our eyes and hearts at the 
close of each day, in glowing admiration, until the 
stars have one by one unveiled their glories, and all 
the celestial worlds beam forth through the azure with 
the brightest radiance. Between the rains and the 
commencement of the hot weather — a space of per- 
haps three months — the climate is delightfully tempe- 
rate. The summer commences very early, and the 
heat is often intense before the rainy season begins. 

January 5th. — As we passed up the river this morn- 
ing, the gilded temples and spires of idolatry gleamed 
in the first rays of the rising sun, and shed a luster 
on the scene around them. Priests in crowds were 
passing about, while women with large vessels of boil- 
ed rice, and other provisions, were sitting before the 
doors of the floating houses, or in their boats, measur- 
ing to each his allowance. This finished, they put 
both hands to their forehead, by which gesture they 
worship their idols, while the priest deigns them no 
recognition of their reverence. We called upon a man 
in public office, and were informed that the king is 
preparing to consecrate eight new, and newly repaired 
temples. On the occasion he throws away avast sum 
of money in support of his "royal estate." A fixed es- 
timate is placed upon his person, his palace, some of 
his wives, his sons, his plate and other articles. Each 
distinct sum is written on a scrap of paper, and put 
within a lemon. Some of them amount to one thou- 
sand dollars a piece. His majesty ascends an eleva- 
ted place, and scatters these lemons among the assem- 



SIAM. 



251 



bled crowd, and those who get them receive their re- 
spective sums, upon presenting the paper. Thus like 
the afflicted at the pool of Bethesda, the most needy- 
are thrust aside, while the more vigorous and less mis- 
erable come before and divide the spoil. 

We passed a funeral procession. The body was 
placed in a coffin shaded by a large canopy. From 
the coffin a piece of white cloth was passed over the 
shoulder of a lad, dressed to represent an angel, and 
fastened to the garment of a priest, sitting near the bow 
of the boat. By this means they say the priest con- 
ducts the deceased to happiness. The body is then 
taken to a temple, and burned according to the custom 
of the country. 

Before returning, we called at two of the most spa- 
cious and magnificent pagodas in the city. The su- 
periority of the one consists in the situation and ar- 
rangement of its buildings — the other in their multipli- 
city and magnificence. In entering the outer court of 
the latter, the attention is first arrested by large im- 
ages, more like horses than any other animals, and 
occupying the place of warders. All the gates are 
guarded by these, and another class of still stranger 
figures, intended to represent the body of a man, with 
a face of mixed features — a combination of man, beast, 
and bird — ail distorted, and giving the countenance a 
hideous expression. Within this outer court, are a 
large temple and oratory, where the priests deliver 
their discourses, two or three high towers and an ex- 
tensive row of open buildings. Having passed through 
the court, you enter a second gate, and find a more 

22* 



spacious area, surrounded by walls and corridors, and 
embellished with spires of still larger proportions. 

A quadrangular block of buildings stands in the 
middle of this area, having a central temple on each 
side, and connected by smaller ranges. We entered 
one of the large temples, desirous, if possible, to pass 
through and examine the interior. A number of 
priests were stretched upon their beds, sleeping : oth- 
ers were whiling away the time at trifling employ- 
ments, and before them and a large idol, objects of 
nearly equal veneration, women were worshiping, 
Again our irreverence was the subject of inquiry, and 
again we pointed them to Him who had denounced 
such abominations, and who alone is to be worshiped, 
Some were silent and sullen, and refused to open the 
inner door. One who had perhaps received a ray of 
true light, helped us in explaining our message. Af- 
ter almost compassing the buildings, which proved no 
inconsiderable walk, we found an open door, and en- 
tered. The whole outer range we had thus surround- 
ed, with another of nearly equal extent, a few feet 
within, was completely filled with rows of gilded im- 
ages, of different sizes, and in different attitudes. The 
number of idols was variously stated by the priests, 
and others.' Our own calculation made the aggre- 
gate between six and seven hundred, though we 
could not have seen them all, and none of the natives 
would admit that there were less than a thousand. 
The largest image was upwards of thirty-five feet 
high. Inclosed by these ranges of buildings we 
found another court, containing a number of tasteful 
ornaments,, of a pyramidal form, and with a splendid 



25? 



temple in the center. Had " Holiness to the Lord/" 
been inscribed here, this inner temple, as guarded as 
the "sanctum sanctorum," would have appeared more 
beautiful than any thing of the kind we had ever seen. 

While our eyes were employed in examining these 
objects of admiration and horror, our tongues were ac- 
tive in argument with the priests and others who fol- 
lowed us. The longest discussion took place in pre- 
sence of the largest idol, with two young men, who 
were more zealous for the honor of their gods, than 
any we had before met. One of them insisted that the 
image could speak, for pointing to a large tablet be- 
fore him, he said 11 all this was dictated by him." The 
other, retorting our exposure of their folly, scornfully 
represented the cross, with his fingers, believing that 
all foreigners were Roman Catholic idolaters, and 
plainly showing that papal abominations had proved 
an offense, even to these ignorant heathen. We were 
assisted in correcting this mistake — alas, how com- 
mon among the ignorant ! — by an intelligent looking 
man of middle age, who had evidently received some 
correct and impressive knowledge of Christianity — 
probably from the hooks, and who aided us in our ar- 
guments with much apparent interest. 

In some of their temples there is a gfleat display of 
paintings, and the subjects brought together show the 
extreme ignorance and depravity of the nation. The 
walls of one of them which 1 visited, were completely 
covered with representations of heaven, earth, hell, 
and one of the stars of which their books speak. 
There were angels, men, and monkeys, foreigners, or 
caricatures of white men, and dignified natives — 



254 



SIAM. 



Scenes of gaiety and sadness — by land and sea — of 
war and peace — with almost every sketch which could 
be framed from their sacred books, or conceived by 
their versatile limners. Such another chamber of im- 
agery I never beheld. My informant, the prince, re- 
marked that the object of these paintings was to in- 
struct the illiterate, through the medium of their 
senses. How far he is indebted to some of his friends 
for this truly papal apology, I know not ; but that he 
is familiar with many of the notions of the Romish 
church, is quite evident. One day he pointed to the 
tower connected with a temple, and inquired if I knew 
what was deposited in it. I told him that I had 
heard that some of them contained money. He re- 
plied, not money, but the bones of God. I asked him 
how that was possible, for God has no body, and a 
spirit has no bones. He answered the Roman Cath- 
olics speak of the bones of God. I told him that the 
Roman Catholics in these countries were very igno- 
rant ; but I scarcely believed quite so ignorant as to 
speak of preserving the bones of God — they must have 
meant the bones of good men. O yes, said he, I 
mean the same thing, these are the bones of good men. 
I am not certain but that my apology was unwarrant- 
ed, for their faints hold the same place and receive 
the same honors, as the gods of the heathen. 

The journal of our first visit to Siam closes with 
the last notice. The greater part of the occurrences 
recorded at the time, have been omitted. Enough has 
been extracted, to present to those who did not read 
the journal, some glimpses of Siam and her popula- 
tion, as well as some idea of the means employed to 



SIAM. 



255 



raise them in the scale of human and responsible be- 
ings. The most important inquiry remains to be an- 
swered — What has been the result of these exertions 
and favorable appearances — how many "have turned 
to God from idols, to serve the living and true God. 
and to wait for His Son from heaven ?" We answer : 
We know not that this has been the case with any — 
the time has been too contracted to draw a conclu- 
sion. A heathen's mind cannot be enlightened in a 
day, neither is it reasonable to suppose that his heart 
will be renovated, until his judgment is reformed. 
The means which ordinarily lead to this result have 
not been employed. We have done little more than 
scatter the good seed, and that upon ground loaded 
with noxious weeds, without having had time to wit- 
ness its springing, still less to cherish it into lively 
strength. 

And here it may not be misplaced to caution the 
reader against those favorable, though false conclu- 
sions, which are too frequently deduced from mission- 
ary journals. The difficulties of writing so as to in- 
form the Christian world of actual occurrences, and 
yet not to sacrifice a faithful report to the dreaded 
evils of misinterpretation, every missionary must feel. 
The song of the ploughman and sower, especially if 
he express the joyous expectation of the harvest, is 
confounded with the shouts of the reaper, and then, 
when the mistake is discovered, the laborer and not 
the listener is blamed. We do not say that no mis- 
conceptions have been transferred from the mind of 
the sanguine reporter to his reader ; but in the great 
majority of cases where mistakes exist, we believe 



356 



SIAM, 



they originate with the latter. For instance, when 
we speak of the avidity with which the heathen re- 
ceive Christian books, the best motive is charitably 
conceded them, when even the worst may have been 
artfully concealed. When their conversation is de- 
tailed, they receive credit for a certain amount of 
knowledge, which among Christians is connected with 
their expressed sentiments, but which their future 
lives prove they do not possess. They are believed 
sincere, when they neither feel what they say, nor 
know that the truths they profess should control the 
heart. Their own views and associations of every 
thing sacred are so opposite to ours, that without 
much experience and severe scrutiny, we cannot de- 
termine the standard by which to test them : and even 
with this intimate acquaintance with their modes of 
thought, and measures of estimate, there is constant 
danger of being deceived through the hypocrisy of 
some, and the self-ignorance of others. 

In our excursions abroad, and in their visits to us. 
we met with numbers who evinced a superficial know- 
ledge of the contents of the book we had distributed. 
A few seamed to manifest some impression of the 
truth upon their hearts. We had pleasing evidence 
that the spirit of inquiry was abroad ; but there were 
no grounds of certainty to conclude that any had been 
;: renewed in the spirit of their minds/' 



CHAFER XL 



PASSAGE TO SINGAPORE AND MALACCA, 

January 14th, 1832. — Soon after midnight, on 
Friday last, we left Bankok and proceeded in a barge 
to Paknam, where the brig Sebastian was lying, 
Capt. D. L. Shaw had insisted upon our taking a pas- 
sage with him, for which he refused all compensation, 
Messrs. Hunter and McDonald, by whom the ship was 
chartered, and the only Europeans in the place, were 
among our fellow passengers. We reached the brig 
early on Saturday morning, and immediately weighed 
anchor. In passing over the bar at the mouth of the 
Meinam, the line ^ave just as much water as the ves- 
sel drew ; yet nothing occurred to impede our progress, 
and in a few hours we were ploughing our way down 
the Gulf of Siam. With a leading wind almost the 
whole passage, and with no obstacle, apparent danger, 
or peculiarity of any kind, we reached Singapore yes- 
terday (Friday) morning. I took up my abode with 
Mr. Thomsen, and Mr. Tomlin proceeded to Malacca, 
where Mrs. T. is residing. 

Singapore is an important missionary station. It 
contains a population of about twenty-one thousand 



25S 



SINGAPORE. 



souls, of whom upwards of eight thousand are Chi- 
nese, and seven thousand Malays. The remainder 
consist of Europeans, (of these, there are upwards of 
one hundred.) Indo-Britains, Armenians, Arabs, Hin- 
doos, Bugis, and Javanese. As a sphere for missionary 
operations, Singapore owes its greatest value to its rela- 
tive advantages. There is no other mart of commerce 
so much frequented by native vessels, from the differ- 
ent kingdoms and islands of South-Eastern Asia. 
China, Cochin-Cliina. Cambojia, Siam, the Malayan 
Peninsula, on the continent, and Sumatra, Java, Bor- 
neo, Celebes, Bali, Manilla, besides many other islands 
farther east, and numerous places of less importance, 
in all the neighboring settlements of the Straits, send 
forth their yearly fleets to this free port ; and return 
to their respective places, loaded with the comforts, 
the luxuries, drugs and dregs of civilized nations. 
Many of these proas are from places which have nev- 
er been frequented by Europeans, and where there 
would be the utmost hazard in venturing. 

How important that this fountain of commerce 
should be supplied with " the water of life," and made 
to send forth its rich streams into the different and 
distant tracts of heathenism with which it commu- 
nicates. 

But like the other ultra-Ganges stations, Singapore 
has received very little attention from Christian socie- 
ties at home. At present, Mr. Thomsen is the only 
missionary in the place. Being laboriously engaged 
in the work of translation and printing — the primary 
and most indispensable business of a missionary — and 
enervated, almost exhausted, by the ravages of a pro- 



SINGAPORE* 



259 



traded illness, he has but little time and strength to at- 
tend to the external duties of the station. 

Singapore is the great factory of Malayan publica* 
tions, and the depot of Christian books, in the common 
languages of the Straits, and neighboring islands, A 
greatly altered version of the Malayan New Testa- 
ment is nearly completed by Mr. Thomsen, and will 
soon be ready to take the place of the old edition, pre- 
pared by the early Dutch chaplains.* Considering 
the poverty of the language, and the many disadvan- 
tages under which its translation was made, the old 
version is a work of much merit ; still, it contains 
words and phrases quite unintelligible to the reader, 
who neither understands the Arabic vocabulary, nor 
the Bible idiom. Beside this important work, which 
is now partially printed, a number of others have is- 
sued from the same press, and been extensively circu- 
lated. There are at present three Chinese schools, in 
the place, under the superintendence of Miss Martin. 
The little comparative stress laid upon the mere ac- 
quisition of the Chinese characters, as well as the 
pains taken to illustrate the ideas they convey in the 
native tongue of the children, is highly commendable, 
and worthy of universal imitation. A desire to ac- 
quire the language is their only inducement to attend, 
but as the books employed are all adapted to convey a 
far more important knowledge, the great object of the 
teachers may be readily gained without interfering 
with that of the parents and children. 

Formerly there were two or three Malay schools, 



* This edition has been finished, and is now in circulation. 

23 



260 



SINGAPORE. 



under the superintendence of Mrs. Thomsen, but a 
want of sufficient health to contend with the embar- 
rassments, which indifference, indolence, and Maho- 
medanism combined to produce, has obliged her to 
discontinue her labors for the present. 

The good which might be effected in Singapore by 
education, is incalculable. It is true it requires much 
zeal, self-denial, and perseverance in the teachers, but 
if there were those who gave their sole attention to .the 
schools, the obstacles which now exist would gradu- 
ally yield, until the task became comparatively easy. 
The sphere is peculiarly adapted to ladies. A num- 
ber of girl and infant schools might be established, to 
the great advantage of children, parents, and society 
at large. 

The European population of Singapore are greatly 
favored in the faithful preaching of one,* who has 
their eternal welfare at heart, and whose prayers, and 
counsels, and purse, and heart, and hands are devoted 
to every cause that glorifies his Lord. 

January 29th. — We determined to spend part of 
yesterday among the Chinese, Malays, and others in 
the town. The engagement was very animating. 
We soon separated, — Mr. Thomsen took the Malays 
and Kalings, and I the Chinese. "Wherever we stop- 
ped, numbers gathered around us, and listened to our 
remarks, and received our books with the utmost read- 
iness. They even came to the door of the carriage 
to solicit tracts, when they were all disposed of, and 
we were about returning home. 



* The Rev. R. Burn. 



SINGAPORE, 



February 26th. — This morning we took a number 
of books, in three of the most current languages of the 
Straits, and visited the southern and western shores of 
Singapore island. On the way we passed a number 
of boats covered with small mats, and inhabited by 
a race of people, who prefer these confined prisons to 
a residence on land. As their mode of life is the 
same as that of those who dwell on the waters in 
China, and tradition says that the latter are emigrants 
from some external country, it is at least possible, 
that they and the orang laut. t as these are called, may 
have had a common origin. They live almost as ir- 
rationally and slothfullyas the indolent tribes of beasts 
around them. Every movement seems dictated by 
the necessities of the day. 

We found a very thin scattered population on shore, 
scarcely any of whom were capable of reading. They 
had lately caught two or three tigers, of a huge size, 
and terrific appearance. Their snare is a large hole, 
which they fill with water, and then cover over with 
brush. A dog is fastened to the center of a narrow 
board which passes over the pit, and is made of such 
frail material, that when the ravenous animal leaps 
upon his prey, there is nothing to support him, and 
he sinks into the water beneath. In some places the 
country has been cleared and entirely deserted. Af- 
ter forming a settlement, by removing all the thick un- 
derwood, and planting fruit trees, if a sudden death, 
or something a little uncommon occurs, they imagine 
that the place is infested by a malicious spirit, and 
immediately leave it. We found a few Chinese scat- 
tered about, where there were any advantages for 



2G2 



MALACCA* 



making money, and to them, and to ali who could 
read, we gave books, 

March 6th, Tuesday. — I left Singapore for Malacca 
on Saturday, in one of the small vessels plying between 
the two places. I was the only exception to a crew 
and cargo of Chinese, and natives of the country, The 
place assigned for European passengers is so low and 
crammed with goods, that I was obliged to creep into 
it, — and then the only choice of posture was between 
lying and sitting. There was, however, a free cur- 
rent of air, which is far more important in these hot 
regions, than all other external comforts. Had the 
breeze with which we started, continued, twenty-four 
hours would have completed our passage ; but as we 
were becalmed through the greater part of the day, 
we did not arrive until Monday morning. The num- 
ber of Chinese on board afforded free exercise for my 
stammering tongue, and rendered the voyage a season 
of instruction to at least a few of them. 

The town of Malacca, from the offing, has a rural 
aspect. It stands on a plain, with numerous trees in- 
terspersed among the houses, though without any 
striking feature. The mast commanding object in 
the vicinity, is the ruins of a large Romish church, 
founded by Francis Xavier, which occupies the princi- 
pal elevation near the sea-shore. There is a small light- 
house and telegraphic apparatus upon the same site. 
The interior of the country is diversified with a few 
hills, and a range of distant mountains bounds the 
prospect. 

The place is rendered sacred by the early death of 
two most useful missionaries. Milne and Collie are 



MALACCA*, 263 

names which shall ever be remembered among the 
distinguished benefactors of China. Though their ca- 
reer was brief, their labors were arduous, and the 
works they have written and translated into the Chi- 
nese language, are among the means by which the re- 
generation of that empire is to be produced. Mr, 
Hughes is the only missionary at the station. Tom- 
lin returned with me from Siam, to take the superin- 
tendence of the college ; Mr. Kidd, the principal, 
having been obliged to return to Europe for the bene- 
fit of his health. 

March 9th.— Malacca boasts a healthful climate, in- 
teresting scenery, and pleasant roads. The principal 
" drive" for exercise, is around a large Chinese ceme- 
tery, which stretches over an irregular surface of 
ground, and incloses two or three miles within its 
limits. Some of the tombs are extensive and ornamen- 
tal. There are one or two retreats a few miles from 
the town, along the sea-shore, to which the residents 
resort for relaxation from duty, and bodily recrea- 
tion. 

This evening, attended a religious meeting, in one 
of the Chinese schools. It was conducted as lecture 
meetings are in Christian lands, by prayer, singing, 
reading, and exhortation. More than a dozen China- 
men were present, and gave good attention. The 
place, object, worshipers, and especially the season, a 
week day evening, imparted a peculiar interest to the 
occasion. Oh how animating the prospect, when the 
Lord shall be worshiped in heathen, as in Christian 
lands ; much more delightful, when " His will shall 
be done in earth, as it is in heaven." 

23* 



264 



MALACCA* 



March 12th. — The Anglo-Chinese college,- in thm 
place, was instituted for the purpose of qualifying 
young men to become teachers to their countrymen, 
with the earnest hope that the " God of all grace" 
would sanctify their talents to himself. Among the 
few who have fully answered the expectations of the 
missionaries, is Leans;- Afa, who received his early and 
lasting impressions; while engaged as a printer to this 
institution. If native teachers are to become the 
chief instruments in the conversion of the nations, 
schools of this kind are probably the means, by which 
they are to be trained for their office. For some years 
past, the number of young Chinese in the college has 
equaled between five-and-twenty and thirty. The 
aim of the teachers is to give them instruction in the 
Christian books, translated into their language — also 
to teach them the English, and advance them in their 
own literature. All the Chinese connected in any 
capacity with the institution, are called together every 
morning at seven o'clock, for the reading of the Scrip- 
tures, singing and prayer. An hour later, those who 
do not understand the Chinese, are assembled by the 
Malay missionary for the same purpose. The remain- 
der of the time is devoted to their several engage- 
ments, and the day is concluded as it was commenced. 

On the Sabbath, there is preaching in the chapel 
belonging to the society, by both the missionaries, in 
the languages of their departments. Two or three 
stated services are also held in the week, generally in 
the school-rooms, where a small number assemble, and 
the services are conducted as the one described. 

Connected with the college, is a printing establish- 



MALACCA, 



265 



merit, where a large proportion of the Christian books 
distributed at the different Chinese stations, is prepar- 
ed. There are also fonts of English and Arabic type, 
the latter for the Malayan language, Malacca is 
highly and justly celebrated for the number of its na~ 
tive schools. Children of Chinese, Malay, Portu- 
guese, and Kaling parents are all taught in their re- 
spective languages, the truths of Christianity. 

There are, at present, about one hundred and fifty 
or two hundred Chinese boys, belonging to the 
schools, superintended by the principal of the college ; 
one hundred Chinese girls under the instruction of 
Miss Wallace ; between two hundred and fifty and 
three hundred Malay children, under the care of Mr. 
Hughes, the Malay missionary ; and about two hun- 
dred more, principally Tamul and Portuguese, in 
charge of the ladies belonging to the Resident's house- 
hold, and one or two others of a kindred zeal, who 
live in the place. These schools, as the reader may 
infer, afford a fine sphere for female usefulness. They 
have been much blessed with the influence and effi- 
cient labors of active ladies, and might be made still 
more extensively beneficial, if they received the pat- 
ronage from abroad which they require. Alas that 
this should be the chief complaint, in every place 
where efforts are made for the conversion of the hea- 
then. In every plan of Christian benevolence, the 
missionaries and teachers find a liberal patron, an effi- 
cient coadjutor, and a most congenial friend, in the 
Hon. S. Garling, Resident of the station. 

Since the writer left Malacca, several changes have 
occurred. Some of the girls' schools have been sus- 



266 



MALACCA. 



pended for want of funds, and two or three ladies 
who were actively engaged in teaching have been re- 
moved. Mr. and Mrs. Evans, of the London Mission* 
ary Society, have been added to the mission. The 
former has taken the place of Mr. Tomlin in the An- 
glo-Chinese college, and Mr. T. has entered into the 
important work of teaching the young on a more ex- 
tensive plan, than had been pursued before. 

It is highly important, that female education in Ma- 
lacca and in all the East, should be taken up by la- 
dies in Christian countries, and supported with the 
zeal and perseverance which the object demands. 
The author is happy to state that a society for the 
promotion of female education in the East was formed 
in London, in July 1S34. The editor of the London 
edition of this work writes in a note on this place, that 
4 " a grant of £50 (nearly 225 dollars) has already been 
transmitted to the Malacca schools, and the committee 
have made choice of a lady, in all respects well fitted 
for the work, who is now (March 1S35) on the point 
of proceeding thither, to undertake their superintend- 
ance. The committee hope shortly to send an agent 
to Singapore, and they believe that in man}" of the 
places mentioned in this work, schools might be 
established, with every prospect of success, were a suf- 
ficient amount of funds placed at their disposal to ena- 
ble them thus to extend their efforts." 

On Tuesday evening, March 27th, left Malacca in 
a native brig, bound to Singapore, with such a num- 
ber of fellow-passengers, principally Chinese, as at 
night filled the berths, covered the floor of the poop- 
cabin, occupied nearly all of the space below decks. 



SINGAPORE. 



267 



and rendered it difficult to walk, without treading up- 
on some of them. Owing to calms, opposing winds, 
and numerous obstructions on the uncoppered bottom 
of the vessel, we did not arrive until Monday morning, 
April 2d. 

When confined a number of days, with the same 
persons, it is difficult, without a great command of 
their language, to comply with the promptings of duty 
and compassion towards them. The subject of Chris- 
tianity, after being introduced a few times, and en- 
larged upon sufficiently to teach them how they can be 
saved, becomes stale, and requires a variety of phrase- 
ology to place it in different lights, and render it at all 
interesting. One expedient has been adopted, and I 
believe with profit. When assembled in groups for 
conversation, of which they are very fond, I have in- 
terrupted them — offered the most respectable of their 
number a Christian book, to read and explain, for the 
edification of the rest; and then joined the company 
upon the floor, as an auditor and occasional prompter. 
At these seasons I have felt the deepest interest in in- 
terceding in their behalf, and could not but hope that 
the plan would be blessed. 

After returning to Singapore, the writer awaited the 
first opportunity for Siam. During this interval, he 
frequently accompanied Mr. Thomsen, in the distribu- 
tion of books, both on shore, and in the harbor. The 
season at which the Chinese visit the tombs, afforded 
an opportunity for much exertion, both in teaching 
them orally and in distributing books. All the junks 
from China were supplied, and others from Siam, 
which were manned with Chinese sailors. 



268 



PASSAGE TO SIAM. 



April 18th. — Last evening embarked in a China 
junk, for Siam. An effort was made to procure a pas- 
sage, immediately on my arrival from Malacca, but the 
captains of the junks refused to take me, from fear of 
incurring the displeasure of the Siamese king. For 
the present opportunity, I am indebted to the kindness 
of W. Scott, Esq., the custom-house officer, who, from 
his situation, has much influence with the Chinese. 

The junk is about two hundred tons burden. In 
construction she is rather superior to the majority of 
Chinese vessels, presenting a less stern-like, semi-lu- 
nar bow to the water, and consequently being swifter 
and safer. She carries upwards of forty men, and has 
one or two passengers beside myself. Mine is the on- 
ly white face and English tongue on board. It will 
probably surprise a western sailor to learn, that the 
men receive only about fifteen dollars a voyage, which 
consumes generally from four to nine months, and it 
will be no less amusing to a western traveler to hear 
that a native passenger pays but four dollars from 
Singapore to Siam. including his fare, which in itself 
is one, and at times, two months' board and logding. 

The place assigned me, is a box, on the quarter- 
deck, resembling an oven, and so straitened in its di- 
mensions, that I am under the necessity of creeping 
into it, and then can sit upright only upon a low- 
trunk. With the exception of the captain, who prob- 
ably wishes to frighten me out of a little more money, 
or into a little less comfort than was stipulated, the 
crew are rudely civil and obliging. 

19th. — Have succeeded in changing my apartment 
for another at its side, less attractive in external ap- 



PASSAGE TO SIAM. 



pearance, but rather broader and cooler. The cap* 
tain has relaxed the muscles of his face, and we are 
all now on the best possible terms, It proves a great 
sourcs of amusement to them> to see me walk the 
deck for exercise. Bodily exertion of any kind ap- 
pears to the minds of all these natives to be incompati- 
ble with comfort. They have an idea that this ex- 
ercise must be a religious performance ; and when 
I come out they frequently mention the number of 
steps and turns which the duty demands.- I attempt 
to show them, by disappointing their conjectures, that 
this is the suggestion of their own fancies. It re- 
quires much presence of mind, in taking recreation^ 
not to interfere with some of their strange notions. 
They have an idea, that walking with the hands be- 
hind the back is an ill omen, and retards the progress 
of the vessel. Other whims, too numerous and absurd 
to mention, prove rather annoying, where there is lit- 
tle disposition to be unbending in trifles, and none to 
indulge them in their superstitions. I find it an ex- 
cellent school for the employment and improvement of 
my limited ability in that dialect of the language which 
is of the most service in Siam. 

21st. — All things go on well but the junk, and she 
reminds one of a well-saturated log of wood, in her 
grievous, groaning movements. For the last forty- 
eight hours, it is doubtful whether we have made 
more than half the number of miles. When the wind 
is abeam, so great is the lee-way, that there is but lit- 
tle advantage in weighing the large wooden anchor. 
If by any means they are obliged to lower the main- 
sail, it is painful to witness the exertion of muscles and 



270 



PASSAGE TO St AM. 



lungs required to hoist the cumbrous mat* to its 
place. Two windlasses, one of which extends across 
the junk, and the other, from the main-mast to the 
side, are put in requisition, in this laborious task. 
The Chinese seem determined to lay their muscles 
under the least possible obligations to mechanical 
agency. When they wish to pump the ship, a pole is 
placed across, and some hight above the hatch-way, 
to which a pally is suspended. At one end of the 
rope passing through the pully. a large bucket is let 
down and drawn up by a number at the other end. 
while one or two are stationed below to fill it. The 
work goes on most cheerfully, though with the least 
show of subordination — the sailors having generally 
as much to say as the officers, and the officers as much 
to do as the sailors. 

23d. — Last night the riot and revel of idolatry com- 
menced. From the parade of gongs, gilt paper, and 
other ominous articles with which I was familiar. I 
was apprised of their intentions, and my spirit was 
stirred within me, I raised my voice — endeavored to 
convince them of their error, ridiculed their folly, 
warned them of their guilt, tried every expedient : 
but all in vain. The gongfs and drums struck up. the 
paper was lighted, and cast into the sea. and the vain 
offering quickly and irreverently finished. They told 
me that the morrow was the birth-day of their god- 
dess Ma-cho-po. 

This morning, at the dawn of day. the same ser- 
vice was performed, and again at S o'clock, with many 



*The sails of native vessels are generally made of mats. 



Passage { tq siaM-, 



additional offerings of flesh, fish, and cake. Again S 
Summoned my tongue to the contest ; but with no 
•better success than before. Some laughed; others 
were angry. The chief office?, to whose reason an 
appeal was made, and whose previous conduct con- 
vinced me that he was a man of sense, took my inter- 
ference in high dudgeon. My boy, feeling apprehen- 
sive of the consequences of denouncing their popular 
deity with snch forwardness, came and begged me to 
desist. I certainly had no design to irritate them 
needlessly^ nor any fear of attempting what 3. sense of 
duty prompted, What grieved me peculiarly, was 
the oflice of a q&iet, interesting man, somewhat ad- 
vanced in life, who had read the Christian hooks in 
my cabiH, and who appeared to comprehend many of 
their truths. Instead of manifesting the least regard 
for what he had been taught, he stood before ihe im- 
age, kneeled a number of -times, and bowed his hoary- 
head almost to the deck. There was but one retreat 
from this affecting scene, and were it not for this re- 
fuge, the missionary's heart would often sink in utter 
despondency, beneath the pressure of his trials. Oh, 
how refreshing it -is at such seasons, to pour out the 
soul in prayer to Him who not only has the power, 
but has announced his determination to destroy idola- 
try, and restore His ignorant, rebellious creatures t@ 
Himself. 

The conversation on the subject of idolatry, com- 
menced publicly this morning, and resumed at differ- 
ent times throughout the day, will, I sincerely hope, 
lead them to reflect upon the stupidity, as well as the 
crime, of worshiping those whom they acknowledge 

24 



PASSAGE TO SIA3VX, 



to have been but men, and only the dumb images of 
whom they thus reverence. One favorite plea with 
them is, that different countries have different customs, 
— in other words, that fashion is law, and her vaga- 
ries imperious. Another reason which, if true, would 
be more rational, is, that those whom they worship, 
though they were mortals like themselves, have been 
transformed into gods, as the reward of their merit. 

As has been mentioned, one thing which gives pe- 
culiar zest to a Chinaman's sacrifice, is the feast which 
follows. A good sized porker, preserved many months 
for the occasion, was slaughtered this morning, and 
after the formal presentation of part of it to the image, 
applied to the purpose for which it was really intend- 
ed. They had been living before upon rice, salt fish 
and vegetables, and were prepared to welcome and en- 
joy this temporary change of diet. A delicate cut was 
very kindly offered to me, which I accepted, - asking 
no questions for conscience sake/*' Of all their or- 
dinary meats, pork is the favorite among the Chinese, 

May 2d. — Contrary to the expectations of myself 
and others, we were not out of sight of land more than 
twenty-four hours. Five days have nearly passed 
since we opened the rugged scenery of Tringano ; and 
though we have been proceeding with all sails set, and 
a considerable breeze a part of the time, we have 
scarcely succeeded in leaving it out of sight. Trin- 
gano appears to be a projection from the peninsula of 
Malacca, — peculiarly varied in its general aspect, and 
notable for its piracies. It is said that the rajah is the 
head of the banditti. I was by no means grieved to 
learn that our vessel is too large to invite an attack 



PASSAGE ^® SIAM. 



273 



from these desperate marauders. About three years 
ago my friend and fellow-missionary, Medhurst, visit- 
ed this place in a small boat, and encountered the 
most frightful dangers from pirates on the way. 

The revengeful and sanguinary character of its in- 
habitants he thus describes. u What most disgusts and 
offends the eye of a stranger when passing through 
the town of Tringano, is the multitude of deadly wea- 
pons which abound among the people. Every man 
has a k?*eise* sometimes two, and a sword besides, — 
with one, two, and frequently three spears on his 
shoulder ; so that the mass of the people can do no 
work, having to carry such a load of destructive in- 
struments about with them. The consequence is, the 
men are all idlers, and the women do all the work. 
The people being so plentifully armed, quarrels are 
wery frequent and murders not uncommon. Imme- 
diately a cross word is given, the kreise is drawn. If 
the offender endeavors to escape, the spear is thrown 
fit him, and if that misses, another is ready, and fre- 
quently a third, to do the work effectually." " Almost 
every evening one or another falls a victim to these 
deadly weapons. No notice whatever is taken of 
these murders by the ruling powers, however numer- 
ous and glaring they may be. The administration 
of justice is lax in every respect. The thief has only 
to restore the thing stolen and receive a reprimand ; 
but if he is caught a second time making such depre- 
dations, he then loses a hand or foot, which is imme- 
diately cut off at the joint of the wrist or ankle. There 



* A weapon resembling a large dirk. 



2U 



FASSAGE TO SIAM. 



is no such thing as floggings or imprisonment, of 
working in chains : all which degrading punishments 
the high spirit of the Malays would not brook ; gladly 
preferring death in their stead." 

This afternoon,, another feat of idolatry was per- 
formed. It was intended for an act of homage to the 
presiding deity of a hill, opposite to which we are 
sailing. Lamps were lighted, paper burned, cakes 
and fruit spread on a mat, the gongs rung, and the 
aged man spoken of before, bowed his head a number 
of times nearly to the deck. My spirits have seldom 
sunk so low. After what has been said, and what 
their reason assents to, the noise sounded to me like 
the knell of the second death. 

9th — Last night we encountered a severe squall. 
The lightning, thunder, wind and rain gave the scene 
a sublimity, which the hurried confusion and want of 
skill evident among the boatmen, would have convert- 
ed into terror to my mind, had it not been for kC my 
hiding place and my shield." When the squall came 
on, the mate called for gold paper, and holding it up 
before the face of the storm, bowed, and threw it into 
the deep. What particular deity he was thus appeas- 
ing, it would probably have puzzled his own imagin- 
ation to decide. 

Last year it is said that thirty or forty vessels were 
lost, on their return passage from different places, 
My teacher says, that seventeen which sailed from Si- 
am, and four out of six from Singapore, bound to Chi- 
na, never arrived. Several hundreds of their coast- 
ing vessels are reported to have met a similar destiny. 

For two days we have been sailing in the vicinity 



PASSAGE TO SIAM. 



275 



tif most interesting upland scenery. It varies, from 
the small mound, through almost every gradation of 
hight and peculiarity of formation, to the lofty moun- 
tain, at whose feet this morning's mists were spread 
in delicate fleeces, and whose majestic head overlooks 
the floating clouds which love to linger around it 
The castellated form of some of the peaks, rising to a 
considerable perpendicular elevation, is a peculiar 
feature. 

On the coasts of the Malayan peninsula, there are 
a number of native states, in which, according to the 
belief of those who have visited them, missionaries 
might reside and labor. Some of these are subject 
to the king of Siam, and the rest under the govern- 
ment of native rajahs. From the most authentic in- 
formation that could be obtained, both from the na- 
tives themselves, and the Malays in their vicinity, it 
appears there are four tribes of aborigines living in the 
Malayan peninsula, and known by the name of Sa- 
mang, Sakei, Udei, and Rayat. In stature and fea- 
tures they all like the Malays. The Samang tribe 
live in the depths of the forest, and never come down to 
the villages. They neither sow nor plant, but sub- 
sist upon the fruits of the forest, and the spoils of the 
chase. Their sole employment is hunting. What- 
ever they meet they kill with the siimpit, and eat all, 
whether bird, beast, or reptile. Their language is not 
understood by any one but themselves. They lisp 
their words, the sound of which is very indistinct, 
more like the noise of birds than the voices of men. 
They have neither king nor chief, but there is one 
whom they style Puyung, to whom they refer all 

24* 



276 



PASSAGE TO SlASf, 



their requests and complaints, invariably abiding by 
his decision. They have no religion, no priests, and 
no ideas whatever of a Supreme Being, the creation of 
the world, the soul of man, sin, heaven, hell, angels, 
or a day of judgment. The Piiyiing instructs them 
in matters relating to ghosts, evil spirits, and sorcery, 
by the belief of which they are all influenced, They 
never quarrel nor go to war with another tribe. When 
one of the Samang tribe dies, the head only is buried ; 
the body is eaten by the people, who collect in large 
numbers for that purpose. 

The aborigines were originally one tribe only,— 
known in Malacca by the name of Jakon : from them 
sprang the Sakei, UcleL and Rayat, The four tribes 
are much alike, and speak the same language, 
though they keep distinct, Three of them cultivate 
the ground, trade in the neighboring villages, and bury 
their dead. The bark of trees furnishes them with 
clothing, the roots and leaves with medicine, and the 
branches and foliage with shelter for the night, 
They are entirely ignorant of their own history, nei- 
ther knowing whence, nor how, nor when they came 
to the country,* 

10th. — To-day a new feast of idolatry, at least new 
to me. A raft of bamboos was prepared, which they 
almost filled with gold and silver paper. ' This they 
let down into the sea, and then fired the paper, amid 
the noise of the gong, the solemn antics of the old 
man. and the offering of a variety of eatables, some of 



* These extracts are from a small sheer published in the straits of 
Malacca, some time ago- 



4 



PASSAGE TO SIAM, 



277 



which, with less than their usual wisdom, were thrown 
into the water* 

14th. — Last night we cast anchor outside of the bar, 
at the mouth of the Meinam ; and now we are waiting 
for dispatches from the owner at Bankok. Notwith- 
standing the rigid laws of the kingdom against the 
importation of opium, and the rank and office of the 
person to whom the junk belongs, we have a quantity 
on board, which will no doubt detain us, until safely 
smuggled on shore, The weather is very oppressive, 
Scarcely a breath of air finds its way into my apart- 
ment, while the sun beats upon it with his fiercest 
rays. We find ourselves greatly favored, notwith- 
standing the apparent dullness of our daily progress. 
Two junks came to anchor shortly after we arrived, 
one of which sailed a month, and the other half a 
month before us, The last mentioned one refused to 
take me,— another instance of the Lord's kindness in 
disappointing our plans. 

Thus closes the passage. I have seldom, if ever, 
been so much impressed with the degradation of the 
heathen, as during the month spent on board this junk. 
How striking, how total the change which the Gospel 
of Jesus makes in a rational mind ! In fact, no mind 
is rational, until restored to its original harmony by 
the influence of the Gospel. The condition of the 
heathen is more deplorable than that of many ma- 
niacs in Christian lands ; for these may have lucid 
intervals. They are sunk below the brutes, for their 
apprehension of things is correct as far as it goes. 
They are beneath the very stock and stone they wor- 
ship, for these cannot mistake their worshipers for 



2?8 



PASSAGE TO SIAM, 



dead men, — while their worshipers madly confound 
them with the living. Let those who say there are 
no advantages in the Christian religion, come forth 
and look upon these heathen. Civilization, — if that 
which has not a true religion for its basis merits the 
name. — has been exerting its influence for centuries, 
among the nation to which this crew belongs. And 
yet what do they know ? All that they behold in cre- 
ation. — all that they witness in providence. — all that 
their reason can suggest — does not lead them, neither 
did it their sages, to the obvious conclusion, that there 
is one Supreme Being, In regard to the object of the 
present life, the realities of the future, and every thing 
relating to their eternal interests, no frenzied imagina- 
tion could be wilder. And this ignorance extends not 
only to the most important of all truths, but also to 
the most simple subjects of worldly science. Of his- 
tory, geography, astronomy, philosophy, medicine, all 
of which they profess to understand, they know but 
very little : and the influence of that little is nullified 
by the mass of errors with which it is mixed up. I 
sincerely hope that the mode and frequency of social 
worship, and the observance of the Sabbath which 
they have witnessed, together with the books distribu- 
ted, and our frequent conversations, may be blessed to 
the eternal welfare of some of these ignorant, though 
amiable men. Four of us have daily crowded into 
my little den, and regularly maintained a morning and 
evening service. It. has been a source of frequent re- 
gret, that there was no place on board sufficiently spa- 
cious to accommodate more, where the noise and bus- 



PASSAGE TO SIAM. 



279 



tie were not so great as to prevent the performance of 
religious exercises. 

16th. — Still at anchor. A number of Chinese junks 
returning to the empire, and smaller ones passing to 
and from the Meinam. give much life to the scene. It 
is said there are upwards of eighty vessels trading be- 
tween China and Siam this season. Beside the exer- 
cise of patience, it affords a favorable opportunity, as 
the eye ranges over a part of this heathen kingdom, to 
reflect upon the nature and dreadful responsibility of 
the missionary work, under existing circumstances. 
Were it not for the promise of sufficient grace, and 
the constant intercessions of the Advocate with the 
Father, the mind would recoil from the contempla- 
tion, and if it could not bury itself in forgetfulness, 
would lie down in despair. And why should one be 
left to attempt that alone, which devolves upon many ; 
as an equal duty, and which demands the united la- 
bors of a host ? Can the unwillingness, or even the 
deepest sense of unfitness to come up to the help of the 
Lord, release any from the obligation imposed by the 
Savior's command ? Exalted, though neglected Sav- 
ior, arise and plead thine own cause ; then shall the 
heathen be saved. 

19th, Friday. — After a detention of three days, be- 
fore the owner could receive information of our arrival, 
and the opium could be transferred to vessels better 
adapted for smuggling, we weighed anchor, and enter- 
ed the Meinam. With a fresh and free breeze, we 
soon reached Paknam, which is the post of the first 
revenue officer. To this town the river is lined with 
a thick jungle : with no cleared spots, and with but one 



280 



PASSAGE TO SIAM. 



or two fisherman's huts along the shore. The follow- 
ing morning a number of government officers came 
on board, and after drinking tea 3 and disputing with 
the captain some time about the amount of presents 
(more properly bribes) each should receive, they bore 
away their fardels, and left us to proceed. They did 
not know but that every box on board, except one of 
mine which attracted their curiosity, and every part 
of the ship, except the most exposed places, were stow- 
ed with contraband goods. 

To a stranger, the curiosity of the Siamese, and 
country-born Chinese, appears very childish. While 
1 was sitting and conversing with one of them, two or 
three were behind me. examining my dress, and lifting 
up the outer garment to see the texture and number 
of those within. Their cupidity is as annoying as 
their curiosity is amusing. Their ideas of beneficence 
are limited to deeds of alms-giving. — principally the 
support of the priests : and when one of them of some 
rank, heard that I was engaged in labors of benevo- 
lence, he gave me no rest, with his unwearied impor- 
tunity. — first begging for what caught his eyes, and 
then for money. That I should have come to Siam. 
without the expectation or desire of amassing wealth. 
— merely to teach them about the God of heaven, and 
give them books and medicine, was so incredible to 
those who had heard little of the missionaries before, 
that they would repeat the same question about my 
object in coming, as though the reply they uniformly 
received was too absurd to claim a moment's remem- 
brance. 

After the morning scene closed, and the tide favor- 



PASSAGE TO SIAM. 



281 



ed, we proceeded up the river, doubtful whether we 
should be able to pass the situation of another custom- 
house officer, about twelve miles further, without some 
detention. The officer did not even board us. Here, 
as at Paknam, are batteries on each side of the river, 
one of which is very extensive, with a collection of 
native huts in their vicinity. On Friday morning, I 
left the jnnk at anchor a few miles below Bankok, and 
came in a small boat to the house of our former pat- 
ron and friend, Mr. Silveira. 



CHAPTER 



XII, 



SIAM. 

My second residence in Siam consumed between 
five and six months. The object which hastened my 
departure from the Straits, before there could be a ra- 
tional hope of the restoration of health, was the sup- 
plying of the Chinese junks, about returning to the 
empire, with Christian books. It appeared so doubt- 
ful whether, even if I remained longer at Singapore, I 
should not be eventually compelled to try a change 
to a cold climate, that I felt determined, rather to haz- 
ard the experiment upon my health, than to suffer an 
opportunity of such extensive usefulness to pass unim- 
proved. With the blessing of the Lord, striking, and 
encouraging in many respects, I arrived in time to fur- 
nish about fifty junks, bound for China, and Hainam, 
its dependency, with the Scriptures and Christian 
books. The delay of a week would have lessened 
this number materially. Nearly thirty had already 
sailed, and the rest were hastening away with the 
greatest dispatch. The mornings and evenings of 
nearly three weeks wero thus employed, at the close 
of which time a return of debility confined me to ia- 

25 



284 



door labors, and even these received but a superficial 
attention. 

The most hopeful circumstance, concerning the mis^ 
sion, is the number of attendants upon our Sabbath 
services. For the greater part of the time, between 
twelve and twenty Chinese have been present. — few in^ 
deed, contrasted with the myriads, who cling with 
madness to their idols, but encouraging when conv- 
pared with the past. Our auditory has been gradu- 
ally increased by a species of management, which, had 
I remained, would probably have swelled it to a large 
congregation. In conversing with the numerous ap- 
plicants for medicine. I told such as I thought could 
well attend, of our Sabbath services, and appointed 
that day and hour for them to come for a fresh supply 
of medicine. Many who commenced their attend- 
ance through these means, became too much interest- 
ed in their new pursuit to discontinue. Beside this, 
about half a dozen have enjoyed the benefit of daily 
worship and catechetical instruction. The effect has 
been, that the majority have had their ideas on the 
doctrines of Christianity greatly enlarged, and a few 
have manifested such a power of the truth upon their 
hearts, as I sincerely hope may prove to them the 
dawn of an eternal day. These have rejected their 
idols, and established the daily worship of the true 
God. 

I have not ventured to baptize any. and consequent- 
ly denominate none of them converts. The most 
hopeful have lived too far to bring them under such a 
course of instruction as seems important, where the 
mind is just emerging from gross darkness, and where 



SIAM. 



285 



the light itself shines so dimly. I expected soon to 
leave the place, and feared that a change of circum- 
stances might produce a change in their impressions 
and conduct; and what was more controlling to my 
own judgment, 1 knew that if they were the children 
of God, they would remain such — if not, the adminis- 
tration of this rite might prove a source of delusion to 
their own minds, and of scandal to those around 
them. The person who was baptized by my prede- 
cessor, Gutzlaff, appears to know the truth in the love 
of it. He has renounced all the absurd notions and 
customs sanctioned by their religious creeds, and 
blended with the renown of their ancient moralists — an 
evidence of mental renovation, which can be estima- 
ted only by those who know how the Chinese plume 
themselves upon the parade of this knowledge, and 
with what difficulty they are made to abandon it as 
absurd. 

The Siamese were much more reserved than be- 
fore, probably at the suggestion or command of those 
who begin to open their eyes upon the consequences 
of intercourse with us, and tremble for the doom of 
their gods and temples. A fabric of idolatry, so ex- 
tensive and consolidated as the prevailing religion of 
Siam, based upon the interests of a vast body, quite a 
nation of priests, supported by the superstition, the 
pride, and, of course, the power of the kings, the 
princes and the whole community, cannot be expect- 
ed even to totter upon the application of so slight a 
force as we have brought to bear against it. This 
remark is made to guard against the impression of 
many, that the ruling powers of Siam, and the com- 



B1AM. 



iriunity at large, are rather patrons than opposers of 
Christianity. However favorably the few who con- 
templated the subject may have received it when it- 
was novel, and a matter of curious inquiry, yet that 
was not the time of trial. 

The power of the truth in pulling down strong 
holds without; their venerated temples and idols, and 
the still stronger holds within, even all their sacred 
associations, and deep-rooted habits, had not been ex- 
perienced nor understood. Neither do I believe it 
yet known, except to a very limited extent, although 
there appears to have been suspicions in the minds of 
a few. of the object and probable tendency of our la- 
bors in the kingdom. 

The medical department commenced with the mis- 
sion is well adapted to the place. It is calculated to 
give influence to the missionary, if successful in his 
practice. It attracts many from different and distant 
parts, to whom we could otherwise have no possible 
access. It affords an opportunity for instructing those 
who come, and lays them under such obligations as 
can be employed in securing both their attention to 
your remarks, and their attendance upon the establish- 
ed ordinances of religion. But this charity is dicta- 
ted by a regard ro the welfare of this life, as w 7 ell as 
of the life to come. The most common complaints 
are those which yield readily to our applications, but 
whose permanent cure baffles the skill of the natives, 
and resists the power of all their medicines. 

The Chinese doctors, with the wisdom which dis- 
tinguished our own ancestors, mix up as many as 
sixty or seventy different ingredients in one dose. Jgt 



STAM. 



287 



r/orant of chimical affinities and changes, they imagine 
that out of all the articles which make up the com- 
pound, some one will probably have the desired effect. 

The following are a few extracts from the journal 
kept at the time. 

21st. — A busy day. Great numbers for books. 
More than I remember ever to have seen before. They 
were principally Hainam men, from a vessel which 
they are building in our neighborhood. This after- 
noon commenced visiting the China junks, to supply 
them with the Scriptures, and other religious books. 

Having a letter to the captain of the port, who acts 
as interpreter between foreigners and the Prah Klang, 
I called at his house, and was informed that the king 
had commanded his officers to prohibit me from dis- 
tributing the books, which he had heard I brought 
with me. " If we wanted to disseminate our religion," 
his majesty remarked, w we must go to some other 
country." A number of considerations prevented a 
change in my plans, tod looking for wisdom to Him 
in whose hand are the hearts of kings, I went from the 
interpreter's house to the great business on which I 
came forth. In four of the five junks visited, the 
books were well received. Occasionally you meet 
with those who are full of all suspicion, and with 
whom little can be done. 

22d. — Arose early, and went on board of four junks. 
In the first I met with a man who appeared not only 
friendly, but acquainted, at least to some extent, with 
the true God and his redeeming Son. After a little 
conversation, he said he was a Kelesetan, [Christian, 
according to his pronunciation,] belonging to the; 

25* 



2S8 



island of Hainam — that there were three or four Pa- 
dres, and about three thousand native Christians [Pa- 
pists] on the island. It confirms the account that I 
had previously received respecting the Catholics hav- 
ing retained a considerable footing there, when expel- 
led irom China, I gave him the Scriptures, and a 
number of other books, some of which he promised to 
carry to his friends of the same profession at home. 
From his unreserved manner, he could scarcely have 
suspected that there was any difference between me 
and his own priests, although he said, in reply to a 
question on the subject, that they did not distribute 
the Scriptures in the Chinese language. 

Have been again somewhat troubled with the con- 
firmation of yesterday's report. Mr. Silveira having 
business with the acting" Prah Klang, was informed 
that the king had really said the books must not be 
distributed in his kingdom. Mr. S. thinks, and with 
much reason, that the priests are taking the alarm, 
and employing their influence with the king to pre- 
vent their downfall. I think I never enjoyed the se- 
cond psalm so much as to-day* 

June 12th. — Since the last date, I have been em- 
ployed, early and late, in visiting about fifty junks. 
With a very few exceptions, the books have been 
thankfully received, and the instructions and exhorta- 
tions have been heard with attention, I hope with pro- 
fit. Some days the engagement has been delightful. 
Everywhere the most hearty welcome was given, and 

* The king's officers admitted that it did not interfere with his ma- 
jesty's command to supply the Chinese junks with books, though I nei- 
ther promised or intended to confine myself to them^. 



m times the noisy, though respectful salutation of the 
gong has been added. Often has it been cheering to 
witness the readiness with which the most important 
doctrines of Christianity were comprehended, and ani- 
mating has been the assurance that "our labor is not 
in vain in the Lord." Oh, how easy is the conversion 
of a fallen world to the power of Omnipotence. This 
is k our dependence — and here we rest ; and our con- 
stant and only aim should be to have Jehovah make 
bare his arm in this glorious work. 

June 25th. — Attention lately confined to in-door la- 
bors. Among the numerous patients were two most 
pitiable objects. One of them was speechless, and 
unable to walk from paralysis ; but so sensitively alive 
to his miserable condition, that he wept in anguish at 
the probability of never being restored. Even if re- 
lief was within the efficacy of medicine and the skill 
of the practitioner, they have not sufficient patience to 
be healed. Often have they come with inveterate dis- 
eases, and though they have been forewarned of the 
consequences of not repeating their calls, yet from not 
being healed immediately, they have lost their faith ia 
the remedy, and never applied again. 

The most trying circumstance of the past week, and 
one which has called forth many a sigh, is the con- 
duct of the boy, who had been with me for nearly a 
year, and who I hoped had passed from death unto 
life. He had been addicted to intemperance before he 
entered our service, but had appeared for a long time 
perfectly reformed. While with me at Singapore, he 
was associated in the family in which I lived, with a 
profligate fellow servant, whom L have heard him 



290 



&IAMY 



warn against the evil consequences of dissipation, bu : 
who seduced him into the very crimes he had himself 
so solemnly condemned. Before I suspected the least 
misdemeanor, his conduct had become so offensive to 
the public, that I was compelled to dismiss him imme- 
diately from my service. I know of nothing more 
painful to a missionary's heart than an event of this 
kind. Those who have followed to the grave a cher- 
ished child — one who was their solace in loneliness^ 
and their hope in coming years, may form some idea 
of this trial. But no ! what is a bodily pang, a tem- 
porary separation, to spiritual, eternal wretchedness. To 
see the ,: rulers of darkness'' recapture those who we 
hoped had been wrested from their dominion, and to 
find the gioom of the second death closing upon those 
who we fondly believed had emerged into light, pro- 
duce, for the moment, something of the agony which 
belongs to the destiny of the lost. 

July 7th. — Several circumstances have rendered the 
week one of more than ordinary interest. Among 
these, was a visit from two men for books, who had 
obtained some notion of the true God, and the ques- 
tions of one of whom manifested a strong conviction 
of the credibility of the Christian religion. The poor 
man. when inquiring about the manner of divine wor- 
ship, was confounded at every step. To worship with- 
out images, pictures,. inscriptions of any kind, without 
incense sticks, offerings of eatables, or any of those 
rites with which every thing sacred is associated in his 
mind, was more than he could readily digest. Some 
of them exhibit, when you talk to them, the wonder 
of children in hearing, a marvelous tale. The great 



SI AM. 



291 



Deceiver has persuaded them that the right exercise 
of the heart is a secondary, and quite an unimportant 
matter in sacred duties. 

Yesterday the man whom Gutzlaff had baptized 
called for the first time. He had been absent to Co- 
chin-China and China, and had discovered from more 
than mere observation, that notwithstanding the sim- 
ilarity of name, our doctrines and those of the Papists 
were very different. He said they would not acknow- 
ledge him in Amooy, although he confessed himself a 
disciple of Jesus, and showed his credentials, no doubt 
with a very different expectation. That idol which 
they adored, and the strange, unintelligible mode of 
their worship, were quite as offensive to him, as his 
knowledge of the Savior, and ignorance of their abom- 
inations, were to them. 

Have been visited three or four times, by two of 
the interesting Chinese, spoken of in a previous part 
of this journal. They came expressly for divine wor- 
ship, and would repeat their visits more frequently^ 
were it not for the distance of their residence from us, 
This morning they brought an acquaintance with 
them, who had some knowledge of the books, and who 
cheerfully engaged with us in our usual service. Our 
friends had been rather beforehand in their reckon- 
ing, having mistaken this day (Saturday) for the Sab^ 
bath. The elder, with all his other good qualities, is 
the personification of Chinese politeness — the other is 
too modest and retiring to exhibit what his kind heart 
dictates. 

17th. — Passing down the river yesterday evening, 
\ye saw a collection of persons assembled in two or 



292 



SIAM, 



three places, attending to the discourses of the priests. 
At one of the houses where we stopped a few mo- 
ments, an old spectacled Talapoin was seated on a 
platform, preaching to an assembly, principally of wo- 
men, who listened in the reverential posture of Siam — 
sitting with their feet concealed, and iheir hands rais- 
ed to the level of their faces. The dull monotony of 
the old man's chant is usually relieved by a timely in- 
terlude of music, though we did not stop to witness 
this part of the performance. 

The present month is the commencement of the 
Prassah — the longest sacred season in the year, con- 
tinuins* for three successive months. It is observed 
in commemoration of the time that Somnahkodrym* 
the last incarnation of Buddh, disappeared from this 
world. They say that he left three impressions of 
his feet on earth — one in Siam, another in Burmah, 
and a third in Ceylon. Pilgrimages are frequently 
made to the vestige visible in the hill-country of Siam. 
and are considered as meritorious by these idolaters as 
is a visit to the holy city of the Jews, the Ma home- 
dans, or the Catholics, by their respective devotees. 
Paring this protracted season, the priests are kept 
most busily engaged. Every day there is service at 
the place, at the mansions of many of the principal 
men in the kingdom, and frequently at the houses of 
the common people. This service is maintained a,t 
the place throughout the year. The night which 

* According to tradition, the brother of Somnahkodom. a great mal- 
efactor, was crucified for his crimes. I have been asked whether he 
and Jesus were not the same. The devil would no doubt have it be- 
lieved, according to similar attempts, (e. g. the Philippian damsel \ 
that Christ and this infamous character were one. 



St AM. 



203 



tloses the Prassah is a season of many ceremonies 
and much noise. Guns are fired from the forts sur- 
rounding the city, at short intervals, until morning, 
after which, for a long time, lamps are suspended up- 
on high poles, by all who can afford the expense. 
The object of the noise is to frighten the evil spirits 
from these precincts — the lights are to prevent the re- 
turn of these dreaded genii. 

Other means are employed by the priests for the 
same purpose. They often surround a place, from 
which they wish to debar their invisible enemies, with 
a thread, which by their incantatory powers they im- 
agine can render an impassable barrier. The whole 
walled city is thus guarded. Even human bodies are 
believed to be secured from demoniacal possessions by 
the same means. It is strange but true, that similar 
methods are employed by the "priests in taking aliga- 
tors when they appear in the river, and according to 
the uniform testimony of spectators, they prove gene- 
rally successful. In statements of this kind, and ma- 
ny others equally credible, I have been at a loss what 
to believe. If the priests are not assisted by the spi- 
rits whom they profess to control, they must possess 
all their power, or they never could impose upon such 
a variety of witnesses. 

Before we reached home, my ears were shocked by 
oath in English from one of the heathen boys, who 
was assisting to propel the boat. It was the only 
phrase he uttered in the language, and in all proba- 
bility the only one he knew. It reminded me of a 
similar expression which I had heard from one of an- 
other nation, residing in Siam, and who manifested no 



294 



SI AM • 



other acquaintance with the English language thai! 
this offensive sentence. The language of cursing, 
and the habit of brandy drinking, are considered in 
many heathen nations as characteristic of Christians/ 

31st — Yesterday afternoon the prince Chow Fati\ 
sent for me to dine at his house. The message was 
committed in such a manner, or to such a messenger, 
as would admit of no refusal, although it was raining 
at the time and likely to continue. We are often obli- 
ged to gratify them contrary to our inclinations, that 
we may secure their favor, and be better enabled to 
benefit them and their nation. The entertainment 
was in European style, and consisted of a variety of 
dishes. He did not partake with us, it being the cus- 
tom of the princes to eat alone — he offered as an apol- 
ogy, that he had dined. 

After dinner he amused us with music upon some 
of their native instruments, being himself an amateur, 
and aided by the vocal strains of one of his attend- 
ants. Between the musical powers of the Chinese 
and Siamese, as has been mentioned, there is a striking 
contrast, altogether in favor of the talent and taste of 
the latter. The instruments are much more melodi- 
ous, and their voices softer and more natural. They 
usually employ two instruments of percussion^ proba- 
bly borrowed from the Javanese. The one is made 
of transverse pieces of bamboo, suspended by strings 
upon a small shallop frame-work : the other consists 
of a number of hollow copper vessels of different sizes, 

* Bruce in the interior of Abyssinia met a person who had picked 
up a few words of English, and those the vilest in the language, 
t "Lord of Heaven/' 



295 



hung upon a circular frame. Their sweetest wind 
instruments are borrowed from the Laos. They are 
made of a number of reeds of unequal lengths put to- 
gether, and perforated so as to give the necessary dis- 
tinction of notes. On this instrument the prince per- 
forms with much taste. The more we see of this 
young man, the more we are struck with the variety of 
his talents. O that the Savior would verify the pre- 
diction and promise in him, li Kings shall see and 
arise, princes also shall worship." 

September 2d.— Our little worshiping assembly has 
just dispersed. About twenty were present. It is so 
affecting to have a company of poor pagans assemble 
on the Lord's day, to hear the doctrines of the Gospel, 
and bow the knee to their great Author, that I can 
scarcely endure the thought of leaving them, and am 
at times perplexed to know whether even measures 
for self-preservation ought not to yield to the claims 
of a whole kingdom. I must however remember, that 
if the first be necessary, the other must in any case be 
abandoned. The harvest truly is great, but the labor- 
ers are few. 

Two events have recently occurred, which tend to 
promote the objects of the mission. They have been 
constructing a brick foot-path between our premises 
and the Chinese settlement. The way was almost im- 
passable before, even to the bare-footed peripatetics. 
It is now made of materials, and in a manner which 
will probably surmount the hight of the annual flood, 
and resist the action of its waters. Though a misera- 
ble place to walk for exercise, on account of the nar- 
rowness of the way, the crowd of passengers, and 

2a 



296 



what is worse than all, the number and annoyance of 
the dogs, yet it is the only alternative, during the great- 
er part of the year, to remaining within our own little 
inclosure, and it is essential to the prosecution of those 
external duties which ought not to be neglected in 
this mission. Its chief advantage, however, is the 
facility w r ith which visitors, patients and worshipers 
can come to the house. 

The other event is an agreement entered into, with 
Chow Fah, which affords to me advantages for the ac- 
quisition of their language, and opens a door for in- 
structing him. Every second da}', he sends for me 
to come and teach him the English, and the alternate 
day he sends a teacher to instruct me in Siamese. 
Want of health prevents me from availing myself of 
the benefits of the arrangement, except in a limited 
measure, and I am sorry to find, that want of inclina- 
tion or fear debars him from the full advantages of 
that information which I am principally anxious to 
impart. He bids fair for the throne, and is perhaps 
afraid of any thing which might render his success 
doubtful. He hears considerable however in the way 
circumlocution. In fact, I am withheld from the 
plainest, most pointed conversation, only by the appre- 
hension of defeating my own object : and when there 
are sufficient grounds for dismissing this apprehension, 
the effort, in the Lord's strength, shall be made. Still 
I very much fear, that an imperfect knowledge of his 
language renders all my instructions comparatively 
unavailing. 

13th.. — To-day Mr. Hunter sent for us, to witness a 
sight which has attracted much attention in Siam. and 



SIAM. 



29? 



which would be considered equally strange in more 
enlightened countries. It was a young child sporting 
in the water as in its native element, with all the 
buoyancy and playfulness of a fish. Its evolutions 
are astonishing, sometimes rolling over with a rapid 
motion, and apparently no exertion, then turning 
round like a hoop, by bending its face under, as it lies 
on its back, and throwing its feet over its head. It 
floats like a cork, with no apparent motion of any 
of the muscles — occasionally allows itself to sink un- 
til only the half of its head is seen — dives — holds its 
face under water enough to alarm those who are ig- 
norant of its powers, and yet appears to breathe as 
easily as though it had suffered no suspension of respi- 
ration. From its actions and countenance, it is evi- 
dently delighted with the exercise, evinces no fatigue 
nor the least apprehension, and often cries when taken 
up. It is a singular object, both out and in the water. 
It is three years old — very small— can neither speak 
nor walk — is very defective in sight — will take nothing 
but its earliest provision — in fact, appears quite idi- 
otic, and has exhibited the same fondness for the wa- 
ter, and peculiar fetes in it, from its first year of age — 
the first time that it was tried. _ 



24th.— A governor of one of the Malayan districts 
has been charged with oppressing the people, for his 
own aggrandizement. Not satisfied with punishing 
the guilty, they have seized his wife, children, and re- 
latives, and doomed them all " to slavery and chains" 
for life. This case of unrighteous dealing is by no 
nreans singular. The Siamese have lately been en- 
gaged in a war with some of the Malay tribes in the 




298 



SIAM. 



peninsula, and owing to their superiority in numbers 
and equipments, have conquered their enemies, and 
plundered their country. It is said that as many as 
five thousand prisoners — families, as well as fathers — 
have been sent as slaves to Siam. I visited a compa- 
ny of them to-day, and was shocked at their condition. 
Aged and young — -honorable and base were huddled 
together like swine — filthy, diseased, — some extreme- 
ly ill, destitute of nourishment, medicines or attention. 
They were serving out a coarse kind of rice to them 
by a careful and parsimonious measurement, without 
allowing them any condiment to give it a relish, or 
even fuel to cook it. 

25th. — My visits to the prince have been supended 
some time on account of the death of an aunt, who was 
living with him. On these occasions all the servants 
and subjects are obliged to have their heads shaved, 
To-day he took me to see the style in which the body 
is preserved, and witness some of the ceremonies, pre- 
paratory to its being burned. It is partially embalm- 
ed in a sitting posture, with the feet drawn up, and 
the elbows between the knees. The shrine or case in 
which it is preserved is constructed like a pyramid, 
and decked with canopies and other ornaments, The 
priests were present, and had been repeating their 
prayers in a funeral tone of voice. At six in the eve- 
ning twenty-four drums were beat, and trumpets 
blown — to frighten away the evil spirits, as I conjec- 
tured, by way of interrogation — but from mere custom, 
as my quick-sighted informant replied. He admitted, 
however, that they did believe they could drive away 



wil spirits, though guns and not drums were the 
proper instruments. 

Their superstition in regard to these demons is ex- 
treme. He declares they are frequently seen, and 
heard and felt in inflicting deadly diseases upon per- 
sons. They have even the power, as he and the 
whole nation suppose, of introducing into the body 
substances too large, and hard to be digested. " You 
hear a noise generally upon the wall where you are 
sleeping. If you start and inquire the cause, the ob- 
ject is immediately introduced through the mouth ; if 
you lie still and maintain silence, they cannot adminis- 
ter the fatal dose." This art is also ascribed to men, 
who, by their magic, can reduce pieces of leather and 
other substances to an almost imperceptible size, and 
when they are combined with food or medicine and 
swallowed, can make them return to their original 
form. This they declare has been satisfactorily deter- 
mined by post mortem examination. I have heard 
the same from the Chinese, who stand in much dread 
of many of the Siamese, believing that they can en- 
gage malicious spirits on their errands of death, and 
that it is often done to avenge a private animosity, or 
gain other objects. Very recently the brother of the 
Prah Klang, who frequently takes his place in com- 
mercial transactions with foreigners, died. We all 
suspected, from the slightness of the indisposition, and 
the suddenness of the death, that it must have been 
occasioned by ignorance or de-sign in the native doc- 
tors. When the body was burnt, those who were 
present testified, that a large piece of flesh was found 
junconsumed in the fire, which they knew must have 

,26* 



produced his disease. This flesh was taken,- distnbiv 
ted among the relatives, and eaten, under the impres- 
sion that none who have employed this preventive, 
can ever be destroyed by the same means, Among 
other witnesses, a little artless lad, son of the Phra 
Klang, told my friend Hunter of this fact, and exhibit- 
ed strong feelings of disgust when he declared that 
they had made him eat part of the flesh. The priests, 
it is said, by much praying have the control of these 
spirits, or at least are beyond their control, which fur- 
nishes a probable elm to the origin and object of the 
superstition. 

October 2d. — Yesterday and to-day I have been vis- 
iting the Malay captives. The place was the same 
as before, but the company was different, and their 
numbers increased. It is quite sickening to witness 
their misery. Some of them had died : others were 
apparently in the last stage of existence. Multitudes 
were ill, none of whom had comforts adapted to their 
wants, and many of them, especially the children, ex- 
hibited such a painful expression. of countenances as 
quite made the heart to bleed. We supplied some of 
them with mats to keep them from lying on the cold 
ground. I was happy to learn that their measure of 
nice, though of the most inferior quality, had been en- 
larged, and a little dried fish added to their allow- 
ance: but oh, what fare for the emaciated bodies and 
squeamish appetites of the diseased ! 

To-day I took such medicines as I thought might 
be serviceable, but was disappointed to find that the 
greater part of yesterday's company had been removed. 
Ampng^ the. objects of pity was a mother,^ whose child 



had been torn from her, and was about to be sent to a 
distant part of the kingdom. She was almost fran- 
tic, — at times on her knees before those who had the 
management of the business, begging them to restore 
her child — and again running to the boat which they 
were pushing from the shore, and crying out after the 
object of her affections, in the most impassioned man- 
ner. No notice was taken of her, the boat moved off, 
and she was left to the painfulness of probably an eter- 
nal separation. We asked those to whom the poor 
woman appealed for pity, why they did not attend to 
her. They replied,, that they had received orders, and 
were afraid to disobey them. 

October 7th. — To-day our number exceeded twenty 
by one or two. In the evening the priest called and 
returned three volumes of the word of God, which he 
had taken to copy. Not knowing whether I should 
ever have another opportunity for private conversa- 
tion with him, and feeling a strong interest in his 
eternal welfare, I spoke as freely as I could on the im- 
portance of having the heart interested in the truths 
which he had taken some pains to learn. I mention- 
ed that his was the simple knowledge of the head, 
which could be of no avail toward his. salvation, as 
long as the affectio&s were unmoved, and his idolatry 
retained. By a word or two and a very significant 
gesture, he made me to understand that the fear of de- 
capitation was the great preventive to a change of his 
faith. I told him what the Savior commanded his dis- 
ciples, about not fearing those who could kill only the 
body, and. that thousands for the love of Jesus and 



302 



eternal life had been transported on fiery chariots to 
heaven. 

His case reminds one of the priests in the Savior's 
day. who, it is said, believed : but did not confess him 
openly, for the same reason. I think there is but lit- 
tle doubt, but that if a change of circumstances should 
dissipate these fears, he would be among the first in 
the kingdom to embrace Christianity. Alas, that 
such a change of circumstances should be at all ne- 
cessary ! 

October 14th. — Since the commencement of our 
Sabbath service. I have never seen such fixed and 
thoughtful attention as was apparent toward the close 
of this morning's exhortation, The Spirit of the living 
Savior was doubtless in our midst, and the hearts of 
many. I sincerely believe, felt his sacred presence. 
Again the sadness of separation came over my spirits, 
and again I commended this little band to " the Shep- 
herd and Bishop of souls.' 5 The more we labor for 
the heathen, the more we see the necessity of laboring 
with our own hearts, It is difficult to say which is 
the most painful, to toil with no encouragement, or to 
leave unaccomplished the most encouraging labors. 
If there were others to take the place of those who are 
compelled to retire : or if the flock from whom their 
pastor is removed had attained to strength; the trial is 
comparatively light. To labor with patience and per- 
severance, expectation and prayer, is not sufficient at 
least for the comfort of the instrument; he must learn 
to have his spirit so attuned, that the animating strain 
'• I can do all things through Christ, which strength- 



SIAM. 303 

eneth me/' may allow of the interlude, "not my will, but 
thine be done." 

During- the past week I have supplied the Burman 
camp with tracts brought with me, in their own lan- 
guage. The books were well received by priests and 
people. 

24th. — Have been informed upon good authority 
that the Roman Catholics in China a.re reinforced this 
year, by a bishop and four missionaries ; and in Siarii 
by one missionary. The viceroy of Saigon, in Co- 
chin-China, who was very favorable to that religion, 
and a man of vast power in the kingdom, has lately 
died, which has produced such apprehensions among 
the priests in regard to their safety, that they have 
begged the bishop of Siam to offer public prayers for 
their preservation/ The same authority states that 
the number of Christians in Corea is about ten thou- 
sand. They have no European priests, but are sup- 
plied by natives from China. A bishop and several 
missionaries are soon to be appointed. 

The most prevalent languages employed by the na- 
tives and foreign residents at Siam, are the Siamese 
and Chinese. The spoken language of the Siamese 
is simple and nervous. Like the Chinese, there is a 
great deal of tone in their ordinary pronunciation, but 
unlike many dialects of that language, the sense is 
not determined by accent. These modulations of 
voice are heard more distinctly in reading, when you 
perceive there are three keys, a number of notes apart, 
through which they pass by rules, which I believe cus- 



* They have since suffered severe persecution. 



304 



SIAM. 



torn alone regulates, though it teaches them with uiv 
erring precision. In their books, they are exceedingly 
fond of epithets, turgid phrases, and a certain corres- 
pondence of sound in words and members of sen- 
tences. The object of language is often entirely for- 
gotten. Instead of being regarded as the vehicle of 
thought, they appear to consider it as superior to all 
sentiment, often multiplying expressions without the 
least additional force or variation to the ideas. The 
majority of their books contain little else, than this 
pompous display of verbiage. A number of works 
have been written in the language. Some of them 
treat of anatomy, medicine, law and other sciences ; 
but a large proportion are novels and fables, as full of 
absurdities, and puerilities, as the former are desti- 
tute of truth and utility. There is scarcely any dif- 
ference in the mode of speaking the language through- 
out the kingdom. — the tones vary a little, but so little 
that all understand each other with perfect facility. 
The Bali or Pali is the sacred tongue of Budha, and 
studied by the priests. Many Pali words have been 
introduced into their writings. The court language 
is principally Cambodjian. The first legislator was 
from Cambodjia, and though he lived nearly twelve 
centuries ago, the language remains unchanged. The 
common era of Siam is the commencement of his po- 
litical career. 

The language of Cambodjia is very different from 
the Siamese. The Cambodjians employ the Pali cha- 
racter in their moral writings, but have another for 
ordinary subjects. The Laos appears more a dialect 
of the Chinese than a distinct tongue, though the cha- 



SIAM. 



305 



racters employed by the two nations are somewhat 
different. Between the Burmese and Siamese there 
is scarcely any resemblance. 

The most common colloquial dialect of the Chinese 
in Siam is the Tay-chew or Teo-chew. It resembles 
the Fokien more than any other dialect, but still dif- 
fers so much from it, both in phrases and accent, that 
without accommodation on one or both sides, there 
can be but little intercourse between the natives of the 
two places. There is not the same fullness and dis- 
tinctness of sound in the Tay-chew dialect as in the 
other. The consequence is, it is more difficult to ac- 
quire, and especially to employ intelligibly to the na- 
tives. This may be owing, however, to the great 
want of uniformity among themselves, as also to the 
fact that they are poorer and less cultivated than the 
inhabitants of Fokien, and consequently if you do not 
happen to strike the very term and tone which they 
employ, they have no means of gathering your idea. 

There is nothing in a missionary's labor which tries 
his patience and power of application so much as these 
difficult and different languages. No effort of genius 
can overcome the obstacles with which he continual- 
ly meets. It is true there is a talent for languages, 
which gives immense advantages to those who pos- 
sess it, but the acquisition of the Chinese depends up- 
on a close imitation of writings, which can scarcely 
be said to be governed by any principles, and in which 
the idiom is totally opposite to any thing known or 
employed among western nations. First, a know- 
ledge of the true character must be acquired, and then 
you must pore over the books in which these nume- 



306 



SIAM. 



rous characters are employed, until you perceive how 
they are combined to convey different ideas. The 
man who has the most extensive acquaintance with 
their classical and historical works, who can servilely 
imitate their style, and liberally quote their senti- 
ments, is the literary man in China, and of course the 
one best calculated to influence and control the mind 
of the empire. It is the untiring exertion required in 
mastering these difficulties, connected with the effects 
of a climate unfavorable to close mental application, 
which has injured the health of the majority who have 
devoted themselves to this mission. This fact how- 
ever, should not discourage any who feel it their duty 
to consecrate their lives to the salvation of these na- 
tions. The chief difficulties belong rather to the lite- 
rature of the language, than to a sufficient knowledge 
of it, for useful purposes. The colloquial dialects, 
though they all require attention, may yet be obtained 
without injury to the health, and without that appli- 
cation of mind which is necessary for literary pur- 
poses. To live with them, or to have them live 
with you — to talk, though you blunder — to question, 
though you cannot understand the answer— to repeat 
or even write down what you hear and inquire where 
you are ignorant — to dismiss all pride, all diffidence, 
and to lay every man and every thing under contri- 
bution to your object, is the best way to study lan- 
guages, and a way which confines no one to his desk. 
It is an important rule never to be ashamed of your 
ignorance, nor backward to ask about even what 
you ought to know. And no plan have I found so 
profitable as employing the pencil in catching words 



sot 



and sentences from the lips of those who are talking^ 
and then, if you think it too impolite to make the man 
his own interpreter on the spot, to defer the inquiry 
for a future period. I have known one or two ladies 
whose health was delicate, and yet who had made 
themselves such proficients in the Chinese, that they 
could converse on all subjects, and read and explain 
the Christian books with facility.* Still no other lan- 
guage in the East, probably no other in the world, 
presents such difficulties to its complete acquisition as 
the Chinese. The Siamese, especially the spoken lan- 
guage, is by no means appalling. The Malayan, 
employed in the Straits and throughout the islands, is 
simplicity itself. It is doubtful whether there is an- 
other language in the world which can be so quickly 
understood, and employed by foreigners of all nations. 

November 4th. — Expecting to leave the place be- 
fore this day, I had made arrangements for those who 
were disposed to continue the Sabbath services, to 
meet in future in the same place and at the same hour. 
All whom I had any reason to expect, came, and these 
brought others with them, so that the number was as 
great as usual. Having in the presence of all, men- 
tioned the person by whom I desired the exercises to 
be principally conducted, I resigned the office to him, 
and sat as a listener. The audience were very silent 
and attentive, and the expounder animated and happy 
in his views and illustrations. It was very evident to 
me, that, exclusive of the obligations which would 
probably bind a greater number to me than to the sub- 

* Being familiar with the subjects, these books are more easily com- 
prehended by us than their own. 

27 



308 



SIAM< 



stitute, or to their own best interests, the change is in 
many most important respects desirable. In power of 
language he has greatly the advantage, at least in his 
own dialect, which is more familiar to others, and 
less to myself than the Fokien. His knowledge is 
quite extensive — the result evidently of much reading, 
and I hope of spiritual illumination. Besides, he 
knows their modes of thinking and reasoning on moral 
subjects, and the objections they entertain against 
Christianity^ which have been often urged against his 
faith, but which they are more backward to express in 
my presence. 

Before leaving Siam, it was my intention to have vis- 
ited other parts of the kingdom. Juthia. the ancient 
capital, and Chantibun, situated on the coast towards 
Cochin-China, are places containing a large popula- 
tion, and presenting many facilities for missionary 
labor. I have frequently conversed with those who 
were acquainted with these parts of the country, and 
from all that I could gather, they appeared to be in- 
viting and important spheres of Christian exertion. 
At Juthia. probably at Chantibun, the Roman Catho- 
lics have missionaries. It might be a little difficult at 
first to get access to these places, as the Siamese pos- 
sess the jealousy and timidity of some of their neigh- 
bors ; but time would no doubt soon remove their sus- 
picions, and open the way to every part of the king- 
dom. 

Since the writer left Siam, other missionaries have 
entered the field. Mr. and Mrs. Jones, of the American 
Baptist Church, arrived early the following year. In 
a communication made to the society to which he be- 



SIAM. 



309 



longs, Mr. J. states, under date of September 22d, 1833, 
that the little congregation — of which frequent men- 
tion has been made in this volume — continue to wor- 
ship in the place appointed them, and that twenty 
were present on the preceding Sabbath. In another 
letter written in December of the same year, he says 
" our little assembly of Chinese still continues, con- 
ducted by Bunty as usual. We have had for some 
months as good evidence as I could expect, that two 
or three of his associates were true converts : but 
owing to my ignorance of their language, and their 
slight acquainance with Siamese, I had hitherto de- 
clined their repeated solicitations for baptism. At 
length circumstances were such that I did not feel at 
liberty to decline any longer, and on Sabbath morning 
the 8th inst., I administered the rite to Chek Bunty, 
Chek Peng and Check Leang-Seah." Chek is a fa- 
miliar appellative among the Chinese ; signifying 
uncle. 

Still more recently, the Rev. Messrs. Johnson and 
Robinson, and Dr. Bradley, of the American Board, 
have joined the mission. In a letter dated April 20th, 
1835, Mr. Robinson writes that " the prejudices of the 
people are gradually giving way, since they see we 
have come to dwell among them, with our wives and 
children." "The little company of Chinese continue 
to meet on the Sabbath, under the care of brother 
Jones; another has been baptized since our arrival, 
We have established a Chinese school, with from ten to 
fifteen scholars, in which none but Christian books are 
taught. We hope soon to institute others, both for 
Chinese and Siamese," 



CHAPTER XIIT, 



PASSAGE FROM SIAM. 

On Monday morning, November 5th, Mr. Hunter 
called for me in a barge, and took me to the schooner 
in which I was going* to Singapore, and which was 
lying outside of the bar. The schooner was chartered 
by him, and through his influence and. the kindness 
of captain Norris, I was again laid under obliga- 
tions for a passage without its expense. The vessel 
was less than a hundred tons in measurement, and 
four of us were obliged to stoiv away in a very small 
cabin. Nothing peculiar occurred on the passage, ex- 
cept that we came near getting on a lee shore, through 
the inattention of the helmsman. Supposing that we 
were running in a line with the peninsula, we descried 
land immediately before us, and were obliged to beat 
some time against a head sea, before we felt it safe to 
bear away. Had the wind been powerful, and the sea 
high, or had we not enjoyed the advantages of day- 
light, the result would have probably been disastrous. 

November 23d. — Visited a Borneo proa, in compa- 
ny with Mr. Thomsen, to obtain information respect- 
ing that island, and to distribute books. The princi- 

27* 



m2. 



RHW. 



pal man with whom we conversed, proved himself in- 
telligent, and communicative. He belonged to Ben- 
jar-Massin, about which place and the other Dutch 
settlements, Sambas and Po$tiana, he manifested 
much knowledge. He represents the Dyaks residing 
near the settlements, and in the interior, as exceeding- 
ly numerous. Formerly they were all very ferocious ; 
but the character of many of them has been in a mea- 
sure meliorated by intercourse with foreigners, and 
perhaps by some little sense of fear, as well as of 
profit resulting from this connection. This applies 
principally, if not exclusively, to those who reside 
near the station. He speaks of thousands of Chinese 
in the vicinity of the mines, which abound in the in- 
terior, — a fact fully confirmed by Europeans who have 
visited these places. 

On Wednesday, November 28th, Mr. Thomsen and 
myself left Singapore for Rhio, in the ship Dedierika, 
captain Tovvnsend, who went out of his way to ac- 
commodate us, and would receive nothing for our pas- 
sage. Owing to calms, we were nearly three days in 
accomplishing what we expected to perform in four- 
and-twenty hours. Our object was to visit Mr. Went- 
ing, the Dutch missionary, and distribute books among 
the Malays and Chinese. We found a few thousand 
©f each class residing in Rhio and its neighborhood. 

Mr. W. occupies a small island by himself, which, 
with others in the vicinity, was formerly infested by 
pirates. It was given by the Dutch authorities to the 
Netherlands' Society, on the condition that their mis- 
sionaries should make it their abode. The house is 
situated on. its highest eminence, commanding an em- 



RH10. 



313 



chanting prospect and exposed to every cooling breeze. 
The islet contains about one or two hundred acres of 
land. Beside the variety of its own surface, checker- 
ed with lofty trees and native dwellings,. — the touches 
of culture, and the wildness of the jungle, — you be- 
hold stretching beyond it, an expanse of water, bound- 
ed on the whole horizontal -range, with the exception 
of one opening, by numerous islands,— here retiring 
behind each other so as to disclose merely their prom- 
ontories, — and there stretching in bold continuity to 
an immense extent, — in some places so near that al- 
most every object may be defined, and in others so 
distant that you can discern nothing but their azure 
outline. About eight miles from you appears the 
small town of Rhio, with its few European buildings, 
and its hill-crowned fort, — on one side of which is a 
Chinese settlement, on the other a Malay eampong^ 
and in front, the harbor with ships and native proas. 
The only part of the horizon not bounded by hills, is 
the usual passage through which vessels enter and 
leave the harbor of Rhio, and pass and repass from 
Batavia, Singapore, and other places among these 
islands. 

On the island there are about thirty Malays, whom 
Mr. Wenting teaches in a little airy chapel, built on 
another hill. We spent our time principally at Rhio, 
and were very hospitably entertained by one of the 
Dutch officers attached to the military. From the hill 
at Rhio, where the Europeans reside, the prospect is 
nearly equal to the one described. Among the pe- 
culiarities of the vegetable kingdom, we found the sen- 
sitive plant, mimosa, running wild upon the hills. A 



314 



SINGAPORE. 



sweep of the hand or foot among its luxuriant tendrils, 
scattered apparent death around.— but a few moments 
showed it to be mere appearance, for life and beauty 
were soon restored. We returned to Singapore in one 
of the small government vessels, manned with natives, 
and fitted up to guard the sea from pirates. 

January 18th. 1S33. — Yesterday, at half-past nine 
in the morning, I had the mournful satisfaction of 
witnessing the departure of my beloved Christian 
brother, the Rev. Robert Burn, chaplain of Singapore. 
I feel thankful for the privilege of attending his sick 
bed for about a month and a half, and for receiving 
and endeavoring to communicate such lessons, as fit 
the dying to depart in peace, and the surviving to live 
with profit. 

Mr. Burn was an ornament to the ministry. In 
him were united some of the rarest qualities of intel- 
lect and heart. In the private circle and in the pul- 
pit, he often manifested such efforts of genius and 
judgment as are seldom combined. His views of di- 
vine truth were uncommonly expansive and consist- 
ent; and what gave them a double charm and impres- 
siveness. was the tenderness and humility of spirit 
which they had produced in himself. His judgment 
was too unbiased, and his experience too comprehen- 
sive to consider important those trifling points which 
divide into parties the Christian church. He had his 
peculiar views and predilections, but in his intercourse 
with those of other sects, they were never obtruded, 
and in his ordinary conversation they were seldom 
mentioned. Wherever he saw the image of Jesus, he 
acknowledged a brother.. Missionaries of every name 



SINGAPORE. 



315 



and from every country were welcomed to his house, 
and while he gladly co-operated with them in their 
missionary labors, he availed himself of all their aid 
in his own sphere of duty. " Such Christian mag- 
nanimity how rare/' and yet how conducive to the in- 
terests of all parties. — the salvation of a world, — the 
glory of an undivided Savior. 

But there was another peculiarity in this beloved 
brother, which not only won the hearts of all who 
knew him, but perhaps more than anything else im- 
proved those other traits of character in which he ex- 
celled. He was not simply an Apollos in the Scrip- 
tures, but an Israel in prayer. Before I had the plea- 
sure of his acquaintance, he was described to me as 
one who appeared ready under all circumstances to 
" fall upon his knees before God f and the first time 
and the last, and every time I heard him give utter- 
ance to the sanctified impressions and desires of his 
own heart, exceeded every expectation I had formed, 
Such a fervor and confidence of spirit, — such power in 
employing the arguments which a covenant God has 
furnished, and which He cannot resist, — such a ten- 
der concern for ail his friends, his scattered brethren in 
Christ, and his perishing fellow-sinners in every place, 
I believe is rarely exhibited, — scarcely ever surpassed. 
The admiration of all who ever heard him pray, is 
uniform. God grant that many such spiritual wrest- 
lers may adorn and bless the church. 

In his own estimation he was below all things, — 
none so unqualified for his office, so unfaithful in the 
discharge of its responsible duties. He could weep 
<md tremble when this was the theme, and wish that 



316 



SINGAPORE. 



he might escape from the station he so miserably fill- 
ed, and shrink away into his beloved retirement. — an 
unknown obscurity. This was well, as far as it re- 
spects its influence on his own spirit ; but it evident- 
. ly interfered with his usefulness. That which he 
most deplored upon his bed of death, was the singular 
aversion, which he had felt from his infancy, to min- 
gling with society, or being made at all conspicuous. 
I never knew such diffidence connected with such ca- 
pabilities of intellect. He was almost paralyzed at 
confronting those with whom he was not intimate, and 
in a degree proportioned to the part he was expected 
to sustain in their presence. This characteristic, 
though perfectly natural, proved a detriment to his 
extensive usefulness. 

It was our earnest desire, and not without some 
grounds of expectation, that this sickness might not be 
unto death, but for the glory of God, in the eminent 
devotion of his servant's future course. A large ma- 
jority with the same complaint and under the same 
treatment had recovered ; and it was not until he had 
sunk under an irrecoverable collapse, that the thought 
of dying was admitted with any seriousness to our 
minds. We were much together, both waiting for the 
first favorable opportunity to embark for England. 
The evening of the sudden change which decided in 
our minds his earthly destiny, I was with him until a 
late hour. We engaged in devotion, as usual, and 
separated for the night, without the least expectation 
of his hastening departure. The next morning the 
news came that he had passed a night of extreme i 11— 
ness ? and would probably not survive the day. Ago- 



SINGAPORE. 



317 



mzed with the unlooked for change, I hastened to his 
bed-side, but though he recognized me, and expressed 
his full knowledge of his approaching end, his mind 
soon lost its balance. At first he was agitated. It 
was a midnight summons, and we were all slumber- 
ing ; but when he trimmed his lamp, and found his 
vessel replenished, — nay, when he looked up and be- 
held the Bridegroom, he recovered from the shock, and 
became composed. From this change, which prece- 
ded his departure about three days, he was generally 
in a state of delirium, and continued unconscious of 
his situation, until his spirit was released from its pri- 
son, and admitted into u the joy of his Lord.*' 

Eternity probably never appeared so much of a real- 
ity, a present reality, — never did. the glories of heaven 
so powerfully possess the minds of the few who stood 
around this departing brother, as at the moment when 
we believed he awoke from utter unconsciousness, to 
the enjoyment of his Savior's perfect likeness and frui- 
tion. O how solemn was the place. We felt that the 
King of saints and his ministering angels were with 
us. — and as we committed the spirit in silence to the 
favor of its covenant God, a thrill of rapture chased 
away the anguish with which we had been oppressed. 
One of our number was the bereaved companion 
whom he held most dear in life, and whose delicate 
frame and sensitive heart were wonderfully sustained 
in this hour of overpowering sadness, and overpower- 
ing joy. Another was a friend* who had ministered 
most kindly to his wants, and from beneath whose 
hospitable roof he took his heaven-ward flight. God 



* T. Oxley, Esq., surgeon of the station. 



318 



SINGAPORE. 



grant that we may all live under the impressions of 
that hour, — then shall we not live in vain. 

Mr. Burn was the son of major general Andrew 
Burn, whose interesting memoirs are before the Chris- 
tian public. Beside his afflicted widow, he has left 
a brother in the ministry and six sisters to mourn 
their loss, though they can all rejoice in his gain. 
Like Henry Marty n, his chief inducement in accept- 
ing a chaplaincy to the East, was the desire of useful- 
ness among the heathen. He had a considerable ac- 
quaintance with two of the languages of the country, 
and wrote several Christian works in one of them. 
May his example stimulate many, who occupy similar 
stations in India, and beyond the Ganges, and whose 
influence and exertions are much needed for the con- 
version of the heathen nations.* 

May 20th. — During the illness of Mr. Burn, and af- 
ter his decease, my health was sufficiently strong to 
admit of my occupying his place in the duties of the 
chaplaincy. Such was the beneficial influence of the 
change upon my constitution, and such the effect of 
the preached word, that I concluded on deferring my 
return to America until I should see whether it was ab- 
solutely necessary to leave these scenes of labor, and 
diminish still more the small number of missionaries 
in the field. The trial of parting with friends and 
country is great, but the necessity of leaving the hea- 

* " The inhabitants of Malacca (writes a friend of Mr. Burn) must 
long remember him with affection. Whenever his ministerial duties 
called him to that station, he never failed to address them publicly 
once or twice a week. He was also a liberal supporter of the schools. 
From the time they were first established, until the Lord was pleased 
to take him to his rest, he annually set apart sixty or seventy pounds 
(three hundred dollars) for their support." — Editor of London edition. 



SINGAPORE. 319 

then world, where millions are perishing without in- 
struction, especially if you have become at all qualified 
for usefulness, is much more painful to him whose 
heart is fully interested in his work. 

In the discharge of the duties of the chaplaincy, the 
study of languages and some external labors among 
the Chinese, my time was occupied for four or five 
months. I attempted to supply every Chinese family 
in the place with Christian books ; but while engaged 
in the task, my health again yielded to the influence of 
the climate, and I was obliged to leave the work one- 
half, perhaps two-thirds unaccomplished. A change 
of air and scene within the tropics may prove useful 
to an invalid, but it rarely restores a debilitated con- 
stitution, and generally loses all its influence after a 
season. 

During my residence at Singapore, I became ac- 
quainted with nearly all the European families in the 
place, and received from many of them the most polite 
and kind attentions. Especially was I laid under ob- 
ligations to Mr. and Mrs. Thomsen, of the mission 
family, and Messrs. Oxley and Diggles, under whose 
hospitable roof I spent the greater part of my time. I 
was not only the guest but the patient of the former 
gentleman, and received at his hands the most grateful 
services.* 

* Many changes have occurred at Singapore since the writer first 
visited the place. The death of Mr. Burn, — the marriage of Miss 
Martyn, on account of which the Chinese schools have suffered an ir- 
reparable loss, at least for some time to come ; and very recently the 
removal of Mr. and Mrs. Thomsen, — the only missionaries in the sta- 
tion, on account of ill health. The chaplaincy has been supplied by 
Mr. Darrah, who, with the assistance of Mr. Thomas Scott, a young 
gentleman engaged in commerce, has resumed some of the schools. 

28 



320 



SINGAPORE* 



Saturday evening. May 25th, 1833. — Embarked in 
the Cambridge, captain Barber, for England. The 
want of multiplied comforts and medical attendance, 
only to be enjoyed in large passenger ships, and quite 
indispensable in my precarious state of health, deter- 
mined my choice, or rather precluded all choice in the 
selection of a vessel. A few days after leaving Singa- 
pore, we made the coast of Borneo, and kept that island 
in sight nearly a week. 

I am happy to find that the American Board of Foreign Missions have 
recently occupied this field, and intend making Singapore their prin- 
cipal station in these countries. The printing apparatus, having fonts 
in two or three languages, has been purchased, and several missiona- 
ries sent forth. The Board have fixed upon Singapore for the estab- 
lishment of an institution where the different languages of the East 
will be taught, and where missionaries maybe prepared for any sphere 
in the surrounding kingdoms and islands. 



CHAPTER XIV. 



ISLANDS OF THE ARCHIPELAGO — BORNEO. 

With a single exception, Borneo is the largest isl> 
and in the world. It is more extensive than any 
kingdom of Europe, and although a wilderness, and a 
vast haunt of savage beasts and men ; it possesses ca- 
pabilities of culture and decoration, traffic, health, and 
wealth, which is scarcely surpassed by any locality in 
eastern Asia. The island is described by one* who 
traveled six hundred miles in the interior, and visit- 
ed Bagottan, Passier, and Coti, as " equal in climate, 
and superior in productions to any part of Asia he had 
seen or heard of. ;? This gentleman had himself visit* 
ed many of the best parts of India, and was, on this 
account, the more capable of estimating its relative 
value. 

The coast throughout its whole circumference is in 
the possession of foreign settlers, who have establish- 

* J. Dalton, Esq., from whose interesting journal these remarks are 
principally taken, and whose extensive observations have generally 
confirmed the reports of other writers, At Singapore, where Mr. D. 
lived and died, and where his journal was published, his authority is 
plied on. In some other places, where neither the man nor the "sub- 
jects upon which he treats are at all known, it has been questioned. 



322 



BORNEO. 



ed themselves here at successive periods, and who 
claim the right of possession, as a privilege vested in 
their commercial and physical importance. Bugis. 
Malays. Chinese, and Cambodjians. have each retain- 
ed a footing. The Dutch are the only European 
power who have preserved their settlements. The 
whole of the interior, from within a few miles of the 
extreme points of Salatin on the north to Sooloo on the 
south, from near Pontiana on the west, to Coti on the 
east, is in the possession of the Dyaks — the aborigines 
of the island.* From intercourse with more civilized 
strangers, the natives who live in the vicinity of the 
coasts differ materially in their spirit and habits from 
their brethren in the interior. They are represented 
as tractable and mild in disposition, though so stupid 
or pusillanimous as to submit to every indignity with- 
out resistance. They are subject to Moslem chiefs. 
who have established themselves on the banks of the 
rivers, and who of course do all they can to extend 
their authority:. The mass of the natives under these 
sultans, remain unconverted to the Mahomedan faith, 
The population of the interior is cut up into innumera- 
ble tribes, who either associate for the sake of mutual 
protection and pillage, or maintain a separate indepen- 
dency. The smaller rivers are generally in the pos- 
session of a distinct tribe ; the larger ones, whose 
banks are sufficiently extensive, accommodate a num- 
ber of them. They are described as bearing a gene- 
ral resemblance to each other, and being very unlike 
all their neighbors. For symmetry of form, strength 



* It is said there are other savages in Borneo distinguished by other 
names than Dyak. though much Tike them in appearance and habits. 



BORNEO. 



323 



and agility of muscle, and the most unyielding cour- 
age and endurance, the aboriginese of Borneo claim a 
high distinction among their fellow men. The friend- 
ly disposition expressed by some of their most power- 
ful tribes towards Europeans, presents an opening to 
foreign intercourse and influence ; while their active, 
sturdy habits, so different from their Malayan neigh- 
bors, furnish a most promising field of culture to the 
philanthropist and Christian. But alas, while this 
moral scene glows with beauty in the distant perspec- 
tive, the foreground is filled up with every wreck and 
ruin of humanity. Regarding the Dyaks in their 
present estate, it would be difficult — impossible to find 
their equals in all that disgraces and degrades human 
nature. Others are far below them in mental and 
bodily enervation, but we read of none so debased in 
the scale of depravity. In unprovoked, unrestrained 
barbarity, they exceed the American Indian, the Cha- 
rib, or the New Zealander. How much they need the 
blessings of Christianity, may be gathered from their 
present mode of life. War is their business, murder 
their pastime, and the trophies of cruelty their proud- 
est distinction. Nothing is too high for their daring ; 
nothing too low for their despicable cruelty. All who 
belong not to their confederacy are reputed enemies, 
whose heads they endeavor to secure at any hazard 
and by any means. The unfair and savage manner 
in which they prosecute their warlike expeditions, or 
rather their expeditions in search of human heads, is ab- 
horrent beyond all parallel. Insulated huts — defense- 
less campongs — unwary fishermen — wretched strag- 
glers — old and young of either sex, are alike their 

2S* 



324 



BORNEO. 



prey. The men and elder women are inevitably 
murdered — the young women and children they con- 
vert into their slaves. In an expedition of Selgie, 
one of the most powerful chiefs, which consumed three 
months, they took seven hundred heads. Such is the 
importance attached to a warrior who possesses many 
heads, that he takes his place in the presence of the 
rajah with the air of exalted worth ; while those who 
are destitute of these distinguishing trophies are glad 
to creep into any corner to escape notice. 

Human heads are made to grace the occurrence of 
every important event. They are employed to celebrate 
a Dyak's birth, and consecrate his marriage: to miti- 
gate his diseases, and appease his spirit after death. 
Marriage is always referred to the rajah, who calls 
before him the young man and the father of the girl. 
If the latter can produce ten heads, the former must 
show half the number, in the expectation that when his 
age equals the other, the emblems of their bravery 
will be alike. If the young man is unable to produce 
the requisite number, he obtains a few friends, and 
sallies forth in search of the deficiency, well aware if 
he do not succeed, his lasting disgrace shall be the 
consequence. Every head is submitted to a close ex- 
amination, and none but those of recent victims are 
admissible. A part of the ceremony consists in both 
parties' taking a head in each hand and dancing 
around each other, with the most extravagant gestures, 
amidst the applauses of the rajah and people. Upon 
the death of the chief, the mound in which the body 
is deposited must be studded with fresh heads, as the 
most, acceptable offering to the deceased. No warrior 



BORNEO, 



32S 



can presume to make a visit of condolence to the fam- 
ily, without bringing at least one head for the occa- 
sion. During the first year or two. these heads are 
occasionally changed. All kinds of sickness are sup- 
posed to be under the influence of malignant spirits, 
whom nothing can so well propitiate as human heads. 

What mournful ravages must a custom so preva- 
lent and desolating spread throughout this vast island ! 
What numbers of victims are annually required, for 
such numberless purposes ! What can prevent a to- 
tal and speedy extermination of all these ignorant, ill- 
fated tribes, if Christian charity slumber much longer 
over their appeals for mercy? In their amusements, 
and sometimes even in their domestic economy, the 
same reckless disregard for human life is evinced. 
They are extravagantly fond of cock-fighting, and 
stake almost every thing they can command upon the 
game. If the sum be lost and not paid within twen- 
ty-four hours, the winner has a legal right to dis- 
patch his debtor, and he generally does it. Upon an 
expedition, if the rajah's appetite craves any thing 
fresh, and an inferior animal is not at hand, one of his 
train is butchered, and served up as a substitute. 
When the men of wealth bury their treasure, which is 
a common custom, they uniformly destroy the slaves 
who assisted them, that the secret of the depository 
might be confined to themselves. 

It is difficult to determine what ideas upon religion 
the Dyaks entertain. They have no apparent dread 
of dying. The great and only fear is the loss of their 
heads, and this they deprecate more than the majority 
in Christian lands do the loss of their souls. Yet 



326 



BORNEO, 



there are some glimmerings of a future state m their 
darkened minds, as appears from their burial rites, 
which are grounded upon a belief in the continued 
existence of the spirit. That they have no ideas of a 
retribution for their present actions, appears very evi- 
dent from their brutal conduct, unless they reverse all 
natural sentiments of right and wrong, or believe that 
the awards of eternity are to be equally reversed. 
Islamism, which has planted itself upon their coasts, 
and succeeded in captivating the Bugis, Malays, and 
neighboring tribes, has not been able to bow these 
sturdy spirits to its yoke. 

It is said by some of the older writers, that their 
language contains many words common to the Malay 
and the Sanscrit. Thy appear to have no written 
characters, as Mr. D. met but three men who could 
write, and they had been taught the Bugis language, 
and were regarded as prodigies. Towards the center, 
and inclining to the north, the natives are described 
as still less tractable — roving about the woods, naked 
and wild — neither dwelling in huts, nor cultivating 
the ground, nor even associating with each other. 
These miserable creatures are hunted by the more 
civilized Dyaks as an amusement. Their infant chil- 
dren, whom the mothers cradle upon the pendant 
branches of trees, are shot like monkeys. The cap- 
tured men are of course beheaded, and the women 
spared only when young. The children are taken 
home and made their drudges. To prevent their es- 
cape, which their masters declare is invariable, if in- 
trusted with their liberty, they cut off a foot, and stick 
the stump in a bamboo of molten damar. This pre- 



BORNEO. 



327 



vents their running, and secures their services in pad- 
dling their boats. The north and north-west coast 
has seldom, if ever, been visited by Europeans. The 
Bugis and other traders affirm that it is by far the 
richest part of the island, containing a dense popula- 
tion, who carry on an extensive traffic with Cambod- 
jia and the neighboring islands. The Carnbodjia lan- 
guage is as much employed as any other. Near Pon- 
tiana are a large number of Chinese, who work the 
mines, and who are accessible to the Christian mis- 
sionary. Mr. Med hurst visited them a few years since, 
and published an interesting account of his tour. 

Borneo, as a missionary field might be immediately oc- 
cupied. Our ignorance prevents us from stating very 
definitely its advantages for Christian enterprise. No 
doubt serious obstacles will oppose the work, and 
much self-denial and perseverance will be necessary 
in its prosecution ; still there are stations where mis- 
sionaries would be protected, and whence encroach- 
ments might be gradually made upon the interior, un- 
til the length and breadth of this extensive land was 
possessed. The Romish propaganda have been ad- 
dressed upon the subject by a child of that church, 
who formerly resided upon the island ; but his Holi- 
ness, contrary to his usual vigilance and promptness 
of action, has thus far neglected the opportunity. The 
writer met the present resident of Pontiana at Bata via. 
He says the natives near the foreign settlement are 
heartily sick of Mahomedan tyranny, and would glad- 
ly exchange their faith to be released from their mas- 
ters. The number of Dyaks in the vicinity of this 
station is supposed to amount to two or three turn- 



323 



BORNEO. 



dred thousand, besides twenty or thirty thousand 
Chinese, and a number of Malays. He appeared de- 
sirous that missionaries should be sent, and would no 
doubt assist in their establishment. Here then, the 
first mission might be planted. Sambas, and Banjar- 
massin, also in the possession of the Dutch, will pro- 
bably be found equally accessible and inviting. 

From Mr. Dalton's account, the natives of the in- 
terior are very desirous of cultivating an intercourse 
with Europeans. Selgie. the most powerful chief in 
the south-east division of the island, said that he would 
even desist from the custom of Gutting off heads, and 
submit to Europeans in any thing, if he could enjoy 
the advantages of their trade. Mr. D. thinks a traffic 
with these people would be both practicable and pro- 
fitable. The rich productions of their country might 
be received for the superabundant articles of Europe- 
an growth and manufacture. Though their object 
in wishing to form an acquaintance with foreigners, 
is purely, secular advantage, yet it proves that they 
are far from being averse to Europeans, or wishing to 
keep aloof from them. And if an honorable trade is 
to be a means of introducing the Gospel, the time is 
no doubt approaching, when the heart of many a 
godly merchant shall leap at the honor of such an 
enterprise, and his "swift ships" fly upon these errands 
of mercy. 

It is not to be concealed that the pirates which in- 
fest parts of the coast, and the mouths of some of the 
rivers, are numerous and desperate. Plunder is their 
only object, force their only law, and destruction the 
only quarter they show : but they are principally con- 



BORNEO. 



329 



fined to the east and south-east coasts, and there 
would be no necessity of going near their districts, at 
least with vessels which would invito an attack or 
could not repel one. Between different parts of the 
coast and some of its most accessible points, and 
Singapore, there is a constant trade kept up, and the 
missionary residing at the latter place often visits their 
proas and supplies them with Christian books. Here, 
then, is another opening, through which the Gospel 
might be introduced, not only in the way of tracts, 
but through the visitation of the living teacher. As 
in the case of Mr. Dalton, these traders might be bound 
to protect the missionary, by the strongest guarantee 
they know, and thus he might gain access, under a 
security, which independent of special protection from 
on high, would give him comparative safety. 



CHAPTER XV, 



CELEBES. SOOLOO, 

Celebes, a short distance east of Borneo-, is anoth- 
er island of much importance, and teeming with sav- 
age inhabitants. It is remarkable for the martial spirit 
commercial enterprize and piratical atrocities of many 
of its inhabitants. The most prominent nations are 
the Bugis and Macassar or Mengasar tribes, They 
speak different languages, or more properly different 
dialects of the same language,— the written character 
being nearly the same. The language of Goa or Ma- 
cassar is peculiarly soft and easy of acquisiton, but 
not so copious as the Bugis— the latter having em- 
bodied in their vocabulary a greater number of foreign 
words. The literary compositions in both are nu- 
merous. They consist principally of historical de- 
tails, written since the introduction of Mahomedanism, 
in the early part of the sixteenth century; traditions 
of more early times, romances, poetical compositions 
of love, war and the chase. They have a paraphrase 
of the Koran, and several works translated, most pn> 
bably from the Javanese and Arabic ; each particular 
State records its public events as they occur, 

29 



332 



CELEBES 



In intellectual vigor, and various acquirements? 
these nations far surpass the Malays, and many other 
of the neighboring tribes. Here then are advantages 
for missionary labor, which are seldom found among 
such otherwise barbarous creatures. They have extend- 
ed their commerce from the western shores of Siam 
to the eastern coast of New-Holland. Excepting the 
Arabs, they are the only traders of consequence 
throughout the Archipelago. They have the charac- 
ter of fair dealing in trade, but are most determined 
pirates — preying especially upon their weaker neigh- 
bors, the Malays, whom they regard as their inferiors. 
The Mahomedan religion prevails in the south-west, 
but in the north and central parts of the island they 
are Pagans, or scarcely have a religion. The abo- 
rigines of the island, possessing the interior, are stri- 
kingly allied in appearance and customs to the Dyaks 
of Borneo. They are known by the same name. 
By the Dutch they are denominated Alfores. The 
fondness of both for cutting off heads is the same— 
their languages are different. 

Mandhaar, on the west coast of Celebes, was visited 
by Mr. Dalton. The mountains are stupendous, and 
can be seen at a distance of one hundred miles or 
more, at sea. For more than twelve miles along the 
shore where he landed, the houses almost join each 
other. The people are in general miserably poor, and 
live upon the meanest fare. All the rice which they 
use, is brought from a distance of two hundred and 
fifty miles. None but the chief people can afford this 
luxury. The inhabitants generally live upon sago, 
which, though of a coarse quality, grows most luxuri- 



CELEBES. 



333 



antly, and imposes no other tax upon the indolence of 
the natives than the labor of collecting it. Cocoa-nuts 
of the most delicious flavor abound. For the dis- 
tance of seventy miles, the whole coast is adorned 
with cocoa-nut trees, extending in many places to the 
base of the mountains, half a mile from the shore. 
These constitute a principal article of trade, — being ex- 
ported in great numbers to every part of the eastern 
coast of Borneo, where very few are produced. 

Shell-fish enter largely into the common food of 
the inhabitants. These they take when the tide ebbs. 
The shore is sandy, and the sea retires at least four 
miles, at which time the whole population is in mo- 
tion, following the water as it recedes, and picking up 
crabs and various kinds of craw-fish. When the tide 
flows again, different parties get into their small ca- 
noes and paddle to their houses, Fish caught in nets, 
is eaten only by the wealthier class, for though very 
cheap, it proves too dear for those who have nothing 
with which to purchase it. The only articles the 
common people are obliged to buy, are tobacco and 
salt, and to pay for these, all the women and children of 
the community spend their time in making sarongs,* 
for which they obtain a sufficient sum to procure the 
required articles, and to furnish the master of the 
house with a small allowance for gambling. The 
rajah and his family, and all others who can meet the 
required expense, smoke great quantities of opium. 
From the effects of this drug, they are constantly in a 
state of stupidity, and refuse to see strangers until 



* A native garment. 



mi 



CELEBES 



time is given them to recover, They sell their gold 
dustj in which ihe rajah and some of his brothers are 
rich, for nothing but opium, muskets, swivels and gun- 
powder. 

Jlamoodjoo. the principal campong in the district 
of Mandhaar, is the residence of about forty rajahs, 
each of whom has a separate dominion in the interior, 
although they prefer living together on the coast. 
Their countries produce gold, of which they obtain 
sufficient for their wants. Many of them appear to 
possess a large quantity of the metal, and although 
cautious in every other kind of expenditure, they wil- 
lingly bring forth any amount to pay for the means of 
carrying on their wars and piracies, and to purchase 
enough of opium to keep them in a constant delirium 
of intoxication. 

From the point of Jlandhaar to Kylie. including 
that place, there are about fifty rajahs, few of whom 
have less than ten proas, and some even upwards of 
one hundred. The smallest of these carry one bar- 
rel of gun powder — the largest five, beside which they 
keep a quantity on shore. The large supply of this 
article in constant demand, is smuggled from Java, 
and obtained from American vessels, near Penar.g, 
Such is the miserable quality of the powder sold them 
by the Americans, who employ samples of a good 
quality to deceive them, that it is necessary to prime 
with another kind: and the muskets are composes :: 
such materials, that you are said to be nearly as safe in 
being shot at. as in firing them. Still these numer- 
ous pirates commit, at times, dreadful ravages. Two 
Dutch vessels were taken by them in 1828, and every 



CELEBES. 



335 



soul on board murdered. The inhabitants of Kylie 
are proverbial every where for these atrocities. For 
the last twenty years the rajah has carried on his de- 
predations in these seas, and besides his other captures 
has taken many Europeans, a few of whom it is 
thought are still living in slavery, in Borneo. 

Except Macassar, no part of Celebes has been con- 
quered by Europeans. In Boni not a foot of ground 
has been retained. Waagoo, or Waju, is still less 
known, and every other part of the country not at all, 
All the native States retain their primitive greatness, 
and the most enlightened of them have never been 
visited by Europeans. The writer met a Dutch offi- 
cer, who is perhaps the only exception to the above- 
remark. He had penetrated some distance into the 
interior, and spoke very highly of the intelligence and 
hospitality of one of the native queens, whose district 
he visited. 

The northern parts of Celebes are inhabited by a 
number of native tribes, who have never been con- 
verted to Mahomedanism, and do not appear to be 
wedded to any heathenish superstitions. They are 
strongly attached to the Dutch, and acknowledge them 
as their superiors and lords. They appear early to 
have attracted the attention of the Christians in Hol- 
land, and were furnished with a minister who bap- 
tized large numbers, and established among them 
schools with native teachers. Still this promising field 
was but scantily supplied with the means of culture, 
and during the ravages of the French revolution it 
was quite forgotten by the churches at home. On 
the arrival of the first permanent missionary of the 

29* 



336 



SOOLOO. 



new era. much interest was manifested by the native 
chiefs, and descendants of Christians, to have schools 
re-opened among them. Such were the predilections 
in favor of Christianity, that in a few years, more 
than six hundred persons were admitted to the church. 
Some of the rajahs offered themselves as instructors 
of their own people. In 1S31. Messrs. Reidel and 
Schwartz, missionaries of the Netherlands society, ar- 
rived in the island. After exploring the whole coun- 
try, they fixed upon two places for their permanent 
abodes. Mr. Reidel remains at Tondano and Mr. 
Schwartz at Longowan. These brethren are great- 
ly encouraged with their prospects of usefulness. The 
schools in the environs of Maaado are numerous and 
increasing, the church prospers, and the Lord evident- 
ly blesses the labors of his servants. " The Dutch 
government has greatly aided the missionaries in the 
prosecution of their work. There is also a spirit of 
improvement in the external circumstances of the na- 
tives, which always accompanies the progress of the 
pure C4ospe!. Y\*e shall soon hear more respecting 
the great things which the Redeemer has done for 
these poor islanders."* 

Farther to the north lies the island of Sooloo, and 
a small group known by that name. Though com- 
paratively limited in dimensions. Sooloo is represent- 
ed by Dampier as one of the most interesting islands 
in this part of the world. It is celebrated for the 
large quantity of ambergris thrown upon its shores, 
as also for its valuable pearl fishery. Beside these 

* Chinese Repository j Vol. II. 



SOOLOO. 



33? 



sources of wealth, it abounds in wax, gold, birds' nests, 
beche de mer, and other articles of traffic. Writers 
differ about the number and character of its inhabit- 
ants. All agree respecting the power of the sultan, 
whose dominions include the neighboring islands and 
part "of the coast of Borneo. Some affirm that it has 
<; a vigorous government, a numerous fleet, and an 
army of fifty thousand well equipped men, animated 
by superstition and united in hatred of the Christian 
name:' The Spaniards made two successive at- 
tempts to reduce it to their authority, but were repell- 
ed. In a third attack they gained possession, but 
were soon obliged to abandon it. The fourth and last 
effort resulted in their disgrace, and in a successful 
reprisal made by the natives, and some of their Ma- 
homedan neighbors, who laid waste the Spanish pos- 
sessions for three years. 

For the speedy conversion of the numerous tribes 
inhabiting the islands of these seas, including the north 
of Borneo, where Spanish influence is not felt, and 
the Roman- Catholic religion is not acknowledged, we 
must call upon those who possess the means of inter- 
course and traffic with the nations, and whose inval- 
uable talent, it is hoped, will no longer be laid up in 
a napkin. 



CHAPTER XVI 



PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 

About north-east from Sooloo is situated the island 
of Mindanao — Magindanao of the charts. It contains 
nearly as many square miles as the largest of the 
Philippines. The Spaniards, in the zenith of their 
glory, repeatedly attempted the subjugation of this 
island as well as its neighbors, but were either repulsed 
or soon obliged to abandon their dearly gained pos- 
sessions. In one expedition it is said they did not 
even land, being appalled by the crowd of armed na- 
tives who lined the shore. They did, however, suc- 
ceed in gaining a footing on its south-western part, 
where they still have a small useless settlement. 

The island is said to be peopled throughout, with 
an industrious race of men, many of them from the 
shores of Cambodjia. The captain of a Cochin-Chi- 
na junk, who had frequently visited this island, and 
others of the Sooloo group, declared that they were as 
thickly populated as any part of northern China. Mr. 
Dalton was informed that from Cochin-China, and the 
native States about the mouth of Cambodjia river, 
more than one hundred proas of different siz^es sailed 



340 



PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 



annually to Mindanao, and that each of them con- 
tained from fifty to five hundred emigrants. Whether 
this be exaggeration or fact, another writer affirms, 
that "the center and southern part of the island, and 
particularly the shores of its numerous inlets and in- 
terior lakes, are crowded with an immense popula- 
tion.'* M While vessels of respectable size and force, 
trade without danger, at these places, depredations are 
often committed on the defenseless, both by land and 
sea/" They have a peculiar language, though they 
understand the Malay. The religion is Islamism. 

To the west lies the island of Palawan, which is 
also said to contain a dense population. Large num- 
bers of emigrants annually arrive, who are obliged to 
spread themselves over other islands. Magellan pos- 
sesses much of the character of the two already no- 
ticed. 

Including these islands, and extending north to the 
Bashee passage, is the Philippine group. According 
to the authority of one" who resided some time in Ma- 
nilla; ,: the Spanish possessions extend from the Batan 
island? on the north to Mindanao on the south, and 
from Paragua or Palawan on the west, to the Mariani 
islands on the east : but their sovereignty over all 
these limits is not equally full. The Batan islands 
appear to be rather an ecclesiastical than a civil de- 
pendency. The .Spanish possessions thus defined, 
comprehend twenty-eight provinces, of the greater 
part of which there are no published accounts. They 

* C. W. King. Esq.j from whose manuscript, in connection with a 
small work published a few years ago in India, these extracts are 
taken. 



PHILIPPINE ISLANDS 



341 



contain a population of three millions and a half, 
These are generally found along the shores of the sea, 
around the bays, and upon the banks of the rivers ; 
the interior of the islands being yet a dense forest, 
In the depths of these forests some wretched aborigines 
still exist, — the relics of tribes dispossessed by their 
Malayan invaders," 

In a volume published in India, and reviewed in 
the Chinese Repository, it is said that in " situation, 
riches, fertility, and salubrity, the Philippines are not 
exceeded. Nature has here revealed, according to all 
that poets and painters have imagined, the unbounded 
luxuriance of Asiatic scenery. The lofty chains of 
mountains, the rich and extensive slopes which form 
their bases, the ever varying change of forest, and sa- 
vannah, of rivers and Jakes, and the yet blazing volca- 
noes in the midst of forests, coeval perhaps with their 
first eruption — all stamp the works of Deity with the 
mighty emblems of His creative and destroying pow- 
ers." Rice, sugar, coffee, cocoa, hemp, tobacco, cot- 
ton, indigo, and many kinds of delicious fruits, are 
among the articles of produce which render these isl- 
ands highly valuable. 

Of the numerous inhabitants of the Philippines but 
a few - hundreds are Europeans, the remainder are Ne- 
groes, Malays, Mestizos and Creoles. The negroes 
are doubtless the original inhabitants of the islands. 
They are small in stature, woolly headed, and thick 
lipped, some black, and others of a mulatto complex- 
ion. They live in low huts of canes, sow rice, maize, 
potatoes. &c, and come down to the neighboring vil- 
lages to exchange wax, deer, and fruits of the forest, 



342 



PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 



for articles of necessity. They are divided into many 
tribes, and are distinguished by peculiar habits and 
dialects. The most degraded of them are described 
as " naked vagrants, without home, without religion, 
with no other shelter than that which the rocks and 
trees afford ; satisfying the cravings of hunger with 
wild fruits and unhealthy roots ; rarely using their 
bows on the abundant game around them, though 
ready enough to draw them against their fellow men. 
Covered from head to foot with loathsome scurf and 
eruptions, their longest life rarely exceeds forty years. 
The oldest of them is recognized as chief. They in- 
ter their dead with a flint, steel, and tinder, a hatchet 
and a piece of venison; and the passenger is obliged 
to leave at the grave a part of what he has obtained in 
barter, or caught in the chase." 

" The Malays, or Indians, as they are called by the 
Spaniards, appear to have emigrated to this country at 
different times, and from different parts of Borneo and 
Celebes. Those of the provinces are a proud spirited 
race of men, possessing all the elements of greatness, 
though for three hundred years they had been ground 
to the earth by oppression — their spirit has been tor- 
tured by abuse and contempt, and brutalized by igno- 
rance." The same writer describes the Indian as 
" brave, tolerably faithful, extremely sensible of kind 
treatment, and feelingly alive to injustice and con- 
tempt, proud of ancestry, which some of them carry 
to a remote epoch, fond of dress and show, hunting, 
riding, and other field exercises ; but prone to gam- 
bling and dissipation. He is active, industrious, and 
remarkably ingenious. He possesses an acute ear and 



PHILIPPINE ISLAND. 



343 



a good taste for music and painting, but little inclina- 
tion for abstruse studies. He has by nature excellent 
talents, but these are useless from want of instruction. 
The little he has received has rendered him fanatical 
in religious opinions, and long contempt and hopeless 
misery have mingled with his character a degree of 
apathy which nothing but an entire change of system 
and long perseverance will efface from it." This, 
however, does not exhibit the worst features of their 
character. 

Ai Under the name of Mestizos are included not only 
the descendants of Spaniards by Indian women, but 
also those of Chinese, who are in general whiter than 
either parent, and carefully distinguish themselves 
from the Indians. The Mestizos, with the Creoles 
of the country, like those of all colonies, when un- 
corrected by an European education, inherit the vices 
of both progenitors, with scarcely any of the virtues 
of either. Their character has but few marked traits. 
The principal ones are vanity, industry, and trading 
ingenuity. Money is their god. To obtain it they 
assume all forms, promise and betray, submit to every 
thing, trample and are trampled on. All is alike to 
them if they can obtain their end. And when their 
wishes are answered, they dissipate their wealth in 
law-suits, firing cannons, fireworks, illuminations, pro- 
cessions on feast days and rejoicings, in gifts to the 
churches, and in gambling. This anomaly of action 
is the business of their lives. Too proud to consider 
themselves as Indians, and not sufficiently pure in 
blood to be acknowledged as Spaniards, they affect the 
manners of the last, with the dress of the first, and 

30 



344 



PHILIPPINE ISLANDS, 



despising, are despised by both. Such are the three 
great classes of men which may be considered as na- 
tives of the Philippine islands. The Creole Span- 
iards, or those whose blood is but little mingled with 
Indian ancestry, pass as Spaniards. Many of them are 
respectable merchants and men of large property, 
while others are sunk in all the vices of the Indians 
and Mestizos*** 

" The Chinese residents retain here, as in every 
place, their national character, active in business, and 
not above its meanest minutiae, winning their way by 
pliancy and presents — unprincipled in acquiring, and 
gross and sensual in enjoying their gains. Their 
close combination, and large share in the most profit- 
able and least laborious employments, have always 
brought on them the envy and hatred of the Indians, 
Upon the complaints of the latter, government has 
been led to treat them severely. Yet they have proved 
themselves serviceable to the country, and its other 
inhabitants. Few of them are men of much property r 
though doing a great proportion of the commercial 
business of the country. They procure licenses to 
remain, receive baptism, become Roman Catholics, in- 
termarry and hold property, but when able to return 
to China they appear not to regret leaving their fami- 
lies and their faith behind. Their number is proba- 
bly twenty thousand, which is a mean between the 
low official estimate, and common opinion." Such is 
the feeling of hostility towards the Chinese, that they 
have had their commerce interrupted, have been ex- 
pelled from the island, and sometimes slaughtered in 
great numbers. 



PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 



345 



" That this highly favored country should have re- 
mained to the present day almost a forest, is a circum- 
stance which has generally excited surprise, and has 
been attributed to the indolence of the Spaniards and 
Indians ; but this is a superficial view of the subject. 
The true reason is " because there is no security for 
property.*' Does an unfortunate Indian scrape togeth- 
er a few dollars to buy a buffalo, in which consists his 
whole riches ? Woe to him if it be known, and if his 
house stand in a lonely situation. He is infallibly 
robbed. Does he complain, and is the robber caught? 
In a short time he is let loose again to take ven- 
geance on his accuser, and renew his depredations. 
Hundreds of families are yearly ruined in this 
way. The imperfect mode of trial, both in civil 
and criminal cases, lays them open to a thousand 
frauds." 

That which in the history of these islands is most 
to be deplored, and which has been perhaps the prin- 
cipal cause of the ferocity and treachery which in the 
East characterise Manilla men* is their religion. 
" The church of Rome has here proselyted to itself 
the entire population. The natives have become 
bigoted Papists. The services of the church are ad- 
ministered by nearly one thousand " fraiies,*' " curas," 
" cleros," <fcc; the first offices being held by the Spanish 
clergy." At the head of this colonial establishment 
is an archbishop, who has three suffragans and two 
hundred and fifty Spanish clergy, besides about eight 

* Such is the revengeful and sanguinary character of these men, 
that it is said they affect the insurance of the ships in which they are 
employed. The massacre of 1820 illustrates the ferocity of their 
character. 



PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 



hundred natives. The influence of these priests is 
unbounded. They liold the minds of the misera- 
ble natives in complete subjection, while they them- 
selves are the slaves as well as the patrons of ini- 
quity. Their ministrations are confined to the al- 
tar and the confession box. :i Common report at- 
tributes to the priests lives deformed with the gross- 
est immoralities. In the obscurity of their parishes, 
much concealment to their licentious conduct is not 
attempted, nor have the majority of them refine- 
ment enough to think it becoming.' 5 One source 
of vice and poverty among the natives is the num- 
ber of religious observances imposed upon them. 
i: The church has marked out. exclusive of Sundays, 
above forty days in the year, on which no labor must 
be performed throughout the island. Besides these, 
there are numerous local feasts, in honor of the patron 
saints of towns and churches. These feasts invaria- 
bly end in gambling, drinking, and debauchery of 
every description. 

While the Spaniards retain the possession of these 
islands and the priests bear the rule, we scarcely see 
how any efforts can be made for the spiritual welfare 
of the natives. The importation of Bibles is strictly 
prohibited. Every ship is searched, and the most se- 
rious consequences might result to those who incurred 
the displeasure or even the suspicions oi the priests. 
The city of Manilla, which contains some forty thou- 
sand inhabitants, and is described as an agreeable 
tropical residence, would be a most advantageous post 
for missions. Let every Christian pray that the pow- 
er of the Beast may be destroyed, and the scepter of 
Jesus be extended over these perishing souls. 



CHAPTER XVII. 



LOO CHOO ISLANDS. 

North-East from the Philippine islands, is situa- 
ted the Loo Choo group, of which such interesting ac- 
counts have been furnished, both by European and 
Chinese voyagers. There are about thirty-six of 
these islands, subject to the same government, though 
all very limited in dimensions. The largest is only 
fifty miles long, and twelve or fifteen broad. Like 
many of the other islands described, some of them are 
represented as beautiful spots. " From a commanding 
bight above the ships," says an English writer, " the 
view is in all directions picturesque and delightful. 
On the one hand are seen the distant lands rising 
from the wide expanse of ocean, while the clearness 
of the water enables the eye to trace all the coral 
reefs which protect the anchorage immediately below. 
To the south is the city of Napafoo — the vessels lying 
at anchor in the harbor, with their streamers flying ; 
and in the intermediate space, appear numerous ham- 
lets, scattered about on the banks of the rivers which 
meander in the valley beneath. Turning to the east, 
the houses of Kint-ching, the capital city, built in 



U8 



LOO CHOO ISLANDS, 



their peculiar style, are observed, opening from among 
the lofty trees which surround and shade them, rising; 
one above another in gentle ascent to the summit of a 
hill, which is crowned by the king's palace : the inte- 
resting grounds between NapofF and Kint-ching, — a 
distance of some miles, being ornamented by a contin- 
uation of villas and country houses. To the north, 
as far as the «ye can reach, the higher land is covered 
with extensive forests." The climate is also said to 
be " one of the most propitious in the world.*' 

But it is not only the scenery and salubrity of these 
islands which interest those who visit them.. The 
inhabitants themselves, though small in stature, aad 
effeminate in appearance, are uniformly described as 
persons of great intelligence and addresSc Their po- 
liteness, if possible, exceeds that of the Chinese. It 
extends through all classes of society, and often 
leads to such compliments and professions of friend- 
ship, as quite nonpluss the other party. " They show 
more good sense,*' says a visitor,* whose knowledge 
of the Chinese nation, is extensive, "than we had ever 
seen in China. By their questions respecting the 
trade, which several European nations carried on at 
Canton, they discovered much geographical know- 
ledge. They were able to converse on politics with 
great volubility." 

We cannot, however, from the accounts of subse- 
quent writers, fully confide in that high estimate of 
their character which the first English visitors formed. 
Owing to the norvelty of their circumstances, they no 



* Gutzlaff. 



Lao choo islands. 



349 



doubt acted an assumed part., and made every thing 
appear to the best advantage before the polite guests. 
Gutzlaff declares " they did not hesitate to tell us lies 
whenever it suited their purpose but they were as 
ready to retract what they had utterred. Upon in- 
quiry we found that they had among them the same 
severe punishments as at Corea that they possessed 
arms likewise,, but are averse to using them." Still 
he, as well as all others, represents them as among the 
finest specimens of unchristianized men. From a 
Chinese account it appears that one of the ancient 
kings " laid the foundation of his kingdom by military 
force, and that till this day there is, in a temple dedi- 
cated to him, an arrow placed before the tablets, on 
which his name is inscribed, and which tradition 
says is in conformity with his dying will, to show that 
his kingdom was founded on military prowess."* 

According ta this account, c: the supreme power 
is in the hands of the prime minister, who is abso- 
lute. All affairs of the revenue, the designation of 
the army, and the infliction of punishments, are under 
his control, although the form of reporting to the king 
and receiving his sanction, is observed. This ac- 
counts for the idea suggested to captain Maxwell,, of 
having the minister address the king of England. 
The letter was declined, because it did not come from 
the Loo Choo King. They have derived from China, 
the division of their officers into nine ranks, and they 
have drawn up a compendium of law, from the Chi- 
nese penal code. 



* lade-Chinese Gleaner,, vol. IL 



330 



LOO CHOO ISLANDS 



The majority of the people, as in Japan, under- 
stand the Chinese character, but do not know how to 
read it in the Mandarin dialect. Their own language 
seems greatly to resemble the Japanese. The alpha- 
betical writing is nearly of the same form, and the 
letters are pronounced in the same way, with a very 
few exceptions. In imitation of the Chinese system, 
district schools have been established by the king, 
and the examination of students is conducted on the 
same plan. The king gives them an occasional ban- 
quet, by way of encouragement. They have set up 
the image of Confucius, and study carefully the com- 
mentary of Choo-foo-tsze. The readiness with which 
they acquire a smattering of the English language, 
evinces an uncommon share of intellect, as well as 
of tact in its employment. "I was much surprised,'' 
says a visitor, "to find a person in such a spot, speak 
tolerable English, and was answered to my inquiries 
on that snbjeci, that an English ship had been at the 
islands three years before, and remained a few days, 
in which time he (the interpreter) had learned what I 
now heard."' 

Their religion is that of Budha. They have none 
of the sect of Taou-sze ; there are nuns among them. 
They had temples in the thirteenth century, the 
foundations of which have long since disappeared. 
They have imitated what they saw in China, and 
have even imported her idols, the Queen of heaven 
and others. According to their accounts a priest of 
Budha was driven on their isiand in a boat about A. D. 
1275. They knew not whence he came ; but he com- 
menced a line of priesthood, which has been kept up 



LOO CHOO ISLANDS. 



351 



ever since. As in China, they have those among 
them who pretend to point oat propitious spots for 
graves, though none of them profess to understand 
astrology. As a nation there is every reason to be- 
lieve that they care very little about their supersti- 
tions. " When they heard that we did not worship 
idols.' 7 says Gutzlaff, " they replied, 1 We also abhor 
this worship ; those which you see here are the pro- 
perty of the Budhists, and we do not batter our heads 
against them.' This has been the general reply of 
many Mandarins, when I inquired upon this subject. 
They disavow practical idolatry, because their reason 
disapproves the theory ; yet they do in fact persevere 
in their unreasonable worship." 

Their refusal to allow Europeans to trade, and 
the pains they uniformly take to prevent intercourse 
between strangers and themselves, have probably been 
dictated by their more powerful neighbors. " We do 
not doubt," says the writer already quoted^ " that they 
have received strict ciders from China to keep stran- 
gers aloof, and to treat them with distance and re- 
serve, yet they were too good natured to confess, it." 
If by dint of persuasion, sour looks, or even lying, 
they can keep foreigners from landing, it is always 
done. Their reason for rejecting the application of 
the " Lord Amherst" to trade, was because 11 their 
country was poor and unproductive of any thing 
which they could give in exchange for our imports ; 
that besides, they had never traded with the English, 
and therefore this would be an innovation contrary 
to law." In this case, however, they had those to 
deal with, whp, though they did not insist upon. 



352 



LOO CHOO ISLANDS. 



trading, were too well acquainted with the nature of 
such prohibitions to be frightened by them, and who, 
contrary to their wishes and whims, landed when, and 
wandered where, their inclinations directed. They 
objected, as they had done before, to the distribution 
of books : but their objections were overruled by the 
same system of apparent forwardness and unyielding 
perseverance which had been adopted among the 
Chinese. 

There is every reason to believe, that here, as in 
China, the people would be favorable to foreign inter- 
course, and that all the opposition to it originates with 
the government. When the Mandarins were out of 
the way, the people received books and presents with 
great eagerness. " Whenever we gave any thing 
privately, they would gladly accept it, though they 
took the books in preference ; but every thing openly 
offered them was always declined. The practice of 
medicine drew crowds of patients, who felt the supe- 
riority of our medical skill, and received Christian 
books with gladness." 

The inquiry remains in reference to these inte- 
resting heathen, what shall be done, — what ought to 
be done for their eternal welfare ? How shall these 
lovely islands be reduced to the dominion of Christ? 
Might not ships visit them — flight not their objec- 
tions to an honorable trade be annulled — ought we 
not to distribute freely among them the written 
word 7 — and who knows but that the living teacher 
might force himself upon them,— soon dissipate their 
groundless fears, and prove to them the advantages of 
his presence and influence. They must soon be an-- 



LOO CHOO ISLANDS. 



353 



nexed to the kingdom of Jesus ; and it is high time 
that the children of the kingdom should attempt some 
plan for their immediate advantage. Ye merchant- 
men, who have found the pearl of great price, to you 
another appeal must be made. When will you 
connect, with the system of missionary societies, 
missionary agents, and missionary presses, mission- 
ary ships ? 



CHAPTER XVI I L 



JAPAN. 

Still farther to the north, is the kingdom or em- 
pire of Japan, which occupies a surface of more than 
one hundred and twenty thousand square miles, and 
contains a population of twenty or thirty millions of 
souls. It consists of three large islands, Niphon, Kew 
Sew, and Sikokf, surrounded with a multitude of 
smaller ones, and in the vicinity of others, stretching 
northward, over which they exercise a partial domin- 
ion. According to M. M. Brun, " the whole coun- 
try is full of mountains and hills, and its coasts are 
beset with steep rocks, which are opposed to the 
waves of a stormy ocean. The plains are pervaded 
by numerous rivers and small streams. The hills, 
the mountains, and the plains, present the interesting 
picture of human industry, amid the traces of the 
revolutions of nature. These islands experience by 
turns the extremes of heat and cold. The summer 
heat is frequently alleviated by sea breezes. In win- 
ter the north and north-west winds are exceedingly 
sharp, and bring along with them an intense frost, 
During the whole year the weather is variable, and 

31 



356 



JAPAN, 



much rain falls in the rainy season, which begins at 
midsummer. These genial rains conspire with hu- 
man labor and manure to overcome the natural ste^ 
rility of the soil. Every spot is under cultivation,; 
with the exception of the most impracticable moun- 
tains. Exempt from feudal and ecclesiastical exac- 
tions,, the farmer cultivates the ground with zeal and 
success/' In the hands of such laborious husband- 
men the country is rendered exceedingly productive. 
It is said that the tea shrub grows without culture in 
the hedges. Precious metals and minerals also abound. 
There are a number of large towns in the empire, 
some of which contain a population of several hun-^ 
dred thousands of souls. The capital-is Miyako. It 
is situated in the midst of a highly cultivated plain, 
and is reported to contain a population of fifteen hun- 
dred thousand souls. Don Eodrigo. who visited this 
city more than two centuries ago. declares that he was 
occupied from seven in the morning until evening, in 
riding around its walls on horseback. He was great- 
ly surprised at the magnificence of one of the idol 
temples, whose unfinished structure gave employment 
to more than one hundred thousand daily laborers, 
The huge dimensions of the idol were still more as- 
tounding. He affirms that a man of large size in his 
train could not inclose the thumb of the image with 
his two arms, and that its proportions were admirably 
preserved. 

The Japanese are short and muscular in form, 
though extremely graceful, and excessively polite. 
The complexion of the people varies as in China ; the 
women of distinction; who are seldom exposed to the 



JAPAN. 



357 



sun and air, are as fair as European ladies. Stili 
there is very little beauty among them. " Large heads, 
short necks, broad snubby noses, and oblong, small, 
and sunken eyes," constitute the features of the ma- 
jority. The mode of wearing their hair, and the 
quantity of oiled paper in which they wrap them- 
selves for their journeys, render them rather ludicrous 
objects. 

The foundation of this ancient Empire was laid by 
Sinmoo, — probably of Chinese origin, — about two 
thousand five hundred years ago. What a countless 
host of immortals have groped their dark way down 
to the second death, through this long lapse of ages. 
The government is very peculiar. The emperor, — 
of celestial descent^ — has no voice in the ordinary af- 
fairs of the empire, though in the higher decisions of 
state he must be consulted. A generallissimo of ex- 
tensive and dangerous powers, bears the real authori- 
ty, and might easily overpower the nominal influence 
of the 11 son of heaven." 

According to some travelers, " the laws of the coun- 
try are few, and executed with the utmost rigor, and 
without respect of persons ; only that the rich, when 
found guilty, are allowed to get off by paying pecun- 
iary fines. Delinquencies of trifling magnitude are 
punished with death. The moral education of the 
children being a political duty, parents are rendered 
accountable for the crimes of those whose early vices 
they ought to have repressed. In each village there 
is a place surrounded with palisades, containing in the 
middle an inscription in large characters, consisting 
of a code of police regulations. The punishments in 



358 



JAPAN. 



the seventeenth century were marked with the utmost 
cruelty. "Hacking criminals to pieces, — opening the 
bodies with a knife, — suspending 1 them with iron hooks 
in their sides, — or throwing them into boiling oil,— 
were common modes of execution. As in many other 
unchristianized nations, one is made responsible for 
the offenses of another, and families and entire villages 
are visited with the extremity of punishment for the 
fault of an individual." 

The language of Japan is distinct from the Chi- 
nese, though the educated class understands the Chi- 
nese character, and reads the books in that language. 
Their own is alphabetic, apparently made up of dis- 
tinct parts of the complicated signs employed in 
China. 

There are two religious sects in the country, that 
of Sinto and the followers of Budha. "The first ac- 
knowledges a Supreme Being ; but imagines that he 
is too exalted to receive the homage of men, or to have 
a regard for their petty interests. A large metalic 
mirror is placed in the middle- of the temples, to re- 
mind the worshipers that as every spot on the body is 
there faithfully represented, the faults of the soul are 
seen with equal clearness by the eyes of the Immor- 
tals. The feasts and ceremonies of their worship are 
agreeable and cheerful, because they consider their de- 
ities as beings who take pleasure in dispensing happi- 
ness. Budhism here is said to be so mixed with the 
Sinto, or old religion of Japan, that it is difficult, and. 
perhaps will become in time impossible, to make any 
discrimination between the votaries of the two." 

The Jesuits and other Romish orders had the trial 



JAPAN. 



359 



of nearly a century to propagate their faith in Japan. 
As early as 1549, they commenced their proselyting 
operations in this remote part of the world. Their 
early success stimulated them to great attempts ; seve- 
ral governors and tributary kings openly professed 
Catholicism, and in one district the Jesuits obtained 
the entire prohibition of every other religion. But 
their triumph was short. A persecution almost as 
barbarous and bloody as some of their own, commen- 
ced and raged with such fury, that tens of thousands 
were massacred ; their faith was expunged, and their 
very name made a term of infamy until this day. 
The distresses they endured are ascribed to various 
causes. The political intrigues of the Jesuits, and 
other measures suggested by a presumptuous confi- 
dence in their own influence, are among the most pro- 
bable reasons. Some affirm that the captain of a Por- 
tuguese vessel, which was taken by the Japanese, rep- 
resented the missionaries as minions of the Portuguese 
government j sent to prepare the way for their con- 
quests. Others suppose that something ought to be 
attributed to the commercial jealousy of the^ Dutch, 
but upon what ground this allegation is made, we are 
not informed. 

Our usual inquiry has yet to be made, — What can 
be done for the salvation of this kingdom ? Notwith- 
standing all the rigor of their exclusive laws, mer- 
chants trade along their coasts, and come in contact 
with great numbers of the natives, among whom the 
bread of life might be distributed, and perhaps the liv- 
ing teacher reside. The following is extracted from 
the journals of captains who felt an interest in the 

31* 



360 



JAPAX. 



propagation of Christianity, and who wrote to the late 
editor of the Indo-Chinese Gleaner on the subject. 
The ship from whose voyage the first statement is 
taken, had been lying at Nangasaki, in the island of 
Kiusiu, the only place in which foreign vessels are al- 
lowed by law to anchor. Even this limited privilege 
is at present confined to the Dutch and Chinese na- 
tions. " After quitting Nangasaki, they landed occa- 
sionally at the villages on the coast, and were courte- 
ously received by the inhabitants, who were very nu- 
merous and poor, with large families of children." They 
describe Jesso, one of the islands alluded to. and situ- 
ated north of Niphon, as extensive, and inhabited by 
a mild and inoffensive race of men. They are subject 
to the Japanese, who have a large city on the south 
coast of the island, and are, no doubt according to in- 
structions, averse to intercourse with foreigners. '-The 
Sagalien peninsula is situated immediately to the north 
of Jesso, from whence it is distant, in one part, but a 
few miles. The middle districts of the islands are 
yet in the possession of the natives, with whom, no 
doubt, a missionary might reside in as much security 
as among more civilized nations. Perhaps the best 
expedient which could be adopted to plant a mission 
among them, would be to ask permission at one place, 
and if refused, to proceed to another, and another, un- 
til every one is tried which held forth the probability 
of success ; and then, if the application is rejected by 
all, to land and stay without leave. "* 

Another captain, who visited the famous capital of 
Jeddo or Iedo, and who applied for permission to trade, 
gives a most interesting account of the place and its 



JAPAN. 



361 



inhabitants. They were obliged to land their arms 
and ammunition, dismantle the ship, and submit to 
the closest possible surveillence. " At first oar visit- 
ors were too numerous and constant, but after the first 
day strangers were kept from us, and not even allow- 
ed to come afloat ; however the shore was daily 
crowded with spectators, a very great majority of 
whom were females.'' " On the fourth day I was grat- 
ified by a visit from two interpreters, one of whom 
was a perfect master of the Dutch language, and the 
other knew something of Russian ; each could speak 
a little English. 7 ' Their inquiries manifested consid- 
erable acquaintance with the world, and especially 
with its politics. ' Russia, France, England and Hol- 
land, were all subjects of conversation and inquiry. 
After their application to trade was as usual refused, 
every thing was returned to the ship, and she was 
towed out of the bay by about thirty boats. " Express- 
ing the hope," continues the captain, "that I would be 
allowed to leave with the interpreters some trifling re- 
membrance, they answered that the laws of the em- 
pire were so strict, that they could not receive any- 
thing whatever. I believe that all parties regretted 
the circumstances under which we were quitting each 
other. The shore was not only thronged with spec- 
tators, but many hundreds came by water to the neigh- 
boring shores, to gratify their curiosity by a sight of 
the strange vessel. We were scarcely quitted by the 
tow boats, when some of these persons approached 
very near, and at length accepted our invitation to 
come on board. Our decks were soon thronged in 
such a manner that I was glad to see a guard boat 



362 



pull towards us for the purpose of dispersing the 
crowd, by whom they were no sooner recognized than 
they fled in every direction : however many quickly 
returned, and when we would point out a guard boat 
afterwards, some would merely laugh, and say that 
they did not care for them ; while at other times they 
would quit, and give us to understand that they were 
afraid of being destroyed. In the course of that day 
and the following, we had not less than two thousand 
persons on board, all of whom were eager to barter 
for trifles. Among other things I had the pleasure of 
obtaining some little books, and other specimens of 
the language, and distributing amoiiff our visitors two 
copies of the Chinese New Testament, together with 
some tracts written in Chinese; which language ap- 
pears to be pretty generally understood in Japan. If 
inclined to set any value on ideas, which can be form- 
ed concerning the hearts of men. especial!}' of men 
so accustomed to disguise their feelings, as we are in- 
formed the Japanese are, I would say with much con- 
fidence that our dismissal was universally regretted.'-' 
Here, we have the modes of benefiting this nation 
suggested, which have been so successfully employed 
bv recent missionaries in China. One is. acting- against 
their cobweb prohibitions, where their salvation is con- 
cerned : another, freely distributing religious books 
among them. A third has been mentioned, in which 
the missionaries fully concur; and that is to go among 
them, if you can with their permission, if not] without 
it ; and to make the important experiment; whether 
our fears and their vetoes necessarily interfere with 
our duty and their eternal happiness. When a na- 



JAPAN. 



363 



tion's laws are opposed to the laws and the glory of 
the King of kings, which must be set aside ? If our 
object was the extension of an earthly kingdom, it 
might create some doubts whether we ought to disre- 
gard the regulations of an empire; but as long as those 
whom we oppose are opposed to the Sovereign of hea- 
ven and earth, — to their own happiness, and the best 
interests of the universe, we may dismiss all apprehen- 
sions, while we look simply at the command, u Go ye 
into all the world and preach the gospel to every crea- 
ture.' 5 Besides, the policy of kings in this case is as 
obnoxious to the wishes of their subjects, as it is fatal 
to their welfare. We find that at Japan, the Loo Choo 
islands and China, the people are favorable to a free 
intercourse with other nations. Let ships then be 
sent forth with such articles of traffic as may be useful 
to the heathen, accompanied with missionaries and 
physicians, who can benefit their souls and bodies, 
and who may go in and dwell among them* 



CHAPTER XIX 



CONCLUSION. 

In conclusion the writer would ask forgiveness — if 
it be a fault— for having wandered so far from the 
route of his joumeyings. His object has not been, 
simply that of a traveler, He was sent forth as a 
s 5 messenger of the churches/' to learn the condition 
of the kingdoms and islands^ which belong to the 
Savior, and which the church is commanded in the 
name of her Sovereign to occupy. Whatever may be 
the impressions produced upon the minds of the Chris- 
tian public by reading the accounts here collected — 
however difficult and discouraging the accomplish- 
ment of their duty may appear — still their obligations 
remain imperative, — the command of their Savior un- 
revoked, and the condition of the vast majority of 
their race inexpressibly wretched. The talent of a 
world's salvation has been laid up in a napkin, until 
men have forgotten that it was ever intrusted to them. 
This talent they are now called upon to exercise. 
The slumbers of ages have been broken — the dreams 
of God's people dissipated, and the overpowering con- 
viction begins to flash upon every candid mind, that 



366 



CONCLUSION* 



there are sufficient means in the possession of Chris- 
tians to convert all nations, and that probably, long 
before the close of the present century. Of course we 
speak with a reference to the self-multiplying nature 
of our agency, and especially to the exercise of that 
almighty power on which alone we depend, and which 
we believe would attend it. 

These means are diffused among all Christians, 
though in unequal measures : so that he who does no- 
thing in this work cannot be guiltless, whatever may 
be his circumstances, or sentiments. From the com- 
mand of God's word, and the history of many past 
centuries, we conclude, that more, much more, must 
be done, than has ever been attempted, or even thought 
practicable. The minds of Christians must be en- 
lightened on this subject — their hearts enlarged — their 
purses opened — their energies and influence combined. 
No longer must we sing with deceitful lips. 

:( All that I am and all I have 

Shall be forever thine ; 
Whatte'er my duty bids me give, 

My cheerful hands resign." 

No longer must we believe ourselves Christians, and 
yet disbelieve the unequivocal declaration, and express 
command, "'Ye are not your own. for ye are bought 
with a price : therefore glorify God in your body 
Aid in your spirit, which are God's," 

The reproach of eighteen centuries must be wiped 
away from the sacred office of the ministry. " That all 
seek their own. not the things which are Jesus 
Christ's." With a world before us. and the prospect 
of the greatest usefulness in its most distant, desolate 



CONCLUSION, 



36F 



corner, no man must imagine himself guiltless in any 
other place. While the claims of other countries are 
as powerful as those of England and America, and 
the command of Jesus is irrespective of places, we 
must either show that England and America are no 
better supplied than those divisions of the world -; or 
that they ought to be so ; or we must prove that we 
are released from a universal command,— that we have 
a dispensation to remain at home. We do not wish 
to imply that there is no work, of the most important 
kind, to be done at home — we believe that the " sin- 
gle eye," turn it which way you will, beholds but one 
object. The respective interests of the domestic and 
foreign fields by no means clash ; their interests are 
identical. Still there appears to be a conflict, and 
one whose din is too loud not to be distinctly heard. 
Whence then its origin, and where its seat ? May it 
not be, is it not, between the dictates of a half sancti- 
fied inclination and the demands of a half-suppressed 
conscience ? We magnify what our judgment con- 
vinces us is comparatively small — we wish to believe 
of invisible dimensions, what we must close our eyes 
not to behold. 

Let the zeal of the infatuated Jesuits shame us into 
action. Their native land and its antipodes were 
alike to them. " After my return to Europe," said one 
of their Chinese missionaries, " when my intention of 
seeking laborers for this vineyard was divulged, im- 
mediately there were so many candidates, that there 
is scarce a province of our society from which I have 
not received many letters from several fathers, not only 
offering themselves, but earnestly requesting me to 

32 



36S 



COSCLtSiOX, 



accept them as_ soldiers in this enterprise. As if the 
trouble and pains of these long and dangerous voy- 
ages, and the persecutions so certainly to be under- 
gone, were as nothing to this undertaking, In Portu- 
gal, from the two colleges of Coimbra and Ebora alone. 
1 had a list of ninety persons, so desirous to labor in 
this mission, that many of them have sent me very 
long letters, all written and signed with their own 
blood, witnessing in this manner that they had a holy 
courage, that could despise the threats of martyrdom ; 
offering cheerfully to the Lord that little blood as a 
testimony of the great desire they had to shed it for 
His sake.* 

Are there no ministers of the sanctuary, whose use-- 
fulness would be greatly increased by leaving their 
people and their country, and following in the steps 
of these blinded men. How many, alas ! are content 
with a limited sphere of labor, when kingdoms and 
empires lie in utter destitution. Energies are ex- 
hausted upon trifles, talents are buried, and men who 
might be exceedingly useful are voluntarily incarce^ 
rated. Those who are commanded "to proclaim liberty 
to the captives, and the opening of the prison to them 
that are bound," must have their message first pro- 
claimed to themselves. The missionary work de- 
mands the most exalted talent, and extensive learn- 
ing, and consequently the arguments employed for re- 
maining at home, are the very ones which render 
more imperative the duty of going abroad. It is true 
the work can accommodate itself to every order of 



* Samedo's History of China, quoted in the Chinese Repository, 
vol, L, page 487, 



CONCLUSION. 



369 



talent and acquirement and so can the highest sta- 
tions in Christian lands ; but the result in both cases 
will be alike. The duty of acquiring languages, 
translating, writing, instructing on all subjects, an- 
swering all questions, reasoning, devising facilities, 
managing events, in many cases practicing medicine, 
and preaching to different classes, often in different 
languages, will soon convince those who make the 
trial, that none can be too well qualified for labors 
among the heathen. We speak not to discourage any, 
but to correct the opinions of some. None need de- 
spair of usefulness— all who feel constrained by the 
love of Christ should enlist in this service ; but the 
last objection which ought to be conceived, is that 
the minds of any are so vigorous and richly furnished, 
that the most difficult project of earth, opposed by all 
the forces of hell, is not sufficient to employ their 
powers. 

And why is it that so few of our theological stu- 
dents engage in foreign missions ? How is it that such 
numbers never prayerfully agitate the question of duty 
on this subject — never imagine that they might possi- 
bly be more useful where millions have no teacher, 
than where hundreds are ready to occupy the places 
at which they usually aim. With all their argu- 
ments on the advantages of concentrated effort, to 
which we subscribe; and with all the growing de- 
mands of our own country, the supply of which will 
no doubt hasten the universal triumph of the Gospel, 
— do they not know, is it not the opinion of all in 
whose judgment they have the greatest confidence, 
that those who go abroad, increase, and not diminish 



3T0 



CONCLUSION, 



the effective energy at home ? The spirit and the 
influence of the missionary are among the most pow- 
erful means of awakening the churches, and directing 
the attention of the young to her highest offices, 
Even the infant's mind is arrested by missionary ef- 
forts, and thus pre-occupied by sentiments, which in 
many cases control its future life. We look with pe- 
culiar interest to the young men in the theological 
seminaries. We hear of numbers who enter these 
schools, under the solemn conviction, that it is their 
duty to devote their lives to the heathen. Their 
friends, their fellow students, and often the churches 
regard them as virtually set apart to the work. They 
are commended for their zeal — their example is em- 
ployed in stimulating others to high and self-denying 
efforts ; but alas ! before they close their preparatory 
studies — when the hour of decision for action has 
come, the hearts which glowed with so much ardor 
have sunk into apathy — the cries of the perishing are 
no longer heard, and the s.ubject of missions is dis- 
missed, as though their obligations were canceled— 
the world Christianized. And whence this leaving 
of their first love ? What influence exists in the semi- 
naries, which proves so. fatal to the hopes of God's 
people and the happiness of his creatures ! 

One cause has been assigned, which we shudder to 
contemplate. It is said that in some seminaries, those 
who retain their zeal in the cause of missions, are 
classed by their aspiring fellows among the good men. 
in other words, men of an inferior order of intellect ; 
and to escape the association of ordinary powers, even 
with elevated piety^ many are tempted to withdraw 



CONCLUSION. 



371 



themselves from their less distinguished brethren. 
God grant for his own honor, and the welfare of the 
churches, that this sentiment, which breathes so much 
of the spirit of its inspirer, may alarm every mind 
which it enters. With whomsoever this sentiment 
exists, we cannot but fear that such servants are above 
their master. They must either believe that the very 
command under which they themselves profess to be 
preparing for the ministry is not true; or that Christ 
has devolved the most difficult and important concerns 
of his kingdom upon the feeblest instruments ; or else 
they ought to perceive that they are indisposed to 
comply with duty, solely because it is arduous and 
self-denying. 

The fact we have stated in regard to the change of 
mind, rather of feeling in students, exists, we fear, in 
all theological schools ; the reason assigned, we hope 
is limited to a very few. What other cause then 
may produce this paralyzing effect ? Is there nothing 
to be attributed to the influence of professors ? We 
have not heard that any are opposed to foreign mis- 
sions. We know that the talents and influence of 
many are consecrated to this cause. Still is it not 
evident, that either the demands of our own country 
(we speak not of our Western missionary field,) must 
be exhibited in seminaries, as superior to those of hea- 
then nations, or else there must be a great declension 
in the piety of those students who change their pur- 
pose, without the least change of judgment? With 
the highest opinion of the most extensive and varied 
attainments when sanctified, still we fully believe that 
the salvation of the world depends infinitely more 



372 



C0XCLrSI03T, 



upon the right principles of the heart, than upon any 
training and furnishing of intellect, in which our ven- 
erable professors may assist. The difference is this ; 
piety — we must not confound it with a morbid, spuri- 
ous feeling of that name — piety will stimulate to all 
efforts, including the culture of the mind ; whereas 
intellect of any character engaged in the ministry, and 
not directed by its proper spirit., has generally proved 
of no permanent advantage to mankind. We sym- 
pathize with those who have been called to the re- 
sponsible duty of preparing "the leaders of God's peo- 
ple." for their high stations j and earnestly pray, as 
the churches should pray, that ail who have such an 
important direction in the spiritual concerns of the 
world, may be under the especial guidance of the 
Holy Spirit. 

One request we would make of each student be- 
fore leaving this subject — that he would set apart at 
least one entire day in each year of his course, to as- 
certain by prayer and fasting, whether it is his duty 
to remain in the bosom of the church, or to extend her 
rich blessings to those who cannot otherwise enjoy 
them, and who must perish without them. Place 
yourself before the throne of the Judge — gather around 
3'ou, that part of the great assembly whom you might 
influence through your direct efforts, or an intermedi- 
ate agency, and impressed with all the associations of 
that day. let the question of your duty be determined— 
and so determined that you shall not be confounded, 
when the judgment scene is present. Multitudes ap- 
pear to take it for granted that they must remain at 
home, without examining the subject. Whatever may 



CONCLUSION 



313 



be their specific object in entering the ministry, we 
beg them to consider, whether it may not be better 
gained by the influence they may exert abroad, and 
from abroad, than by remaining in their native country. 

But the work of evangelizing the world ■ demands 
more than the labors of the ordained missionary. 
There must be teachers, physicians, merchants, in 
places mechanics — Christian communities who can 
employ all the various means by which the heathen 
may be influenced, and at the same time exhibit to 
them an example of the blessedness, in which they 
labor to have them participate. The advantage of 
sending colonies, and not merely missionaries, is obvi- 
ous to all who have been abroad. The work would 
advance in proportion to the variety of plans adopted, 
and the number of instruments employed. Commerce 
and medicine harmonize admirably with schools, the 
press, distribution, and preaching. And if native agen- 
cy is to be efficiently engaged in the missionary work,, 
it can never be prepared with the same facility and 
perfection, as in colonies of this description. Besides, 
labor and expense would be greatly economized. 
Those numerous domestic duties, which consume so 
much of the time of single missionaries, or families, 
might be devolved upon a few ; while the majority 
of both sexes would be at liberty to labor exclusively 
for the heathen. 

Of the hundreds of physicians who take their di- 
plomas every year, are there none with the vows of 
God upon them ? None who will unite in a work 
so glorious, and where their services are so greatly 
needed. In many stations they can accomplish more 



374 



CONCLUSION. 



than ordained missionaries. They have the best pass- 
port to the dwellings, and hearts of the heathen — they 
possess a magnet, whose attraction gathers crowds, 
and reaches to places where we can never penetrate. 
While they can accomplish the most important part 
of a missionary's duties, they can do it under much 
greater advantages than those who have- not their 
knowledge. Patients feel themselves under obliga- 
tions, and are disposed to comply with any methods 
which may be devised for their spiritual benefit. 
Congregations have been thus formed, books widely 
distributed, instrumentality increased, and souls saved: 
besides, the perishing have been rescued from death, 
the suffering relieved, and the hearts of those who 
would have been widowed and fatherless, made to sing 
for joy. 

Every argument which can be addressed to others, 
applies to physicians ; while they have but few of the 
reasons for refusing, which ministers and students 
generally offer. They do not usually remain at home 
from a sense of duty: they find it exceedingly diffi- 
cult to obtain situations and patronage. Their ser- 
vices may be generally dispensed with, or performed 
by others who would gladly become their substitutes. 
What then should prevent numbers from discharging 
this important and commanding duty ? How can 
they deliver their skirts from the blood of souls, if 
they refuse ? If their education have been extensive, 
— if they possess much skill and experience, the more 
are they needed, where so much may depend upon 
their success. The writer had an application for 
medical aid from the second king of Siam. He was 



CONCLUSION. 



375 



absent at the time, and did not return until after the 
death of the king. How readily might a simple effort 
in such instances lead to the most desirable results. 

Merchants also are capable of exerting the most salu- 
tary influence among Pagan nations. They, too, like 
physicians, usually draw multitudes around them, 
who might be instructed both orally, and by books. 
Besides this, they would stimulate to labor, by open- 
ing a current for its proceeds. They would improve 
the habits of the natives by introducing the useful 
arts, and meliorating customs of civilized life. They 
would commend their religion by exemplifying its prin- 
ciples in all their ordinary pursuits. The connexions 
which they might establish, and the obligations which 
they could impose, might be employed for the spiritu- 
al welfare of multitudes. Are there none who possess 
the means of trade, disposed to embark their capital 
in such an interest ? Are there none whose engage- 
ments are not necessary to themselves, nor sufficiently 
available to the great objects of benevolence to prevent 
them from leaving their country ? The churches can 
furnish numbers unencumbered with domestic cares ; 
or if married, without families. What should prevent 
such from engaging in this or other useful employ- 
ments, when they have nothing to keep them at home, 
and many of them need not depend upon the Christian 
public for support ? When will the days of primitive 
Christianity return, when every Christian shall con- 
sider his possessions the church's property, and him- 
self a servant of all ! 

The co-operation and influence of ladies are also 
greatly needed in evangelizing the heathen. In many 
countries they alone have access to their own sex, 



876 



CONCLUSION. 



The only one who ever resided at Siam was admitted 
within the palace walls, and among the numerous 
wires of the princes, and chief men of the country, 
Infant schools and female schools are their department, 
and none can succeed as well as they in obtaining 
scholars, and instructing and advising mothers. La- 
dies ought to accompany every mission family. The 
appeal to them is peculiarly affecting. It is the lan- 
guage of the oppressed and miserable — the united 
voice of more than one half of their sex. The simple 
control of mothers over children is enough to show, 
how much the happiness and moral habits of a nation 
depend upon the elevation of females. Let this sub- 
ject then enter into the prayers and efforts of Chris- 
tian ladies, and such measures be devised and such 
teachers sent forth, as shall change the condition of 
the sex, and place them in the sphere, which in mercy 
to the world as well as themselves, they were design- 
eel ro occupy. 

There is still another class in society, who if we 
can judge from external circumstances of providence, 
are laid under peculiar obligations to devote them- 
selves to this work. There are men of property who 
are engaged in no business, and have no peculiar ob- 
stacles to such an undertaking, whose presence, coun- 
sels, prayers and funds would greatly redound to their 
Savior's glory in heathen lands. What hinders such 
from employing themselves, and their important talent^ 
in benefiting a world J Has their wealth wholly or 
even partially released them from the obligation of 
glorifying God to the utmost of their ability 1 Has a 
man born to a fortune, or successful in acquiring one, 
anv greater liberty to consult his own pleasure in the 



coMclusiok. 



377 



disposal of himself and his property, than another 1 
" What has he that he has not received/' and what 
has he received which he is not bound " to minister 
according to the ability which God has given him 3 
that God in all things may be glorified through Jesus 
Christ.' 7 

But without specifying other classes in society, we 
would inquire of all, whom God has sanctified to him- 
self; have you prayerfully contemplated the obligations 
under which you lie, to advance the great design 3 
which brought the Savior from His throne ; and foi? 
which He now reigns ? If you have lived in neglect 
of this duty before^ ascend now some eminence which 
commands the world — -gaze upon the scene of desola- 
tion and misery, which spreads on every side— hear 
the appeals for help, from a thousand millions of souls, 
multiplying and perishing every hour ; and then with 
the first prayer of Paul upon your lips, build an altar 
to Jehovah Sabaoth, and offer upon it "yourselves a 
living sacrifice, holy, acceptable unto God, which is 
your reasonable service." With such a spirit and 
such an offering, the path of your duty will be made 
plain. 

To those who feel themselves under obligations to 
remain at home, who have the evidence of an enlight- 
ened conscience, and a directing Providence in favor 
of their present lot, we must look for the most valuable 
services in the kingdom of Christ. They must elevate 
the standard of piety by example and influence, — they 
must furnish the world with suitable men, and neces- 
sary means, — and above all, they must pray "for all 
men" " always, with all prayer, and supplication in the 
spirit." 



srs 



CONCLUSION* 



Ye mothers, did you realize your solemn vows, and 
unalienable obligations to Christ, when you offered your 
children to Him at the baptismal font? He accepted His 
own and returned them, not as yours, but to be nour- 
ished, and educated for His service. Yours is a promi- 
nent part m the conversion of the world. The army 
which the King* of kings and Lord of lords is to lead 
on through successive victory to the final conquest of 
the nations, He looks to you to replenish. O what mis- 
ery must be endured, what guilt incurred, if faithless 
to your charge. And O, what happiness diffused in 
the kingdom of Christ — through the heaven of heav- 
ens. — if your vows are paid, your work performed ! 

And ye teachers of the young in infant schools. Sab- 
bath schools, and all the various institutions of the land, 
we plead with you, in behalf of the children committed 
to your care, and the millions upon whom they are to 
exert a saving or destructive influence. Make their 
salvation your chief concern, and leave no means un- 
tried for its attainment. In the name of the Savior, 
we ask the co-operation of all God's people in hasten- 
ing His universal reign. Yv'e would plead with the 
wealthy — the learned — the eloquent — the influential — 
all who can act — all who can pray. When every 
Christian lives for the conversion of the world, he 
shall discharge his duty— and the world shall soon be 
saved. O that He, with whom is the promise and the 
power, — without whom agents cannot be qualified, nor 
agency successful, — would soon raise up such men, 
and suggest such measures, as His Spirit may employ 
in subduing the world to Himself! 



